https://www.noisebridge.net/api.php?action=feedcontributions&user=Scotty&feedformat=atomNoisebridge - User contributions [en]2024-03-29T01:56:29ZUser contributionsMediaWiki 1.39.4https://www.noisebridge.net/index.php?title=Press_Kit&diff=64631Press Kit2018-01-28T11:38:33Z<p>Scotty: </p>
<hr />
<div>Noisebridge has been a staple of the San Francisco hacker and technology scene for 10 years. Due to a series of anonymous complaints to the city planning and building inspection departments at the city (we believe with the intent of shutting down Noisebridge), '''our landlord has decided not to renew our lease''', which ends August 2018.<br />
<br />
Since Noisebridge first moved into 2169 Mission St., rents have risen considerably in San Francisco. Leases for comparable spaces are anywhere from '''300-500%''' more than Noisebridge is currently paying, which well exceed Noisebridge's current funding sources.<br />
<br />
We don't know where Noisebridge will end up, but '''our community is committed to providing a home for hacking and making in San Francisco.''' We believe that San Francisco needs a hackerspace that is open to as many people as possible as often as possible. We also strongly believe that the residents and guests of our town deserve a space to pursue their hopes, interests, and ambitions at their own pace in a safe space where lack of funds is no barrier to entry. This is what Noisebridge provides, and has provided for nearly a decade.<br />
<br />
To continue this mission, '''Noisebridge absolutely needs to raise money''' at a much higher level then it has in the past. We have put a [[FundraisingCall|call for fundraising]], asking for community members and friends of Noisebridge to become monthly donors.<br />
<br />
== Press Contacts ==<br />
<br />
'''Please reach out to us''' - we'd be happy to answer any questions you have, or setup a time for a phone call or in person interview, or give you a tour of Noisebridge. You're also welcome to come to any of our events.<br />
<br />
Official press contact: '''press@noisebridge.net''' (TODO - is this still active?)<br />
<br />
You can also contact specific Noisebridge community members via their contact info in their [[#Bios|bios]] below.<br />
<br />
Please note: Feel free to take photos of Noisebridge, but some of our community members are very privacy concious, so please ask people for permission before photographing them, even if they're in the background of a shot. Usually most people will give permission.<br />
<br />
== Background on Noisebridge ==<br />
<br />
Noisebridge is a [http://hackerspaces.org/ hackerspace] for technical-creative projects, [[Do-ocracy|doocratically]] run by everyone. We are [[Incorporation|a non-profit educational institution]] intended for public benefit. We have a 5,200 square-foot space located in the heart of San Francisco containing an electronics lab, wood shop, machine/metalworking shop, sewing/crafting supplies, two classrooms, conference area, and library.<br />
<br />
We provide infrastructure and collaboration opportunities for anyone interested in programming, hardware, crafts, science, robotics, art, and technology. We teach, we learn, we share. With no leaders, we have one rule: "Be excellent to each other".<br />
<br />
Noisebridge was one of the first hackerspaces in the US, along with Hacktory, Hack DC, and NYC Resistor, which all started in 2007, inspired by hackerspaces in Europe, like the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metalab Metalab] in Vienna and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/C-base c-base] in Berlin.<br />
<br />
Noisebridge is as open as possible. Typical "open hours" are from 11:00am-10:00pm, however this varies greatly depending on scheduled events and who is using the space on any given day. New visitors are welcome any time (all ages, all skill levels), as long as someone is in the space and able to answer the door.<br />
<br />
== Bios ==<br />
<br />
Bios on key people to interview about the space (with 1 paragraph of their story, headshot-type photo, and contact details)<br />
<br />
TODO<br />
<br />
* Kyle<br />
* Ruth<br />
* Lizzie<br />
* Victoria<br />
* Darryl<br />
* Jarrod<br />
* Mitch<br />
* J<br />
* Kevin<br />
* Trent<br />
* John Shutt<br />
<br />
== Projects ==<br />
<br />
- 5 Minutes of Fame (video, live and archived streaming) Noisebridge's monthly series of lightning talks on widely diverse subjects<br />
- Flaschen Taschen<br />
- Danny's book scanner<br />
- Brain Machine (details) creates hallucinations and aids meditation by flashing lights and sound with special goggles<br />
<br />
== Photos ==<br />
<br />
== Videos ==<br />
<br />
== FAQ ==<br />
<br />
'''Q: What is a hackerspace?'''<br />
<br />
A: Hackerspaces are community-operated physical places, where people share their interest in tinkering with technology, meet and work on their projects, and learn from each other. There are more than 2000 hackerspaces all over the world. (from http://hackerspaces.org)<br />
<br />
'''Q: What is a hacker?'''<br />
<br />
A: TODO<br />
<br />
'''Q: Where does the name Noisebridge come from?'''<br />
<br />
A: A "noise bridge" is a piece of electronic test equipment that injects noise into a system to see how it responds, so you can fix or improve it. Such a device is often used in RF electronics.<br />
<br />
'''Q: What can people do at Noisebridge?'''<br />
<br />
A: Meet techie, arty, and crafty folks, take a class, teach a class, use the power tools and electronic labs, build something out of stuff on the hack shelves, use our library, surf the web, and so on. <br />
<br />
'''Q: What does it mean that Noisebridge is doocratically run?'''<br />
<br />
A: Doing excellent stuff at Noisebridge does not require permission or an official decision.<br />
<br />
Do-ocracy - If you want something done, do it, but remember to be excellent to each other when doing so.<br />
<br />
Typically when someone wants to do or change something big at Noisebridge, they bring it up at a meeting and it goes through our Consensus Process. If it's a smaller, more mundane thing, there's Do-ocracy. Do-ocracy tends to work just as long as our only rule is followed, to be excellent to each other. If someone nicely asks you to change something back, be nice back and just change it back.<br />
<br />
'''Q: Who is in charge of Noisebridge?'''<br />
<br />
A: No one is. No wait, we all are! Noisebridge is anarchically run, which means no one is in charge. We do have elected board members, but they strictly serve to statisfy the state's requirements for nonprofits. We make official Noisebridge decisions by consensus, which means the willing consent of all of our members. Decisions are typically made at our weekly meetings. You can read more about our [[Consensus_Process]].<br />
<br />
'''Q: How is Noisebridge currently funded?'''<br />
<br />
A: We self-finance entirely through one-time and recurring donations from members and non-members alike, as well as beverage sales and parties. Membership fees are $80 per member/month with a $40 "starving hacker" rate. No one needs to be a member to make full use of Noisebridge though!<br />
<br />
'''Q: What sort of events does Noisebridge host?'''<br />
<br />
A: TODO</div>Scottyhttps://www.noisebridge.net/index.php?title=Press_Kit&diff=64630Press Kit2018-01-28T11:37:03Z<p>Scotty: Complete overhaul for nbsp - still needs to be filled in in a few areas.</p>
<hr />
<div>Noisebridge has been a staple of the San Francisco hacker and technology scene for 10 years. Due to a series of anonymous complaints to the city planning and building inspection departments at the city (we believe with the intent of shutting down Noisebridge), '''our landlord has decided not to renew our lease''', which ends August 2018.<br />
<br />
Since Noisebridge first moved into 2169 Mission St., rents have risen considerably in San Francisco. Leases for comparable spaces are anywhere from '''300-500%''' more than Noisebridge is currently paying, which well exceed Noisebridge's current funding sources.<br />
<br />
We don't know where Noisebridge will end up, but '''our community is committed to providing a home for hacking and making in San Francisco.''' We believe that San Francisco needs a hackerspace that is open to as many people as possible as often as possible. We also strongly believe that the residents and guests of our town deserve a space to pursue their hopes, interests, and ambitions at their own pace in a safe space where lack of funds is no barrier to entry. This is what Noisebridge provides, and has provided for nearly a decade.<br />
<br />
To continue this mission, '''Noisebridge absolutely needs to raise money''' at a much higher level then it has in the past. We have put a [[FundraisingCall|call for fundraising]], asking for community members and friends of Noisebridge to become monthly donors.<br />
<br />
== Press Contacts ==<br />
<br />
'''Please reach out to us''' - we'd be happy to answer any questions you have, or setup a time for a phone call or in person interview, or give you a tour of Noisebridge. You're also welcome to come to any of our events.<br />
<br />
Official press contact: '''press@noisebridge.net''' (TODO - is this still active?)<br />
<br />
You can also contact specific Noisebridge community members via their contact info in their [[#Bios|bios]] below.<br />
<br />
Please note: Feel free to take photos of Noisebridge, but some of our community members are very privacy concious, so please ask people for permission before photographing them, even if they're in the background of a shot. Usually most people will give permission.<br />
<br />
== Background on Noisebridge ==<br />
<br />
Noisebridge is a [http://hackerspaces.org/ hackerspace] for technical-creative projects, [[Do-ocracy|doocratically]] run by everyone. We are [[Incorporation|a non-profit educational institution]] intended for public benefit. We have a 5,200 square-foot space located in the heart of San Francisco containing an electronics lab, wood shop, machine/metalworking shop, sewing/crafting supplies, two classrooms, conference area, and library.<br />
<br />
We provide infrastructure and collaboration opportunities for anyone interested in programming, hardware, crafts, science, robotics, art, and technology. We teach, we learn, we share. With no leaders, we have one rule: "Be excellent to each other".<br />
<br />
Noisebridge was one of the first hackerspaces in the US, along with Hacktory, Hack DC, and NYC Resistor, which all started in 2007, inspired by hackerspaces in Europe, like the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metalab Metalab] in Vienna and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/C-base c-base] in Berlin.<br />
<br />
Noisebridge is as open as possible. Typical "open hours" are from 11:00am-10:00pm, however this varies greatly depending on scheduled events and who is using the space on any given day. New visitors are welcome any time (all ages, all skill levels), as long as someone is in the space and able to answer the door.<br />
<br />
== Bios ==<br />
<br />
Bios on key people to interview about the space (with 1 paragraph of their story, photo, and contact details)<br />
<br />
TODO<br />
<br />
* Kyle<br />
* Ruth<br />
* Lizzie<br />
* Victoria<br />
* Darryl<br />
* Jarrod<br />
* Mitch<br />
* J<br />
* Kevin<br />
* Trent<br />
* John Shutt<br />
<br />
== Projects ==<br />
<br />
- 5 Minutes of Fame (video, live and archived streaming) Noisebridge's monthly series of lightning talks on widely diverse subjects<br />
- Flaschen Taschen<br />
- Danny's book scanner<br />
- Brain Machine (details) creates hallucinations and aids meditation by flashing lights and sound with special goggles<br />
<br />
== Photos ==<br />
<br />
== Videos ==<br />
<br />
== FAQ ==<br />
<br />
'''Q: What is a hackerspace?'''<br />
<br />
A: Hackerspaces are community-operated physical places, where people share their interest in tinkering with technology, meet and work on their projects, and learn from each other. There are more than 2000 hackerspaces all over the world. (from http://hackerspaces.org)<br />
<br />
'''Q: What is a hacker?'''<br />
<br />
A: TODO<br />
<br />
'''Q: Where does the name Noisebridge come from?'''<br />
<br />
A: A "noise bridge" is a piece of electronic test equipment that injects noise into a system to see how it responds, so you can fix or improve it. Such a device is often used in RF electronics.<br />
<br />
'''Q: What can people do at Noisebridge?'''<br />
<br />
A: Meet techie, arty, and crafty folks, take a class, teach a class, use the power tools and electronic labs, build something out of stuff on the hack shelves, use our library, surf the web, and so on. <br />
<br />
'''Q: What does it mean that Noisebridge is doocratically run?'''<br />
<br />
A: Doing excellent stuff at Noisebridge does not require permission or an official decision.<br />
<br />
Do-ocracy - If you want something done, do it, but remember to be excellent to each other when doing so.<br />
<br />
Typically when someone wants to do or change something big at Noisebridge, they bring it up at a meeting and it goes through our Consensus Process. If it's a smaller, more mundane thing, there's Do-ocracy. Do-ocracy tends to work just as long as our only rule is followed, to be excellent to each other. If someone nicely asks you to change something back, be nice back and just change it back.<br />
<br />
'''Q: Who is in charge of Noisebridge?'''<br />
<br />
A: No one is. No wait, we all are! Noisebridge is anarchically run, which means no one is in charge. We do have elected board members, but they strictly serve to statisfy the state's requirements for nonprofits. We make official Noisebridge decisions by consensus, which means the willing consent of all of our members. Decisions are typically made at our weekly meetings. You can read more about our [[Consensus_Process]].<br />
<br />
'''Q: How is Noisebridge currently funded?'''<br />
<br />
A: We self-finance entirely through one-time and recurring donations from members and non-members alike, as well as beverage sales and parties. Membership fees are $80 per member/month with a $40 "starving hacker" rate. No one needs to be a member to make full use of Noisebridge though!<br />
<br />
'''Q: What sort of events does Noisebridge host?'''<br />
<br />
A: TODO</div>Scottyhttps://www.noisebridge.net/index.php?title=Meeting_Notes_2017_11_28&diff=62081Meeting Notes 2017 11 282017-11-29T05:15:44Z<p>Scotty: /* Introductions */ Formatting</p>
<hr />
<div>2017-11-28<br />
<br />
== Introductions ==<br />
<br />
Name (pronouns)<br />
* Darry/Augur (they/them) - Teaches Haskell class, trains people on the laser cutter. Interested in functional programming.<br />
* Cole (he/him) - Does robots. Errr.. builds robots.<br />
* Elias (he/him) - Likes Haskell.<br />
* Lujan (he / any) - Does robots for a living.<br />
* Alex (any) - Interested in generally improving his environment, "Making the world a better place", math, FP, automation, getting along with people<br />
* Sloan (she/her) - Photographer, student at SFAI, doing a project on NB <br />
* David - Former techshoper, has been meeting to stop by for a while, met NBers at makerfaire a few years ago, mostly interested in laser cutters for packing for jewelry <br />
* Ryan (he/him, El Jefe) - works on lots of things<br />
* Alex / @lxpk - teaches gamedev on tuesdays, we used to do ableton music, and will hopefully be starting up a class again<br />
<br />
== Announcements ==<br />
<br />
Augur - No Haskell class this wednesday since its a 5th wednesday, but we can chat anyway!<br />
<br />
Augur - We do not have copper wire, someone is trolling us, please stop asking about copper wire<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Philanthropists ==<br />
<br />
Up for Philanthropy: Alex Alekseyenko<br />
<br />
Alekseyenko: Get a 24 hour access token to noisebridge, donate ~$80 a month, expected to know how NB works, what NB is about, should be able to handle situations relating to escorting people out, know how to give them a tour and explain NB, need to know how to close up, you have NO special rights, access can be taken away by any member at a moments notice<br />
<br />
Alex is now a Philanthropist!!<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Members ==<br />
<br />
Augur 3 - Membership is when your brain has been infested with nanoviruses and you hang out in the grove and... shitshitshit--secret plan. As a member you don't have rights so much as responsibilities. You want to contribute to Noisebridge as much as you can and see to the survival of Noisebridge as well as its culture. Noisebridge makes decisions by consensus of its members (or, more accurately, by non-blocking by its members), not majority rule. This means that blocking is a very serious thing. You block an item because you feel so strongly about the issue that, if it were to go through, you would be inclined to leave. It also takes a couple of weeks and the details are on the wiki. For this reason, most things are done through do-ocracy, which is kind of the opposite of bureaucracy. If you believe that what you're about to do is excellent and that others won't object, you might just want to do it and talk to Noisebridge about it.Also, members can grant limited (30-day, 11am-10pm access to others). <br />
<br />
Merlin gets 9 checkmarks.<br />
<br />
Alex Peake - Proposes that incrementing Merlin's checkmarks be added to standard Noisebridge unmeeting procedure.<br />
<br />
Augur - recites a beautiful piece of writing detailing his experience with Noisebridge and professing his undying love for this unstitution. Steve Young and Trent sponsored Darryl.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Consensus Items ==<br />
<br />
Patrick brings forth a consensus item remotely and asynchronously:<br />
<br />
Copy of previous text:<br />
<br />
Patrick: I propose NB establishes two separate funds for possible moving.<br />
<br />
That Noisebridge establish two new funds.<br />
<br />
CONSENSUS ITEM TEXT<br />
<br />
1. A holding fee fund of $5,000 which will be used to "hold" properties forlease or sale that Noisebridge might consider in the future. These funds would allow us time to engage in a full capital C consensus process relating to the ultimate lease or purchase decision about our new space.<br />
<br />
2. A moving fund. This fund will collect money specifically for the costs associated in moving, renting, or purchasing a new space for Noisebridge. Should an agreement be reached with the current landlords at 2169 this money would be directed either to rent or to building improvements as required. <br />
<br />
END CONSENSUS ITEM TEXT<br />
<br />
Patrick 1. alloc 5k from general fund into a holding fee fund, b/c in the process of doing the final consensus process, we might need to put some money down to prevent the location from going to some other party. Unlikely that it'll be exhausted, but is prudent.<br />
<br />
Lizzie: Can we have a process for when this will be spent?<br />
Patrick: Probably just little c consensus?<br />
Lizzie/Trent: Can we spell that out?<br />
Patrick: It seems unlikely that we'll just arbitrarily spend it<br />
Trent: Good opportunity to record the way of doing things that is historically verbal<br />
Lizzie: Good to head off an argument over how many spaces we spend this on, etc.<br />
Scotty: Whats the range usually?<br />
Trent: Victoria said she used 1k for a personal apt, at least<br />
<br />
2. Moving fund. Looking at many options for financing leasing or buying. There'll be lots of fees, costs, to do this. This fund would be where we collect money donated specifically for the purposes of moving, etc. incl. legal fees to lawyers to figure out our current situation. This fund will start empty or w/ nominal amt for current legal rep. Will add a project to donate.noisebridge.net. If the fund is not expended and we get a lease, we can convert to rent money or general fund.<br />
<br />
Scotty: Maybe we shouldn't call it a moving fund b/c its for more than just moving costs, but also possibly buying a building, legal fees, etc.<br />
<br />
Trent: Is the purpose of this being separate b/c its going to be quite large ultimately?<br />
Patrick: Yes<br />
Trent: We should spell this out in the proposal text, that this is the purpose of it, and why it's separate.<br />
Trent: Also will this be specifically earmarked for moving??<br />
Patrick: Yes<br />
<br />
Trent is apathetic.<br />
<br />
</consensus item><br />
<br />
(Darryl explains consensus and Consensus.)<br />
<br />
Alex - Most relevant discussion will take place in #new-space on Slack and on Saturday meetings.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Consensus reached w/ Alex and Steve present, no blocks.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Discussions ==<br />
<br />
Roy and Ryan discuss making more 3d printers work</div>Scottyhttps://www.noisebridge.net/index.php?title=Meeting_Notes_Template&diff=61719Meeting Notes Template2017-11-15T05:37:49Z<p>Scotty: Added preferred pronoun to the introductions section</p>
<hr />
<div>----------->8----------<br />
DELETE EVERYTHING BELOW THIS LINE WHEN YOU POST THE MEETING MINUTES KTHX!!!<br />
<br />
= Instructions =<br />
<br />
Congratulations and/or condolences! You're reading this because you're participating in a meeting of Noisebridge!<br />
<br />
Meetings should be limited to an hour when possible. Shorter is fine, but avoid rushing.<br />
<br />
You should read this instructional section thoroughly, and treat them as a guideline for how to host a meeting of Noisebridge. There are three ingredients to an [[Excellent]] meeting: A number of note takers, some facilitators, and participants.<br />
<br />
Meetings are just one of the tools used at Noisebridge to create net forward progress on whatever it is we're all trying to do. Meetings aren't the only way to make decisions or have discussions, and in fact its usually a much better idea to talk about things outside the meeting before dragging the entire community kicking and screaming into it.<br />
<br />
== Note Takers ==<br />
# Confirm last meeting was saved<br />
## Check [http://www.noisebridge.net/Last_meeting Last meeting] page to confirm the Riseup pad notes were saved there at end of last meeting. <br />
## Does the text date match the page date? Great! <br />
## If not and the [http://pad.riseup.net/p/nbmeeting Riseup pad] looks like last week, copy the unsaved notes into [http://www.noisebridge.net/Last_meeting Last meeting]. If you need to clear up confusion, check the [https://noisebridge.net/wiki/Category:Meeting_Notes meeting notes archive] to make sure.<br />
# Take new notes<br />
## Open the shared text editor pad [https://noisebridge.sandcats.io/shared/mgsnX21j0ujAeg9Tj4nsBPWVnOMW1vCAOI8vt4iR7Rk on our sandstorm instance].<br />
## Project the notes in real time for all to see and announce the URL to collaboratively take notes on the major points of the meeting.<br />
## Copy paste the [https://noisebridge.net/index.php?title=Meeting_Notes_Template&action=edit Meeting Notes Template]] markup into the Riseup pad.<br />
## Begin lines with * or separate lines with blank space because [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Help:Formatting Mediawiki syntax] ignores single carriage returns.<br />
# Save and share the notes at the end of the meeting (instructions at the bottom).<br />
<br />
== Facilitators ==<br />
<br />
There are generally two kinds of facilitator roles at a Noisebridge meeting:<br />
<br />
* Stack taker - Useful when a lot of folks want to hop on the discussion stack. This gives everyone a turn to have their feelings heard. Usually only works when there is exactly one stack taker.<br />
* Moderators - Keeps the meeting moving and prevents everyone from wasting too much time on one subject. Anyone is free to pick up moderation and move the meeting along.<br />
<br />
In general, moderators should:<br />
* Understand the structure of Noisebridge [[consensus|decision-making]]<br />
* Make sure everyone gets a chance to speak.<br />
* Speak only minimally yourself.<br />
* Keep the meeting moving, and avoid getting bogged down.<br />
* Identify discussion items, arrange times limits for talking about each item.<br />
* Identify and summarize consensus, suggest things that need to be done.<br />
* '''Get the [[membership binder]] and ensure that it is returned safely.'''<br />
<br />
== Participants ==<br />
<br />
Everyone at a Noisebridge meeting who has consented to participating in one is a participant!<br />
<br />
* Say your name before you talk.<br />
* Remain on-topic, and speak as concisely as possible.<br />
* Assist the note-taker with any links or corrections that are needed.<br />
* Remain respectful of other participants, their time, and the consensus and moderation process.<br />
<br />
<br />
DELETE EVERYTHING ABOVE THIS LINE WHEN YOU POST THE MEETING MINUTES KTHX!!!<br />
----------->8----------<br />
<br />
These are the notes from the [https://www.noisebridge.net/wiki/Category:Meeting_Notes The XXXth Meeting of Noisebridge]. Date: FIXME THE DATE HERE Note-taker: FIXME YOUR NAME HERE; Moderators: FIXME THEIR NAME HERE.<br />
* '''One or two bullet points of high-level meeting summary.'''<br />
<br />
== Meeting Summary ==<br />
FIXME FILL OUT AT END OF MEETING AND SEND TO MAILING LIST<br />
TLDR what happened at the meeting:<br />
* Announcements:<br />
* Finances:<br />
* New members:<br />
* New philanthropists:<br />
* Consensus Items: <br />
* Discussion Items:<br />
<br />
= Introductions =<br />
<br />
* '''Invite a knowledgeable volunteer to explain''' [[Noisebridge_Vision|what Noisebridge is about]]:<br />
<blockquote>Noisebridge is a 501c3 nonprofit that provides a space for creation, collaboration, and learning about technology and creative projects. Noisebridge provides space, power tools, and infrastructure to help the public learn new skills and create cool things. Noisebridge continues to exist through and depends entirely on membership fees and donations. Our code of conduct is 'Be excellent to each other'."</blockquote><br />
* Introduce any experimental or unusual moderation techniques that may be using during the meeting like: direct responses, limited speaking time, orderless stack, &c.<br />
* Round of introductions (remember, announcements come later):<br />
** What's your name?<br />
** '''What's your preferred pronoun?'''<br />
** What do you do?<br />
** What do you maintain at Noisebridge?<br />
** if you are new: how did you hear about Noisebridge?<br />
<br />
= Short announcements and events =<br />
* Cool new projects? Something you'd like people to know? Say now, but keep it short! One or two sentences please!<br />
* Any happenings at the space of which members should be made aware.<br />
* Don't hog everyone's time since we all just want to hack!<br />
<br />
= Safe Space =<br />
<br />
'''Note:''' This section is experimental. We discussed it at [[Meeting_Notes_2016_06_28]]. We're going to try it for the next meeting, and see how it goes, and then discuss in the discussion section how it went, and how we'd like to tweak it.<br />
<br />
Noisebridge is a safe space. '''Invite a volunteer to describe''' what that means.<br />
<br />
Some specific points you might prompt the group to touch on, if it doesn't happen naturally:<br />
* What to do if you feel uncomfortable.<br />
* Noisebridge strives to be radically inclusive. What does that mean?<br />
* Noisebridge has an antiharassment policy. What does that mean?<br />
<br />
= Participation =<br />
<br />
Invite a knowledgable volunteer to describe who can participate at Noisebridge, including:<br />
* Describe how to get an rfid key for the door system<br />
* Describe how to get access to slack<br />
<br />
= [[Philanthropist|Philanthropists]]=<br />
* '''Invite a knowledgeable volunteer to describe''' [[Philanthropist/Pledge|Philantropy]], and the application process.<br />
* Read off any names from the binder for the past month. Any applicants must have their sponsor present to vouch for them.<br />
* If there are no objections, they're a philanthropist! Their pledge should be handed over to the [[Secretary]] posthaste, after which their token will be updated to give them the 24/7 access they've earned(?)<br />
<br />
= [[ Membership Binder ]] =<br />
<br />
* '''Invite a knowledgeable volunteer to describe''' [[membership]], and the application process.<br />
<blockquote>Being a member of Noisebridge is not like being a member of a gym or your local chess club. Anyone can come to Noisebridge to hack and learn: you don't need to be a member for that. At Noisebridge, membership is something different: it means taking responsibility and committing to help to maintain, improve, and govern Noisebridge. As a member of Noisebridge, you don't just come here to hack and learn, you actively work to improve what you see around you, help to deal with problems, and make this community and space better than it is today.</blockquote><br />
* Read off any names from the binder for the past month. Mark down a check or other indicator on every open application to keep track of how many weeks they've been read out.<br />
* Anyone eligible to join this week should<br />
** introduce themselves,<br />
** answer any questions members may have for them, then<br />
** leave the area in search of gifts (traditionally beer and a lime, or cookies) for the rest of the group.<br />
* The rest of the meeting should reach consensus on whether they may join.<br />
* Remember to applaud new members when they return.<br />
<br />
<br />
= Financial Report =<br />
* Funds in bank:<br />
* Noisetor (See the bulletpoints at the bottom of http://noisetor.net/finances/#summary):<br />
* Any other details by those participating in handling our financials<br />
<br />
= Consensus =<br />
<br />
* '''invite a knowledgeable volunteer to give '''[[Consensus Process|a brief primer on consensus process]]<br />
* It is important that everyone in attendance understands at least:<br />
** Blocking with verbalized principled objections.<br />
** Why we use consensus over other approaches to decision making.<br />
** How consensus isn't a legislative process<br />
** Why consensus isn't applicable to some things like conflict resolution, resolution of time sinks, and the like.<br />
<br />
== [[ Consensus Items History | Proposals from last week ]] ==<br />
''(Add any items which are consensed upon or someone has raised a principle objection for to the [[Consensus Items History]] page.)''<br />
<br />
== [[ Current Consensus Items | Proposals for next week ]] ==<br />
''(Add any new items for consensus to the [[Current Consensus Items]] page.)''<br />
<br />
<br />
= Discussion =<br />
<br />
Longer discussion items belong here. This is the last part of the meeting so that people can break off and continue their discussion afterwards.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Discussion Items ==<br />
<br />
If any important discussion happens, it should be happening after forward progress is made during consensus.<br />
<br />
= End of Meeting =<br />
<br />
# Return the [[membership binder]] to its rightful location.<br />
# Discuss any items for which there was not time during the meeting.<br />
# Enjoy the company of your fellow hacker, robot, or robothacker.<br />
<br />
== Note taker posts the notes ==<br />
# Clean and tidy the meeting notes including removing all these really verbose instructions.<br />
# Fill out the short summary at the top listing just announcements, consensus items, discussion topics, and names of new members and philanthropists.<br />
# Copy paste the notes to the [http://www.noisebridge.net//Next_meeting next meeting] page. (They will become [[Last meeting]] at midnight.)<br />
# Email the meeting summary to [mailto:noisebridge-discuss@lists.noisebridge.net?subject=MeetingNotes Noisebridge Discuss] and [mailto:noisebridge-announce@lists.noisebridge.net?subject=MeetingNotes Noisebridge Announce] lists.<br />
# CC on the email treasurer@noisebridge.net and secretary@noisebridge.net if there are new members and philanthropists.<br />
# Edit the [[Current_Consensus_Items|Current Consensus Items]] if anything is proposed for consensus next week.<br />
# Edit the [[Consensus_Items_History|Consensus Items History]] if anything was reached consensus or failed to reach consensus this week.<br />
<br />
== Fun things to do after ==<br />
* Reprise of the [[Hackernationale]]. [This is anarchy - we do what the wiki says!]<br />
* [[PGP|PGP Key Signing]] could happen now (if it doesn't happen '''before''' any given Meeting). Ask others around the space or check the [[PGP|list]] to see who wants in on the action.<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:Meeting Notes]]</div>Scottyhttps://www.noisebridge.net/index.php?title=NoisebridgeChinaTrip7&diff=60219NoisebridgeChinaTrip72017-08-25T03:26:38Z<p>Scotty: /* People interested in going on the Hacker Trip to China #7, 2017: */</p>
<hr />
<div>= NOISEBRIDGE HACKER TRIP TO CHINA #7<br>-- Start Date: 8-October-2017, in Hong Kong<br>-- End Date: 28-October-2017, in Shanghai=<br />
<br />
[[File:HTTC2014WelcomeHackers.jpg|thumb|right|Trip #4 Welcome to China!, Beijing]]<br />
<br />
[[File:KungFuHacking_Nov_2013.jpg|thumb|right|Trip #3 Kung Fu Hacking: Hackers In Residence Kickoff event at Tsinghua University, Beijing]]<br />
<br />
[[File:petrochemical_university.jpg|thumb|right|Trip #2 Visit to Petrochemical Univeristy, Beijing]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Beijing_Oct_2009.jpg|thumb|right|Trip #1 Jingshan Park, Beijing]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Shenzhen_Oct_2016.jpg|thumb|right|Trip #5 Visit to Seeed Studio's factory, Shenzhen]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Zhenzhou_Oct_2016.jpg|thumb|right|Trip #5 Presentations at Zhengzhou High School #2, Zhengzhou]]<br />
<br />
== Previous Hacker Trips To China ==<br />
::''This will be the 7th Noisebridge Hacker Trip To China.''<br><br />
::'''''(The dates are set, the start and end cities are set, but the itinerary is an outline and open to change.)'''''<br />
::''In previous years' Hacker Trip To China, we've visited cities that currently have a hackerspace, visited my manufacturer, Seeed Studio, and other manufacturers. We also visited Tsinghua University, considered the most prestigious university in China, and other schools -- all of which have now starting hackerspaces. China continues to explode with hackerspaces! We also went to the International Exhibition of Inventions Kunshan (IEIK 2014), near Shanghai. And everywhere we went, we were shown around by local geeks, to see what they thought was interesting where they live. Also, wherever we went, those of us interested gave talks, presentations, workshops, and demos. In 2016 we gave presentations at NY University - Shanghai, DFRobot (an open hardware company in Shanghai), Shanghai Maker Carnival, Zhengzhou High School Number 2, "Second Generation and Start-ups" conference in Hangzhou.''<br><br />
<br />
::''You can see info on the [[ChinaTrip|Hacker Trip To China 2009]],''<br><br />
::''[[NoisebridgeChinaTrip2|Hacker Trip To China 2011]]''<br><br />
::''[[NoisebridgeChinaTrip3|Hacker Trip To China 2013]]''<br><br />
::''[[NoisebridgeChinaTrip4|Hacker Trip To China 2014]]''<br><br />
::''[[NoisebridgeChinaTrip5|Hacker Trip To China 2015]]''<br><br />
::''[[NoisebridgeChinaTrip6|Hacker Trip To China 2016]],''<br><br />
<br />
::-- [[User:Maltman23|Mitch]].<br />
<br />
== This year's Hacker Trip To China ==<br />
'''When:''' 8-October-2017 in Hong Kong through 28-October-2017 in Shanghai.<br />
<br />
'''Flight, transportation, and hotel Info''': We were each be on our own to book our own air fare to meet in our starting city, Hong Kong, on 8-October, and fly home from out ending city, Shanghai, on 28-October. Of course, you can decide to come and go as you please.<br><br />
<br />
I'll organized the itinerary and the hotels and other transport. I'll pay in advance for some of this, and you can pay me back when we're in China.<br><br />
<br />
<br />
'''Where:''' In each of the cities we will go to, we'll visit some of their local hackerspace(s), and will be shown around by local geeks to see what interested them where they live. We'll also have plenty of time to do "normal" (and spectacular) tourist things too!<br><br />
<br />
'''Here's some possible places we might visit, leaving plenty of room for the serendipity that makes our Hacker Trip To China truly unique and memorable:'''<br><br />
* We will start our trip by meeting in <span style="color:red">'''Hong Kong'''</span> and visit [http://www.dimsumlabs.com/ Dim Sum Labs] hackerspace. Hong Kong is a fantastic city, so, we'll also see lots of other cool stuff in Hong Kong.<br><br />
* Then we'll go across the border to mainland China again, to <span style="color:red">'''Shenzhen'''</span> to visit [http://www.chaihuo.org/ Chaihuo Makerspace], [http://www.szdiy.org/ SZDIY] hackerspace, [http://litchee.cn/en/ Litchee Lab], and a few other hackerspaces, some of which are real, and hundreds of which are brand new (this year) over-the-top bizarre government-started places where they want to create "the next Apple" (we won't visit them all!). We'll visit [http://www.chaihuo.org/xfactory/ x.factory] while we are in town, an interesting mix of hackerspace and incubator, where we will be welcomed for a Bring-A-Hack event, where anyone of us (for those who want to), along with the general public, can show off their projects. We will also visit [http://www.seeedstudio.com Seeed Studio] - the open source hardware company - to meet the cool folks there and to see their manufacturing facilities. We may meet with the founders of [http://dangerousprototypes.com/ Dangerous Prototypes] - another open source hardware company. We'll also visit other manufacturers, to see where all the things we use in our daily lives come from (such as springs, cables, PCBs, packaging, etc., etc.). We can also visit Dorabot, a Chinese robotics company comprised of people in the Shenzhen hackerspace scene. Of course, we'll also visit the famous (and totally awesome!) [http://www.evilmadscientist.com/article.php/shenzhen/print Huaqiangbei electronics market] in Shenzhen (where, we may again be shown around by a professional buyer from Deal Extreme (dx.com). And if uhgall@gmail.com happens to be in town, we might visit [http://www.constellation.ws/ Constellation] or even stay in their factory dorm. <br><br />
* We will then make our way to <span style="color:red">'''Beijing'''</span> where we may visit [http://www.bjmakerspace.com/ Beijing Makerspace], and other hackerspaces. We'll also visit Tsinghua University, where they built the world's largest hackerspace last year (called the "iCenter"), and where I've been hacker in residence. Beijing has lots and lots of way amazing stuff to visit and be a part of!<br />
* Our last city will be <span style="color:red">'''Shanghai'''</span>. In Shanghai we will visit [http://www.etonnet.com/ my manufacturer (Etonnet)] that I have used for [http://www.tvbgone.com TV-B-Gone] remote controls and [http://www.neurodreamer.com NeuroDreamer] sleep masks, where we will all get to see how products are made, from start to finish, learning how manufacturing works. We will also visit [http://xinchejian.com/ XinCheJian] hackerspace in Shanghai. We can also visit companies started by hardware hacker geeks, such as [http://www.dfrobot.com/ DFRobot]. We can visit Phicomm, a medium-sized OEM manufacturer. We can also visit the [http://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/4064240200/in/set-72157622640069902/ Shanghai electronics mall] (a smaller version of the famous electronics mall we will later visit in Shenzhen). <br />
<br />
For most of us, our trip will end at the end of three weeks, as many people on our trip will fly home from our last city, Shanghai, on 28-October-2017.<br />
<br />
''Of course, everyone is free to arrive and leave whenever you like for the Hacker Trip To China.<br><br />
I will tentatively be flying home from Shanghai 28-October.<br>''<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Cost:''' For the Hacker Trip To China 2016, I paid $1,997 total (for 4 weeks), including air fare from SF, food, lodging, transportation, and everything -- including some electronics stuff and some clothing that I bought.<br><br />
''As in past years, part of this year's trip may be paid for by Tsinghua University and other places that invite us to give presentations.''<br />
<br />
<br />
'''#hashtag:''' [https://twitter.com/hashtag/httc2017 #httc2017] &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;(Hacker Trip To China 2017)<br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Possible itinerary outline for Hacker Trip to China 7 ==<br />
<br />
'''The start and end dates are set, the start and end cities are set, but the rest of the itinerary is open to serendipity:'''<br />
<span style="color:orange">''7-October-2017 -- '''Leave home''' for '''Hong Kong''' (arrive in Hong Kong on 8-October)''</span><br />
<span style="color:fuchsia">''8-October-2017 -- We all meet in '''Hong Kong''' -- hotel: to be determined</span><br />
<span style="color:green"><font size="3">'''8-October to 11-October -- Hong Kong'''</font></span><br />
<span style="color:green"><font size="3">'''11-October to 16-October -- Shenzhen'''</font></span><br />
12-October, 10am-12pm: Product Life Cycle class at NOA Labs<br />
12-October, 1pm-5pm: tour of Huaqiangbei (electronics markets)<br />
12-October, evening: meetup at HAX<br />
13-October: tour of factories<br />
15-October, 4pm-6pm: Chaihuo x.factory Bring-A-Hack<br />
<span style="color:green"><font size="3">'''16-October to 19-October -- Xi'an'''</font></span><br />
<span style="color:green"><font size="3">'''19-October to 24-October -- Beijing'''</font></span><br />
<span style="color:green"><font size="3">'''24-October to 28-October -- Shanghai'''</font></span> ''<br />
<span style="color:orange">''28-October-2017 -- '''fly home''' (arrive NA or EU on same day)''</span><br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Photos from Hacker Trip To China 2016==<br />
<gallery><br />
File:HTTC2016Shanghai.jpg<br />
File:HTTC2016Zhenzhou.jpg<br />
File:HTTC2016Shenzhen.jpg<br />
File:HTTC2016Beijing.jpg<br />
File:HTTC2016Hangzhou.jpg<br />
File:HTTC2016Beijing2.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/sets/72157672475058474/ Shanghai, Oct-2016]<br><br />
Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/sets/72157674645655612/ Zhengzhou, Oct-2016]<br><br />
Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/sets/72157676024748146/ Shenzhen, Oct-2016]<br><br />
Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/sets/72157676142107066/ Beijing, Oct-2016]<br><br />
Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/sets/72157676144570756/ Hangzhou, Oct-2016]<br><br />
Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/sets/72157672603805234/ Beijing Set 2, Oct-2016]<br><br />
<br />
[https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/collections/72157674928976010/ Mitch's photos all in one place]<br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Photos from Hacker Trip to China 2015==<br />
<gallery><br />
File:HTTC2015HongKongNeon.jpg<br />
File:HTTC2015ShenzhenFactory.jpg<br />
File:HTTC2015ShanghaiTempleMall.jpg<br />
File:HTTC2015BeijingDoor.jpg<br />
File:HTTC2015HangzhouTemple.jpg<br />
File:HTTC2015BeijingShop.jpg<br />
File:HTTC2015SuzhouUmbrellas.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/sets/72157659076735178 Hong Kong, Oct-2015]<br><br />
Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/sets/72157660026965949 Shenzhen, Oct-2015]<br><br />
Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/sets/72157660038275888 Shanghai, Oct-2015]<br><br />
Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/sets/72157658114137264 Beijing, Oct-2015]<br><br />
Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/albums/72157660424228042 YiWu & Hangzhou, Oct-2015]<br><br />
Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/albums/72157660650175925 Beijing Set 2, Oct-2015]<br><br />
Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/albums/72157658310336814 Shanghai & Suzhou, Oct-2015]<br><br />
<br />
[https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/collections/72157660374807166/ Mitch's photos all in one place]<br />
<br />
<br><br />
[https://picasaweb.google.com/dtharn/ChinaInOctober2015?feat=directlink Dave's photos]<br />
<br />
<br><br />
Blake's photos:<br />
* [https://www.flickr.com/photos/cwlcks/sets/72157662429341996 Hong Kong!]<br />
* [https://www.flickr.com/photos/cwlcks/albums/72157660150285384 Shenzen!]<br />
* [https://www.flickr.com/photos/cwlcks/albums/72157661790873029 Shanghai!]<br />
* [https://www.flickr.com/photos/cwlcks/albums/72157660153522904 Beijing!]<br />
<br><br />
<br />
Torrey's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/gp/torrey/Q840rT Hong Kong]<br><br />
Torrey's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/gp/torrey/yLo903 Shenzhen]<br><br />
Torrey's photos from [https://flic.kr/s/aHskqNiQeX Beijing]<br><br />
Torrey's photos from [https://flic.kr/s/aHskrE55NX Shanghai]<br><br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Photos from Hacker Trip to China 2014==<br />
<gallery><br />
File:HTTC2014WelcomeHackers.jpg<br />
File:HTTC20143Nod_b.jpg<br />
File:HTTC2014AiWeiWei.jpg<br />
File:HTTC2014BeijingLGBTcentre.jpg<br />
File:HTTC2014Brooms.jpg<br />
File:HTTC2014CableFactory.jpg<br />
File:HTTC2014ChaiHuo.jpg<br />
File:HTTC2014GiantSewing.jpg<br />
File:HTTC2014Huaqianbei.jpg<br />
File:HTTC2014IEIK2014.jpg<br />
File:HTTC2014SeeedStudio.jpg<br />
File:HTTC2014Shanghai.jpg<br />
File:HTTC2014Tianjin.jpg<br />
File:HTTC2014Tienanmen.jpg<br />
File:HTTC2014TrainConvenienceStore.jpg<br />
File:HTTC2014TsinghuaMakersDay.jpg<br />
File:HTTC20143Nod.jpg<br />
File:HTTC2014XinCheJian.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/sets/72157646894397704/ Beijing, Nov-2014]<br><br />
Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/sets/72157648975298719/ Shanghai, Nov-2014]<br><br />
Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/sets/72157648981933060/ Shenzhen, Nov-2014]<br><br />
Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/sets/72157649396351315/ Kunshan, Nov-2014]<br><br />
Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/sets/72157649148594118/ Shanghai (2), Nov-2014]<br><br />
Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/sets/72157649146775640/ Beijing (2), Nov-2014]<br><br />
Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/sets/72157649146987360/ Tianjin, Nov-2014]<br><br />
Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/sets/72157647372474753/ Beijing (3), Nov-2014]<br><br />
Mitch's photos from [https://www.flickr.com/photos/maltman23/sets/72157649287546450/ Singapore, Dec-2014]<br><br />
<br />
== You will Need a Chinese Visa!! ==<br />
To go to China, you needed to get a visa!<br />
<br />
Everyone should get a multiple-entry Tourist L visa (if you only get a single-entry visa, you'll be fine, but you won't have as many options, such as going in and out of Shenzhen to Hong Kong).<br />
<br />
* And to get a visa, you need to have a passport that is valid ''at least'' 12 months after you planned to fly away from China (so, e.g., if you are leaving China on 28-October-2017, then your passport needs to be valid through 27-October-2017). Your passport must also have at least ''one entirely blank page''.<br />
<br />
* You also need:<br />
** a printout of a filled-out [http://www.china-embassy.org/eng/visas/fd/W020130830801798289342.pdf Visa Application Form V. 2013 of the People's Republic of China] (after we have everything we need I'll email you my filled out form as an example to follow).<br />
** a copy of the information pages of your passport.<br />
** a copy of your most Chinese visa (if you have been to China before).<br />
** one 2"x2" recent color photo (not a printout).<br />
** a screenshot or printout of hotel reservation confirmation (I'll email this to you when I have this).<br />
** a copy of your airline tickets (both to and from China).<br />
<br />
* For US citizens, the visa cost $140 (much cheaper for other nationalities). Starting this year, US citizens can get a multiple-entry visa, good for 10 years. We should all apply for a Tourist L visa.<br />
<br />
You can pay the fee by Visa, MasterCard, Money Order, Cashier's Check or Company Check. ''Cash or Personal checks are not acceptable.''<br />
<br />
To get a visa, you can go to your local Chinese consulate. No appointment is required. You go in one day, and it will be ready for pick up 4 business days later. My experience is that it takes about an hour the first day, and takes only a few minutes to pick up the visa a few days later. (2 to 3 business-day and 1 business day/same-day express service is available for $20 or $30.)<br><br><br />
''NOTE: The Chinese consulates are all closed for holidays on: 27-30 January, 29-30 May, 30-May, 9-June, 4-July, 4-September, 2-October, 9-October and other dates:<br><br />
[http://www.chinaconsulatesf.org/eng/lszj/t1424287.htm 2017 Chinese Consulate Holiday Schedule]''<br />
<br><br><br />
(Citizens of US and Europe ''do not'' need a separate visa for Hong Kong.)<br />
<br><br><br />
<br />
= Previous Noisebridge China Trips =<br />
''If you're curious about the previous Noisebridge China Trips, they have their own wiki pages:''<br><br />
[[ChinaTrip|Hacker Trip To China 2009]]<br><br />
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;That first Noisebridge China Trip was inspired by Bunny Huang's [http://www.evilmadscientist.com/article.php/shenzhen/print "geek tour"].<br />
<br><br />
[[NoisebridgeChinaTrip2|Hacker Trip To China 2011]]<br />
<br><br />
[[NoisebridgeChinaTrip3|Hacker Trip to China 2013]]<br />
<br><br />
[[NoisebridgeChinaTrip4|Hacker Trip to China 2014]]<br />
<br><br />
[[NoisebridgeChinaTrip5|Hacker Trip to China 2015]]<br />
<br><br />
[[NoisebridgeChinaTrip6|Hacker Trip to China 2016]]<br />
<br />
<br />
--[[user: maltman23 | Mitch]].<br />
<br />
= People interested in going on the Hacker Trip to China #7, 2017: =<br />
<br />
<span style="color:red"><br />
'''Below is a list of people interested in going on this year's Hacker Trip To China.'''<br />
</span><br><br />
<br />
<span style="color:green"><br />
'''You do not need to be a member of Noisebridge to go on this trip!'''<br />
</span><br><br />
<br />
'''Please email me if you have any questions, or if you would like to meet up with us on the trip:'''<br><br />
''mitch *AT* CornfieldElectronics *DOT* com''<br />
<br />
The trip is limited to 20 people total (including Mitch)<br><br />
-- the first 19 people (after Mitch) who are either there already, or who bought tickets to meet in our Trip's starting city (Hong Kong) on or before 8-October-2017 are the people who are in this Trip<br>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;(which probably means flying away from home on or before 7-October)<br><br><br />
<br />
<span style="color:gray"><br />
Note: Many people have gotten good deals on their plane fares (including me) with the help of my friend Vlad at:<br>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;[http://www.flystein.com/ Flystein]<br>Feel free to email me, and I'll send your email to Vlad, who will be happy to help you with your flights.<br />
</span><br><br><br />
<br />
{| style="color:green; background-color:#ffffcc;" cellpadding="10" cellspacing="0" border="1"<br />
!<br />
! Name<br />
! Purchased flight?<br />
! Flight info<br />
|-<br />
|1<br />
|[[user: maltman23 | Mitch Altman]] (Noisebridge, San Francisco, USA)<br />
|align="center"|YES<br />
|Arrive: Hong Kong on 6-Oct at 17:10 -- flight CX254 (from LHR)<br />
|-<br />
|2<br />
|Robert Fitzsimons (TOG, Ireland)<br />
|align="center"|YES<br />
|Arrive: Hong Kong on 8-Oct at 15:25 -- flight EK382 (from DXB)<br>Depart: Shanghai at 00:05 on Oct 29th (EK8303)<br />
|-<br />
|3<br />
|Noah O'Donoghue<br />
|align="center"|YES<br />
|Arrive: Hong Kong on 8-Oct<br />
|-<br />
|4<br />
|[[user: elleobot | Elle]]<br />
|align="center"|YES<br />
|Arrive: I'm arriving on the 6th and have my own AirBNB until the 8th in Sheung Wan. I'll meet you all on the 8th. :)<br />
|-<br />
|5<br />
|Jonas S Karlsson<br />
|align="center"|YES<br />
|Arrive: (live in HK)<br />
|-<br />
|6<br />
|Jan Marloth (fablab munich, Germany)<br />
|align="center"|YES<br />
|Arrive: Hong Kong on 8-Oct at 7:20am -- flight SK963 (from ARN)<br>Depart: Beijing at 14:50 on Oct 24th (SK996)<br />
|-<br />
|7<br />
|Sasja (hackerspace.gent)<br />
|align="center"|YES<br />
|Arrive: Hong Kong 8-Oct at 8:55am, <br>Depart: 28-Oct from Shanghai Hongqiao Airport at 20:55<br />
|-<br />
|8<br />
|Ed Buckley<br />
|align="center"|YES<br />
|Arrive: Hong Kong 6-Oct at 1:45pm -- flight NH809 (from NRT)<br />
|-<br />
|9<br />
|Rafael Câmera Santos (Fazedores.com, Brazil)<br />
|align="center"|YES<br />
|Arrive: Hong Kong 8-Oct at 18:10 -- Flight UA 895 -- Leaving on 9-Nov from Hong Kong<br />
|-<br />
|10<br />
|[[user: feklee | Felix E. Klee]]<br />
|align="center"|YES<br />
|Arrive: Hong Kong on 5-Oct at 20:25 -- flight SU5474 (from VVO), after traveling by train from Berlin<br />
|-<br />
|11<br />
|Svein Berge<br />
|align="center"|YES<br />
|Arrive: UO 1647 from Tokyo, scheduled arrival Oct 8, 23:00.<br />
|-<br />
|12<br />
|Krzysztof Stasiak<br />
|align="center"|YES<br />
|Arrive: HK 6th Oct - flight AK138 from Kuala Lumpur<br />
|-<br />
|13<br />
|Olivier de Saint-Hubert<br />
|align="center"|YES<br />
|Arrive: ''will be in HK before Oct 8''<br />
|-<br />
|14<br />
|Mark Hellar<br />
|align="center"|YES<br />
|Arrive:Hong Kong HKG 6:45 PM October 8th<br />
|-<br />
|15<br />
|[[user: mrericboyd | Eric Boyd]] ([http://hacklab.to Hacklab.TO], Toronto)<br />
|align="center"|YES<br />
|Arrive: Hong Kong, Oct 8th 2:25pm EVA Airways BR869. Leave: Shanghai, Oct 28th 1:10pm Eva Airways, BR711<br />
|-<br />
|16<br />
|[[user: Ruthgrace | Ruth Grace Wong]]<br />
|align="center"|YES<br />
|Arrive: October 9, Hong Kong, Leave: October 28, Shanghai<br />
|-<br />
|17<br />
|Hari C M (HasGeek, Bangalore, India)<br />
|align="center"|YES<br />
|Arrive: 'Hong Kong on 7-Oct at 06:50 -- flight AI-314 (from DEL)<br>Depart: Shanghai at 22:00 on Oct 29th (AI-349)<br />
|-<br />
|18<br />
|freeman murray<br />
|align="center"|YES<br />
|Arrive: Oct 7, Hong Kong American airlines 193.<br />
|-<br />
|19<br />
|[[user: sumukh | Sumukh Shetty]]<br />
|align="center"|YES<br />
|Arrive: 6th October HK, join for the entire trip<br />
|-<br />
|20<br />
|Gary Hatfield<br />
|align="center"|YES<br />
|Arrive: Hong Kong Oct. 5<br />
|-<br />
|21<br />
|Michał Gajda<br />
|align="center"|YES<br />
|Arrive: Flight to HK on Oct 3rd<br />
|-<br />
|22<br />
|Gene Brock<br />
|align="center"|YES!<br />
|Arrive: Thai AirAsia FD508 from Don Mueang Int'l Airport (Bangkok) to HKG Sep 30th 6:30am arriving 10:30 am in HKG. <br />
|-<br />
|23<br />
|Kaushik Reddy<br />
|align="center"|yes<br />
|Arrive: Hong Kong on 8 Oct <br>Depart: Hong Kong on 15 Oct<br>'''HK & SZ only'''<br />
|-<br />
|24<br />
|Jeroen Van Beirendonck (Open Garage, Belgium)<br />
|align="center"|yes<br />
|Arrive: Hong Kong on 7th Oct <br>Depart: Hong Kong on 15 Oct<br>'''HK & SZ only'''<br />
|-<br />
|25<br />
|[[user: Cedric | Cedric Honnet]] ([http://wiki.datapaulette.org Datapaulette hackerspace] - Paris, Fr.)<br />
|align="center"|yes<br />
|Arrive: Hong Kong on 6 Oct <br>Depart: Hong Kong on 21 Oct<br>'''HK & SZ only'''<br />
|-<br />
|26<br />
|Anthony Liekens (Open Garage, Belgium)<br />
|align="center"|yes<br />
|Arrive: KL 4013 to arrive in Shenzhen on Oct 11, 18:00<br>Depart: From Shenzhen on Oct 18, 10:00<br>'''SZ only'''<br />
|-<br />
|27<br />
|Daan Gerits (Open Garage, Belgium)<br />
|align="center"|yes<br />
|Arrive: KL 4013 to arrive in Shenzhen on Oct 11, 18:00<br>'''SZ only'''<br />
|-<br />
|28<br />
|Tim Lathouwers<br />
|align="center"|yes<br />
|Arrive: arrive in Shenzhen on Oct 11<br>'''SZ only'''<br />
|-<br />
|29<br />
|Kate Hartman<br />
|align="center"|yes<br />
|Arrive: I will be working in Shanghai the week of October 9th. Would love to join you in Shenzhen Oct 14/15/16<br>'''SZ only'''<br />
|-<br />
|30<br />
|''[[user: keymistress | Gloria Chiang]]''<br />
|align="center"|no<br />
|Arrive: Beijing on (date TBD)<br />
|-<br />
|31<br />
|''Noah Swartz''<br />
|align="center"|no<br />
|Arrive: Tickets to be purchased, but will be soon!!<br />
|-<br />
|32<br />
|''[[user:juul|Marc Juul]]''<br />
|align="center"|no<br />
|Arrive: Beijing on (date TBD)<br />
|-<br />
|33<br />
|''Quijano Flores -- '''PLEASE EMAIL ME'''''<br />
|align="center"|no<br />
|Arrive: Oct 8, Hong Kong<br />
|-<br />
|34<br />
|''[[user: scitechindian | SYED JUNAID AHMED]] (Makers Hive, AndhraPradesh, INDIA)''<br />
|align="center"|no<br />
|Arrive: TBD<br />
|-<br />
|35<br />
|''[[user: Rahulrajan| Rahul S Rajan]] (Kerala Startup Mission, India)''<br />
|align="center"|no<br />
|Arrive: TBD<br />
|-<br />
|36<br />
|''Sasha Iatsenia''<br />
|align="center"|no<br />
|Arrive: TBD<br />
|-<br />
|37<br />
|''[[user: robbintt | Trent]]''<br />
|align="center"|no<br />
|Arrive: ''your arrival date and city here''<br />
|-<br />
|38<br />
|''Arseniy Klempner''<br />
|align="center"|no<br />
|Arrive: Oct 8, Hong Kong<br />
|-<br />
|39<br />
|''Thomas Disley''<br />
|align="center"|no<br />
|Arrive: shenzhen & shanghai, arrival TBD<br />
|-<br />
|40<br />
|''Adam Munich - SF_Noisebridge, Oakland_Sudoroom [http://adammunich.com]]''<br />
|align="center"|no<br />
|Arrive: To be determined<br />
|-<br />
|41<br />
|''[[user: sreejith| Sreejith Mohanan]] -- '''PLEASE EMAIL ME'''''<br />
|align="center"|no<br />
|Arrive: ''TBD''<br />
|-<br />
|42<br />
|Colin Willson<br />
|align="center"|no<br />
|Arrive: ''TBD''<br />
|-<br />
|43<br />
|Bas<br />
|align="center"|no<br />
|Arrive: Oct 8, Hong Kong<br />
|-<br />
|44<br />
|[[user: scotty | Scotty Allen]]<br />
|align="center"|yes<br />
|Arrive: Oct 11, Shenzhen<br />
'''SZ only - will arrange own housing'''<br />
|-<br />
|45<br />
|''your name here''<br />
|align="center"|no<br />
|Arrive: ''your arrival date and city here''<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:Travel]]<br />
[[Category:Projects]]</div>Scottyhttps://www.noisebridge.net/index.php?title=How_we_keep_Noisebridge_safe&diff=54416How we keep Noisebridge safe2016-10-07T16:40:57Z<p>Scotty: Undo revision 54414 by 23.254.211.232 (talk) revert vandalism</p>
<hr />
<div>= DRAFT - How we keep a healthy, safe Noisebridge community = <br />
<br />
This is a very rough draft of something I've been working on on and off for a while in an attempt to try and communicate to newer people in our community how our no-process tools and patterns work around dealing with issues in the space, without actually defining a formal process. Comments and suggestions welcome.<br />
<br />
Noisebridge has learned a lot in the past few years about how to keep our community healthy and safe. We've tried a lot of things that didn't work, and in the process, found a few that did. This is an attempt to catalog some of the things we've learned, both to help pass on our learnings to newer community members as well as to share with other communities that may benefit from our past.<br />
<br />
Noisebridge is a very unique community in many ways. We want to be able to have nice things, and a space that everyone feels safe and comfortable to hack, learn, and teach in. But we also want to be radically inclusive and as open as possible. This is sometimes in conflict with our surrounding neighborhood and the culture we live in. Because of this, we've had to learn new tools and approaches to problems that other communities either don't have, or solve in different ways that wouldn't work for us.<br />
<br />
Here are some of the components of maintaining a safe, healthy space and community at Noisebridge:<br />
* Progressive vetting: access card levels, slack access, membership<br />
* Ongoing discussion and spreading the culture around how we maintain a safe, healthy, welcome space and community.<br />
* Always greeting people at the door, filtering who comes in and giving newcomers tours, and training people how to do this.<br />
* Closing the space at night when the last philanthropist or member leaves, or at 11pm if people no longer want to be responsible for keeping the space open.<br />
* Actively talking about people that exhibit red flags, even before it reaches critical mass in person and/or on the #space-guardians slack channel.<br />
* Empowering individuals to do-ocratically ask people to leave and/or not come back<br />
* Reciprocal safe space bans with other bay area hackerspaces<br />
* Maintaining the 86 page on the wiki with photos and descriptions of people that are not welcome at noisebridge<br />
* Our [[Anti-Harassment Policy]]<br />
* TODO: more antiharrassment stuff here<br />
<br />
== Progressive vetting ==<br />
<br />
We like to gradually get to know new people to the community before we trust them with the keys to the kingdom.<br />
<br />
Here's a couple ways we do that:<br />
<br />
=== RFID access cards ===<br />
<br />
We use RFID cards to open the downstairs gate/upstair door at noisebridge, both to let ourselves in from outside, and to let others in from inside the space.<br />
<br />
These are the different access levels for door access:<br />
* Doorbell: When you first come to Noisebridge, you can ring the doorbell, and if there's someone in the space with an RFID who has time to show you around, they'll let you in. Everyone is welcome to ring the doorbell any time!<br />
* Temporary daylight access: Once you've been to Noisebridge a few times and get to know a few people, you can ask any member to give you temporary 30-day anonymous access during daylight hours (11am-10pm).<br />
* Permanent daylight access: Once you've gotten to know the community a bit better, you can ask a member to have your name/email address associated with your RFID card. This makes your card no longer anonymous (so we can remove your access if you screw up), but will never expire.<br />
* 24/7 access: [[Philanthropist]] and [[Member]] have full time access. Here's more information about how to become a member/philanthropist: (TODO).<br />
<br />
=== Slack ===<br />
<br />
We have public [[Mailing lists]] and an [[IRC|irc channel]] that anyone can join. However, we have a slack community we use heavily for discussion within the community. It's really high signal-to-noise, and very low on trolls and sock puppets. We try and keep it that way by only inviting people to Slack once they've been hanging out in the space for a while, and we've gotten to know them.<br />
<br />
=== Philanthropists ===<br />
<br />
Philanthropists have 24x7 access to the space, and as such, may potentially be by themselves either late at night or early in the morning, or may be sponsoring other non-philanthropist/non-members in the space later at night. As such, we want to make sure we trust them to treat the space excellently, and make sure they know how to greet people at the door, how to give a tour, and how to close up the space at night if they're the last person in the space. See [[Philanthropist]] for more info<br />
<br />
=== Membership ===<br />
<br />
Members have the ability to single-handedly block our [[Consensus|Consensus process]]. Thus, we really want to get to know someone before they become a member. Generally, we suggest that people don't apply to be a member until they've been active in the community for at least 6 months. There's lots more info about the [[Member|membership process]] on the wiki.<br />
<br />
== Ongoing discussion ==<br />
<br />
Oh my god, are we having THAT discussion again? Yes, yes we are.<br />
<br />
We mostly spread culture at Noisebridge through talking about it. This happens pretty readily with topics hackers generally love, like the one true text editor (hint: it's vim), but less readily with topics hackers like less, like how to handle interpersonal conflict. We've learned a lot about how to keep our community healthy over the lifetime of Noisebridge, and we share that knowledge by continually talking about it. This means we often have the same ongoing conversations, particularly with newer community members, about how we greet people, what we consider acceptable behavior, and how we deal with problems when they come up.<br />
<br />
== How we handle people causing problems at Noisebridge ==<br />
<br />
Participation in Noisebridge is a privilege, not a right. The health of the Noisebridge community comes first and foremost. Everything else is built on that. There's a balance between being fair and attempting restorative justice, and preserving the precious energy of core community members.<br />
<br />
Repeat after me: '''there is no process.'''<br />
<br />
Here are a few reasons why:<br />
* Formal process is too easily gamed.<br />
* Formal process that requires putting the same amount of energy into all situations burns out core community members.<br />
* Most people come to Noisebridge to hack, not to deal with curating the community. Not having a formal process limits drama to those involved and those willing and interested in dealing with it.<br />
<br />
Channels for dealing with people that are causing problems in the community may include (but not necessarily):<br />
* In person 1:1 discussion between community members<br />
* Conversations with the problematic person<br />
* Discussion on the #space-guardians<br />
* Out of band slack discussion (often used for sensitive issues)<br />
* In person group discussions<br />
<br />
Remedies:<br />
* Anyone can ask someone to leave<br />
* Anyone can ask someone to leave and not come back<br />
* Informal consensus amount frequent community participants can lead to:<br />
* being asked to leave<br />
an informal ban<br />
* being added to the 86 page<br />
* re-including someone back into the community who was previously asked to leave<br />
<br />
Some things we used to do that we don't do anymore:<br />
* Ask people that have been asked to leave to come to the next Tuesday meeting. This frequently turns the Tuesday meetings into a giant drama-fest, which drives away new community members, burns out existing community members, and makes people not to want to come to the meetings anymore.<br />
* Have a formal banning/appeals process. Having a formal process assumes that there's a single one-size-fits all process to handle all situations, which we've learned simply doesn't exist. Each situation needs to be handled separately, in the context of both the situation itself, and the current state of the rest of the community. In addition, having a formal rigid process gives an opportunity for those not welcome in the community to game the system and/or drag out the process, exhausting any community members will to engage in the process, which eventually leads to burn out.<br />
* Guarantee the same level of due process for everyone, regardless of the situation. As a fully volunteer run community, our time and energy is incredibly scarce and precious. Not all situations deserve the same level of investment.<br />
* Involve people who don't want to be involved with safe space issues. If you don't want to deal with drama in the space, you don't have to. You don't have to answer the door, nor do you have to be subscribed to #space-guardians on slack. If you just want to shut up and hack, you're encouraged to do so. By keeping safe space issues and interpersonal drama out of the weekly Tuesday meeting and off the noisebridge-discuss mailing list, we allow each person in the community to make this choice for themselves.<br />
* Mediation by default/demand - We only do it if it's likely to succeed and everyone involved wants to do it.<br />
<br />
== Red Flags ==<br />
<br />
Red flags are small signs that someone might be doing or going to try and do something that hurts the Noisebridge community. Seeing one warning sign is a reason for concern, but not a problem in and of itself. We talk about red flags when we see them to figure out if there's a larger pattern of behavior that no one person is seeing. Ie, someone found someone asleep on the couch, but didn't think too much of it. They mention it, and find out that three other people have woken the same person up, and a fourth person saw them stashing clothes in the wood shop. Now there's a much different story, which makes it pretty clear that this person doesn't belong at Noisebridge.<br />
<br />
Red flags include, but are not limited to:<br />
* Name dropping to invoke privilege. Particularly if that person is Mitch, "the owner", or "the people in charge".<br />
* Bolting past the person opening the door for them and heading for the back of the space<br />
* Immediately heading to a hidey-hole - a dark, unpopulated corner of the space<br />
* Immediately rummaging through things after coming in. Either in the hack shelves, or elsewhere in the space.<br />
* Demanding help/attention when first coming in to the space (ie, fix my laptop/phone)<br />
* Lying<br />
* Giving people a hard time when someone questions their behavior or asks them to leave.<br />
* Only taking from the space - this mean direct theft of tools/hack shelf contents/laptops/materials/etc, or simply taking energy out of the space, by ie, sleeping, constantly complaining, etc.<br />
* Only giving to the space - this is also known as the Savior/Martyr pattern (see below).<br />
* Only using the Noisebridge kitchen/internet/couches<br />
* Ringing the doorbell late at night<br />
* Storing personal items/clothing at Noisebridge, particularly in out-of-sight places<br />
* Not making sense - racing thoughts, paranoia, etc<br />
* Immediately asking about the 24 hour access policy<br />
* Showing a sense of entitlement - an attitude that Noisebridge exists solely for their benefit<br />
* Gets argumentative quickly vs discussing when things don't go their way<br />
* Argues about how Noisebridge should be when brand new to the community<br />
* Sleeps in the space<br />
* Shows up drunk/high<br />
* Immediately tells you "I've been coming here for years."<br />
* Invokes anarchism as a reason why they can do whatever they want and don't have to listen to anyone else.<br />
* Reacts poorly when people introduce themselves or want to chat.<br />
<br />
The Savior/Martyr pattern:<br />
* Shows up at Noisebridge incredibly enthusiastic to "Make Noisebridge Better!"<br />
* Starts jumping into working on the Noisebridge infrastructure in lots of ways<br />
* Makes lots of suggestions for what Noisebridge is doing wrong and how to improve it without getting to know the community first<br />
* Doesn't explore or do any of their own projects<br />
* Doesn't make use of the Noisebridge classes/workshops/other resources<br />
* Develops a sense of propriety at Noisebridge - they are SAVING Noisebridge by making a huge personal sacrifice<br />
* Gets frustrated when they aren't in complete control, or resents that people don't recognize them enough for their sacrifice<br />
* Ends up rubbing people the wrong way<br />
* Doesn't change their behavior when people give them feedback<br />
* Eventually gets unwelcomed or banned in a spectacular explosion<br />
Often people that exhibit this pattern start out as very good contributors to the space, and are often well liked within the community. But it has always led to badness, often extreme, when people only contribute to, and don't benefit from the community.<br />
<br />
Shit that might feel unfair:<br />
* Some people's opinion carries more weight than others.<br />
* Not all conversations, particularly about safe space issues, happen in public forums. Sometimes there will be conversations you're not privvy to.<br />
* Not everyone is guaranteed the same level of due process.<br />
* Not everyone who fucks up in the space will get the same level of attention.<br />
<br />
== Someone asked me to leave. What should I do? ==<br />
<br />
(I'm not sure we have a good answer for this one yet. But I think this is the best answer I have right now.)<br />
<br />
Wow, sounds like you probably fucked up pretty bad. Noisebridge does not often ask someone to leave without a lot of discussion and consensus beforehand. You should leave without arguing. Now is not the time to make a stand. Refusing to leave or arguing about leaving significantly hurts your chances of ever being allowed back. Once you've left, reflect on why you were asked to leave.<br />
<br />
The starting point for resolving problems within the Noisebridge community is having a genuine willingness and ability to:<br />
* Hear feedback on how your behavior is affecting others<br />
* Engage in productive/constructive dialog about the feedback<br />
* Change your behavior based on feedback<br />
<br />
That being said, you might not be welcome back. There are no guarantees. It depends on how badly you screwed up, and whether a core community participant that other people trust and respect is willing to vouch for you and work with you to help you understand and address other people's concerns.</div>Scottyhttps://www.noisebridge.net/index.php?title=How_we_keep_Noisebridge_safe&diff=54397How we keep Noisebridge safe2016-10-06T16:54:02Z<p>Scotty: Undo revision 54390 by 85.25.103.69 (talk) revert vandalism</p>
<hr />
<div>= DRAFT - How we keep a healthy, safe Noisebridge community = <br />
<br />
This is a very rough draft of something I've been working on on and off for a while in an attempt to try and communicate to newer people in our community how our no-process tools and patterns work around dealing with issues in the space, without actually defining a formal process. Comments and suggestions welcome.<br />
<br />
Noisebridge has learned a lot in the past few years about how to keep our community healthy and safe. We've tried a lot of things that didn't work, and in the process, found a few that did. This is an attempt to catalog some of the things we've learned, both to help pass on our learnings to newer community members as well as to share with other communities that may benefit from our past.<br />
<br />
Noisebridge is a very unique community in many ways. We want to be able to have nice things, and a space that everyone feels safe and comfortable to hack, learn, and teach in. But we also want to be radically inclusive and as open as possible. This is sometimes in conflict with our surrounding neighborhood and the culture we live in. Because of this, we've had to learn new tools and approaches to problems that other communities either don't have, or solve in different ways that wouldn't work for us.<br />
<br />
Here are some of the components of maintaining a safe, healthy space and community at Noisebridge:<br />
* Progressive vetting: access card levels, slack access, membership<br />
* Ongoing discussion and spreading the culture around how we maintain a safe, healthy, welcome space and community.<br />
* Always greeting people at the door, filtering who comes in and giving newcomers tours, and training people how to do this.<br />
* Closing the space at night when the last philanthropist or member leaves, or at 11pm if people no longer want to be responsible for keeping the space open.<br />
* Actively talking about people that exhibit red flags, even before it reaches critical mass in person and/or on the #space-guardians slack channel.<br />
* Empowering individuals to do-ocratically ask people to leave and/or not come back<br />
* Reciprocal safe space bans with other bay area hackerspaces<br />
* Maintaining the 86 page on the wiki with photos and descriptions of people that are not welcome at noisebridge<br />
* Our [[Anti-Harassment Policy]]<br />
* TODO: more antiharrassment stuff here<br />
<br />
== Progressive vetting ==<br />
<br />
We like to gradually get to know new people to the community before we trust them with the keys to the kingdom.<br />
<br />
Here's a couple ways we do that:<br />
<br />
=== RFID access cards ===<br />
<br />
We use RFID cards to open the downstairs gate/upstair door at noisebridge, both to let ourselves in from outside, and to let others in from inside the space.<br />
<br />
These are the different access levels for door access:<br />
* Doorbell: When you first come to Noisebridge, you can ring the doorbell, and if there's someone in the space with an RFID who has time to show you around, they'll let you in. Everyone is welcome to ring the doorbell any time!<br />
* Temporary daylight access: Once you've been to Noisebridge a few times and get to know a few people, you can ask any member to give you temporary 30-day anonymous access during daylight hours (11am-10pm).<br />
* Permanent daylight access: Once you've gotten to know the community a bit better, you can ask a member to have your name/email address associated with your RFID card. This makes your card no longer anonymous (so we can remove your access if you screw up), but will never expire.<br />
* 24/7 access: [[Philanthropist]] and [[Member]] have full time access. Here's more information about how to become a member/philanthropist: (TODO).<br />
<br />
=== Slack ===<br />
<br />
We have public [[Mailing lists]] and an [[IRC|irc channel]] that anyone can join. However, we have a slack community we use heavily for discussion within the community. It's really high signal-to-noise, and very low on trolls and sock puppets. We try and keep it that way by only inviting people to Slack once they've been hanging out in the space for a while, and we've gotten to know them.<br />
<br />
=== Philanthropists ===<br />
<br />
Philanthropists have 24x7 access to the space, and as such, may potentially be by themselves either late at night or early in the morning, or may be sponsoring other non-philanthropist/non-members in the space later at night. As such, we want to make sure we trust them to treat the space excellently, and make sure they know how to greet people at the door, how to give a tour, and how to close up the space at night if they're the last person in the space. See [[Philanthropist]] for more info<br />
<br />
=== Membership ===<br />
<br />
Members have the ability to single-handedly block our [[Consensus|Consensus process]]. Thus, we really want to get to know someone before they become a member. Generally, we suggest that people don't apply to be a member until they've been active in the community for at least 6 months. There's lots more info about the [[Member|membership process]] on the wiki.<br />
<br />
== Ongoing discussion ==<br />
<br />
Oh my god, are we having THAT discussion again? Yes, yes we are.<br />
<br />
We mostly spread culture at Noisebridge through talking about it. This happens pretty readily with topics hackers generally love, like the one true text editor (hint: it's vim), but less readily with topics hackers like less, like how to handle interpersonal conflict. We've learned a lot about how to keep our community healthy over the lifetime of Noisebridge, and we share that knowledge by continually talking about it. This means we often have the same ongoing conversations, particularly with newer community members, about how we greet people, what we consider acceptable behavior, and how we deal with problems when they come up.<br />
<br />
== How we handle people causing problems at Noisebridge ==<br />
<br />
Participation in Noisebridge is a privilege, not a right. The health of the Noisebridge community comes first and foremost. Everything else is built on that. There's a balance between being fair and attempting restorative justice, and preserving the precious energy of core community members.<br />
<br />
Repeat after me: '''there is no process.'''<br />
<br />
Here are a few reasons why:<br />
* Formal process is too easily gamed.<br />
* Formal process that requires putting the same amount of energy into all situations burns out core community members.<br />
* Most people come to Noisebridge to hack, not to deal with curating the community. Not having a formal process limits drama to those involved and those willing and interested in dealing with it.<br />
<br />
Channels for dealing with people that are causing problems in the community may include (but not necessarily):<br />
* In person 1:1 discussion between community members<br />
* Conversations with the problematic person<br />
* Discussion on the #space-guardians<br />
* Out of band slack discussion (often used for sensitive issues)<br />
* In person group discussions<br />
<br />
Remedies:<br />
* Anyone can ask someone to leave<br />
* Anyone can ask someone to leave and not come back<br />
* Informal consensus amount frequent community participants can lead to:<br />
* being asked to leave<br />
an informal ban<br />
* being added to the 86 page<br />
* re-including someone back into the community who was previously asked to leave<br />
<br />
Some things we used to do that we don't do anymore:<br />
* Ask people that have been asked to leave to come to the next Tuesday meeting. This frequently turns the Tuesday meetings into a giant drama-fest, which drives away new community members, burns out existing community members, and makes people not to want to come to the meetings anymore.<br />
* Have a formal banning/appeals process. Having a formal process assumes that there's a single one-size-fits all process to handle all situations, which we've learned simply doesn't exist. Each situation needs to be handled separately, in the context of both the situation itself, and the current state of the rest of the community. In addition, having a formal rigid process gives an opportunity for those not welcome in the community to game the system and/or drag out the process, exhausting any community members will to engage in the process, which eventually leads to burn out.<br />
* Guarantee the same level of due process for everyone, regardless of the situation. As a fully volunteer run community, our time and energy is incredibly scarce and precious. Not all situations deserve the same level of investment.<br />
* Involve people who don't want to be involved with safe space issues. If you don't want to deal with drama in the space, you don't have to. You don't have to answer the door, nor do you have to be subscribed to #space-guardians on slack. If you just want to shut up and hack, you're encouraged to do so. By keeping safe space issues and interpersonal drama out of the weekly Tuesday meeting and off the noisebridge-discuss mailing list, we allow each person in the community to make this choice for themselves.<br />
* Mediation by default/demand - We only do it if it's likely to succeed and everyone involved wants to do it.<br />
<br />
== Red Flags ==<br />
<br />
Red flags are small signs that someone might be doing or going to try and do something that hurts the Noisebridge community. Seeing one warning sign is a reason for concern, but not a problem in and of itself. We talk about red flags when we see them to figure out if there's a larger pattern of behavior that no one person is seeing. Ie, someone found someone asleep on the couch, but didn't think too much of it. They mention it, and find out that three other people have woken the same person up, and a fourth person saw them stashing clothes in the wood shop. Now there's a much different story, which makes it pretty clear that this person doesn't belong at Noisebridge.<br />
<br />
Red flags include, but are not limited to:<br />
* Name dropping to invoke privilege. Particularly if that person is Mitch, "the owner", or "the people in charge".<br />
* Bolting past the person opening the door for them and heading for the back of the space<br />
* Immediately heading to a hidey-hole - a dark, unpopulated corner of the space<br />
* Immediately rummaging through things after coming in. Either in the hack shelves, or elsewhere in the space.<br />
* Demanding help/attention when first coming in to the space (ie, fix my laptop/phone)<br />
* Lying<br />
* Giving people a hard time when someone questions their behavior or asks them to leave.<br />
* Only taking from the space - this mean direct theft of tools/hack shelf contents/laptops/materials/etc, or simply taking energy out of the space, by ie, sleeping, constantly complaining, etc.<br />
* Only giving to the space - this is also known as the Savior/Martyr pattern (see below).<br />
* Only using the Noisebridge kitchen/internet/couches<br />
* Ringing the doorbell late at night<br />
* Storing personal items/clothing at Noisebridge, particularly in out-of-sight places<br />
* Not making sense - racing thoughts, paranoia, etc<br />
* Immediately asking about the 24 hour access policy<br />
* Showing a sense of entitlement - an attitude that Noisebridge exists solely for their benefit<br />
* Gets argumentative quickly vs discussing when things don't go their way<br />
* Argues about how Noisebridge should be when brand new to the community<br />
* Sleeps in the space<br />
* Shows up drunk/high<br />
* Immediately tells you "I've been coming here for years."<br />
* Invokes anarchism as a reason why they can do whatever they want and don't have to listen to anyone else.<br />
* Reacts poorly when people introduce themselves or want to chat.<br />
<br />
The Savior/Martyr pattern:<br />
* Shows up at Noisebridge incredibly enthusiastic to "Make Noisebridge Better!"<br />
* Starts jumping into working on the Noisebridge infrastructure in lots of ways<br />
* Makes lots of suggestions for what Noisebridge is doing wrong and how to improve it without getting to know the community first<br />
* Doesn't explore or do any of their own projects<br />
* Doesn't make use of the Noisebridge classes/workshops/other resources<br />
* Develops a sense of propriety at Noisebridge - they are SAVING Noisebridge by making a huge personal sacrifice<br />
* Gets frustrated when they aren't in complete control, or resents that people don't recognize them enough for their sacrifice<br />
* Ends up rubbing people the wrong way<br />
* Doesn't change their behavior when people give them feedback<br />
* Eventually gets unwelcomed or banned in a spectacular explosion<br />
Often people that exhibit this pattern start out as very good contributors to the space, and are often well liked within the community. But it has always led to badness, often extreme, when people only contribute to, and don't benefit from the community.<br />
<br />
Shit that might feel unfair:<br />
* Some people's opinion carries more weight than others.<br />
* Not all conversations, particularly about safe space issues, happen in public forums. Sometimes there will be conversations you're not privvy to.<br />
* Not everyone is guaranteed the same level of due process.<br />
* Not everyone who fucks up in the space will get the same level of attention.<br />
<br />
== Someone asked me to leave. What should I do? ==<br />
<br />
(I'm not sure we have a good answer for this one yet. But I think this is the best answer I have right now.)<br />
<br />
Wow, sounds like you probably fucked up pretty bad. Noisebridge does not often ask someone to leave without a lot of discussion and consensus beforehand. You should leave without arguing. Now is not the time to make a stand. Refusing to leave or arguing about leaving significantly hurts your chances of ever being allowed back. Once you've left, reflect on why you were asked to leave.<br />
<br />
The starting point for resolving problems within the Noisebridge community is having a genuine willingness and ability to:<br />
* Hear feedback on how your behavior is affecting others<br />
* Engage in productive/constructive dialog about the feedback<br />
* Change your behavior based on feedback<br />
<br />
That being said, you might not be welcome back. There are no guarantees. It depends on how badly you screwed up, and whether a core community participant that other people trust and respect is willing to vouch for you and work with you to help you understand and address other people's concerns.</div>Scottyhttps://www.noisebridge.net/index.php?title=How_we_keep_Noisebridge_safe&diff=54387How we keep Noisebridge safe2016-10-06T09:03:53Z<p>Scotty: /* DRAFT - How we keep a healthy, safe Noisebridge community */ Update to intro</p>
<hr />
<div>= DRAFT - How we keep a healthy, safe Noisebridge community = <br />
<br />
This is a very rough draft of something I've been working on on and off for a while in an attempt to try and communicate to newer people in our community how our no-process tools and patterns work around dealing with issues in the space, without actually defining a formal process. Comments and suggestions welcome.<br />
<br />
Noisebridge has learned a lot in the past few years about how to keep our community healthy and safe. We've tried a lot of things that didn't work, and in the process, found a few that did. This is an attempt to catalog some of the things we've learned, both to help pass on our learnings to newer community members as well as to share with other communities that may benefit from our past.<br />
<br />
Noisebridge is a very unique community in many ways. We want to be able to have nice things, and a space that everyone feels safe and comfortable to hack, learn, and teach in. But we also want to be radically inclusive and as open as possible. This is sometimes in conflict with our surrounding neighborhood and the culture we live in. Because of this, we've had to learn new tools and approaches to problems that other communities either don't have, or solve in different ways that wouldn't work for us.<br />
<br />
Here are some of the components of maintaining a safe, healthy space and community at Noisebridge:<br />
* Progressive vetting: access card levels, slack access, membership<br />
* Ongoing discussion and spreading the culture around how we maintain a safe, healthy, welcome space and community.<br />
* Always greeting people at the door, filtering who comes in and giving newcomers tours, and training people how to do this.<br />
* Closing the space at night when the last philanthropist or member leaves, or at 11pm if people no longer want to be responsible for keeping the space open.<br />
* Actively talking about people that exhibit red flags, even before it reaches critical mass in person and/or on the #space-guardians slack channel.<br />
* Empowering individuals to do-ocratically ask people to leave and/or not come back<br />
* Reciprocal safe space bans with other bay area hackerspaces<br />
* Maintaining the 86 page on the wiki with photos and descriptions of people that are not welcome at noisebridge<br />
* Our [[Anti-Harassment Policy]]<br />
* TODO: more antiharrassment stuff here<br />
<br />
== Progressive vetting ==<br />
<br />
We like to gradually get to know new people to the community before we trust them with the keys to the kingdom.<br />
<br />
Here's a couple ways we do that:<br />
<br />
=== RFID access cards ===<br />
<br />
We use RFID cards to open the downstairs gate/upstair door at noisebridge, both to let ourselves in from outside, and to let others in from inside the space.<br />
<br />
These are the different access levels for door access:<br />
* Doorbell: When you first come to Noisebridge, you can ring the doorbell, and if there's someone in the space with an RFID who has time to show you around, they'll let you in. Everyone is welcome to ring the doorbell any time!<br />
* Temporary daylight access: Once you've been to Noisebridge a few times and get to know a few people, you can ask any member to give you temporary 30-day anonymous access during daylight hours (11am-10pm).<br />
* Permanent daylight access: Once you've gotten to know the community a bit better, you can ask a member to have your name/email address associated with your RFID card. This makes your card no longer anonymous (so we can remove your access if you screw up), but will never expire.<br />
* 24/7 access: [[Philanthropist]] and [[Member]] have full time access. Here's more information about how to become a member/philanthropist: (TODO).<br />
<br />
=== Slack ===<br />
<br />
We have public [[Mailing lists]] and an [[IRC|irc channel]] that anyone can join. However, we have a slack community we use heavily for discussion within the community. It's really high signal-to-noise, and very low on trolls and sock puppets. We try and keep it that way by only inviting people to Slack once they've been hanging out in the space for a while, and we've gotten to know them.<br />
<br />
=== Philanthropists ===<br />
<br />
Philanthropists have 24x7 access to the space, and as such, may potentially be by themselves either late at night or early in the morning, or may be sponsoring other non-philanthropist/non-members in the space later at night. As such, we want to make sure we trust them to treat the space excellently, and make sure they know how to greet people at the door, how to give a tour, and how to close up the space at night if they're the last person in the space. See [[Philanthropist]] for more info<br />
<br />
=== Membership ===<br />
<br />
Members have the ability to single-handedly block our [[Consensus|Consensus process]]. Thus, we really want to get to know someone before they become a member. Generally, we suggest that people don't apply to be a member until they've been active in the community for at least 6 months. There's lots more info about the [[Member|membership process]] on the wiki.<br />
<br />
== Ongoing discussion ==<br />
<br />
Oh my god, are we having THAT discussion again? Yes, yes we are.<br />
<br />
We mostly spread culture at Noisebridge through talking about it. This happens pretty readily with topics hackers generally love, like the one true text editor (hint: it's vim), but less readily with topics hackers like less, like how to handle interpersonal conflict. We've learned a lot about how to keep our community healthy over the lifetime of Noisebridge, and we share that knowledge by continually talking about it. This means we often have the same ongoing conversations, particularly with newer community members, about how we greet people, what we consider acceptable behavior, and how we deal with problems when they come up.<br />
<br />
== How we handle people causing problems at Noisebridge ==<br />
<br />
Participation in Noisebridge is a privilege, not a right. The health of the Noisebridge community comes first and foremost. Everything else is built on that. There's a balance between being fair and attempting restorative justice, and preserving the precious energy of core community members.<br />
<br />
Repeat after me: '''there is no process.'''<br />
<br />
Here are a few reasons why:<br />
* Formal process is too easily gamed.<br />
* Formal process that requires putting the same amount of energy into all situations burns out core community members.<br />
* Most people come to Noisebridge to hack, not to deal with curating the community. Not having a formal process limits drama to those involved and those willing and interested in dealing with it.<br />
<br />
Channels for dealing with people that are causing problems in the community may include (but not necessarily):<br />
* In person 1:1 discussion between community members<br />
* Conversations with the problematic person<br />
* Discussion on the #space-guardians<br />
* Out of band slack discussion (often used for sensitive issues)<br />
* In person group discussions<br />
<br />
Remedies:<br />
* Anyone can ask someone to leave<br />
* Anyone can ask someone to leave and not come back<br />
* Informal consensus amount frequent community participants can lead to:<br />
* being asked to leave<br />
an informal ban<br />
* being added to the 86 page<br />
* re-including someone back into the community who was previously asked to leave<br />
<br />
Some things we used to do that we don't do anymore:<br />
* Ask people that have been asked to leave to come to the next Tuesday meeting. This frequently turns the Tuesday meetings into a giant drama-fest, which drives away new community members, burns out existing community members, and makes people not to want to come to the meetings anymore.<br />
* Have a formal banning/appeals process. Having a formal process assumes that there's a single one-size-fits all process to handle all situations, which we've learned simply doesn't exist. Each situation needs to be handled separately, in the context of both the situation itself, and the current state of the rest of the community. In addition, having a formal rigid process gives an opportunity for those not welcome in the community to game the system and/or drag out the process, exhausting any community members will to engage in the process, which eventually leads to burn out.<br />
* Guarantee the same level of due process for everyone, regardless of the situation. As a fully volunteer run community, our time and energy is incredibly scarce and precious. Not all situations deserve the same level of investment.<br />
* Involve people who don't want to be involved with safe space issues. If you don't want to deal with drama in the space, you don't have to. You don't have to answer the door, nor do you have to be subscribed to #space-guardians on slack. If you just want to shut up and hack, you're encouraged to do so. By keeping safe space issues and interpersonal drama out of the weekly Tuesday meeting and off the noisebridge-discuss mailing list, we allow each person in the community to make this choice for themselves.<br />
* Mediation by default/demand - We only do it if it's likely to succeed and everyone involved wants to do it.<br />
<br />
== Red Flags ==<br />
<br />
Red flags are small signs that someone might be doing or going to try and do something that hurts the Noisebridge community. Seeing one warning sign is a reason for concern, but not a problem in and of itself. We talk about red flags when we see them to figure out if there's a larger pattern of behavior that no one person is seeing. Ie, someone found someone asleep on the couch, but didn't think too much of it. They mention it, and find out that three other people have woken the same person up, and a fourth person saw them stashing clothes in the wood shop. Now there's a much different story, which makes it pretty clear that this person doesn't belong at Noisebridge.<br />
<br />
Red flags include, but are not limited to:<br />
* Name dropping to invoke privilege. Particularly if that person is Mitch, "the owner", or "the people in charge".<br />
* Bolting passed the person opening the door for them and heading for the back of the space<br />
* Immediately heading to a hidey-hole - a dark, unpopulated corner of the space<br />
* Immediately rummaging through things after coming in. Either in the hack shelves, or elsewhere in the space.<br />
* Demanding help/attention when first coming in to the space (ie, fix my laptop/phone)<br />
* Lying<br />
* Giving people a hard time when someone questions their behavior or asks them to leave.<br />
* Only taking from the space - this mean direct theft of tools/hack shelf contents/laptops/materials/etc, or simply taking energy out of the space, by ie, sleeping, constantly complaining, etc.<br />
* Only giving to the space - this is also known as the Savior/Martyr pattern (see below).<br />
* Only using the Noisebridge kitchen/internet/couches<br />
* Ringing the doorbell late at night<br />
* Storing personal items/clothing at Noisebridge, particularly in out-of-sight places<br />
* Not making sense - racing thoughts, paranoia, etc<br />
* Immediately asking about the 24 hour access policy<br />
* Showing a sense of entitlement - an attitude that Noisebridge exists solely for their benefit<br />
* Gets argumentative quickly vs discussing when things don't go their way<br />
* Argues about how Noisebridge should be when brand new to the community<br />
* Sleeps in the space<br />
* Shows up drunk/high<br />
* Immediately tells you "I've been coming here for years."<br />
* Invokes anarchism as a reason why they can do whatever they want and don't have to listen to anyone else.<br />
* Reacts poorly when people introduce themselves or want to chat.<br />
<br />
The Savior/Martyr pattern:<br />
* Shows up at Noisebridge incredibly enthusiastic to "Make Noisebridge Better!"<br />
* Starts jumping into working on the Noisebridge infrastructure in lots of ways<br />
* Makes lots of suggestions for what Noisebridge is doing wrong and how to improve it without getting to know the community first<br />
* Doesn't explore or do any of their own projects<br />
* Doesn't make use of the Noisebridge classes/workshops/other resources<br />
* Develops a sense of propriety at Noisebridge - they are SAVING Noisebridge by making a huge personal sacrifice<br />
* Gets frustrated when they aren't in complete control, or resents that people don't recognize them enough for their sacrifice<br />
* Ends up rub people the wrong way<br />
* Doesn't change their behavior when people give them feedback<br />
* Eventually gets unwelcomed or banned in a spectacular explosion<br />
Often people that exhibit this pattern start out as very good contributors to the space, and are often well liked within the community. But it has always led to badness, often extreme, when people only contribute to, and don't benefit from the community.<br />
<br />
Shit that might feel unfair:<br />
* Some people's opinion carries more weight than others.<br />
* Not all conversations, particularly about safe space issues, happen in public forums. Sometimes there will be conversations you're not privvy to.<br />
* Not everyone is guaranteed the same level of due process.<br />
* Not everyone who fucks up in the space will get the same level of attention.<br />
<br />
== Someone asked me to leave. What should I do? ==<br />
<br />
(I'm not sure we have a good answer for this one yet. But I think this is the best answer I have right now.)<br />
<br />
Wow, sounds like you probably fucked up pretty bad. Noisebridge does not often ask someone to leave without a lot of discussion and consensus beforehand. You should leave without arguing. Now is not the time to make a stand. Refusing to leave or arguing about leaving significantly hurts your chances of ever being allowed back. Once you've left, reflect on why you were asked to leave.<br />
<br />
The starting point for resolving problems within the Noisebridge community is having a genuine willingness and ability to:<br />
* Hear feedback on how your behavior is affecting others<br />
* Engage in productive/constructive dialog about the feedback<br />
* Change your behavior based on feedback<br />
<br />
That being said, you might not be welcome back. There are no guarantees. It depends on how badly you screwed up, and whether a core community participant that other people trust and respect is willing to vouch for you and work with you to help you understand and address other people's concerns.</div>Scottyhttps://www.noisebridge.net/index.php?title=How_we_keep_Noisebridge_safe&diff=54386How we keep Noisebridge safe2016-10-06T08:59:02Z<p>Scotty: /* Red Flags */ Tweaks to Savior/Martyr pattern</p>
<hr />
<div>= DRAFT - How we keep a healthy, safe Noisebridge community = <br />
<br />
This is a very rough draft of something I've been working on for a few weeks as an attempt to try and communicate to newer people in our community how our no-process tools and patterns work around dealing with issues in the space, without actually defining a formal process. Comments and suggestions welcome.<br />
<br />
Noisebridge has learned a lot in the past few years about how to keep our community healthy and safe. We've tried a lot of things that didn't work, and in the process, found a few that did. This is an attempt to catalog some of the things we've learned, both to help pass on our learnings to newer community members as well as to share with other communities that may benefit from our past.<br />
<br />
Noisebridge is a very unique community in many ways. We want to be able to have nice things, and a space that everyone feels safe and comfortable to hack, learn, and teach in. But we also want to be radically inclusive and as open as possible. This is sometimes in conflict with our surrounding neighborhood and the culture we live in. Because of this, we've had to learn new tools and approaches to problems that other communities either don't have, or solve in different ways that wouldn't work for us.<br />
<br />
Here are some of the components of maintaining a safe, healthy space and community at Noisebridge:<br />
* Progressive vetting: access card levels, slack access, membership<br />
* Ongoing discussion and spreading the culture around how we maintain a safe, healthy, welcome space and community.<br />
* Always greeting people at the door, filtering who comes in and giving newcomers tours, and training people how to do this.<br />
* Closing the space at night when the last philanthropist or member leaves, or at 11pm if people no longer want to be responsible for keeping the space open.<br />
* Actively talking about people that exhibit red flags, even before it reaches critical mass in person and/or on the #space-guardians slack channel.<br />
* Empowering individuals to do-ocratically ask people to leave and/or not come back<br />
* Reciprocal safe space bans with other bay area hackerspaces<br />
* Maintaining the 86 page on the wiki with photos and descriptions of people that are not welcome at noisebridge<br />
* Our [[Anti-Harassment Policy]]<br />
* TODO: more antiharrassment stuff here<br />
<br />
== Progressive vetting ==<br />
<br />
We like to gradually get to know new people to the community before we trust them with the keys to the kingdom.<br />
<br />
Here's a couple ways we do that:<br />
<br />
=== RFID access cards ===<br />
<br />
We use RFID cards to open the downstairs gate/upstair door at noisebridge, both to let ourselves in from outside, and to let others in from inside the space.<br />
<br />
These are the different access levels for door access:<br />
* Doorbell: When you first come to Noisebridge, you can ring the doorbell, and if there's someone in the space with an RFID who has time to show you around, they'll let you in. Everyone is welcome to ring the doorbell any time!<br />
* Temporary daylight access: Once you've been to Noisebridge a few times and get to know a few people, you can ask any member to give you temporary 30-day anonymous access during daylight hours (11am-10pm).<br />
* Permanent daylight access: Once you've gotten to know the community a bit better, you can ask a member to have your name/email address associated with your RFID card. This makes your card no longer anonymous (so we can remove your access if you screw up), but will never expire.<br />
* 24/7 access: [[Philanthropist]] and [[Member]] have full time access. Here's more information about how to become a member/philanthropist: (TODO).<br />
<br />
=== Slack ===<br />
<br />
We have public [[Mailing lists]] and an [[IRC|irc channel]] that anyone can join. However, we have a slack community we use heavily for discussion within the community. It's really high signal-to-noise, and very low on trolls and sock puppets. We try and keep it that way by only inviting people to Slack once they've been hanging out in the space for a while, and we've gotten to know them.<br />
<br />
=== Philanthropists ===<br />
<br />
Philanthropists have 24x7 access to the space, and as such, may potentially be by themselves either late at night or early in the morning, or may be sponsoring other non-philanthropist/non-members in the space later at night. As such, we want to make sure we trust them to treat the space excellently, and make sure they know how to greet people at the door, how to give a tour, and how to close up the space at night if they're the last person in the space. See [[Philanthropist]] for more info<br />
<br />
=== Membership ===<br />
<br />
Members have the ability to single-handedly block our [[Consensus|Consensus process]]. Thus, we really want to get to know someone before they become a member. Generally, we suggest that people don't apply to be a member until they've been active in the community for at least 6 months. There's lots more info about the [[Member|membership process]] on the wiki.<br />
<br />
== Ongoing discussion ==<br />
<br />
Oh my god, are we having THAT discussion again? Yes, yes we are.<br />
<br />
We mostly spread culture at Noisebridge through talking about it. This happens pretty readily with topics hackers generally love, like the one true text editor (hint: it's vim), but less readily with topics hackers like less, like how to handle interpersonal conflict. We've learned a lot about how to keep our community healthy over the lifetime of Noisebridge, and we share that knowledge by continually talking about it. This means we often have the same ongoing conversations, particularly with newer community members, about how we greet people, what we consider acceptable behavior, and how we deal with problems when they come up.<br />
<br />
== How we handle people causing problems at Noisebridge ==<br />
<br />
Participation in Noisebridge is a privilege, not a right. The health of the Noisebridge community comes first and foremost. Everything else is built on that. There's a balance between being fair and attempting restorative justice, and preserving the precious energy of core community members.<br />
<br />
Repeat after me: '''there is no process.'''<br />
<br />
Here are a few reasons why:<br />
* Formal process is too easily gamed.<br />
* Formal process that requires putting the same amount of energy into all situations burns out core community members.<br />
* Most people come to Noisebridge to hack, not to deal with curating the community. Not having a formal process limits drama to those involved and those willing and interested in dealing with it.<br />
<br />
Channels for dealing with people that are causing problems in the community may include (but not necessarily):<br />
* In person 1:1 discussion between community members<br />
* Conversations with the problematic person<br />
* Discussion on the #space-guardians<br />
* Out of band slack discussion (often used for sensitive issues)<br />
* In person group discussions<br />
<br />
Remedies:<br />
* Anyone can ask someone to leave<br />
* Anyone can ask someone to leave and not come back<br />
* Informal consensus amount frequent community participants can lead to:<br />
* being asked to leave<br />
an informal ban<br />
* being added to the 86 page<br />
* re-including someone back into the community who was previously asked to leave<br />
<br />
Some things we used to do that we don't do anymore:<br />
* Ask people that have been asked to leave to come to the next Tuesday meeting. This frequently turns the Tuesday meetings into a giant drama-fest, which drives away new community members, burns out existing community members, and makes people not to want to come to the meetings anymore.<br />
* Have a formal banning/appeals process. Having a formal process assumes that there's a single one-size-fits all process to handle all situations, which we've learned simply doesn't exist. Each situation needs to be handled separately, in the context of both the situation itself, and the current state of the rest of the community. In addition, having a formal rigid process gives an opportunity for those not welcome in the community to game the system and/or drag out the process, exhausting any community members will to engage in the process, which eventually leads to burn out.<br />
* Guarantee the same level of due process for everyone, regardless of the situation. As a fully volunteer run community, our time and energy is incredibly scarce and precious. Not all situations deserve the same level of investment.<br />
* Involve people who don't want to be involved with safe space issues. If you don't want to deal with drama in the space, you don't have to. You don't have to answer the door, nor do you have to be subscribed to #space-guardians on slack. If you just want to shut up and hack, you're encouraged to do so. By keeping safe space issues and interpersonal drama out of the weekly Tuesday meeting and off the noisebridge-discuss mailing list, we allow each person in the community to make this choice for themselves.<br />
* Mediation by default/demand - We only do it if it's likely to succeed and everyone involved wants to do it.<br />
<br />
== Red Flags ==<br />
<br />
Red flags are small signs that someone might be doing or going to try and do something that hurts the Noisebridge community. Seeing one warning sign is a reason for concern, but not a problem in and of itself. We talk about red flags when we see them to figure out if there's a larger pattern of behavior that no one person is seeing. Ie, someone found someone asleep on the couch, but didn't think too much of it. They mention it, and find out that three other people have woken the same person up, and a fourth person saw them stashing clothes in the wood shop. Now there's a much different story, which makes it pretty clear that this person doesn't belong at Noisebridge.<br />
<br />
Red flags include, but are not limited to:<br />
* Name dropping to invoke privilege. Particularly if that person is Mitch, "the owner", or "the people in charge".<br />
* Bolting passed the person opening the door for them and heading for the back of the space<br />
* Immediately heading to a hidey-hole - a dark, unpopulated corner of the space<br />
* Immediately rummaging through things after coming in. Either in the hack shelves, or elsewhere in the space.<br />
* Demanding help/attention when first coming in to the space (ie, fix my laptop/phone)<br />
* Lying<br />
* Giving people a hard time when someone questions their behavior or asks them to leave.<br />
* Only taking from the space - this mean direct theft of tools/hack shelf contents/laptops/materials/etc, or simply taking energy out of the space, by ie, sleeping, constantly complaining, etc.<br />
* Only giving to the space - this is also known as the Savior/Martyr pattern (see below).<br />
* Only using the Noisebridge kitchen/internet/couches<br />
* Ringing the doorbell late at night<br />
* Storing personal items/clothing at Noisebridge, particularly in out-of-sight places<br />
* Not making sense - racing thoughts, paranoia, etc<br />
* Immediately asking about the 24 hour access policy<br />
* Showing a sense of entitlement - an attitude that Noisebridge exists solely for their benefit<br />
* Gets argumentative quickly vs discussing when things don't go their way<br />
* Argues about how Noisebridge should be when brand new to the community<br />
* Sleeps in the space<br />
* Shows up drunk/high<br />
* Immediately tells you "I've been coming here for years."<br />
* Invokes anarchism as a reason why they can do whatever they want and don't have to listen to anyone else.<br />
* Reacts poorly when people introduce themselves or want to chat.<br />
<br />
The Savior/Martyr pattern:<br />
* Shows up at Noisebridge incredibly enthusiastic to "Make Noisebridge Better!"<br />
* Starts jumping into working on the Noisebridge infrastructure in lots of ways<br />
* Makes lots of suggestions for what Noisebridge is doing wrong and how to improve it without getting to know the community first<br />
* Doesn't explore or do any of their own projects<br />
* Doesn't make use of the Noisebridge classes/workshops/other resources<br />
* Develops a sense of propriety at Noisebridge - they are SAVING Noisebridge by making a huge personal sacrifice<br />
* Gets frustrated when they aren't in complete control, or resents that people don't recognize them enough for their sacrifice<br />
* Ends up rub people the wrong way<br />
* Doesn't change their behavior when people give them feedback<br />
* Eventually gets unwelcomed or banned in a spectacular explosion<br />
Often people that exhibit this pattern start out as very good contributors to the space, and are often well liked within the community. But it has always led to badness, often extreme, when people only contribute to, and don't benefit from the community.<br />
<br />
Shit that might feel unfair:<br />
* Some people's opinion carries more weight than others.<br />
* Not all conversations, particularly about safe space issues, happen in public forums. Sometimes there will be conversations you're not privvy to.<br />
* Not everyone is guaranteed the same level of due process.<br />
* Not everyone who fucks up in the space will get the same level of attention.<br />
<br />
== Someone asked me to leave. What should I do? ==<br />
<br />
(I'm not sure we have a good answer for this one yet. But I think this is the best answer I have right now.)<br />
<br />
Wow, sounds like you probably fucked up pretty bad. Noisebridge does not often ask someone to leave without a lot of discussion and consensus beforehand. You should leave without arguing. Now is not the time to make a stand. Refusing to leave or arguing about leaving significantly hurts your chances of ever being allowed back. Once you've left, reflect on why you were asked to leave.<br />
<br />
The starting point for resolving problems within the Noisebridge community is having a genuine willingness and ability to:<br />
* Hear feedback on how your behavior is affecting others<br />
* Engage in productive/constructive dialog about the feedback<br />
* Change your behavior based on feedback<br />
<br />
That being said, you might not be welcome back. There are no guarantees. It depends on how badly you screwed up, and whether a core community participant that other people trust and respect is willing to vouch for you and work with you to help you understand and address other people's concerns.</div>Scottyhttps://www.noisebridge.net/index.php?title=How_we_keep_Noisebridge_safe&diff=54385How we keep Noisebridge safe2016-10-06T08:54:59Z<p>Scotty: /* Red Flags */ Changed RAYC pattern to Savior/Martyr pattern</p>
<hr />
<div>= DRAFT - How we keep a healthy, safe Noisebridge community = <br />
<br />
This is a very rough draft of something I've been working on for a few weeks as an attempt to try and communicate to newer people in our community how our no-process tools and patterns work around dealing with issues in the space, without actually defining a formal process. Comments and suggestions welcome.<br />
<br />
Noisebridge has learned a lot in the past few years about how to keep our community healthy and safe. We've tried a lot of things that didn't work, and in the process, found a few that did. This is an attempt to catalog some of the things we've learned, both to help pass on our learnings to newer community members as well as to share with other communities that may benefit from our past.<br />
<br />
Noisebridge is a very unique community in many ways. We want to be able to have nice things, and a space that everyone feels safe and comfortable to hack, learn, and teach in. But we also want to be radically inclusive and as open as possible. This is sometimes in conflict with our surrounding neighborhood and the culture we live in. Because of this, we've had to learn new tools and approaches to problems that other communities either don't have, or solve in different ways that wouldn't work for us.<br />
<br />
Here are some of the components of maintaining a safe, healthy space and community at Noisebridge:<br />
* Progressive vetting: access card levels, slack access, membership<br />
* Ongoing discussion and spreading the culture around how we maintain a safe, healthy, welcome space and community.<br />
* Always greeting people at the door, filtering who comes in and giving newcomers tours, and training people how to do this.<br />
* Closing the space at night when the last philanthropist or member leaves, or at 11pm if people no longer want to be responsible for keeping the space open.<br />
* Actively talking about people that exhibit red flags, even before it reaches critical mass in person and/or on the #space-guardians slack channel.<br />
* Empowering individuals to do-ocratically ask people to leave and/or not come back<br />
* Reciprocal safe space bans with other bay area hackerspaces<br />
* Maintaining the 86 page on the wiki with photos and descriptions of people that are not welcome at noisebridge<br />
* Our [[Anti-Harassment Policy]]<br />
* TODO: more antiharrassment stuff here<br />
<br />
== Progressive vetting ==<br />
<br />
We like to gradually get to know new people to the community before we trust them with the keys to the kingdom.<br />
<br />
Here's a couple ways we do that:<br />
<br />
=== RFID access cards ===<br />
<br />
We use RFID cards to open the downstairs gate/upstair door at noisebridge, both to let ourselves in from outside, and to let others in from inside the space.<br />
<br />
These are the different access levels for door access:<br />
* Doorbell: When you first come to Noisebridge, you can ring the doorbell, and if there's someone in the space with an RFID who has time to show you around, they'll let you in. Everyone is welcome to ring the doorbell any time!<br />
* Temporary daylight access: Once you've been to Noisebridge a few times and get to know a few people, you can ask any member to give you temporary 30-day anonymous access during daylight hours (11am-10pm).<br />
* Permanent daylight access: Once you've gotten to know the community a bit better, you can ask a member to have your name/email address associated with your RFID card. This makes your card no longer anonymous (so we can remove your access if you screw up), but will never expire.<br />
* 24/7 access: [[Philanthropist]] and [[Member]] have full time access. Here's more information about how to become a member/philanthropist: (TODO).<br />
<br />
=== Slack ===<br />
<br />
We have public [[Mailing lists]] and an [[IRC|irc channel]] that anyone can join. However, we have a slack community we use heavily for discussion within the community. It's really high signal-to-noise, and very low on trolls and sock puppets. We try and keep it that way by only inviting people to Slack once they've been hanging out in the space for a while, and we've gotten to know them.<br />
<br />
=== Philanthropists ===<br />
<br />
Philanthropists have 24x7 access to the space, and as such, may potentially be by themselves either late at night or early in the morning, or may be sponsoring other non-philanthropist/non-members in the space later at night. As such, we want to make sure we trust them to treat the space excellently, and make sure they know how to greet people at the door, how to give a tour, and how to close up the space at night if they're the last person in the space. See [[Philanthropist]] for more info<br />
<br />
=== Membership ===<br />
<br />
Members have the ability to single-handedly block our [[Consensus|Consensus process]]. Thus, we really want to get to know someone before they become a member. Generally, we suggest that people don't apply to be a member until they've been active in the community for at least 6 months. There's lots more info about the [[Member|membership process]] on the wiki.<br />
<br />
== Ongoing discussion ==<br />
<br />
Oh my god, are we having THAT discussion again? Yes, yes we are.<br />
<br />
We mostly spread culture at Noisebridge through talking about it. This happens pretty readily with topics hackers generally love, like the one true text editor (hint: it's vim), but less readily with topics hackers like less, like how to handle interpersonal conflict. We've learned a lot about how to keep our community healthy over the lifetime of Noisebridge, and we share that knowledge by continually talking about it. This means we often have the same ongoing conversations, particularly with newer community members, about how we greet people, what we consider acceptable behavior, and how we deal with problems when they come up.<br />
<br />
== How we handle people causing problems at Noisebridge ==<br />
<br />
Participation in Noisebridge is a privilege, not a right. The health of the Noisebridge community comes first and foremost. Everything else is built on that. There's a balance between being fair and attempting restorative justice, and preserving the precious energy of core community members.<br />
<br />
Repeat after me: '''there is no process.'''<br />
<br />
Here are a few reasons why:<br />
* Formal process is too easily gamed.<br />
* Formal process that requires putting the same amount of energy into all situations burns out core community members.<br />
* Most people come to Noisebridge to hack, not to deal with curating the community. Not having a formal process limits drama to those involved and those willing and interested in dealing with it.<br />
<br />
Channels for dealing with people that are causing problems in the community may include (but not necessarily):<br />
* In person 1:1 discussion between community members<br />
* Conversations with the problematic person<br />
* Discussion on the #space-guardians<br />
* Out of band slack discussion (often used for sensitive issues)<br />
* In person group discussions<br />
<br />
Remedies:<br />
* Anyone can ask someone to leave<br />
* Anyone can ask someone to leave and not come back<br />
* Informal consensus amount frequent community participants can lead to:<br />
* being asked to leave<br />
an informal ban<br />
* being added to the 86 page<br />
* re-including someone back into the community who was previously asked to leave<br />
<br />
Some things we used to do that we don't do anymore:<br />
* Ask people that have been asked to leave to come to the next Tuesday meeting. This frequently turns the Tuesday meetings into a giant drama-fest, which drives away new community members, burns out existing community members, and makes people not to want to come to the meetings anymore.<br />
* Have a formal banning/appeals process. Having a formal process assumes that there's a single one-size-fits all process to handle all situations, which we've learned simply doesn't exist. Each situation needs to be handled separately, in the context of both the situation itself, and the current state of the rest of the community. In addition, having a formal rigid process gives an opportunity for those not welcome in the community to game the system and/or drag out the process, exhausting any community members will to engage in the process, which eventually leads to burn out.<br />
* Guarantee the same level of due process for everyone, regardless of the situation. As a fully volunteer run community, our time and energy is incredibly scarce and precious. Not all situations deserve the same level of investment.<br />
* Involve people who don't want to be involved with safe space issues. If you don't want to deal with drama in the space, you don't have to. You don't have to answer the door, nor do you have to be subscribed to #space-guardians on slack. If you just want to shut up and hack, you're encouraged to do so. By keeping safe space issues and interpersonal drama out of the weekly Tuesday meeting and off the noisebridge-discuss mailing list, we allow each person in the community to make this choice for themselves.<br />
* Mediation by default/demand - We only do it if it's likely to succeed and everyone involved wants to do it.<br />
<br />
== Red Flags ==<br />
<br />
Red flags are small signs that someone might be doing or going to try and do something that hurts the Noisebridge community. Seeing one warning sign is a reason for concern, but not a problem in and of itself. We talk about red flags when we see them to figure out if there's a larger pattern of behavior that no one person is seeing. Ie, someone found someone asleep on the couch, but didn't think too much of it. They mention it, and find out that three other people have woken the same person up, and a fourth person saw them stashing clothes in the wood shop. Now there's a much different story, which makes it pretty clear that this person doesn't belong at Noisebridge.<br />
<br />
Red flags include, but are not limited to:<br />
* Name dropping to invoke privilege. Particularly if that person is Mitch, "the owner", or "the people in charge".<br />
* Bolting passed the person opening the door for them and heading for the back of the space<br />
* Immediately heading to a hidey-hole - a dark, unpopulated corner of the space<br />
* Immediately rummaging through things after coming in. Either in the hack shelves, or elsewhere in the space.<br />
* Demanding help/attention when first coming in to the space (ie, fix my laptop/phone)<br />
* Lying<br />
* Giving people a hard time when someone questions their behavior or asks them to leave.<br />
* Only taking from the space - this mean direct theft of tools/hack shelf contents/laptops/materials/etc, or simply taking energy out of the space, by ie, sleeping, constantly complaining, etc.<br />
* Only giving to the space - this is also known as the Savior/Martyr pattern (see below).<br />
* Only using the Noisebridge kitchen/internet/couches<br />
* Ringing the doorbell late at night<br />
* Storing personal items/clothing at Noisebridge, particularly in out-of-sight places<br />
* Not making sense - racing thoughts, paranoia, etc<br />
* Immediately asking about the 24 hour access policy<br />
* Showing a sense of entitlement - an attitude that Noisebridge exists solely for their benefit<br />
* Gets argumentative quickly vs discussing when things don't go their way<br />
* Argues about how Noisebridge should be when brand new to the community<br />
* Sleeps in the space<br />
* Shows up drunk/high<br />
* Immediately tells you "I've been coming here for years."<br />
* Invokes anarchism as a reason why they can do whatever they want and don't have to listen to anyone else.<br />
* Reacts poorly when people introduce themselves or want to chat.<br />
<br />
The Savior/Martyr pattern:<br />
Shows up at Noisebridge incredibly enthusiastic to "Make Noisebridge Better!"<br />
Starts jumping into working on the Noisebridge infrastructure in lots of ways<br />
Makes lots of suggestions for what Noisebridge is doing wrong and how to improve it without getting to know the community first<br />
Doesn't explore or do any of their own projects<br />
Doesn't make use of the Noisebridge classes/workshops/other resources<br />
Develops a sense of propriety at Noisebridge - they are SAVING Noisebridge by making a huge personal sacrifice<br />
Gets frustrated when they aren't in complete control and subsequently rub people the wrong way<br />
Doesn't change their behavior when people give them feedback<br />
Eventually gets unwelcomed or banned in a spectacular explosion<br />
Often people that exhibit this pattern start out as very good contributors to the space, and are often well liked within the community. But it has always led to badness, often extreme, when people only contribute to, and don't benefit from the community.<br />
<br />
Shit that might feel unfair:<br />
* Some people's opinion carries more weight than others.<br />
* Not all conversations, particularly about safe space issues, happen in public forums. Sometimes there will be conversations you're not privvy to.<br />
* Not everyone is guaranteed the same level of due process.<br />
* Not everyone who fucks up in the space will get the same level of attention.<br />
<br />
== Someone asked me to leave. What should I do? ==<br />
<br />
(I'm not sure we have a good answer for this one yet. But I think this is the best answer I have right now.)<br />
<br />
Wow, sounds like you probably fucked up pretty bad. Noisebridge does not often ask someone to leave without a lot of discussion and consensus beforehand. You should leave without arguing. Now is not the time to make a stand. Refusing to leave or arguing about leaving significantly hurts your chances of ever being allowed back. Once you've left, reflect on why you were asked to leave.<br />
<br />
The starting point for resolving problems within the Noisebridge community is having a genuine willingness and ability to:<br />
* Hear feedback on how your behavior is affecting others<br />
* Engage in productive/constructive dialog about the feedback<br />
* Change your behavior based on feedback<br />
<br />
That being said, you might not be welcome back. There are no guarantees. It depends on how badly you screwed up, and whether a core community participant that other people trust and respect is willing to vouch for you and work with you to help you understand and address other people's concerns.</div>Scottyhttps://www.noisebridge.net/index.php?title=User:Patrickod&diff=54384User:Patrickod2016-10-06T08:49:08Z<p>Scotty: Undo revision 54382 by 185.38.14.215 (talk) reverted spam</p>
<hr />
<div><br />
Software engineer by day with an interest in making more physical things. Interested in software, cryptography, security, 3D printing, electronics.<br />
<br />
== Contact Information ==<br />
<br />
-----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----<br />
Hash: SHA256<br />
<br />
Name: Patrick O'Doherty<br />
<br />
Twitter: @patrickod<br />
<br />
GitHub: @patrickod<br />
<br />
Website: https://patrickod.com<br />
<br />
IRC: patrickod, pod<br />
<br />
Email: p@trickod.com<br />
<br />
Jabber: patrickod@patrickod.com<br />
patrickod@jabber.ccc.de<br />
<br />
Phone: 650-701-7829 <br />
<br />
Signal fingerprint:<br />
05 0b a6 36 e0 05 f1 0c ae<br />
77 6f 06 2e 8b 1e 82 e5 19<br />
aa 8e b5 83 d3 30 19 87 ee<br />
e0 39 c8 94 b1 2b<br />
<br />
GPG: F05E 232B 31FE 4222<br />
Fingerprint: E337 1C09 3FEB 6AF9 54D9 AA7A F05E 232B 31FE 4222<br />
Key URL: https://patrickod.com/~patrickod/gpg.key<br />
<br />
<br />
SSH Public Key<br />
ssh-rsa AAAAB3NzaC1yc2EAAAADAQABAAABAQDmijBAvAROow6YmmWJ5nUp2SzCjZVDW2lTad/o0mRSLZgdhhKadpTe6EGlcDWg3qzkDAvyU+sdTdEjzO9IGLq/zfz7YqDqmX227AAEHrDGfYl+w3qYhGw5gvQMVTQGjHJwMUD4BXJTrzt0q8GAGIAv7KklhHTKnRdtRNBuO85JOGs2hfqYh0Vh4ckeF+dmfHFs1bDSM9v2GVceB/r8SYF0jciSqSUU8xV34lpufUHDLUTCKqd0c4vRgZCyOPLyP3VLBSDhzg+tt0f2jzuGWbyycYDgeX14iMkWer1HmqG6hHK4rurSBzn2KTpiM0/lUDOSIj9ZWfuJoHifc+2evWsf patrickod@odysseus<br />
<br />
<br />
Alternatively you can fetch a list of my other public keys with the following<br />
<br />
curl https://github.com/patrickod.keys > ~patrickod/.ssh/authorized_keys<br />
-----BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE-----<br />
Version: GnuPG v2<br />
<br />
iQEbBAEBCAAGBQJWYLwkAAoJEDmK3FRpXKVGMcIH938fYE4YZFHWDugQmscZQWOq<br />
qhQIRSB7cIWtY9LyWOXH9vRuD8pZ5ZkxIjUFy50oUnyBirnpHyYugYY0EQUzNf32<br />
sW5WJrVka5jvC/aw26LVxbcp699Ps9AbhSqZvEq/v+Qzzgp4p/oKtGK5yWuRZSMO<br />
fJaGszsyTlhw7ohstuBk5oafcQoGBNWP59XgexvVC/mPgh7qCRZuaQ/7tK7Et1Qc<br />
2v0hNZ9Ka9mzTALPYS0reqzfXlz8Ghn5ShFyiaHuecNz4QgiKdahMU+w33PFMrFc<br />
jEtJ888uYsEcYs+bwyCUcOnawLkkql6g/majCks/GMr+7Q3uMYF3qewr5llp0A==<br />
=vNGK<br />
-----END PGP SIGNATURE-----<br />
<br />
== adduser block ==<br />
<br />
adduser --shell /bin/zsh --gecos "Patrick O'Doherty" patrickod<br />
<br />
[[Category:Members]]</div>Scottyhttps://www.noisebridge.net/index.php?title=User_talk:Scotty&diff=54383User talk:Scotty2016-10-06T08:48:25Z<p>Scotty: Blanked the page</p>
<hr />
<div></div>Scottyhttps://www.noisebridge.net/index.php?title=How_we_keep_Noisebridge_safe&diff=54334How we keep Noisebridge safe2016-10-04T16:25:17Z<p>Scotty: Created page with "= DRAFT - How we keep a healthy, safe Noisebridge community = This is a very rough draft of something I've been working on for a few weeks as an attempt to try and communica..."</p>
<hr />
<div>= DRAFT - How we keep a healthy, safe Noisebridge community = <br />
<br />
This is a very rough draft of something I've been working on for a few weeks as an attempt to try and communicate to newer people in our community how our no-process tools and patterns work around dealing with issues in the space, without actually defining a formal process. Comments and suggestions welcome.<br />
<br />
Noisebridge has learned a lot in the past few years about how to keep our community healthy and safe. We've tried a lot of things that didn't work, and in the process, found a few that did. This is an attempt to catalog some of the things we've learned, both to help pass on our learnings to newer community members as well as to share with other communities that may benefit from our past.<br />
<br />
Noisebridge is a very unique community in many ways. We want to be able to have nice things, and a space that everyone feels safe and comfortable to hack, learn, and teach in. But we also want to be radically inclusive and as open as possible. This is sometimes in conflict with our surrounding neighborhood and the culture we live in. Because of this, we've had to learn new tools and approaches to problems that other communities either don't have, or solve in different ways that wouldn't work for us.<br />
<br />
Here are some of the components of maintaining a safe, healthy space and community at Noisebridge:<br />
* Progressive vetting: access card levels, slack access, membership<br />
* Ongoing discussion and spreading the culture around how we maintain a safe, healthy, welcome space and community.<br />
* Always greeting people at the door, filtering who comes in and giving newcomers tours, and training people how to do this.<br />
* Closing the space at night when the last philanthropist or member leaves, or at 11pm if people no longer want to be responsible for keeping the space open.<br />
* Actively talking about people that exhibit red flags, even before it reaches critical mass in person and/or on the #space-guardians slack channel.<br />
* Empowering individuals to do-ocratically ask people to leave and/or not come back<br />
* Reciprocal safe space bans with other bay area hackerspaces<br />
* Maintaining the 86 page on the wiki with photos and descriptions of people that are not welcome at noisebridge<br />
* Our [[Anti-Harassment Policy]]<br />
* TODO: more antiharrassment stuff here<br />
<br />
== Progressive vetting ==<br />
<br />
We like to gradually get to know new people to the community before we trust them with the keys to the kingdom.<br />
<br />
Here's a couple ways we do that:<br />
<br />
=== RFID access cards ===<br />
<br />
We use RFID cards to open the downstairs gate/upstair door at noisebridge, both to let ourselves in from outside, and to let others in from inside the space.<br />
<br />
These are the different access levels for door access:<br />
* Doorbell: When you first come to Noisebridge, you can ring the doorbell, and if there's someone in the space with an RFID who has time to show you around, they'll let you in. Everyone is welcome to ring the doorbell any time!<br />
* Temporary daylight access: Once you've been to Noisebridge a few times and get to know a few people, you can ask any member to give you temporary 30-day anonymous access during daylight hours (11am-10pm).<br />
* Permanent daylight access: Once you've gotten to know the community a bit better, you can ask a member to have your name/email address associated with your RFID card. This makes your card no longer anonymous (so we can remove your access if you screw up), but will never expire.<br />
* 24/7 access: [[Philanthropist]] and [[Member]] have full time access. Here's more information about how to become a member/philanthropist: (TODO).<br />
<br />
=== Slack ===<br />
<br />
We have public [[Mailing lists]] and an [[IRC|irc channel]] that anyone can join. However, we have a slack community we use heavily for discussion within the community. It's really high signal-to-noise, and very low on trolls and sock puppets. We try and keep it that way by only inviting people to Slack once they've been hanging out in the space for a while, and we've gotten to know them.<br />
<br />
=== Philanthropists ===<br />
<br />
Philanthropists have 24x7 access to the space, and as such, may potentially be by themselves either late at night or early in the morning, or may be sponsoring other non-philanthropist/non-members in the space later at night. As such, we want to make sure we trust them to treat the space excellently, and make sure they know how to greet people at the door, how to give a tour, and how to close up the space at night if they're the last person in the space. See [[Philanthropist]] for more info<br />
<br />
=== Membership ===<br />
<br />
Members have the ability to single-handedly block our [[Consensus|Consensus process]]. Thus, we really want to get to know someone before they become a member. Generally, we suggest that people don't apply to be a member until they've been active in the community for at least 6 months. There's lots more info about the [[Member|membership process]] on the wiki.<br />
<br />
== Ongoing discussion ==<br />
<br />
Oh my god, are we having THAT discussion again? Yes, yes we are.<br />
<br />
We mostly spread culture at Noisebridge through talking about it. This happens pretty readily with topics hackers generally love, like the one true text editor (hint: it's vim), but less readily with topics hackers like less, like how to handle interpersonal conflict. We've learned a lot about how to keep our community healthy over the lifetime of Noisebridge, and we share that knowledge by continually talking about it. This means we often have the same ongoing conversations, particularly with newer community members, about how we greet people, what we consider acceptable behavior, and how we deal with problems when they come up.<br />
<br />
== How we handle people causing problems at Noisebridge ==<br />
<br />
Participation in Noisebridge is a privilege, not a right. The health of the Noisebridge community comes first and foremost. Everything else is built on that. There's a balance between being fair and attempting restorative justice, and preserving the precious energy of core community members.<br />
<br />
Repeat after me: '''there is no process.'''<br />
<br />
Here are a few reasons why:<br />
* Formal process is too easily gamed.<br />
* Formal process that requires putting the same amount of energy into all situations burns out core community members.<br />
* Most people come to Noisebridge to hack, not to deal with curating the community. Not having a formal process limits drama to those involved and those willing and interested in dealing with it.<br />
<br />
Channels for dealing with people that are causing problems in the community may include (but not necessarily):<br />
* In person 1:1 discussion between community members<br />
* Conversations with the problematic person<br />
* Discussion on the #space-guardians<br />
* Out of band slack discussion (often used for sensitive issues)<br />
* In person group discussions<br />
<br />
Remedies:<br />
* Anyone can ask someone to leave<br />
* Anyone can ask someone to leave and not come back<br />
* Informal consensus amount frequent community participants can lead to:<br />
* being asked to leave<br />
an informal ban<br />
* being added to the 86 page<br />
* re-including someone back into the community who was previously asked to leave<br />
<br />
Some things we used to do that we don't do anymore:<br />
* Ask people that have been asked to leave to come to the next Tuesday meeting. This frequently turns the Tuesday meetings into a giant drama-fest, which drives away new community members, burns out existing community members, and makes people not to want to come to the meetings anymore.<br />
* Have a formal banning/appeals process. Having a formal process assumes that there's a single one-size-fits all process to handle all situations, which we've learned simply doesn't exist. Each situation needs to be handled separately, in the context of both the situation itself, and the current state of the rest of the community. In addition, having a formal rigid process gives an opportunity for those not welcome in the community to game the system and/or drag out the process, exhausting any community members will to engage in the process, which eventually leads to burn out.<br />
* Guarantee the same level of due process for everyone, regardless of the situation. As a fully volunteer run community, our time and energy is incredibly scarce and precious. Not all situations deserve the same level of investment.<br />
* Involve people who don't want to be involved with safe space issues. If you don't want to deal with drama in the space, you don't have to. You don't have to answer the door, nor do you have to be subscribed to #space-guardians on slack. If you just want to shut up and hack, you're encouraged to do so. By keeping safe space issues and interpersonal drama out of the weekly Tuesday meeting and off the noisebridge-discuss mailing list, we allow each person in the community to make this choice for themselves.<br />
* Mediation by default/demand - We only do it if it's likely to succeed and everyone involved wants to do it.<br />
<br />
== Red Flags ==<br />
<br />
Red flags are small signs that someone might be doing or going to try and do something that hurts the Noisebridge community. Seeing one warning sign is a reason for concern, but not a problem in and of itself. We talk about red flags when we see them to figure out if there's a larger pattern of behavior that no one person is seeing. Ie, someone found someone asleep on the couch, but didn't think too much of it. They mention it, and find out that three other people have woken the same person up, and a fourth person saw them stashing clothes in the wood shop. Now there's a much different story, which makes it pretty clear that this person doesn't belong at Noisebridge.<br />
<br />
Red flags include, but are not limited to:<br />
* Name dropping to invoke privilege. Particularly if that person is Mitch, "the owner", or "the people in charge".<br />
* Bolting passed the person opening the door for them and heading for the back of the space<br />
* Immediately heading to a hidey-hole - a dark, unpopulated corner of the space<br />
* Immediately rummaging through things after coming in. Either in the hack shelves, or elsewhere in the space.<br />
* Demanding help/attention when first coming in to the space (ie, fix my laptop/phone)<br />
* Lying<br />
* Giving people a hard time when someone questions their behavior or asks them to leave.<br />
* Only taking from the space - this mean direct theft of tools/hack shelf contents/laptops/materials/etc, or simply taking energy out of the space, by ie, sleeping, constantly complaining, etc.<br />
* Only giving to the space - this is also known as the Rayc pattern (see below).<br />
* Only using the Noisebridge kitchen/internet/couches<br />
* Ringing the doorbell late at night<br />
* Storing personal items/clothing at Noisebridge, particularly in out-of-sight places<br />
* Not making sense - racing thoughts, paranoia, etc<br />
* Immediately asking about the 24 hour access policy<br />
* Showing a sense of entitlement - an attitude that Noisebridge exists solely for their benefit<br />
* Gets argumentative quickly vs discussing when things don't go their way<br />
* Argues about how Noisebridge should be when brand new to the community<br />
* Sleeps in the space<br />
* Shows up drunk/high<br />
* Immediately tells you "I've been coming here for years."<br />
* Invokes anarchism as a reason why they can do whatever they want and don't have to listen to anyone else.<br />
* Reacts poorly when people introduce themselves or want to chat.<br />
<br />
(I think this is an important pattern, but maybe we should pick a different name. Not sure what it should be<br />
called though.)<br />
<br />
The RAYC pattern:<br />
* Shows up at Noisebridge incredibly enthusiastic<br />
* Starts jumping into working on the Noisebridge infrastructure in lots of ways<br />
* Makes lots of suggestions for improving Noisebridge without getting to know the community first<br />
* Doesn't explore or do any of their own projects<br />
* Doesn't make use of the Noisebridge classes/workshops/other resources<br />
* Develops a sense of propriety at Noisebridge<br />
* Rubs people the wrong way<br />
* Doesn't change their behavior when people give them feedback<br />
* Eventually gets unwelcomed or banned in a spectacular explosion<br />
Often people that exhibit this pattern start out as very good contributors to the space, and are often well liked within the community. But it has always led to badness, often extreme, when people only contribute to, and don't benefit from the community.<br />
<br />
Shit that might feel unfair:<br />
* Some people's opinion carries more weight than others.<br />
* Not all conversations, particularly about safe space issues, happen in public forums. Sometimes there will be conversations you're not privvy to.<br />
* Not everyone is guaranteed the same level of due process.<br />
* Not everyone who fucks up in the space will get the same level of attention.<br />
<br />
== Someone asked me to leave. What should I do? ==<br />
<br />
(I'm not sure we have a good answer for this one yet. But I think this is the best answer I have right now.)<br />
<br />
Wow, sounds like you probably fucked up pretty bad. Noisebridge does not often ask someone to leave without a lot of discussion and consensus beforehand. You should leave without arguing. Now is not the time to make a stand. Refusing to leave or arguing about leaving significantly hurts your chances of ever being allowed back. Once you've left, reflect on why you were asked to leave.<br />
<br />
The starting point for resolving problems within the Noisebridge community is having a genuine willingness and ability to:<br />
* Hear feedback on how your behavior is affecting others<br />
* Engage in productive/constructive dialog about the feedback<br />
* Change your behavior based on feedback<br />
<br />
That being said, you might not be welcome back. There are no guarantees. It depends on how badly you screwed up, and whether a core community participant that other people trust and respect is willing to vouch for you and work with you to help you understand and address other people's concerns.</div>Scottyhttps://www.noisebridge.net/index.php?title=User:Scotty&diff=54333User:Scotty2016-10-04T16:10:54Z<p>Scotty: /* SSWG */</p>
<hr />
<div><br />
= Scotty Allen =<br />
<br />
[[File:scotty.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
Email: <firstname>@<firstname><lastname>.com<br />
<br />
== About ==<br />
<br />
I'm a nomadic tech entrepreneur. The center of my orbit is San Francisco, but I spend only about half of my time there. I spend the rest of the time out traveling the world. Noisebridge is my home hackerspace, but I try and visit other hackerspaces whenever I'm traveling. I write code and build software companies for work, but I like building physical things and dong adventurous things in my spare time.<br />
<br />
== Projects ==<br />
<br />
=== Sous vide machine ===<br />
<br />
I made a sous vide machine, for cooking meat and eggs in a precisely controlled temperature bath. It's based around an Arduino Uno, a thermocouple for temperature measurement, and an acquarium pump pushing water across three immersion coils. I like to say that my favorite part of cooking is soldering and writing code.<br />
<br />
[[File:scotty_sous_vide_machine.jpg|Welding at Techshop|x200px]] [[File:scotty_sous_vide_meat.jpg|Welding at Techshop|x200px]]<br />
<br />
=== Bookshelves ===<br />
<br />
[[Bookshelves]]<br />
<br />
I helped [[User:nthmost]], [[User:Fineline]], and others build some new bookcases for Noisebridge, based on the golden ratio/golden spiral.<br />
<br />
[[File:bookcase.jpg|x200px]]<br />
<br />
=== Welding and Machining ===<br />
<br />
I've always wanted to learn to weld and machine metal. I've been gradually learning both over the past few years, mostly at Techshop, but some at noisebridge too. Well, mostly trying to get Noisebridge's metalworking tools online, really.<br />
<br />
A few random photos of stuff I've done:<br />
<br />
[[File:Landyacht welding.jpg|Welding at Techshop|200px]] [[File:scotty_side_table.jpg|200px]] [[File:scotty_table.jpg|350px]] [[File:scotty_metal_turning.JPG|350px]]<br />
<br />
=== Wood turning ===<br />
<br />
I'm into making wooden bowls from green wood. I mostly use wood I get from free from tree trimmers that discard it, usually by advertising it as free firewood on Craigslist.<br />
<br />
Here are some samples of my work:<br />
<br />
[[File:scotty_wood_turning.JPG|x200px]]<br />
[[File:scotty_bowl_1.JPG|x200px]]<br />
[[File:scotty_bowl_2.jpg|x200px]]<br />
[[File:scotty_bowl_3.jpg|x200px]]<br />
<br />
=== Land sailing ===<br />
<br />
I saw a few pictures online of land yachts, and thought it woudl be a good weekend project. 4 months later, I was finished:)<br />
<br />
I took it to the Nevada desert in March for the America's Landsailing Cup. I placed 9th in my class, which sounds impressive until you learn I was only competing in a field of 15. It's a very small sport in the US.<br />
<br />
Here's what it looked like putting some finishing touches on a new sail at Noisebridge.<br />
<br />
[[File:450px-Landyacht_finished.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
I wrote a [http://blog.noisebridge.net/2015/02/03/land-yacht-no-not-that-kind-of-land-yacht/ blog post] about it.<br />
<br />
Here's some [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q_mPRX7lXRE video] I took during the America's Landsailing Cup, and some [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uzKgdt2PFDg unedited video] from just playing around and practicing.<br />
<br />
=== Hang gliding ===<br />
<br />
I've been learning to hang glide over the past year or so.<br />
<br />
[[File:scotty_hangglide.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
=== Laser cutter documentation ===<br />
<br />
[[Laser Cutter Manual Source Documents]]<br />
<br />
=== Hackerspace Mobile ===<br />
<br />
[[:File:Hackermobile.svg]]<br />
<br />
=== SSWG ===<br />
<br />
[[How we keep Noisebridge safe]]</div>Scottyhttps://www.noisebridge.net/index.php?title=User:Scotty&diff=54332User:Scotty2016-10-04T16:09:19Z<p>Scotty: /* Hackerspace Mobile */</p>
<hr />
<div><br />
= Scotty Allen =<br />
<br />
[[File:scotty.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
Email: <firstname>@<firstname><lastname>.com<br />
<br />
== About ==<br />
<br />
I'm a nomadic tech entrepreneur. The center of my orbit is San Francisco, but I spend only about half of my time there. I spend the rest of the time out traveling the world. Noisebridge is my home hackerspace, but I try and visit other hackerspaces whenever I'm traveling. I write code and build software companies for work, but I like building physical things and dong adventurous things in my spare time.<br />
<br />
== Projects ==<br />
<br />
=== Sous vide machine ===<br />
<br />
I made a sous vide machine, for cooking meat and eggs in a precisely controlled temperature bath. It's based around an Arduino Uno, a thermocouple for temperature measurement, and an acquarium pump pushing water across three immersion coils. I like to say that my favorite part of cooking is soldering and writing code.<br />
<br />
[[File:scotty_sous_vide_machine.jpg|Welding at Techshop|x200px]] [[File:scotty_sous_vide_meat.jpg|Welding at Techshop|x200px]]<br />
<br />
=== Bookshelves ===<br />
<br />
[[Bookshelves]]<br />
<br />
I helped [[User:nthmost]], [[User:Fineline]], and others build some new bookcases for Noisebridge, based on the golden ratio/golden spiral.<br />
<br />
[[File:bookcase.jpg|x200px]]<br />
<br />
=== Welding and Machining ===<br />
<br />
I've always wanted to learn to weld and machine metal. I've been gradually learning both over the past few years, mostly at Techshop, but some at noisebridge too. Well, mostly trying to get Noisebridge's metalworking tools online, really.<br />
<br />
A few random photos of stuff I've done:<br />
<br />
[[File:Landyacht welding.jpg|Welding at Techshop|200px]] [[File:scotty_side_table.jpg|200px]] [[File:scotty_table.jpg|350px]] [[File:scotty_metal_turning.JPG|350px]]<br />
<br />
=== Wood turning ===<br />
<br />
I'm into making wooden bowls from green wood. I mostly use wood I get from free from tree trimmers that discard it, usually by advertising it as free firewood on Craigslist.<br />
<br />
Here are some samples of my work:<br />
<br />
[[File:scotty_wood_turning.JPG|x200px]]<br />
[[File:scotty_bowl_1.JPG|x200px]]<br />
[[File:scotty_bowl_2.jpg|x200px]]<br />
[[File:scotty_bowl_3.jpg|x200px]]<br />
<br />
=== Land sailing ===<br />
<br />
I saw a few pictures online of land yachts, and thought it woudl be a good weekend project. 4 months later, I was finished:)<br />
<br />
I took it to the Nevada desert in March for the America's Landsailing Cup. I placed 9th in my class, which sounds impressive until you learn I was only competing in a field of 15. It's a very small sport in the US.<br />
<br />
Here's what it looked like putting some finishing touches on a new sail at Noisebridge.<br />
<br />
[[File:450px-Landyacht_finished.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
I wrote a [http://blog.noisebridge.net/2015/02/03/land-yacht-no-not-that-kind-of-land-yacht/ blog post] about it.<br />
<br />
Here's some [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q_mPRX7lXRE video] I took during the America's Landsailing Cup, and some [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uzKgdt2PFDg unedited video] from just playing around and practicing.<br />
<br />
=== Hang gliding ===<br />
<br />
I've been learning to hang glide over the past year or so.<br />
<br />
[[File:scotty_hangglide.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
=== Laser cutter documentation ===<br />
<br />
[[Laser Cutter Manual Source Documents]]<br />
<br />
=== Hackerspace Mobile ===<br />
<br />
[[:File:Hackermobile.svg]]<br />
<br />
=== SSWG ===<br />
<br />
[How we keep Noisebridge safe]</div>Scottyhttps://www.noisebridge.net/index.php?title=Safe_Space_Working_Group&diff=53849Safe Space Working Group2016-09-07T07:43:52Z<p>Scotty: /* Who */</p>
<hr />
<div>The SSWG is a as-needed Monday meeting scheduled to help mediate conflict in the space.<br />
<br />
== Who ==<br />
<br />
Historically some of these folks have been around to help facilitate these meetings<br />
<br />
* [[User:tdfischer]]<br />
* [[User:patrickod]]<br />
* [[User:fineline]]<br />
* [[User:hicksu]]<br />
* [[User:maltman23]]<br />
* [[User:scotty]]<br />
<br />
Alternatively you can seek someone from the [[Mediation]] page to help with a meeting.<br />
<br />
== Where ==<br />
<br />
At 2169 Mission St <br />
<br />
== When ==<br />
<br />
As needed (not enough drama to warrant weekly meetings) at 7:30pm in the space.<br />
<br />
== How ==<br />
<br />
Email nb-mediation@lists.riseup.net asking for help and Mediation. Don't use this email to make your case, ask only for mediation to start.</div>Scottyhttps://www.noisebridge.net/index.php?title=Meeting_Notes_Template&diff=53327Meeting Notes Template2016-08-10T06:10:06Z<p>Scotty: Switched the order of Philanthropist and Member sections, and added a brief "Participation" section to lead into philanthropist and member, which also mentions rfids and slack</p>
<hr />
<div>----------->8----------<br />
DELETE EVERYTHING BELOW THIS LINE WHEN YOU POST THE MEETING MINUTES KTHX!!!<br />
<br />
= Instructions =<br />
<br />
Congratulations and/or condolences! You're reading this because you're participating in a meeting of Noisebridge!<br />
<br />
You should read this instructional section thoroughly, and treat them as a guideline for how to host a meeting of Noisebridge. There are three ingredients to an [[Excellent]] meeting: A number of note takers, some facilitators, and participants.<br />
<br />
Meetings are just one of the tools used at Noisebridge to create net forward progress on whatever it is we're all trying to do. Meetings aren't the only way to make decisions or have discussions, and in fact its usually a much better idea to talk about things outside the meeting before dragging the entire community kicking and screaming into it.<br />
<br />
== Note Takers ==<br />
# Confirm last meeting was saved<br />
## Check [http://www.noisebridge.net/Last_meeting Last meeting] page to confirm the Riseup pad notes were saved there at end of last meeting. <br />
## Does the text date match the page date? Great! <br />
## If not and the [http://pad.riseup.net/p/nbmeeting Riseup pad] looks like last week, copy the unsaved notes into [http://www.noisebridge.net/Last_meeting Last meeting]. If you need to clear up confusion, check the [https://noisebridge.net/wiki/Category:Meeting_Notes meeting notes archive] to make sure.<br />
# Take new notes<br />
## Open the shared text editor pad [http://pad.riseup.net/p/nbmeeting pad.riseup.net/nbmeeting].<br />
## Project the notes in real time for all to see and announce the URL to collaboratively take notes on the major points of the meeting.<br />
## Copy paste the [https://noisebridge.net/index.php?title=Meeting_Notes_Template&action=edit Meeting Notes Template]] markup into the Riseup pad.<br />
## Begin lines with * or separate lines with blank space because [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Help:Formatting Mediawiki syntax] ignores single carriage returns.<br />
# Save and share the notes at the end of the meeting (instructions at the bottom).<br />
<br />
== Facilitators ==<br />
<br />
There are generally two kinds of facilitator roles at a Noisebridge meeting:<br />
<br />
* Stack taker - Useful when a lot of folks want to hop on the discussion stack. This gives everyone a turn to have their feelings heard. Usually only works when there is exactly one stack taker.<br />
* Moderators - Keeps the meeting moving and prevents everyone from wasting too much time on one subject. Anyone is free to pick up moderation and move the meeting along.<br />
<br />
In general, moderators should:<br />
* Understand the structure of Noisebridge [[consensus|decision-making]]<br />
* Make sure everyone gets a chance to speak.<br />
* Speak only minimally yourself.<br />
* Keep the meeting moving, and avoid getting bogged down.<br />
* Identify discussion items, arrange times limits for talking about each item.<br />
* Identify and summarize consensus, suggest things that need to be done.<br />
* '''Get the [[membership binder]] and ensure that it is returned safely.'''<br />
<br />
== Participants ==<br />
<br />
Everyone at a Noisebridge meeting who has consented to participating in one is a participant!<br />
<br />
* Say your name before you talk.<br />
* Remain on-topic, and speak as concisely as possible.<br />
* Assist the note-taker with any links or corrections that are needed.<br />
* Remain respectful of other participants, their time, and the consensus and moderation process.<br />
<br />
<br />
DELETE EVERYTHING ABOVE THIS LINE WHEN YOU POST THE MEETING MINUTES KTHX!!!<br />
----------->8----------<br />
<br />
These are the notes from the [https://www.noisebridge.net/wiki/Category:Meeting_Notes The XXXth Meeting of Noisebridge]. Date: FIXME THE DATE HERE Note-taker: FIXME YOUR NAME HERE; Moderators: FIXME THEIR NAME HERE.<br />
* '''One or two bullet points of high-level meeting summary.'''<br />
<br />
== Meeting Summary ==<br />
FIXME FILL OUT AT END OF MEETING AND SEND TO MAILING LIST<br />
TLDR what happened at the meeting:<br />
* Announcements:<br />
* Finances:<br />
* New members:<br />
* New philanthropists:<br />
* Consensus Items: <br />
* Discussion Items:<br />
<br />
= Introductions =<br />
<br />
* '''Invite a knowledgeable volunteer to explain''' [[Noisebridge_Vision|what Noisebridge is about]]:<br />
<blockquote>Noisebridge is a 501c3 nonprofit that provides a space for creation, collaboration, and learning about technology and creative projects. Noisebridge provides space, power tools, and infrastructure to help the public learn new skills and create cool things. Noisebridge continues to exist through and depends entirely on membership fees and donations. Our code of conduct is 'Be excellent to each other'."</blockquote><br />
* Introduce any experimental or unusual moderation techniques that may be using during the meeting like: direct responses, limited speaking time, orderless stack, &c.<br />
* Round of introductions (remember, announcements come later):<br />
** What's your name<br />
** What do you do<br />
** What do you maintain at Noisebridge?<br />
** if you are new: how did you hear about Noisebridge?<br />
<br />
= Short announcements and events =<br />
* Cool new projects? Something you'd like people to know? Say now, but keep it short! One or two sentences please!<br />
* Any happenings at the space of which members should be made aware.<br />
* Don't hog everyone's time since we all just want to hack!<br />
<br />
= Safe Space =<br />
<br />
'''Note:''' This section is experimental. We discussed it at [[Meeting_Notes_2016_06_28]]. We're going to try it for the next meeting, and see how it goes, and then discuss in the discussion section how it went, and how we'd like to tweak it.<br />
<br />
Noisebridge is a safe space. '''Invite a volunteer to describe''' what that means.<br />
<br />
Some specific points you might prompt the group to touch on, if it doesn't happen naturally:<br />
* What to do if you feel uncomfortable.<br />
* Noisebridge strives to be radically inclusive. What does that mean?<br />
* Noisebridge has an antiharassment policy. What does that mean?<br />
<br />
= Participation =<br />
<br />
Invite a knowledgable volunteer to describe who can participate at Noisebridge, including:<br />
* Describe how to get an rfid key for the door system<br />
* Describe how to get access to slack<br />
<br />
= [[Philanthropists]]=<br />
* '''Invite a knowledgeable volunteer to describe''' [[Philanthropist/Pledge|Philantropy]], and the application process.<br />
* Read off any names from the binder for the past month. Any applicants must have their sponsor present to vouch for them.<br />
* If there are no objections, they're a philanthropist! Their pledge should be handed over to the [[Secretary]] posthaste, after which their token will be updated to give them the 24/7 access they've earned(?)<br />
<br />
= [[ Membership Binder ]] =<br />
<br />
* '''Invite a knowledgeable volunteer to describe''' [[membership]], and the application process.<br />
<blockquote>Being a member of Noisebridge is not like being a member of a gym or your local chess club. Anyone can come to Noisebridge to hack and learn: you don't need to be a member for that. At Noisebridge, membership is something different: it means taking responsibility and committing to help to maintain, improve, and govern Noisebridge. As a member of Noisebridge, you don't just come here to hack and learn, you actively work to improve what you see around you, help to deal with problems, and make this community and space better than it is today.</blockquote><br />
* Read off any names from the binder for the past month. Mark down a check or other indicator on every open application to keep track of how many weeks they've been read out.<br />
* Anyone eligible to join this week should<br />
** introduce themselves,<br />
** answer any questions members may have for them, then<br />
** leave the area in search of gifts (traditionally beer and a lime, or cookies) for the rest of the group.<br />
* The rest of the meeting should reach consensus on whether they may join.<br />
* Remember to applaud new members when they return.<br />
<br />
<br />
= Financial Report =<br />
* Funds in bank:<br />
* Noisetor (See the bulletpoints at the bottom of http://noisetor.net/finances/#summary):<br />
* Any other details by those participating in handling our financials<br />
<br />
= Consensus and Discussion =<br />
<br />
* '''invite a knowledgeable volunteer to give '''[[Consensus Process|a brief primer on consensus process]]<br />
* It is important that everyone in attendance understands at least:<br />
** Blocking with verbalized principled objections.<br />
** Why we use consensus over other approaches to decision making.<br />
** How consensus isn't a legislative process<br />
** Why consensus isn't applicable to some things like conflict resolution, resolution of time sinks, and the like.<br />
<br />
== [[ Consensus Items History | Proposals from last week ]] ==<br />
''(Add any items which are consensed upon or someone has raised a principle objection for to the [[Consensus Items History]] page.)''<br />
<br />
== [[ Current Consensus Items | Proposals for next week ]] ==<br />
''(Add any new items for consensus to the [[Current Consensus Items]] page.)''<br />
<br />
== Discussion Items ==<br />
<br />
If any important discussion happens, it should be happening after forward progress is made during consensus.<br />
<br />
= End of Meeting =<br />
<br />
# Return the [[membership binder]] to its rightful location.<br />
# Discuss any items for which there was not time during the meeting.<br />
# Enjoy the company of your fellow hacker, robot, or robothacker.<br />
<br />
== Note taker posts the notes ==<br />
# Clean and tidy the meeting notes including removing all these really verbose instructions.<br />
# Fill out the short summary at the top listing just announcements, consensus items, discussion topics, and names of new members and philanthropists.<br />
# Copy paste the notes to the [http://www.noisebridge.net//Next_meeting next meeting] page. (They will become [[Last meeting]] at midnight.)<br />
# Email the meeting summary to [mailto:noisebridge-discuss@lists.noisebridge.net?subject=MeetingNotes Noisebridge Discuss] and [mailto:noisebridge-announce@lists.noisebridge.net?subject=MeetingNotes Noisebridge Announce] lists.<br />
# CC on the email treasurer@noisebridge.net and secretary@noisebridge.net if there are new members and philanthropists.<br />
# Edit the [[Current_Consensus_Items|Current Consensus Items]] if anything is proposed for consensus next week.<br />
# Edit the [[Consensus_Items_History|Consensus Items History]] if anything was reached consensus or failed to reach consensus this week.<br />
<br />
== Fun things to do after ==<br />
* Reprise of the [[Hackernationale]]. [This is anarchy - we do what the wiki says!]<br />
* [[PGP|PGP Key Signing]] could happen now (if it doesn't happen '''before''' any given Meeting). Ask others around the space or check the [[PGP|list]] to see who wants in on the action.<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:Meeting Notes]]</div>Scottyhttps://www.noisebridge.net/index.php?title=Laser_Manual&diff=53326Laser Manual2016-08-10T05:57:31Z<p>Scotty: /* Who can use the laser cutter */</p>
<hr />
<div>== Contact list ==<br />
<br />
=== Trainers ===<br />
<br />
* Scotty Allen (@scotty on slack)<br />
* Darryl (@augur on slack)<br />
* Ruth Grace (@ruthgrace on slack)<br />
* Kyle (@kylesewing on slack)<br />
<br />
== Who can use the laser cutter ==<br />
<br />
Only people who have been trained by an official trainer can use the laser cutter, in order to prevent unintended damage to the machine, operator, and Noisebridge.<br />
<br />
People that have successfully completed the class:<br />
* Scotty Allen (@scotty) - Trainer<br />
* Darryl McAdams(@augur) - Trainer<br />
* Ruth Grace Wong (@ruthgrace) - Trainer<br />
* Kyle Ng (@kylesewing) - Trainer<br />
* Henner Zeller (@hzeller)<br />
* Adrian Kelly (@akelly)<br />
* Nick Pisaro (@nickp)<br />
* Patrick O'Doherty (@patrickod)<br />
* Jason Bohannon (@jason808)<br />
* John Foote (@rrmutt)<br />
* Naomi Most (@nthmost)<br />
* Joyti Jit (@joyti)<br />
* David Lopez (@davidlopez)<br />
* Sigma (no slack)<br />
* Steve Young (@fineline)<br />
* Roger Filmyer (@roger)<br />
* Collin Overbay (slack tbd)<br />
* Ryan (slack tbd)<br />
<br />
== How to get trained to use the laser cutter ==<br />
<br />
# Ask a trainer if they will train you<br />
# Schedule a time with the trainer<br />
## The laser training class size is limited to 5 students, so that everyone can see how to operate the laser.<br />
# Get trained<br />
# Get your name on the list of users before the first time you use the machine<br />
<br />
== Basic Safety ==<br />
The laser cutter is generally a very safe machine to use. However, as with all industrial machines, you need to treat it with respect. The main safety concerns are creating fires, hurting your eyes or skin, getting crushed by the machine, and creating toxic fumes.<br />
<br />
The basics:<br />
* ALWAYS WATCH THE LASER BEAM CUTTING YOUR WORK!<br />
* OPEN THE LID if you see a fire<br />
* BLOW IT OUT if the fire keeps burning<br />
* DON'T CUT UNAPPROVED MATERIALS!<br />
<br />
=== Fire ===<br />
<br />
[[Image:Laser_water_estop.jpg|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=Laser cutter with water and estop| The water squirt bottle is sitting on top of the laser, and the estop is the round red button.]]<br />
<br />
You can really hurt yourself or burn the building down with this machine. If you follow the safety rules, the chances of you causing this is close to zero. Some materials are very flammable on the laser cutter, and shouldn't be cut. Never cut an unapproved material, or a material you can't identify. A laser beam can also initiate a fire if the speed of the cut is too slow or the laser power is set too high.<br />
<br />
<br />
Ways to not cause fires:<br />
* ALWAYS WATCH THE LASER CUTTER WHENEVER IT IS CUTTING AS FIRES CAN HAPPEN. The laser affects your material by heating it. Your job can change in seconds with the accumulation of heat in your material. Never leave the room while the laser is in operation. If you leave the laser unattended, your access to the laser cutter will be permanently revoked.<br />
* Use reasonable speed/power settings. Start with the recommended speed/power settings for your material. Be patient - resist the temptation to crank the power and speed to rush through your job. This can cause fires.<br />
** There will be some light when material is cut. This light at the point of lasing may be ok as long as it stays with the motion of the laser. If a flame appears while the laser is in operation, stop your job and try again with lower heat settings.<br />
* Know where the fire extinguisher is in case of a fire. The ONLY fire extinguisher that should be used on the laser cutter is the halotron extinguisher right next to the laser cutter. Other fire extinguishers are corrosive and will ruin the machine.<br />
<br />
How to put out a fire:<br />
* Push the estop. (To turn the machine back on after the estop was hit, you need to switch the power switch on the right hand side of the machine off and on again).<br />
* Open the lid.<br />
* If it's small, try and blow it out.<br />
* If it's smallish, try and squirt it out with the water squirt bottle sitting on the right hand side of the machine.<br />
* If that doesn't work, use the halotron fire extinguisher to the right of the laser cutter. Aim it at the base of the flame.<br />
<br />
=== Damage to eyes and skin ===<br />
The laser beam can instantly and permanently blind you. It can also burn your skin.<br />
* You don't ever want any part of your body in contact with the beam.<br />
* As long as the door is closed, you're safe to look at the laser. There are interlocks on the door that help ensure the laser never operates with the doors open. Don't disable them.<br />
<br />
=== Crushing danger ===<br />
<br />
The laser cutter is a dumb machine. It doesn't care whether your hand is in the way when it's moving. The head can move when the door is open. Always make sure everyone's hands are out of the machine before moving the head.<br />
<br />
Also be very careful not to crash the head into other parts of the machine. Be very careful when moving the z-axis to not crash the head into the bed, and to not move the z-axis if the focus length acrylic circle is under the lens.<br />
<br />
=== Fumes ===<br />
The laser cutter burns the things it's cutting, which can create toxic fumes.<br />
* ONLY CUT APPROVED MATERIALS. Cutting nonapproved materials can release really toxic gases, including chlorine and cyanide. These are really bad for humans, as well as being very damaging to the laser cutter.<br />
* The ventilation fan should always be running if the laser cutter is on, even if it's not cutting. It's currently wired such that you can't turn on the laser cutter without the fan turning on, but please make sure it's running.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Care of the machine ==<br />
<br />
'''Please don't perform any maintenance on the machine (including cleaning lenses/mirrors or aligning mirrors) unless you've specifically trained on it.'''<br />
<br />
The laser cutter is finely calibrated piece of machinery. Please close the lid gently, and do not push or jar the machine at any time. Do not lean or press on the tray - it's fragile, and needs to be perfectly flat for the laser cutter to cut properly. If you take the honeycomb bed or slats out, please be ULTRA CAREFUL with them - put them somewhere where they won't get damaged or warped.<br />
<br />
== Paying for your laser time ==<br />
<br />
The laser cutter has parts that wear out over time, which can be quite costly to replace, especially the laser tube. A new tube costs several thousand dollars. Thus, we require people to pay for the time on the laser they use, so we can pay for new parts. The cost for using the laser cutter is $5 per hour of cutting time.<br />
<br />
To figure out how much time your job takes, press the File button, select your file, and then select Work Time from the menu. It will tell you in hours:minutes.seconds.<br />
<br />
There is a laser cutter donation box on the wall of the Sparkle Forge room. Please pay for the cutting time you actually use, even if you end up running your job multiple times.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Workflows ==<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Overall Workflow ===<br />
<br />
This is the overall structure of the workflow. Each part is elaborated below.<br />
<br />
# Laser start up<br />
# Material setup<br />
# Convert file to DXF<br />
# Load file onto the machine<br />
# Dry run<br />
# Cut/Engrave<br />
# Laser shut down<br />
# Cleanup<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Laser start up ===<br />
<br />
[[Image:Laser_chiller.jpg|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=Laser chiller| The laser chiller is the box on the bottom left of this photograph. If the laser doesn't beep when it turns on, you should turn on the chiller manually.]]<br />
<br />
# Turn on power and ensure that the fan and chiller are running. If you do not hear beeps when the laser starts up, the chiller is not running and you must turn it on.<br />
# Move the head as far forward and right as possible, close to the controls<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Material setup ===<br />
<br />
# Clean the bed of any scraps that may be on it<br />
# Move the cut head as far forward and right as possible (near the controls)<br />
# Raise the laser head as far up as possible<br />
# Raise the bed to the desired height, watching the laser head to avoid crashes<br />
# Move the laser head as far back and right as possible<br />
# Place material on the bed<br />
# Focus the laser (do at least for each distinct thickness, optimally do for each piece of material)<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Focusing the laser ===<br />
<br />
[[Image:Laser_shelf.jpg|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=Shelf by laser cutter | This is the shelf to the left of the laser cutter. The acrylic disks used for focusing the laser are in the toolbox with the yellow lid.]]<br />
<br />
Noisebridge has acryllic disks cut to various thicknesses that can be used to accurately focus the laser. Specifically the laser head needs to be locked to 8mm above the surface of the material you're cutting.<br />
<br />
# Place the material on the cut bed<br />
# Move the cut head to the center of the area to cut, watching the laser head to avoid crashes w/ material<br />
# Loosen the wing nut and raise the head all the way up<br />
# Place the focusing discs on the material under the head<br />
# Lower the head until it just touches the focusing disc (8mm above material)<br />
# Lock the head in place (tighten the wing nut)<br />
# Remove the focusing discs<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Convert an image in Inkscape to a DXF file ===<br />
<br />
# Load the image into Inkscape<br />
# Set the different cut paths to different colors (for controlling settings, etc.)<br />
# Save as a DXF. Be sure to make the units be millimeters so that importing later will correctly scale the image.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Debugging DXF Problems ===<br />
<br />
Sometimes exporting to DXF introduces bizarre extra lines. There are two things to try to debug. The first is to convert objects to paths:<br />
<br />
# Select all the problematic shapes<br />
# Path > Object to Path<br />
<br />
If this fails to resolve the issue, you can try a more radical solution which will eliminate all bezier paths entirely:<br />
<br />
# Select all the problematic shapes<br />
# Convert bezier paths to lines (Extensions > Modify Path > Flatten Bezier).<br />
<br />
Flatness 0.5 is good to start with. Smaller = better approximation of the curves. A lower flatness number takes more time to compute, but also produces a better approximation to the curve.<br />
<br />
Sometimes need to select the path's directly with the path tool (but not the points!).<br />
<br />
=== Loading into the laser cutter software ===<br />
<br />
# Import the file with File > Import<br />
# Resize as needed, tho if the file was exported w/ millimeter units, the software should also import the image with the correct size.<br />
# Set the cut order:<br />
##* EITHER Set the cut order to inside-out (Handle > Cut optimize > Inside to outside)<br />
##* OR Manually specify cut order with the Set cut property tool (Edit > Set cutting property). See below for more details.<br />
# Set the speed and power for the layers as necessary, and the process mode for each layer to either cut (for continuous line cutting) or dot (for dashed line cutting) or scan (for engraving)<br />
# Optionally, simulate the cutting/engraving process.<br />
# Download to the machine (Laser Work panel on the bottom right).<br />
<br />
=== Manually specifying cut order ===<br />
<br />
In the Set cutting property window (Edit > Set cutting property), you can manually re-order the cut paths. In the window, you'll see an image of the workpiece, and to its right, two lists of paths. When you first open the window, all of the cut paths are in the left. If you select a path (either in the image or in the list) and click the button labeled ">>", this path will be transferred to the end of the right list of paths. If you click ">>>", all of the paths in the left list will be moved to the end of the right list (preserving order). Similarly, clicking "<<<" will move the right list to the end of the left list. If you select a cut path in the right list, the up and down arrow buttons will reorder that path in the chosen direction.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Loading speed and power settings from library ===<br />
<br />
# In the top right panel, double click the layer of interest<br />
# Click "Load parameters from library"<br />
# Select the library item<br />
# Click "Load"<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Saving power and speed settings to library ===<br />
<br />
# In the top right panel, double click the layer of interest<br />
# Make sure the layer is set to the desired parameters<br />
# Click "Load parameters from library"<br />
# Click "Save as"<br />
# Enter a name and optionally some notes<br />
# Click "Ok"<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Simulation ===<br />
<br />
# Open the simulation window with either Edit > Preview or the toolbar button labelled with a monitor.<br />
# Click the Simulation button in the right panel<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Cutting ===<br />
<br />
# Select the file to use using the File button<br />
# Move the head to the initial guess origin with the arrow buttons<br />
# Test the frame with the Frame button adjust origin as necessary<br />
# Set the origin by pressing Origin<br />
# Test the cut by turning the laser power off and pressing the Start/Pause button<br />
# Turn the laser power on<br />
# Cut by pressing the Start/Pause button<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Engraving ===<br />
<br />
TODO<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Cancel a cut/dry run ===<br />
<br />
# Pause with the Start/Pause button<br />
# Cancel and move back to the origin with the Esc button<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Laser shut down ===<br />
<br />
# Move the head as far forward and right as possible (near the controls)<br />
# Raise the laser head as far up as possible<br />
# Let the fan run for a little bit (~30 seconds)<br />
# Turn the power off<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Cleanup ===<br />
<br />
[[Image:Laser_tray.jpg|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=Laser bottom tray| This is the bottom tray of the laser, which should be cleaned out after use.]]<br />
<br />
# Remove pieces of material scrap left on the bed<br />
# Open the tray door on the front bottom and empty the scraps left there<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Calculating work time ===<br />
<br />
On the computer:<br />
<br />
* Open the simulation window (see above). Total work time and time of laser use are displayed in the top right. Donations should be calculated by laser use, not total work time.<br />
<br />
On the machine:<br />
<br />
* Whole file: File > Select file > Right Arrow > Work Time > Enter<br />
* Current run: Pause the cut, then check time at the bottom right<br />
<br />
== Fusion 360 ==<br />
Fusion 360 is a free CAD (Computer Aided Design) program from Autodesk for designing 3D parts, and arguably the best one currently available. If you're designing something complex on the laser cutter, particularly with multiple parts that need to fit together, I highly recommend it over drawing programs like Inkscape. It also has CAM (Computer Aided Manufacturing) capabilities, which makes it very useful for CNC machining and laser cutting. There's a copy of the software on the laser cutter computer, and you can download it [http://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview here]. It's free as long as you make less than $100k per year using it.<br />
<br />
=== Workflow 1: The Quick and Dirty Way ===<br />
This is the fastest way, and works a lot of the time<br />
# Make sure your sketch only contains straight lines, arcs, and circles, and no spline curves. If your sketch has splines, go to [[#Workflow 3: The Long Way]]<br />
# Make sure your part is designed using a single sketch, and that you want to cut all the lines in that sketch. If not, go to [[#Workflow 2: The Middle Ground]]<br />
# Right click on your sketch and click Save As DXF<br />
# Import the DXF in RDWorks, and continue with the standard workflow starting at [[#Loading into the laser cutter software]]<br />
<br />
=== Workflow 2: The Middle Ground ===<br />
If you're not sure, this is probably where you should start.<br />
# Make sure your sketch only contains straight lines, arcs, and circles, and no spline curves. If your sketch has splines, go to [[#Workflow 3: The Long Way]]<br />
# Right click on the top surface of the part you want to cut, and click Create Sketch<br />
# Hit the P key to open the Project dialog box, then select the top surface of your part, and any other lines you want to cut<br />
# Hit OK, then remove any lines you don't want cut<br />
# Open the Sketches folder near the top of the tree, then right click your new sketch and click Save As DXF<br />
# Import the DXF in RDWorks, and continue with the standard workflow starting at [[#Loading into the laser cutter software]]<br />
<br />
=== Workflow 3: The Long Way ===<br />
This allows more complicated things like exporting splines, which doesn't work with the above methods, kerf compensation, which makes your parts fit together snugly, but you can also use the above methods and then do it in RDWorks, or lead-ins and lead-outs, which can make for a cleaner cut, but I can't figure out how to get RDWorks to import correctly.<br />
# Design a part to be laser cut by drawing a 2D sketch and extruding it<br />
# Go to the CAM workspace by clicking the Model button in the top left, then selecting CAM<br />
# Select the Waterjet operation (if you don't see this, turn it on under Preferences -> Preview)<br />
## Set Type to Laser Cutting<br />
## Select the Cutting Mode, either Through - Auto or Etch<br />
## Look up the kerf of the material you're cutting in the [[#Known good materials]] section, and enter that in Kerf Width, or if your material's not listed, cut one a [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1166680 kerf gauge] and put the result in the wiki. The kerf changes depending on the thickness, speed and power. Setting a larger kerf width will make your parts fit tighter, and setting a smaller kerf will make them looser.<br />
## Select the contours of your part that you want to cut<br />
## Go to the Passes tab, and change Compensation Type to In Computer<br />
## Hit OK to close the dialog box, and you can see a preview of your tool path. You can go back to edit it by double clicking the contour operation in the tree on the left<br />
# To export to DXF, click the Post Process button, which says G1 G2. Make sure rdworkslaser is selected as your post processor, type a name for the export and hit Post. Then select the folder to put it in.<br />
# Import the DXF in RDWorks, and continue with the standard workflow starting at [[#Loading into the laser cutter software]]<br />
# Fusion automatically orders the cuts from inside out and in the fastest order, but RDWorks doesn't always respect that order, so you may need to optimize the cut order again<br />
<br />
=== Advanced Options ===<br />
# If you're using your own computer for the first time and not the laser cutter desktop, you have to enable the laser cutter support which is still in beta, by clicking on your name in the top right, then Preferences, Preview, and checking "CAM - Waterjet/Laser/Plasma cutter support". You will also need to download the custom post processor that we use for this laser.<br />
# There's a simulate button to the left of the Post Process button, if you want to do it in Fusion<br />
# If you want to disable or tweak the lead ins and lead outs, you can go to the Linking tab. Lead ins and lead outs can fix the bump you get on the side of your part where the laser started and stopped, but they also make extra cuts in your scrap material, which you may want to keep. In this tab you can also specify the Entry Position for each cut path.<br />
# You can disable Kerf Compensation by settting Sideways Compensation to Center under the Passes tab, though this is not recommended<br />
<br />
<br />
== Techniques ==<br />
<br />
=== Text Cutting ===<br />
<br />
Engraved text requires no special technique because no cuts are made, but text cutting is non-trivial. Because of loops, it's sometimes desirable to use a stencil font, especially at smaller scales where legibility is important. 1001 fonts has a number of stencil fonts for free. At 10pt, some good fonts are Marsh, Spacedock, and Allerta.<br />
<br />
=== Negative Space Engraving ===<br />
<br />
You can engrave a vector shape with a hole in the middle of it, so that you get enclosed portions that are not engraved in the middle of fully engraved portions. To do this, when you construct the image in your editor of choice, simply perform subtraction between the relevant paths, to remove the inner part. In the RDWorks laser software, the two paths will show up, and be independently editable (making them look like just two distinct paths to engrave), but they will engrave correctly as a negative space. Obviously test this w/ your software; this technique is known to work using Inkscape.<br />
<br />
=== Kerf Compensation ===<br />
<br />
For any given layer, you can compensate for the kerf (width of the cut) by opening it's settings and clicking the "Advance" button next to the "Seal" input box towards the middle-bottom. Enable sew compensation, and pick the direction and sew width (kerf size). The inward direction will make the actual cut move toward the inside of a closed cut path, outward will move it towards the outside.<br />
<br />
In general, for cuts on the outside, you want to move outward, to move the actual cut edge be exactly where the path is in your design. For cuts on the inside, you want to use the inward direction.<br />
<br />
== Maintenance==<br />
<br />
'''Please don't perform any maintenance on the machine (including cleaning lenses/mirrors or aligning mirrors) unless you've specifically trained on it.'''<br />
<br />
* TEMP note: some check(s) may be included outside of maintenance so a user can trigger a maintenance notification<br />
* DON'T - let someone who has been trained do it<br />
* how to tell if the lens is dirty (or getting old?)<br />
* how to tell if the mirrors are dirty<br />
** Cleaning the mirrors<br />
*** ethanol solution? isopropanol? - see manual.<br />
*** fabric must be non scratch - see manual.<br />
* Checking and performing mirror alignment<br />
** Safety - remove gratings and any other reflective surfaces before any maintenance that requires disabling the door sensors.<br />
** TEMP note: in restrospect the alignment was a very dangerous situation. mirror paths were not checked before powering on the laser with the door open with many people around. (or maybe nigel is just insanely good at configuring mirrors... still... reddit.com/r/OSHA)<br />
** Tape test - mirrors 1,2,3 and their corresponding exits. Slightly propped laser tube.<br />
** vertical/horizontal alignment by brass dial.<br />
* Checking chiller tank water volume<br />
** Chiller alarm - what does it mean<br />
** Checking tank water volume<br />
** Refilling tank water<br />
* Cleaning the bed and waste drawer (this section probably should be moved to usage)<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Signs:<br />
* <strike>Don't open front/back passthrough doors (for now)</strike><br />
* <strike>Fire extinguishers - which to use for what fire</strike><br />
* Approved materials<br />
* <strike>careful when raising bed, dont crash into laser head</strike><br />
* move laser head out of the way before opening the lid<br />
* power off the laser before opening the lid ???<br />
* <strike>watch the laser while it is cutting</strike><br />
<br />
<br />
Todos:<br />
* <strike>Move the machine further away from the right wall so we can get to the power switch.</strike><br />
* <strike>label the water squirt bottle as for fires and not to remove</strike><br />
* acquire piece of copper for chlorine materials test<br />
* acquire vinyl record for testing<br />
* acquire propane bottle and nozzle<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
material notes<br />
* material selection - approved materials list<br />
** nothing that generates hazerdous fumes, particularly chlorine/formeldahyde<br />
** no aluminum or other metals (?? ryan claims these can be safely engraved in this machine)<br />
** nothing reflective<br />
** size constraints<br />
* laser configuration - power, speed<br />
** table of recommmended settings for various materials<br />
<br />
How to get a new/novel material approved<br />
* consensus process<br />
* chlorine test<br />
<br />
== Chlorine material test ==<br />
<br />
Before you cut any new material you *must* check that it is safe to cut; specifically that it will not produce chlorine gas when it is burned by the cutting laser. Chlorine is extremely dangerous in its gaseous form and so must be avoided at all costs. <br />
<br />
To test a new material, you'll need a sample of the material, a small copper rod (about the thickness of a coat hanger), a pliars, and a handheld propane torch. We'll test for the presence of chlorine by burning a sample of the material in a high temperature propane flame and observe the visible emission spectra. Chrlorine produces a bright green light when burned, and so will be very obvious when you're testing your material.<br />
<br />
First, light the propane torch and set it to rest upright on a stable surface. Taking the pliar, hold the piece of copper in the blue part of the flame to heat it. As the copper begins to heat sufficiently it'll cause the flame to turn an orange color. A consistent orange color means that the copper has no residue material on its surface and so is clean enough to use as a test. If you observe non-orange flames when you burn the copper you may need to clean in further, either by waiting for the excess material to burn off, or by scrubbing the surface of the copper when it has cooled.<br />
<br />
Once the copper is burning, take the hot copper and melt a sample of the new material onto it. For example if you were testing a new form of plastic you can roll the hot copper rod on the material, melting some of it onto the copper rod's surface.<br />
<br />
With this done, place the copper rod back into the blue part of the flame. Observe the colors of the emission spectra from the new material burning. If you observe a bright green color, then the material contains chlorine and thus *must not* be burned further. Ventilate your surrounding area to avoid breathing it in. If you observe no green color as you burn your material sample, then the material is likely safe to use with the laser cutter.<br />
<br />
Here is a video example by Zach in NYCResistor with a known good and known bad material: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D0_4NLmeSTI<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== BANNED MATERIALS (NEVER USE THESE) ==<br />
<br />
These materials '''must not be used in the laser cutter'''. <br />
<br />
{|border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"<br />
|-<br />
! colspan="10" bgcolor="#ccc" | Bad materials<br />
|-<br />
! Material<br />
! Notes<br />
|-<br />
| PVC || Contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br />
|-<br />
| Vinyl || Most contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br />
|- <br />
| PVC Foams || Most contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br />
|- <br />
| Foam Core || Usually made with PVC which is harmful as listed above. <br />
|- <br />
| Styrofoam || Can cause flash fires<br />
|-<br />
| Polycarbonate or PETG || Does not cut. TAP plastics sells both this and acrylic. '''Be sure to read your labels when purchasing material'''. Lexan is the trade name for Polycarbonate, while Plexiglass is the trade name for acrylic.<br />
|- <br />
| ABS || Gives of hydrogen cyanide<br />
|- <br />
| Fiberglass ||<br />
|- <br />
| Metals || Cannot be etched by this type of laser. Also is harmful as the reflective surface may cause the laser to be reflected back up to the head, damaging it. If someone claims to be etching metal using this type of laser then they are etching a metal with a plastic coating, anodized surface, or some other etchable surface on top.<br />
<br />
|}<br />
<br />
== Known good materials ==<br />
<br />
These materials are known to be ok for use with the laser cutter. The speed and power of the laser cutter will need to be set appropriately for the material and thickness in use. Below is a table showing the suggested settings when cutting or etching them.<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" <br />
|-<br />
! colspan="10" bgcolor="#cccccc" | Cardboards/Papers<br />
|-<br />
! rowspan="2" | Material<br />
! colspan="3" | Engraving <br />
! colspan="3" | Cutting<br />
! colspan="2" | Scoring<br />
! rowspan="1" | Notes<br />
|-<br />
! Speed (mm/s) !! Power !! DPI !! Speed (mm/s) !! Power !! Kerf Width !! Speed !! Power ||<br />
|-<br />
|-<br />
<br />
|-<br />
| Acrylic (black, 3mm) || || || || 20 || 55% || || || ||<br />
<br />
|-<br />
| Acrylic (clear, 3mm) || || || || 20 || 55% || || || ||<br />
<br />
|-<br />
| Acrylic (clear, 12.5mm) || || || || 3 || 55% || || || || Focal length is 4mm<br />
<br />
|-<br />
| Acrylic (clear, 18mm) || || || || 6 || 55% || || || || Focal length is 4mm; cuts require three passes, don't move piece between passes<br />
<br />
|-<br />
| Balsawood (3.2mm) || || || || 50 || 10% || || || ||<br />
<br />
|-<br />
| Balsawood (1.6mm) || || || || 50 || 7% || || || ||<br />
<br />
|-<br />
| Basswood (1.5mm) || || || || 50 || 15% || || || ||<br />
<br />
|-<br />
| Basswood (6.5mm) || || || || 20 || 55% || || || ||<br />
<br />
<br />
|-<br />
| Birch (0.9mm) || || || || 50 || 20% || || || || 15% power doesn't fully cut through, 20% will, but smaller values might also work<br />
<br />
|-<br />
| Birch (4.8mm) || || || || 35 || 55% || || || || <br />
<br />
|-<br />
| Cardboard (4mm) || || || || 50 || 15% || || 50 || 5% || Minimum line separation at 50/15 ~ 1/2mm<br />
<br />
|-<br />
| Denim || 200 || 4% || || 50 || 7% || || || || engraving numbers might produce very thin fabric, might fall apart in the wash<br />
<br />
|-<br />
| Paper (printer paper) || || || || 55 || 5% || || || ||<br />
<br />
|-<br />
| Plywood (3mm) || 400 || 5-55% || 500-2000 || 35 || 50% || 0.0007 in || || || see reference in toolbox for engraving<br />
<br />
|-<br />
| Plywood (5.6mm) || 400 || 5-55% || 500-2000 || 15 || 55% || 0.002 in || || || see reference in toolbox for engraving<br />
<br />
|-<br />
| Plywood (9.5mm) || 400 || 5-55% || 500-2000 || 7 || 55% || || || || see reference in toolbox for engraving<br />
<br />
|-<br />
| Plywood (12mm) || 400 || 5-55% || 500-2000 || 5 || 55% || || || || requires overcutting beginning/end; see reference in toolbox for engraving<br />
<br />
|}<br />
<br />
The [[Laser Gallery]] contains some past projects and cutting tests.<br />
<br />
== Sourcing Material ==<br />
<br />
In general, you can get stuff form Amazon, but you have to wait for shipping.<br />
<br />
For plastics: [http://www.google.com/maps/place/TAP+Plastics/@37.7711648,-122.4207603,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f7e27351bb079:0x7e3610d7dc178b10!8m2!3d37.7711648!4d-122.4185663 Tap Plastics] is nearby Noisebridge, but is expensive, [http://eplastics.com eplastics] is cheaper but you need to wait for shipping, and [https://www.google.com/maps/place/Mr.+Plastics/@37.7091519,-122.1546962,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f8fe7938349a3:0xafcb2526326faccd!8m2!3d37.7091519!4d-122.1525022 Mr. Plastics] is cheapest but is in San Leandro.<br />
<br />
For woods: [http://www.google.com/maps/place/Discount+Builders+Supply/@37.7704879,-122.4191311,15z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0x3c0d6c6e25a89652?sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjV87WU-JzOAhUI6WMKHSPABOUQ_BIIeTAK Discount Builder Supply] is nearby.</div>Scottyhttps://www.noisebridge.net/index.php?title=User:Johnstonmalcomp&diff=53316User:Johnstonmalcomp2016-08-09T20:09:16Z<p>Scotty: Blanked the page</p>
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<div></div>Scottyhttps://www.noisebridge.net/index.php?title=User:OdellWoodm&diff=53315User:OdellWoodm2016-08-09T20:08:57Z<p>Scotty: Blanked the page</p>
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<div></div>Scottyhttps://www.noisebridge.net/index.php?title=User:KarrMcmillianc&diff=53314User:KarrMcmillianc2016-08-09T20:08:51Z<p>Scotty: Blanked the page</p>
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<div></div>Scottyhttps://www.noisebridge.net/index.php?title=User:StefanieBrennan&diff=53312User:StefanieBrennan2016-08-09T20:08:25Z<p>Scotty: Blanked the page</p>
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<div></div>Scottyhttps://www.noisebridge.net/index.php?title=User:StefanieBrennan&diff=53311User:StefanieBrennan2016-08-09T20:08:18Z<p>Scotty: Replaced content with "]"</p>
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<div>]</div>Scottyhttps://www.noisebridge.net/index.php?title=User:Rubin110&diff=53304User:Rubin1102016-08-09T07:33:45Z<p>Scotty: Undo revision 53280 by 85.25.103.119 (talk)</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Image:Rubin - all the donuts - by Audrey Penvin.jpg|right]]<br />
(╯°□°)╯︵ ┻━┻<br />
<br />
=Rubin Starset=<br />
<br />
Hi, I'm Rubin. Most of the time my hair is colored bright. I enjoy helping to create moments that force people to question their notion of reality. If you search hard enough, you might be able to find out more about me. Though if you're lazy, you could just go [http://rubin.starset.net here].<br />
<br />
-----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----<br />
Hash: SHA1<br />
<br />
Rubin<br />
rubin@starset.net<br />
<br />
PGP<br />
Key ID: 0x1AEF90F4<br />
Fingerprint: 3C8C F75D 7627 DDBD 8CB3 AAE7 D88E F061 1AEF 90F4<br />
http://rubin.starset.net/pgp<br />
http://pgp.mit.edu:11371/pks/lookup?op=get&search=0xD88EF0611AEF90F4<br />
https://keys.indymedia.org/pks/lookup?op=vindex&search=0xD88EF0611AEF90F4<br />
<br />
SSH<br />
ssh-dss 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 rubin@starset.net<br />
<br />
OTR<br />
rubin@starset.net/lines (XMPP)<br />
Fingerprint: 82982314 3F4F5B13 AC31C763 B2F5D5DE 2D898908<br />
<br />
-----BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE-----<br />
Version: GnuPG v2.0.18 (GNU/Linux)<br />
<br />
iQEcBAEBAgAGBQJPerkAAAoJENiO8GEa75D0D7gH+wWXsMWhV/QO10WufYdGssd0<br />
NJdbe4Mz70hoB/VgagdhT1RlydTjGOGOVrimZoCOw4IfUdmEfxHu+DVGmbPRsop3<br />
Mt2qEmSG54Bnut4B+sqYskrOY5qrF6nrzf3ytDKuDExb6ZoKpyhLkW1G6pATgDph<br />
D7WEWRXifWNieCOe35ukhZRFht8TmwT+U8I8wJx2adZp6fZeLyrGLbRC/s4vDKN3<br />
TrDyHUszaADw/1gq8Re/TRJRn7r3YrJOOzwt6ldw3GiYhV2CMw/PFsvq/yhtQhZR<br />
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=jUjq<br />
-----END PGP SIGNATURE-----<br />
<br />
==== <tt>/etc/passwd</tt> entry ====<br />
<br />
$ sudo adduser --gecos 'Rubin Starset' --shell /bin/bash rubin110<br />
<br />
[[Category:PGP]]</div>Scottyhttps://www.noisebridge.net/index.php?title=User:Finleymondor&diff=53303User:Finleymondor2016-08-09T07:31:56Z<p>Scotty: Blanked the page</p>
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<div></div>Scottyhttps://www.noisebridge.net/index.php?title=Laser_Manual&diff=53262Laser Manual2016-08-08T03:41:55Z<p>Scotty: </p>
<hr />
<div>== Contact list ==<br />
<br />
=== Trainers ===<br />
<br />
* Scotty Allen (@scotty on slack)<br />
* Darryl (@augur on slack)<br />
* Ruth Grace (@ruthgrace on slack)<br />
* Kyle (@kylesewing on slack)<br />
<br />
== Who can use the laser cutter ==<br />
<br />
Only people who have been trained by an official trainer can use the laser cutter, in order to prevent unintended damage to the machine, operator, and Noisebridge.<br />
<br />
People that have successfully completed the class:<br />
* Scotty Allen (@scotty) - Trainer<br />
* Darryl McAdams(@augur) - Trainer<br />
* Ruth Grace Wong (@ruthgrace) - Trainer<br />
* Kyle Ng (@kylesewing) - Trainer<br />
* Henner Zeller (@hzeller)<br />
* Adrian Kelly (@akelly)<br />
* Nick Pisaro (@nickp)<br />
* Patrick O'Doherty (@patrickod)<br />
* Jason Bohannon (@jason808)<br />
* John Foote (@rrmutt)<br />
<br />
== How to get trained to use the laser cutter ==<br />
<br />
# Ask a trainer if they will train you<br />
# Schedule a time with the trainer<br />
## The laser training class size is limited to 5 students, so that everyone can see how to operate the laser.<br />
# Get trained<br />
# Get your name on the list of users before the first time you use the machine<br />
<br />
== Basic Safety ==<br />
The laser cutter is generally a very safe machine to use. However, as with all industrial machines, you need to treat it with respect. The main safety concerns are creating fires, hurting your eyes or skin, getting crushed by the machine, and creating toxic fumes.<br />
<br />
The basics:<br />
* ALWAYS WATCH THE LASER BEAM CUTTING YOUR WORK!<br />
* OPEN THE LID if you see a fire<br />
* BLOW IT OUT if the fire keeps burning<br />
* DON'T CUT UNAPPROVED MATERIALS!<br />
<br />
=== Fire ===<br />
<br />
[[Image:Laser_water_estop.jpg|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=Laser cutter with water and estop| The water squirt bottle is sitting on top of the laser, and the estop is the round red button.]]<br />
<br />
You can really hurt yourself or burn the building down with this machine. If you follow the safety rules, the chances of you causing this is close to zero. Some materials are very flammable on the laser cutter, and shouldn't be cut. Never cut an unapproved material, or a material you can't identify. A laser beam can also initiate a fire if the speed of the cut is too slow or the laser power is set too high.<br />
<br />
<br />
Ways to not cause fires:<br />
* ALWAYS WATCH THE LASER CUTTER WHENEVER IT IS CUTTING AS FIRES CAN HAPPEN. The laser affects your material by heating it. Your job can change in seconds with the accumulation of heat in your material. Never leave the room while the laser is in operation. If you leave the laser unattended, your access to the laser cutter will be permanently revoked.<br />
* Use reasonable speed/power settings. Start with the recommended speed/power settings for your material. Be patient - resist the temptation to crank the power and speed to rush through your job. This can cause fires.<br />
** There will be some light when material is cut. This light at the point of lasing may be ok as long as it stays with the motion of the laser. If a flame appears while the laser is in operation, stop your job and try again with lower heat settings.<br />
* Know where the fire extinguisher is in case of a fire. The ONLY fire extinguisher that should be used on the laser cutter is the halotron extinguisher right next to the laser cutter. Other fire extinguishers are corrosive and will ruin the machine.<br />
<br />
How to put out a fire:<br />
* Push the estop. (To turn the machine back on after the estop was hit, you need to switch the power switch on the right hand side of the machine off and on again).<br />
* Open the lid.<br />
* If it's small, try and blow it out.<br />
* If it's smallish, try and squirt it out with the water squirt bottle sitting on the right hand side of the machine.<br />
* If that doesn't work, use the halotron fire extinguisher to the right of the laser cutter. Aim it at the base of the flame.<br />
<br />
=== Damage to eyes and skin ===<br />
The laser beam can instantly and permanently blind you. It can also burn your skin.<br />
* You don't ever want any part of your body in contact with the beam.<br />
* As long as the door is closed, you're safe to look at the laser. There are interlocks on the door that help ensure the laser never operates with the doors open. Don't disable them.<br />
<br />
=== Crushing danger ===<br />
<br />
The laser cutter is a dumb machine. It doesn't care whether your hand is in the way when it's moving. The head can move when the door is open. Always make sure everyone's hands are out of the machine before moving the head.<br />
<br />
Also be very careful not to crash the head into other parts of the machine. Be very careful when moving the z-axis to not crash the head into the bed, and to not move the z-axis if the focus length acrylic circle is under the lens.<br />
<br />
=== Fumes ===<br />
The laser cutter burns the things it's cutting, which can create toxic fumes.<br />
* ONLY CUT APPROVED MATERIALS. Cutting nonapproved materials can release really toxic gases, including chlorine and cyanide. These are really bad for humans, as well as being very damaging to the laser cutter.<br />
* The ventilation fan should always be running if the laser cutter is on, even if it's not cutting. It's currently wired such that you can't turn on the laser cutter without the fan turning on, but please make sure it's running.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Care of the machine ==<br />
<br />
'''Please don't perform any maintenance on the machine (including cleaning lenses/mirrors or aligning mirrors) unless you've specifically trained on it.'''<br />
<br />
The laser cutter is finely calibrated piece of machinery. Please close the lid gently, and do not push or jar the machine at any time. Do not lean or press on the tray - it's fragile, and needs to be perfectly flat for the laser cutter to cut properly. If you take the honeycomb bed or slats out, please be ULTRA CAREFUL with them - put them somewhere where they won't get damaged or warped.<br />
<br />
== Paying for your laser time ==<br />
<br />
The laser cutter has parts that wear out over time, which can be quite costly to replace, especially the laser tube. A new tube costs several thousand dollars. Thus, we require people to pay for the time on the laser they use, so we can pay for new parts. The cost for using the laser cutter is $5 per hour of cutting time.<br />
<br />
To figure out how much time your job takes, press the File button, select your file, and then select Work Time from the menu. It will tell you in hours:minutes.seconds.<br />
<br />
There is a laser cutter donation box on the wall of the Sparkle Forge room. Please pay for the cutting time you actually use, even if you end up running your job multiple times.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Workflows ==<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Overall Workflow ===<br />
<br />
This is the overall structure of the workflow. Each part is elaborated below.<br />
<br />
# Laser start up<br />
# Material setup<br />
# Convert file to DXF<br />
# Load file onto the machine<br />
# Dry run<br />
# Cut/Engrave<br />
# Laser shut down<br />
# Cleanup<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Laser start up ===<br />
<br />
[[Image:Laser_chiller.jpg|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=Laser chiller| The laser chiller is the box on the bottom left of this photograph. If the laser doesn't beep when it turns on, you should turn on the chiller manually.]]<br />
<br />
# Turn on power and ensure that the fan and chiller are running. If you do not hear beeps when the laser starts up, the chiller is not running and you must turn it on.<br />
# Move the head as far forward and right as possible, close to the controls<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Material setup ===<br />
<br />
# Clean the bed of any scraps that may be on it<br />
# Move the cut head as far forward and right as possible (near the controls)<br />
# Raise the laser head as far up as possible<br />
# Raise the bed to the desired height, watching the laser head to avoid crashes<br />
# Move the laser head as far back and right as possible<br />
# Place material on the bed<br />
# Focus the laser (do at least for each distinct thickness, optimally do for each piece of material)<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Focusing the laser ===<br />
<br />
[[Image:Laser_shelf.jpg|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=Shelf by laser cutter | This is the shelf to the left of the laser cutter. The acrylic disks used for focusing the laser are in the toolbox with the yellow lid.]]<br />
<br />
Noisebridge has acryllic disks cut to various thicknesses that can be used to accurately focus the laser. Specifically the laser head needs to be locked to 8mm above the surface of the material you're cutting.<br />
<br />
# Place the material on the cut bed<br />
# Move the cut head to the center of the area to cut, watching the laser head to avoid crashes w/ material<br />
# Loosen the wing nut and raise the head all the way up<br />
# Place the focusing discs on the material under the head<br />
# Lower the head until it just touches the focusing disc (8mm above material)<br />
# Lock the head in place (tighten the wing nut)<br />
# Remove the focusing discs<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Convert an image in Inkscape to a DXF file ===<br />
<br />
# Load the image into Inkscape<br />
# Set the different cut paths to different colors (for controlling settings, etc.)<br />
# Save as a DXF. Be sure to make the units be millimeters so that importing later will correctly scale the image.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Debugging DXF Problems ===<br />
<br />
Sometimes exporting to DXF introduces bizarre extra lines. There are two things to try to debug. The first is to convert objects to paths:<br />
<br />
# Select all the problematic shapes<br />
# Path > Object to Path<br />
<br />
If this fails to resolve the issue, you can try a more radical solution which will eliminate all bezier paths entirely:<br />
<br />
# Select all the problematic shapes<br />
# Convert bezier paths to lines (Extensions > Modify Path > Flatten Bezier).<br />
<br />
Flatness 0.5 is good to start with. Smaller = better approximation of the curves. A lower flatness number takes more time to compute, but also produces a better approximation to the curve.<br />
<br />
Sometimes need to select the path's directly with the path tool (but not the points!).<br />
<br />
=== Loading into the laser cutter software ===<br />
<br />
# Import the file with File > Import<br />
# Resize as needed, tho if the file was exported w/ millimeter units, the software should also import the image with the correct size.<br />
# Set the cut order:<br />
##* EITHER Set the cut order to inside-out (Handle > Cut optimize > Inside to outside)<br />
##* OR Manually specify cut order with the Set cut property tool (Edit > Set cutting property). See below for more details.<br />
# Set the speed and power for the layers as necessary, and the process mode for each layer to either cut (for continuous line cutting) or dot (for dashed line cutting) or scan (for engraving)<br />
# Optionally, simulate the cutting/engraving process.<br />
# Download to the machine (Laser Work panel on the bottom right).<br />
<br />
=== Manually specifying cut order ===<br />
<br />
In the Set cutting property window (Edit > Set cutting property), you can manually re-order the cut paths. In the window, you'll see an image of the workpiece, and to its right, two lists of paths. When you first open the window, all of the cut paths are in the left. If you select a path (either in the image or in the list) and click the button labeled ">>", this path will be transferred to the end of the right list of paths. If you click ">>>", all of the paths in the left list will be moved to the end of the right list (preserving order). Similarly, clicking "<<<" will move the right list to the end of the left list. If you select a cut path in the right list, the up and down arrow buttons will reorder that path in the chosen direction.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Loading speed and power settings from library ===<br />
<br />
# In the top right panel, double click the layer of interest<br />
# Click "Load parameters from library"<br />
# Select the library item<br />
# Click "Load"<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Saving power and speed settings to library ===<br />
<br />
# In the top right panel, double click the layer of interest<br />
# Make sure the layer is set to the desired parameters<br />
# Click "Load parameters from library"<br />
# Click "Save as"<br />
# Enter a name and optionally some notes<br />
# Click "Ok"<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Simulation ===<br />
<br />
# Open the simulation window with either Edit > Preview or the toolbar button labelled with a monitor.<br />
# Click the Simulation button in the right panel<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Cutting ===<br />
<br />
# Select the file to use using the File button<br />
# Move the head to the initial guess origin with the arrow buttons<br />
# Test the frame with the Frame button adjust origin as necessary<br />
# Set the origin by pressing Origin<br />
# Test the cut by turning the laser power off and pressing the Start/Pause button<br />
# Turn the laser power on<br />
# Cut by pressing the Start/Pause button<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Engraving ===<br />
<br />
TODO<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Cancel a cut/dry run ===<br />
<br />
# Pause with the Start/Pause button<br />
# Cancel and move back to the origin with the Esc button<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Laser shut down ===<br />
<br />
# Move the head as far forward and right as possible (near the controls)<br />
# Raise the laser head as far up as possible<br />
# Let the fan run for a little bit (~30 seconds)<br />
# Turn the power off<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Cleanup ===<br />
<br />
[[Image:Laser_tray.jpg|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=Laser bottom tray| This is the bottom tray of the laser, which should be cleaned out after use.]]<br />
<br />
# Remove pieces of material scrap left on the bed<br />
# Open the tray door on the front bottom and empty the scraps left there<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Calculating work time ===<br />
<br />
On the computer:<br />
<br />
* Open the simulation window (see above). Total work time and time of laser use are displayed in the top right. Donations should be calculated by laser use, not total work time.<br />
<br />
On the machine:<br />
<br />
* Whole file: File > Select file > Right Arrow > Work Time > Enter<br />
* Current run: Pause the cut, then check time at the bottom right<br />
<br />
== Fusion 360 ==<br />
Fusion 360 is a free CAD (Computer Aided Design) program from Autodesk for designing 3D parts, and arguably the best one currently available. If you're designing something complex on the laser cutter, particularly with multiple parts that need to fit together, I highly recommend it over drawing programs like Inkscape. It also has CAM (Computer Aided Manufacturing) capabilities, which makes it very useful for CNC machining and laser cutting. There's a copy of the software on the laser cutter computer, and you can download it [http://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview here]. It's free as long as you make less than $100k per year using it.<br />
<br />
=== Workflow 1: The Quick and Dirty Way ===<br />
This is the fastest way, and works a lot of the time<br />
# Make sure your sketch only contains straight lines, arcs, and circles, and no spline curves. If your sketch has splines, go to [[#Workflow 3: The Long Way]]<br />
# Make sure your part is designed using a single sketch, and that you want to cut all the lines in that sketch. If not, go to [[#Workflow 2: The Middle Ground]]<br />
# Right click on your sketch and click Save As DXF<br />
# Import the DXF in RDWorks, and continue with the standard workflow starting at [[#Loading into the laser cutter software]]<br />
<br />
=== Workflow 2: The Middle Ground ===<br />
If you're not sure, this is probably where you should start.<br />
# Make sure your sketch only contains straight lines, arcs, and circles, and no spline curves. If your sketch has splines, go to [[#Workflow 3: The Long Way]]<br />
# Right click on the top surface of the part you want to cut, and click Create Sketch<br />
# Hit the P key to open the Project dialog box, then select the top surface of your part, and any other lines you want to cut<br />
# Hit OK, then remove any lines you don't want cut<br />
# Open the Sketches folder near the top of the tree, then right click your new sketch and click Save As DXF<br />
# Import the DXF in RDWorks, and continue with the standard workflow starting at [[#Loading into the laser cutter software]]<br />
<br />
=== Workflow 3: The Long Way ===<br />
This allows more complicated things like exporting splines, which doesn't work with the above methods, kerf compensation, which makes your parts fit together snugly, but you can also use the above methods and then do it in RDWorks, or lead-ins and lead-outs, which can make for a cleaner cut, but I can't figure out how to get RDWorks to import correctly.<br />
# Design a part to be laser cut by drawing a 2D sketch and extruding it<br />
# Go to the CAM workspace by clicking the Model button in the top left, then selecting CAM<br />
# Select the Waterjet operation (if you don't see this, turn it on under Preferences -> Preview)<br />
## Set Type to Laser Cutting<br />
## Select the Cutting Mode, either Through - Auto or Etch<br />
## Look up the kerf of the material you're cutting in the [[#Known good materials]] section, and enter that in Kerf Width, or if your material's not listed, cut one a [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1166680 kerf gauge] and put the result in the wiki. The kerf changes depending on the thickness, speed and power. Setting a larger kerf width will make your parts fit tighter, and setting a smaller kerf will make them looser.<br />
## Select the contours of your part that you want to cut<br />
## Go to the Passes tab, and change Compensation Type to In Computer<br />
## Hit OK to close the dialog box, and you can see a preview of your tool path. You can go back to edit it by double clicking the contour operation in the tree on the left<br />
# To export to DXF, click the Post Process button, which says G1 G2. Make sure rdworkslaser is selected as your post processor, type a name for the export and hit Post. Then select the folder to put it in.<br />
# Import the DXF in RDWorks, and continue with the standard workflow starting at [[#Loading into the laser cutter software]]<br />
# Fusion automatically orders the cuts from inside out and in the fastest order, but RDWorks doesn't always respect that order, so you may need to optimize the cut order again<br />
<br />
=== Advanced Options ===<br />
# If you're using your own computer for the first time and not the laser cutter desktop, you have to enable the laser cutter support which is still in beta, by clicking on your name in the top right, then Preferences, Preview, and checking "CAM - Waterjet/Laser/Plasma cutter support". You will also need to download the custom post processor that we use for this laser.<br />
# There's a simulate button to the left of the Post Process button, if you want to do it in Fusion<br />
# If you want to disable or tweak the lead ins and lead outs, you can go to the Linking tab. Lead ins and lead outs can fix the bump you get on the side of your part where the laser started and stopped, but they also make extra cuts in your scrap material, which you may want to keep. In this tab you can also specify the Entry Position for each cut path.<br />
# You can disable Kerf Compensation by settting Sideways Compensation to Center under the Passes tab, though this is not recommended<br />
<br />
<br />
== Techniques ==<br />
<br />
=== Text Cutting ===<br />
<br />
Engraved text requires no special technique because no cuts are made, but text cutting is non-trivial. Because of loops, it's sometimes desirable to use a stencil font, especially at smaller scales where legibility is important. 1001 fonts has a number of stencil fonts for free. At 10pt, some good fonts are Marsh, Spacedock, and Allerta.<br />
<br />
=== Negative Space Engraving ===<br />
<br />
You can engrave a vector shape with a hole in the middle of it, so that you get enclosed portions that are not engraved in the middle of fully engraved portions. To do this, when you construct the image in your editor of choice, simply perform subtraction between the relevant paths, to remove the inner part. In the RDWorks laser software, the two paths will show up, and be independently editable (making them look like just two distinct paths to engrave), but they will engrave correctly as a negative space. Obviously test this w/ your software; this technique is known to work using Inkscape.<br />
<br />
=== Kerf Compensation ===<br />
<br />
For any given layer, you can compensate for the kerf (width of the cut) by opening it's settings and clicking the "Advance" button next to the "Seal" input box towards the middle-bottom. Enable sew compensation, and pick the direction and sew width (kerf size). The inward direction will make the actual cut move toward the inside of a closed cut path, outward will move it towards the outside.<br />
<br />
In general, for cuts on the outside, you want to move outward, to move the actual cut edge be exactly where the path is in your design. For cuts on the inside, you want to use the inward direction.<br />
<br />
== Maintenance==<br />
<br />
'''Please don't perform any maintenance on the machine (including cleaning lenses/mirrors or aligning mirrors) unless you've specifically trained on it.'''<br />
<br />
* TEMP note: some check(s) may be included outside of maintenance so a user can trigger a maintenance notification<br />
* DON'T - let someone who has been trained do it<br />
* how to tell if the lens is dirty (or getting old?)<br />
* how to tell if the mirrors are dirty<br />
** Cleaning the mirrors<br />
*** ethanol solution? isopropanol? - see manual.<br />
*** fabric must be non scratch - see manual.<br />
* Checking and performing mirror alignment<br />
** Safety - remove gratings and any other reflective surfaces before any maintenance that requires disabling the door sensors.<br />
** TEMP note: in restrospect the alignment was a very dangerous situation. mirror paths were not checked before powering on the laser with the door open with many people around. (or maybe nigel is just insanely good at configuring mirrors... still... reddit.com/r/OSHA)<br />
** Tape test - mirrors 1,2,3 and their corresponding exits. Slightly propped laser tube.<br />
** vertical/horizontal alignment by brass dial.<br />
* Checking chiller tank water volume<br />
** Chiller alarm - what does it mean<br />
** Checking tank water volume<br />
** Refilling tank water<br />
* Cleaning the bed and waste drawer (this section probably should be moved to usage)<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Signs:<br />
* <strike>Don't open front/back passthrough doors (for now)</strike><br />
* <strike>Fire extinguishers - which to use for what fire</strike><br />
* Approved materials<br />
* <strike>careful when raising bed, dont crash into laser head</strike><br />
* move laser head out of the way before opening the lid<br />
* power off the laser before opening the lid ???<br />
* <strike>watch the laser while it is cutting</strike><br />
<br />
<br />
Todos:<br />
* <strike>Move the machine further away from the right wall so we can get to the power switch.</strike><br />
* <strike>label the water squirt bottle as for fires and not to remove</strike><br />
* acquire piece of copper for chlorine materials test<br />
* acquire vinyl record for testing<br />
* acquire propane bottle and nozzle<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
material notes<br />
* material selection - approved materials list<br />
** nothing that generates hazerdous fumes, particularly chlorine/formeldahyde<br />
** no aluminum or other metals (?? ryan claims these can be safely engraved in this machine)<br />
** nothing reflective<br />
** size constraints<br />
* laser configuration - power, speed<br />
** table of recommmended settings for various materials<br />
<br />
How to get a new/novel material approved<br />
* consensus process<br />
* chlorine test<br />
<br />
== Chlorine material test ==<br />
<br />
Before you cut any new material you *must* check that it is safe to cut; specifically that it will not produce chlorine gas when it is burned by the cutting laser. Chlorine is extremely dangerous in its gaseous form and so must be avoided at all costs. <br />
<br />
To test a new material, you'll need a sample of the material, a small copper rod (about the thickness of a coat hanger), a pliars, and a handheld propane torch. We'll test for the presence of chlorine by burning a sample of the material in a high temperature propane flame and observe the visible emission spectra. Chrlorine produces a bright green light when burned, and so will be very obvious when you're testing your material.<br />
<br />
First, light the propane torch and set it to rest upright on a stable surface. Taking the pliar, hold the piece of copper in the blue part of the flame to heat it. As the copper begins to heat sufficiently it'll cause the flame to turn an orange color. A consistent orange color means that the copper has no residue material on its surface and so is clean enough to use as a test. If you observe non-orange flames when you burn the copper you may need to clean in further, either by waiting for the excess material to burn off, or by scrubbing the surface of the copper when it has cooled.<br />
<br />
Once the copper is burning, take the hot copper and melt a sample of the new material onto it. For example if you were testing a new form of plastic you can roll the hot copper rod on the material, melting some of it onto the copper rod's surface.<br />
<br />
With this done, place the copper rod back into the blue part of the flame. Observe the colors of the emission spectra from the new material burning. If you observe a bright green color, then the material contains chlorine and thus *must not* be burned further. Ventilate your surrounding area to avoid breathing it in. If you observe no green color as you burn your material sample, then the material is likely safe to use with the laser cutter.<br />
<br />
Here is a video example by Zach in NYCResistor with a known good and known bad material: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D0_4NLmeSTI<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== BANNED MATERIALS (NEVER USE THESE) ==<br />
<br />
These materials '''must not be used in the laser cutter'''. <br />
<br />
{|border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"<br />
|-<br />
! colspan="10" bgcolor="#ccc" | Bad materials<br />
|-<br />
! Material<br />
! Notes<br />
|-<br />
| PVC || Contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br />
|-<br />
| Vinyl || Most contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br />
|- <br />
| PVC Foams || Most contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br />
|- <br />
| Foam Core || Usually made with PVC which is harmful as listed above. <br />
|- <br />
| Styrofoam || Can cause flash fires<br />
|-<br />
| Polycarbonate or PETG || Does not cut. TAP plastics sells both this and acrylic. '''Be sure to read your labels when purchasing material'''. Lexan is the trade name for Polycarbonate, while Plexiglass is the trade name for acrylic.<br />
|- <br />
| ABS || Gives of hydrogen cyanide<br />
|- <br />
| Fiberglass ||<br />
|- <br />
| Metals || Cannot be etched by this type of laser. Also is harmful as the reflective surface may cause the laser to be reflected back up to the head, damaging it. If someone claims to be etching metal using this type of laser then they are etching a metal with a plastic coating, anodized surface, or some other etchable surface on top.<br />
<br />
|}<br />
<br />
== Known good materials ==<br />
<br />
These materials are known to be ok for use with the laser cutter. The speed and power of the laser cutter will need to be set appropriately for the material and thickness in use. Below is a table showing the suggested settings when cutting or etching them.<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" <br />
|-<br />
! colspan="10" bgcolor="#cccccc" | Cardboards/Papers<br />
|-<br />
! rowspan="2" | Material<br />
! colspan="3" | Engraving <br />
! colspan="3" | Cutting<br />
! colspan="2" | Scoring<br />
! rowspan="1" | Notes<br />
|-<br />
! Speed (mm/s) !! Power !! DPI !! Speed (mm/s) !! Power !! Kerf Width !! Speed !! Power ||<br />
|-<br />
|-<br />
<br />
|-<br />
| Acrylic (clear, 3mm) || || || || 20 || 55% || || || ||<br />
<br />
|-<br />
| Acrylic (clear, 12.5mm) || || || || 3 || 55% || || || || Focal length is 4mm<br />
<br />
|-<br />
| Acrylic (clear, 18mm) || || || || 6 || 55% || || || || Focal length is 4mm; cuts require three passes, don't move piece between passes<br />
<br />
|-<br />
| Cardboard (4mm) || || || || 50 || 15% || || 50 mm/s || 5% || Minimum line separation at 50/15 ~ 1/2mm<br />
<br />
|-<br />
| Plywood (3mm) || 400mm/s || 5-55% || 500-2000 || 35 || 50% || 0.0007 in || || || see reference in toolbox for engraving<br />
<br />
|-<br />
| Plywood (5.6mm) || 400mm/s || 5-55% || 500-2000 || 15 || 55% || 0.002 in || || || see reference in toolbox for engraving<br />
<br />
|-<br />
| Birch (4.8mm) || || || || 35 || 55% || || || || <br />
<br />
|}<br />
<br />
The [[Laser Gallery]] contains some past projects and cutting tests.<br />
<br />
== Sourcing Material ==<br />
<br />
In general, you can get stuff form Amazon, but you have to wait for shipping.<br />
<br />
For plastics: [http://www.google.com/maps/place/TAP+Plastics/@37.7711648,-122.4207603,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f7e27351bb079:0x7e3610d7dc178b10!8m2!3d37.7711648!4d-122.4185663 Tap Plastics] is nearby Noisebridge, but is expensive, [http://eplastics.com eplastics] is cheaper but you need to wait for shipping, and [https://www.google.com/maps/place/Mr.+Plastics/@37.7091519,-122.1546962,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f8fe7938349a3:0xafcb2526326faccd!8m2!3d37.7091519!4d-122.1525022 Mr. Plastics] is cheapest but is in San Leandro.<br />
<br />
For woods: [http://www.google.com/maps/place/Discount+Builders+Supply/@37.7704879,-122.4191311,15z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0x3c0d6c6e25a89652?sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjV87WU-JzOAhUI6WMKHSPABOUQ_BIIeTAK Discount Builder Supply] is nearby.</div>Scottyhttps://www.noisebridge.net/index.php?title=Talk:Donate_or_Pay_Dues&diff=53261Talk:Donate or Pay Dues2016-08-08T03:40:09Z<p>Scotty: Undo revision 53253 by Arnady (talk)</p>
<hr />
<div>Stupid button doesn't link right.<br />
<br />
[[Image:Donatebutton.png|link=https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr?cmd=_donations&business=noisebridge23%40gmail%2ecom&lc=US&item_name=Noisebridge&currency_code=USD&bn=PP%2dDonationsBF%3abtn_donateCC_LG%2egif%3aNonHostedGuest|alt=Alt text|Title text]]<br />
<br />
--[[User:Rubin110|Rubin110]] 16:40, 7 August 2009 (PDT)<br />
<br />
WePay is no more. Perhaps we should remove the link from this page.<br />
<br />
[[User:Bfb|Bfb]] ([[User talk:Bfb|talk]])<br />
<br />
== Changing Noisebridge's Bitcoin Address ==<br />
<br />
-----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----<br />
Hash: SHA1<br />
<br />
Hey all,<br />
<br />
Patrick O'Doherty here. As per Danny's email to nb-discuss https://www.noisebridge.net/pipermail/noisebridge-discuss/2014-December/045662.html<br />
we're looking to change the Noisebridge Bitcoin address to facilitate easier exchange of BTC for USD, as Noisebridge has a need for cash monies.<br />
<br />
The new address for the Noisebridge wallet is 1KxVgNmPdTyePLw27iixbH9yrRhNH7UfdK<br />
<br />
It'd be fantastic to have the new bitcoin address listed on the Donate page.<br />
<br />
If someone w/ admin rights on the wiki could update it that'd be great.<br />
<br />
P<br />
-----BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE-----<br />
Version: GnuPG/MacGPG2 v2.0.22 (Darwin)<br />
<br />
iQEcBAEBAgAGBQJUhRzxAAoJEDmK3FRpXKVGIqkH/1x6yO+s8mEd7p+JvSJpbvu2<br />
TUlZdSE/nm8dbQfAaboYKqOAFqbIyVk9ss0JMLp/ktxoSTmlZuUZpOGYGj9QFYs5<br />
KQNkWEdxoKTW7e9N6NyOY9q5MP+Kr8fR8J5IUPQWB7dRBdnmOzQqaaOrhLKAht2w<br />
vapSDfKefDrhcHT9WTKC1ZBZwl6PvD38E62l0MTbmDU4Y5FRiJ6dvjxNxsDyDnON<br />
e1HTUbZeAgZZF7++Mv3YVFVZcNGimZMXjj/e/PjbzQNYIGc0jvH5XxqeraQcvykD<br />
KYdtKXvEe26TZusG1fgwvu78OksgZGwGzYJu75tNjc16e0YjO9qHW9M1ZlKCfSo=<br />
=xwME<br />
-----END PGP SIGNATURE-----<br />
<br />
== Is PayPal-reliance such a good idea? ==<br />
<br />
For those desired recurring donations of $10/mo, $30/mo, $60/mo, and $100/mo, is it really best to rely on PayPal??<br><br />
There '''continue''' to be a lot of highly negative things abt PayPal, as seen in at least these three sites:<br><br />
- [[http://www.paypalsucks.com/ PayPal Problems & PayPal Answers]]<br><br />
- [[https://www.facebook.com/NoPayPal NoPayPal on Facebook]]<br><br />
- [[http://www.paypalsucks.com/ PayPal Complaints, PayPal Customer Service & eBay Suspension Complaints]]<br><br />
<br />
Negatives expressed herein are likely keeping ''some'' donors away from Noisebridge and away from other institutions that rely on PayPal for extra incoming funds. At least these facts are coming to ''someone's'' attention. <br />
<br />
[[Special:Contributions/77.244.254.230|77.244.254.230]] 13:08, 22 January 2015 (UTC)<br />
<br><br />
---------------------------------<br />
Yeah, awesome point about PayFoe. <br />
And directed toward [https://noisebridge.net/wiki/User:Maltman23 Mitch] and the other fundraising working-groupies so much in bed with PayFoe:<br><br />
Does like PF waive all its fees or offer some super steep discount to the space under NB's status as a 501(c)(3)??<br><br />
And has PF made any significant monetary donations to the space during the current fundraising drive??<br><br />
You'll all eventually answer these questions one way or another...<br />
<br />
[[Special:Contributions/82.211.223.3|82.211.223.3]] 19:24, 22 January 2015 (UTC)<br />
<br />
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<br />
== New donation idea ==<br />
<br />
Convert the vending machines into reward bins for donating to noisebridge. Think of a reward for each denomination of dollar:<br />
<br />
* $5 gets you a set of stickers<br />
* $10 dated membership card for showing at the door with the rules on the back.<br />
* $20 ?<br />
* $50 gets you a NB t-shirt (multiple lanes for size)<br />
* $100 gets you an especially nice, laser-cut (or engraved) goodie or maybe a [[fob]] whose key will last until the end of the month.<br />
<br />
Cheers. Mark (from [[Meeting_Notes_2016_08_02]]).</div>Scottyhttps://www.noisebridge.net/index.php?title=Gaming&diff=53260Gaming2016-08-08T03:39:57Z<p>Scotty: Undo revision 53252 by Arnady (talk)</p>
<hr />
<div>Gaming is fine use of hacker spaces. Role-playing games in particular develop the imagination and ability to improvise. Excellent skills for hackers.<br />
<br />
Noisebridge has a perfect table on which to play (the "square") and a very nice collection of RPG materials, particularly [[D&D]]. <br />
[[Category:Games]]</div>Scottyhttps://www.noisebridge.net/index.php?title=Laser_Manual&diff=53259Laser Manual2016-08-08T03:39:26Z<p>Scotty: Undo revision 53254 by Arnady (talk)</p>
<hr />
<div>== Contact list ==<br />
<br />
=== Trainers ===<br />
<br />
* Scotty Allen (@scotty on slack)<br />
* Darryl (@augur on slack)<br />
* Ruth Grace (@ruthgrace on slack)<br />
* Kyle (@kylesewing on slack)<br />
<br />
== Who can use the laser cutter ==<br />
<br />
Only people who have been trained by an official trainer can use the laser cutter, in order to prevent unintended damage to the machine, operator, and Noisebridge.<br />
<br />
People that have successfully completed the class:<br />
* Scotty Allen (@scotty) - Trainer<br />
* Darryl McAdams(@augur) - Trainer<br />
* Ruth Grace Wong (@ruthgrace) - Trainer<br />
* Kyle Ng (@kylesewing) - Trainer<br />
* Henner Zeller (@hzeller)<br />
* Adrian Kelly (@akelly)<br />
* Nick Pisaro (@nickp)<br />
* Patrick O'Doherty (@patrickod)<br />
* Jason<br />
<br />
== How to get trained to use the laser cutter ==<br />
<br />
# Ask a trainer if they will train you<br />
# Schedule a time with the trainer<br />
## The laser training class size is limited to 5 students, so that everyone can see how to operate the laser.<br />
# Get trained<br />
# Get your name on the list of users before the first time you use the machine<br />
<br />
== Basic Safety ==<br />
The laser cutter is generally a very safe machine to use. However, as with all industrial machines, you need to treat it with respect. The main safety concerns are creating fires, hurting your eyes or skin, getting crushed by the machine, and creating toxic fumes.<br />
<br />
The basics:<br />
* ALWAYS WATCH THE LASER BEAM CUTTING YOUR WORK!<br />
* OPEN THE LID if you see a fire<br />
* BLOW IT OUT if the fire keeps burning<br />
* DON'T CUT UNAPPROVED MATERIALS!<br />
<br />
=== Fire ===<br />
<br />
[[Image:Laser_water_estop.jpg|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=Laser cutter with water and estop| The water squirt bottle is sitting on top of the laser, and the estop is the round red button.]]<br />
<br />
You can really hurt yourself or burn the building down with this machine. If you follow the safety rules, the chances of you causing this is close to zero. Some materials are very flammable on the laser cutter, and shouldn't be cut. Never cut an unapproved material, or a material you can't identify. A laser beam can also initiate a fire if the speed of the cut is too slow or the laser power is set too high.<br />
<br />
<br />
Ways to not cause fires:<br />
* ALWAYS WATCH THE LASER CUTTER WHENEVER IT IS CUTTING AS FIRES CAN HAPPEN. The laser affects your material by heating it. Your job can change in seconds with the accumulation of heat in your material. Never leave the room while the laser is in operation. If you leave the laser unattended, your access to the laser cutter will be permanently revoked.<br />
* Use reasonable speed/power settings. Start with the recommended speed/power settings for your material. Be patient - resist the temptation to crank the power and speed to rush through your job. This can cause fires.<br />
** There will be some light when material is cut. This light at the point of lasing may be ok as long as it stays with the motion of the laser. If a flame appears while the laser is in operation, stop your job and try again with lower heat settings.<br />
* Know where the fire extinguisher is in case of a fire. The ONLY fire extinguisher that should be used on the laser cutter is the halotron extinguisher right next to the laser cutter. Other fire extinguishers are corrosive and will ruin the machine.<br />
<br />
How to put out a fire:<br />
* Push the estop. (To turn the machine back on after the estop was hit, you need to switch the power switch on the right hand side of the machine off and on again).<br />
* Open the lid.<br />
* If it's small, try and blow it out.<br />
* If it's smallish, try and squirt it out with the water squirt bottle sitting on the right hand side of the machine.<br />
* If that doesn't work, use the halotron fire extinguisher to the right of the laser cutter. Aim it at the base of the flame.<br />
<br />
=== Damage to eyes and skin ===<br />
The laser beam can instantly and permanently blind you. It can also burn your skin.<br />
* You don't ever want any part of your body in contact with the beam.<br />
* As long as the door is closed, you're safe to look at the laser. There are interlocks on the door that help ensure the laser never operates with the doors open. Don't disable them.<br />
<br />
=== Crushing danger ===<br />
<br />
The laser cutter is a dumb machine. It doesn't care whether your hand is in the way when it's moving. The head can move when the door is open. Always make sure everyone's hands are out of the machine before moving the head.<br />
<br />
Also be very careful not to crash the head into other parts of the machine. Be very careful when moving the z-axis to not crash the head into the bed, and to not move the z-axis if the focus length acrylic circle is under the lens.<br />
<br />
=== Fumes ===<br />
The laser cutter burns the things it's cutting, which can create toxic fumes.<br />
* ONLY CUT APPROVED MATERIALS. Cutting nonapproved materials can release really toxic gases, including chlorine and cyanide. These are really bad for humans, as well as being very damaging to the laser cutter.<br />
* The ventilation fan should always be running if the laser cutter is on, even if it's not cutting. It's currently wired such that you can't turn on the laser cutter without the fan turning on, but please make sure it's running.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Care of the machine ==<br />
<br />
'''Please don't perform any maintenance on the machine (including cleaning lenses/mirrors or aligning mirrors) unless you've specifically trained on it.'''<br />
<br />
The laser cutter is finely calibrated piece of machinery. Please close the lid gently, and do not push or jar the machine at any time. Do not lean or press on the tray - it's fragile, and needs to be perfectly flat for the laser cutter to cut properly. If you take the honeycomb bed or slats out, please be ULTRA CAREFUL with them - put them somewhere where they won't get damaged or warped.<br />
<br />
== Paying for your laser time ==<br />
<br />
The laser cutter has parts that wear out over time, which can be quite costly to replace, especially the laser tube. A new tube costs several thousand dollars. Thus, we require people to pay for the time on the laser they use, so we can pay for new parts. The cost for using the laser cutter is $5 per hour of cutting time.<br />
<br />
To figure out how much time your job takes, press the File button, select your file, and then select Work Time from the menu. It will tell you in hours:minutes.seconds.<br />
<br />
There is a laser cutter donation box on the wall of the Sparkle Forge room. Please pay for the cutting time you actually use, even if you end up running your job multiple times.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Workflows ==<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Overall Workflow ===<br />
<br />
This is the overall structure of the workflow. Each part is elaborated below.<br />
<br />
# Laser start up<br />
# Material setup<br />
# Convert file to DXF<br />
# Load file onto the machine<br />
# Dry run<br />
# Cut/Engrave<br />
# Laser shut down<br />
# Cleanup<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Laser start up ===<br />
<br />
[[Image:Laser_chiller.jpg|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=Laser chiller| The laser chiller is the box on the bottom left of this photograph. If the laser doesn't beep when it turns on, you should turn on the chiller manually.]]<br />
<br />
# Turn on power and ensure that the fan and chiller are running. If you do not hear beeps when the laser starts up, the chiller is not running and you must turn it on.<br />
# Move the head as far forward and right as possible, close to the controls<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Material setup ===<br />
<br />
# Clean the bed of any scraps that may be on it<br />
# Move the cut head as far forward and right as possible (near the controls)<br />
# Raise the laser head as far up as possible<br />
# Raise the bed to the desired height, watching the laser head to avoid crashes<br />
# Move the laser head as far back and right as possible<br />
# Place material on the bed<br />
# Focus the laser (do at least for each distinct thickness, optimally do for each piece of material)<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Focusing the laser ===<br />
<br />
[[Image:Laser_shelf.jpg|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=Shelf by laser cutter | This is the shelf to the left of the laser cutter. The acrylic disks used for focusing the laser are in the toolbox with the yellow lid.]]<br />
<br />
Noisebridge has acryllic disks cut to various thicknesses that can be used to accurately focus the laser. Specifically the laser head needs to be locked to 8mm above the surface of the material you're cutting.<br />
<br />
# Place the material on the cut bed<br />
# Move the cut head to the center of the area to cut, watching the laser head to avoid crashes w/ material<br />
# Loosen the wing nut and raise the head all the way up<br />
# Place the focusing discs on the material under the head<br />
# Lower the head until it just touches the focusing disc (8mm above material)<br />
# Lock the head in place (tighten the wing nut)<br />
# Remove the focusing discs<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Convert an image in Inkscape to a DXF file ===<br />
<br />
# Load the image into Inkscape<br />
# Set the different cut paths to different colors (for controlling settings, etc.)<br />
# Save as a DXF. Be sure to make the units be millimeters so that importing later will correctly scale the image.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Debugging DXF Problems ===<br />
<br />
Sometimes exporting to DXF introduces bizarre extra lines. There are two things to try to debug. The first is to convert objects to paths:<br />
<br />
# Select all the problematic shapes<br />
# Path > Object to Path<br />
<br />
If this fails to resolve the issue, you can try a more radical solution which will eliminate all bezier paths entirely:<br />
<br />
# Select all the problematic shapes<br />
# Convert bezier paths to lines (Extensions > Modify Path > Flatten Bezier).<br />
<br />
Flatness 0.5 is good to start with. Smaller = better approximation of the curves. A lower flatness number takes more time to compute, but also produces a better approximation to the curve.<br />
<br />
Sometimes need to select the path's directly with the path tool (but not the points!).<br />
<br />
=== Loading into the laser cutter software ===<br />
<br />
# Import the file with File > Import<br />
# Resize as needed, tho if the file was exported w/ millimeter units, the software should also import the image with the correct size.<br />
# Set the cut order:<br />
##* EITHER Set the cut order to inside-out (Handle > Cut optimize > Inside to outside)<br />
##* OR Manually specify cut order with the Set cut property tool (Edit > Set cutting property). See below for more details.<br />
# Set the speed and power for the layers as necessary, and the process mode for each layer to either cut (for continuous line cutting) or dot (for dashed line cutting) or scan (for engraving)<br />
# Optionally, simulate the cutting/engraving process.<br />
# Download to the machine (Laser Work panel on the bottom right).<br />
<br />
=== Manually specifying cut order ===<br />
<br />
In the Set cutting property window (Edit > Set cutting property), you can manually re-order the cut paths. In the window, you'll see an image of the workpiece, and to its right, two lists of paths. When you first open the window, all of the cut paths are in the left. If you select a path (either in the image or in the list) and click the button labeled ">>", this path will be transferred to the end of the right list of paths. If you click ">>>", all of the paths in the left list will be moved to the end of the right list (preserving order). Similarly, clicking "<<<" will move the right list to the end of the left list. If you select a cut path in the right list, the up and down arrow buttons will reorder that path in the chosen direction.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Loading speed and power settings from library ===<br />
<br />
# In the top right panel, double click the layer of interest<br />
# Click "Load parameters from library"<br />
# Select the library item<br />
# Click "Load"<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Saving power and speed settings to library ===<br />
<br />
# In the top right panel, double click the layer of interest<br />
# Make sure the layer is set to the desired parameters<br />
# Click "Load parameters from library"<br />
# Click "Save as"<br />
# Enter a name and optionally some notes<br />
# Click "Ok"<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Simulation ===<br />
<br />
# Open the simulation window with either Edit > Preview or the toolbar button labelled with a monitor.<br />
# Click the Simulation button in the right panel<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Cutting ===<br />
<br />
# Select the file to use using the File button<br />
# Move the head to the initial guess origin with the arrow buttons<br />
# Test the frame with the Frame button adjust origin as necessary<br />
# Set the origin by pressing Origin<br />
# Test the cut by turning the laser power off and pressing the Start/Pause button<br />
# Turn the laser power on<br />
# Cut by pressing the Start/Pause button<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Engraving ===<br />
<br />
TODO<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Cancel a cut/dry run ===<br />
<br />
# Pause with the Start/Pause button<br />
# Cancel and move back to the origin with the Esc button<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Laser shut down ===<br />
<br />
# Move the head as far forward and right as possible (near the controls)<br />
# Raise the laser head as far up as possible<br />
# Let the fan run for a little bit (~30 seconds)<br />
# Turn the power off<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Cleanup ===<br />
<br />
[[Image:Laser_tray.jpg|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=Laser bottom tray| This is the bottom tray of the laser, which should be cleaned out after use.]]<br />
<br />
# Remove pieces of material scrap left on the bed<br />
# Open the tray door on the front bottom and empty the scraps left there<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Calculating work time ===<br />
<br />
On the computer:<br />
<br />
* Open the simulation window (see above). Total work time and time of laser use are displayed in the top right. Donations should be calculated by laser use, not total work time.<br />
<br />
On the machine:<br />
<br />
* Whole file: File > Select file > Right Arrow > Work Time > Enter<br />
* Current run: Pause the cut, then check time at the bottom right<br />
<br />
== Fusion 360 ==<br />
Fusion 360 is a free CAD (Computer Aided Design) program from Autodesk for designing 3D parts, and arguably the best one currently available. If you're designing something complex on the laser cutter, particularly with multiple parts that need to fit together, I highly recommend it over drawing programs like Inkscape. It also has CAM (Computer Aided Manufacturing) capabilities, which makes it very useful for CNC machining and laser cutting. There's a copy of the software on the laser cutter computer, and you can download it [http://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview here]. It's free as long as you make less than $100k per year using it.<br />
<br />
=== Workflow 1: The Quick and Dirty Way ===<br />
This is the fastest way, and works a lot of the time<br />
# Make sure your sketch only contains straight lines, arcs, and circles, and no spline curves. If your sketch has splines, go to [[#Workflow 3: The Long Way]]<br />
# Make sure your part is designed using a single sketch, and that you want to cut all the lines in that sketch. If not, go to [[#Workflow 2: The Middle Ground]]<br />
# Right click on your sketch and click Save As DXF<br />
# Import the DXF in RDWorks, and continue with the standard workflow starting at [[#Loading into the laser cutter software]]<br />
<br />
=== Workflow 2: The Middle Ground ===<br />
If you're not sure, this is probably where you should start.<br />
# Make sure your sketch only contains straight lines, arcs, and circles, and no spline curves. If your sketch has splines, go to [[#Workflow 3: The Long Way]]<br />
# Right click on the top surface of the part you want to cut, and click Create Sketch<br />
# Hit the P key to open the Project dialog box, then select the top surface of your part, and any other lines you want to cut<br />
# Hit OK, then remove any lines you don't want cut<br />
# Open the Sketches folder near the top of the tree, then right click your new sketch and click Save As DXF<br />
# Import the DXF in RDWorks, and continue with the standard workflow starting at [[#Loading into the laser cutter software]]<br />
<br />
=== Workflow 3: The Long Way ===<br />
This allows more complicated things like exporting splines, which doesn't work with the above methods, kerf compensation, which makes your parts fit together snugly, but you can also use the above methods and then do it in RDWorks, or lead-ins and lead-outs, which can make for a cleaner cut, but I can't figure out how to get RDWorks to import correctly.<br />
# Design a part to be laser cut by drawing a 2D sketch and extruding it<br />
# Go to the CAM workspace by clicking the Model button in the top left, then selecting CAM<br />
# Select the Waterjet operation (if you don't see this, turn it on under Preferences -> Preview)<br />
## Set Type to Laser Cutting<br />
## Select the Cutting Mode, either Through - Auto or Etch<br />
## Look up the kerf of the material you're cutting in the [[#Known good materials]] section, and enter that in Kerf Width, or if your material's not listed, cut one a [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1166680 kerf gauge] and put the result in the wiki. The kerf changes depending on the thickness, speed and power. Setting a larger kerf width will make your parts fit tighter, and setting a smaller kerf will make them looser.<br />
## Select the contours of your part that you want to cut<br />
## Go to the Passes tab, and change Compensation Type to In Computer<br />
## Hit OK to close the dialog box, and you can see a preview of your tool path. You can go back to edit it by double clicking the contour operation in the tree on the left<br />
# To export to DXF, click the Post Process button, which says G1 G2. Make sure rdworkslaser is selected as your post processor, type a name for the export and hit Post. Then select the folder to put it in.<br />
# Import the DXF in RDWorks, and continue with the standard workflow starting at [[#Loading into the laser cutter software]]<br />
# Fusion automatically orders the cuts from inside out and in the fastest order, but RDWorks doesn't always respect that order, so you may need to optimize the cut order again<br />
<br />
=== Advanced Options ===<br />
# If you're using your own computer for the first time and not the laser cutter desktop, you have to enable the laser cutter support which is still in beta, by clicking on your name in the top right, then Preferences, Preview, and checking "CAM - Waterjet/Laser/Plasma cutter support". You will also need to download the custom post processor that we use for this laser.<br />
# There's a simulate button to the left of the Post Process button, if you want to do it in Fusion<br />
# If you want to disable or tweak the lead ins and lead outs, you can go to the Linking tab. Lead ins and lead outs can fix the bump you get on the side of your part where the laser started and stopped, but they also make extra cuts in your scrap material, which you may want to keep. In this tab you can also specify the Entry Position for each cut path.<br />
# You can disable Kerf Compensation by settting Sideways Compensation to Center under the Passes tab, though this is not recommended<br />
<br />
<br />
== Techniques ==<br />
<br />
=== Text Cutting ===<br />
<br />
Engraved text requires no special technique because no cuts are made, but text cutting is non-trivial. Because of loops, it's sometimes desirable to use a stencil font, especially at smaller scales where legibility is important. 1001 fonts has a number of stencil fonts for free. At 10pt, some good fonts are Marsh, Spacedock, and Allerta.<br />
<br />
=== Negative Space Engraving ===<br />
<br />
You can engrave a vector shape with a hole in the middle of it, so that you get enclosed portions that are not engraved in the middle of fully engraved portions. To do this, when you construct the image in your editor of choice, simply perform subtraction between the relevant paths, to remove the inner part. In the RDWorks laser software, the two paths will show up, and be independently editable (making them look like just two distinct paths to engrave), but they will engrave correctly as a negative space. Obviously test this w/ your software; this technique is known to work using Inkscape.<br />
<br />
=== Kerf Compensation ===<br />
<br />
For any given layer, you can compensate for the kerf (width of the cut) by opening it's settings and clicking the "Advance" button next to the "Seal" input box towards the middle-bottom. Enable sew compensation, and pick the direction and sew width (kerf size). The inward direction will make the actual cut move toward the inside of a closed cut path, outward will move it towards the outside.<br />
<br />
In general, for cuts on the outside, you want to move outward, to move the actual cut edge be exactly where the path is in your design. For cuts on the inside, you want to use the inward direction.<br />
<br />
== Maintenance==<br />
<br />
'''Please don't perform any maintenance on the machine (including cleaning lenses/mirrors or aligning mirrors) unless you've specifically trained on it.'''<br />
<br />
* TEMP note: some check(s) may be included outside of maintenance so a user can trigger a maintenance notification<br />
* DON'T - let someone who has been trained do it<br />
* how to tell if the lens is dirty (or getting old?)<br />
* how to tell if the mirrors are dirty<br />
** Cleaning the mirrors<br />
*** ethanol solution? isopropanol? - see manual.<br />
*** fabric must be non scratch - see manual.<br />
* Checking and performing mirror alignment<br />
** Safety - remove gratings and any other reflective surfaces before any maintenance that requires disabling the door sensors.<br />
** TEMP note: in restrospect the alignment was a very dangerous situation. mirror paths were not checked before powering on the laser with the door open with many people around. (or maybe nigel is just insanely good at configuring mirrors... still... reddit.com/r/OSHA)<br />
** Tape test - mirrors 1,2,3 and their corresponding exits. Slightly propped laser tube.<br />
** vertical/horizontal alignment by brass dial.<br />
* Checking chiller tank water volume<br />
** Chiller alarm - what does it mean<br />
** Checking tank water volume<br />
** Refilling tank water<br />
* Cleaning the bed and waste drawer (this section probably should be moved to usage)<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Signs:<br />
* <strike>Don't open front/back passthrough doors (for now)</strike><br />
* <strike>Fire extinguishers - which to use for what fire</strike><br />
* Approved materials<br />
* <strike>careful when raising bed, dont crash into laser head</strike><br />
* move laser head out of the way before opening the lid<br />
* power off the laser before opening the lid ???<br />
* <strike>watch the laser while it is cutting</strike><br />
<br />
<br />
Todos:<br />
* <strike>Move the machine further away from the right wall so we can get to the power switch.</strike><br />
* <strike>label the water squirt bottle as for fires and not to remove</strike><br />
* acquire piece of copper for chlorine materials test<br />
* acquire vinyl record for testing<br />
* acquire propane bottle and nozzle<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
material notes<br />
* material selection - approved materials list<br />
** nothing that generates hazerdous fumes, particularly chlorine/formeldahyde<br />
** no aluminum or other metals (?? ryan claims these can be safely engraved in this machine)<br />
** nothing reflective<br />
** size constraints<br />
* laser configuration - power, speed<br />
** table of recommmended settings for various materials<br />
<br />
How to get a new/novel material approved<br />
* consensus process<br />
* chlorine test<br />
<br />
== Chlorine material test ==<br />
<br />
Before you cut any new material you *must* check that it is safe to cut; specifically that it will not produce chlorine gas when it is burned by the cutting laser. Chlorine is extremely dangerous in its gaseous form and so must be avoided at all costs. <br />
<br />
To test a new material, you'll need a sample of the material, a small copper rod (about the thickness of a coat hanger), a pliars, and a handheld propane torch. We'll test for the presence of chlorine by burning a sample of the material in a high temperature propane flame and observe the visible emission spectra. Chrlorine produces a bright green light when burned, and so will be very obvious when you're testing your material.<br />
<br />
First, light the propane torch and set it to rest upright on a stable surface. Taking the pliar, hold the piece of copper in the blue part of the flame to heat it. As the copper begins to heat sufficiently it'll cause the flame to turn an orange color. A consistent orange color means that the copper has no residue material on its surface and so is clean enough to use as a test. If you observe non-orange flames when you burn the copper you may need to clean in further, either by waiting for the excess material to burn off, or by scrubbing the surface of the copper when it has cooled.<br />
<br />
Once the copper is burning, take the hot copper and melt a sample of the new material onto it. For example if you were testing a new form of plastic you can roll the hot copper rod on the material, melting some of it onto the copper rod's surface.<br />
<br />
With this done, place the copper rod back into the blue part of the flame. Observe the colors of the emission spectra from the new material burning. If you observe a bright green color, then the material contains chlorine and thus *must not* be burned further. Ventilate your surrounding area to avoid breathing it in. If you observe no green color as you burn your material sample, then the material is likely safe to use with the laser cutter.<br />
<br />
Here is a video example by Zach in NYCResistor with a known good and known bad material: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D0_4NLmeSTI<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== BANNED MATERIALS (NEVER USE THESE) ==<br />
<br />
These materials '''must not be used in the laser cutter'''. <br />
<br />
{|border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"<br />
|-<br />
! colspan="10" bgcolor="#ccc" | Bad materials<br />
|-<br />
! Material<br />
! Notes<br />
|-<br />
| PVC || Contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br />
|-<br />
| Vinyl || Most contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br />
|- <br />
| PVC Foams || Most contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br />
|- <br />
| Foam Core || Usually made with PVC which is harmful as listed above. <br />
|- <br />
| Styrofoam || Can cause flash fires<br />
|-<br />
| Polycarbonate or PETG || Does not cut. TAP plastics sells both this and acrylic. '''Be sure to read your labels when purchasing material'''. Lexan is the trade name for Polycarbonate, while Plexiglass is the trade name for acrylic.<br />
|- <br />
| ABS || Gives of hydrogen cyanide<br />
|- <br />
| Fiberglass ||<br />
|- <br />
| Metals || Cannot be etched by this type of laser. Also is harmful as the reflective surface may cause the laser to be reflected back up to the head, damaging it. If someone claims to be etching metal using this type of laser then they are etching a metal with a plastic coating, anodized surface, or some other etchable surface on top.<br />
<br />
|}<br />
<br />
== Known good materials ==<br />
<br />
These materials are known to be ok for use with the laser cutter. The speed and power of the laser cutter will need to be set appropriately for the material and thickness in use. Below is a table showing the suggested settings when cutting or etching them.<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" <br />
|-<br />
! colspan="10" bgcolor="#cccccc" | Cardboards/Papers<br />
|-<br />
! rowspan="2" | Material<br />
! colspan="3" | Engraving <br />
! colspan="3" | Cutting<br />
! colspan="2" | Scoring<br />
! rowspan="1" | Notes<br />
|-<br />
! Speed (mm/s) !! Power !! DPI !! Speed (mm/s) !! Power !! Kerf Width !! Speed !! Power ||<br />
|-<br />
|-<br />
<br />
|-<br />
| Acrylic (clear, 3mm) || || || || 20 || 55% || || || ||<br />
<br />
|-<br />
| Acrylic (clear, 12.5mm) || || || || 3 || 55% || || || || Focal length is 4mm<br />
<br />
|-<br />
| Acrylic (clear, 18mm) || || || || 6 || 55% || || || || Focal length is 4mm; cuts require three passes, don't move piece between passes<br />
<br />
|-<br />
| Cardboard (4mm) || || || || 50 || 15% || || 50 mm/s || 5% || Minimum line separation at 50/15 ~ 1/2mm<br />
<br />
|-<br />
| Plywood (3mm) || 400mm/s || 5-55% || 500-2000 || 35 || 50% || 0.0007 in || || || see reference in toolbox for engraving<br />
<br />
|-<br />
| Plywood (5.6mm) || 400mm/s || 5-55% || 500-2000 || 15 || 55% || 0.002 in || || || see reference in toolbox for engraving<br />
<br />
|-<br />
| Birch (4.8mm) || || || || 35 || 55% || || || || <br />
<br />
|}<br />
<br />
The [[Laser Gallery]] contains some past projects and cutting tests.<br />
<br />
== Sourcing Material ==<br />
<br />
In general, you can get stuff form Amazon, but you have to wait for shipping.<br />
<br />
For plastics: [http://www.google.com/maps/place/TAP+Plastics/@37.7711648,-122.4207603,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f7e27351bb079:0x7e3610d7dc178b10!8m2!3d37.7711648!4d-122.4185663 Tap Plastics] is nearby Noisebridge, but is expensive, [http://eplastics.com eplastics] is cheaper but you need to wait for shipping, and [https://www.google.com/maps/place/Mr.+Plastics/@37.7091519,-122.1546962,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f8fe7938349a3:0xafcb2526326faccd!8m2!3d37.7091519!4d-122.1525022 Mr. Plastics] is cheapest but is in San Leandro.<br />
<br />
For woods: [http://www.google.com/maps/place/Discount+Builders+Supply/@37.7704879,-122.4191311,15z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0x3c0d6c6e25a89652?sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjV87WU-JzOAhUI6WMKHSPABOUQ_BIIeTAK Discount Builder Supply] is nearby.</div>Scottyhttps://www.noisebridge.net/index.php?title=Laser_Gallery&diff=53247Laser Gallery2016-08-08T00:45:00Z<p>Scotty: Added files to mobile and box</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Image:Cardboard_mobile.jpg|thumb|center|upright=5|alt=laser cut cardboard mobile|Laser cut cardboard Noisebridge mobiles File: https://gist.github.com/scottyallen/1888e058261fc21f184f6be192bbe131<br />
|400px]] <br />
[[Image:Storage_box.jpg|thumb|center|upright=5|alt=Storage box|Storage box assembled without glue. Scotty: "Seems like .4mm kerf is the magic number in fusion 360 to get snug enough fit that you can hammer it together with a mallet" File: https://gist.github.com/scottyallen/b244dc3fedcbf2862847adce4e4c9d2f|400px]] <br />
<br />
[[Image:Wood_springs.jpg|thumb|center|upright=5|alt=wood springs|Wood springs|400px]]<br />
[[Image:Cardboard_laser_cutting_test_front.jpg|thumb|center|upright=5|alt=cardboard laser cutting test front side|Cardboard laser cutting test, front side. The top numbers are % power, and the numbers down the side are speed.|400px]]<br />
[[Image:Cardboard_laser_cutting_test_back.jpg|thumb|center|upright=5|alt=cardboard laser cutting test back side|Cardboard laser cutting test, front side. The top numbers are % power, and the numbers down the side are speed. Note how the back is not cut through all the way on some tests.|400px]]</div>Scottyhttps://www.noisebridge.net/index.php?title=User:Scotty&diff=53242User:Scotty2016-08-07T19:44:19Z<p>Scotty: Undo revision 53220 by Partyparrot (talk)</p>
<hr />
<div><br />
= Scotty Allen =<br />
<br />
[[File:scotty.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
Email: <firstname>@<firstname><lastname>.com<br />
<br />
== About ==<br />
<br />
I'm a nomadic tech entrepreneur. The center of my orbit is San Francisco, but I spend only about half of my time there. I spend the rest of the time out traveling the world. Noisebridge is my home hackerspace, but I try and visit other hackerspaces whenever I'm traveling. I write code and build software companies for work, but I like building physical things and dong adventurous things in my spare time.<br />
<br />
== Projects ==<br />
<br />
=== Sous vide machine ===<br />
<br />
I made a sous vide machine, for cooking meat and eggs in a precisely controlled temperature bath. It's based around an Arduino Uno, a thermocouple for temperature measurement, and an acquarium pump pushing water across three immersion coils. I like to say that my favorite part of cooking is soldering and writing code.<br />
<br />
[[File:scotty_sous_vide_machine.jpg|Welding at Techshop|x200px]] [[File:scotty_sous_vide_meat.jpg|Welding at Techshop|x200px]]<br />
<br />
=== Bookshelves ===<br />
<br />
[[Bookshelves]]<br />
<br />
I helped [[User:nthmost]], [[User:Fineline]], and others build some new bookcases for Noisebridge, based on the golden ratio/golden spiral.<br />
<br />
[[File:bookcase.jpg|x200px]]<br />
<br />
=== Welding and Machining ===<br />
<br />
I've always wanted to learn to weld and machine metal. I've been gradually learning both over the past few years, mostly at Techshop, but some at noisebridge too. Well, mostly trying to get Noisebridge's metalworking tools online, really.<br />
<br />
A few random photos of stuff I've done:<br />
<br />
[[File:Landyacht welding.jpg|Welding at Techshop|200px]] [[File:scotty_side_table.jpg|200px]] [[File:scotty_table.jpg|350px]] [[File:scotty_metal_turning.JPG|350px]]<br />
<br />
=== Wood turning ===<br />
<br />
I'm into making wooden bowls from green wood. I mostly use wood I get from free from tree trimmers that discard it, usually by advertising it as free firewood on Craigslist.<br />
<br />
Here are some samples of my work:<br />
<br />
[[File:scotty_wood_turning.JPG|x200px]]<br />
[[File:scotty_bowl_1.JPG|x200px]]<br />
[[File:scotty_bowl_2.jpg|x200px]]<br />
[[File:scotty_bowl_3.jpg|x200px]]<br />
<br />
=== Land sailing ===<br />
<br />
I saw a few pictures online of land yachts, and thought it woudl be a good weekend project. 4 months later, I was finished:)<br />
<br />
I took it to the Nevada desert in March for the America's Landsailing Cup. I placed 9th in my class, which sounds impressive until you learn I was only competing in a field of 15. It's a very small sport in the US.<br />
<br />
Here's what it looked like putting some finishing touches on a new sail at Noisebridge.<br />
<br />
[[File:450px-Landyacht_finished.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
I wrote a [http://blog.noisebridge.net/2015/02/03/land-yacht-no-not-that-kind-of-land-yacht/ blog post] about it.<br />
<br />
Here's some [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q_mPRX7lXRE video] I took during the America's Landsailing Cup, and some [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uzKgdt2PFDg unedited video] from just playing around and practicing.<br />
<br />
=== Hang gliding ===<br />
<br />
I've been learning to hang glide over the past year or so.<br />
<br />
[[File:scotty_hangglide.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
=== Laser cutter documentation ===<br />
<br />
[[Laser Cutter Manual Source Documents]]<br />
<br />
=== Hackerspace Mobile ===<br />
<br />
[[:File:Hackermobile.svg]]</div>Scottyhttps://www.noisebridge.net/index.php?title=Gaming&diff=53216Gaming2016-08-07T03:46:28Z<p>Scotty: Undo vandalism</p>
<hr />
<div>Gaming is fine use of hacker spaces. Role-playing games in particular develop the imagination and ability to improvise. Excellent skills for hackers.<br />
<br />
Noisebridge has a perfect table on which to play (the "square") and a very nice collection of RPG materials, particularly [[D&D]]. <br />
[[Category:Games]]</div>Scottyhttps://www.noisebridge.net/index.php?title=Talk:Donate_or_Pay_Dues&diff=53215Talk:Donate or Pay Dues2016-08-07T03:45:01Z<p>Scotty: Undo revision 53212 by Rabite (talk)</p>
<hr />
<div>Stupid button doesn't link right.<br />
<br />
[[Image:Donatebutton.png|link=https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr?cmd=_donations&business=noisebridge23%40gmail%2ecom&lc=US&item_name=Noisebridge&currency_code=USD&bn=PP%2dDonationsBF%3abtn_donateCC_LG%2egif%3aNonHostedGuest|alt=Alt text|Title text]]<br />
<br />
--[[User:Rubin110|Rubin110]] 16:40, 7 August 2009 (PDT)<br />
<br />
WePay is no more. Perhaps we should remove the link from this page.<br />
<br />
[[User:Bfb|Bfb]] ([[User talk:Bfb|talk]])<br />
<br />
== Changing Noisebridge's Bitcoin Address ==<br />
<br />
-----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----<br />
Hash: SHA1<br />
<br />
Hey all,<br />
<br />
Patrick O'Doherty here. As per Danny's email to nb-discuss https://www.noisebridge.net/pipermail/noisebridge-discuss/2014-December/045662.html<br />
we're looking to change the Noisebridge Bitcoin address to facilitate easier exchange of BTC for USD, as Noisebridge has a need for cash monies.<br />
<br />
The new address for the Noisebridge wallet is 1KxVgNmPdTyePLw27iixbH9yrRhNH7UfdK<br />
<br />
It'd be fantastic to have the new bitcoin address listed on the Donate page.<br />
<br />
If someone w/ admin rights on the wiki could update it that'd be great.<br />
<br />
P<br />
-----BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE-----<br />
Version: GnuPG/MacGPG2 v2.0.22 (Darwin)<br />
<br />
iQEcBAEBAgAGBQJUhRzxAAoJEDmK3FRpXKVGIqkH/1x6yO+s8mEd7p+JvSJpbvu2<br />
TUlZdSE/nm8dbQfAaboYKqOAFqbIyVk9ss0JMLp/ktxoSTmlZuUZpOGYGj9QFYs5<br />
KQNkWEdxoKTW7e9N6NyOY9q5MP+Kr8fR8J5IUPQWB7dRBdnmOzQqaaOrhLKAht2w<br />
vapSDfKefDrhcHT9WTKC1ZBZwl6PvD38E62l0MTbmDU4Y5FRiJ6dvjxNxsDyDnON<br />
e1HTUbZeAgZZF7++Mv3YVFVZcNGimZMXjj/e/PjbzQNYIGc0jvH5XxqeraQcvykD<br />
KYdtKXvEe26TZusG1fgwvu78OksgZGwGzYJu75tNjc16e0YjO9qHW9M1ZlKCfSo=<br />
=xwME<br />
-----END PGP SIGNATURE-----<br />
<br />
== Is PayPal-reliance such a good idea? ==<br />
<br />
For those desired recurring donations of $10/mo, $30/mo, $60/mo, and $100/mo, is it really best to rely on PayPal??<br><br />
There '''continue''' to be a lot of highly negative things abt PayPal, as seen in at least these three sites:<br><br />
- [[http://www.paypalsucks.com/ PayPal Problems & PayPal Answers]]<br><br />
- [[https://www.facebook.com/NoPayPal NoPayPal on Facebook]]<br><br />
- [[http://www.paypalsucks.com/ PayPal Complaints, PayPal Customer Service & eBay Suspension Complaints]]<br><br />
<br />
Negatives expressed herein are likely keeping ''some'' donors away from Noisebridge and away from other institutions that rely on PayPal for extra incoming funds. At least these facts are coming to ''someone's'' attention. <br />
<br />
[[Special:Contributions/77.244.254.230|77.244.254.230]] 13:08, 22 January 2015 (UTC)<br />
<br><br />
---------------------------------<br />
Yeah, awesome point about PayFoe. <br />
And directed toward [https://noisebridge.net/wiki/User:Maltman23 Mitch] and the other fundraising working-groupies so much in bed with PayFoe:<br><br />
Does like PF waive all its fees or offer some super steep discount to the space under NB's status as a 501(c)(3)??<br><br />
And has PF made any significant monetary donations to the space during the current fundraising drive??<br><br />
You'll all eventually answer these questions one way or another...<br />
<br />
[[Special:Contributions/82.211.223.3|82.211.223.3]] 19:24, 22 January 2015 (UTC)<br />
<br />
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<br />
== New donation idea ==<br />
<br />
Convert the vending machines into reward bins for donating to noisebridge. Think of a reward for each denomination of dollar:<br />
<br />
* $5 gets you a set of stickers<br />
* $10 dated membership card for showing at the door with the rules on the back.<br />
* $20 ?<br />
* $50 gets you a NB t-shirt (multiple lanes for size)<br />
* $100 gets you an especially nice, laser-cut (or engraved) goodie or maybe a [[fob]] whose key will last until the end of the month.<br />
<br />
Cheers. Mark (from [[Meeting_Notes_2016_08_02]]).</div>Scottyhttps://www.noisebridge.net/index.php?title=Laser_Manual&diff=53163Laser Manual2016-08-04T06:54:33Z<p>Scotty: /* Workflow */</p>
<hr />
<div>== Contact list ==<br />
<br />
=== Trainers ===<br />
<br />
* Scotty Allen (@scotty on slack)<br />
* Darryl (@augur on slack)<br />
* Ruth Grace (@ruthgrace on slack)<br />
* Kyle (@kylesewing on slack)<br />
<br />
== Who can use the laser cutter ==<br />
<br />
Only people who have been trained by an official trainer can use the laser cutter, in order to prevent unintended damage to the machine, operator, and Noisebridge.<br />
<br />
People that have successfully completed the class:<br />
* Scotty Allen (@scotty) - Trainer<br />
* Darryl McAdams(@augur) - Trainer<br />
* Ruth Grace Wong (@ruthgrace) - Trainer<br />
* Kyle Ng (@kylesewing) - Trainer<br />
* Henner Zeller (@hzeller)<br />
* Adrian Kelly (@akelly)<br />
* Nick Pisaro (@nickp)<br />
<br />
== How to get trained to use the laser cutter ==<br />
<br />
# Ask a trainer if they will train you<br />
# Schedule a time with the trainer<br />
# Get trained<br />
# Get your name on the list of users before the first time you use the machine<br />
<br />
== Basic Safety ==<br />
The laser cutter is generally a very safe machine to use. However, as with all industrial machines, you need to treat it with respect. The main safety concerns are creating fires, hurting your eyes or skin, getting crushed by the machine, and creating toxic fumes.<br />
<br />
The basics:<br />
* ALWAYS WATCH THE LASER BEAM CUTTING YOUR WORK!<br />
* OPEN THE LID if you see a fire<br />
* BLOW IT OUT if the fire keeps burning<br />
* DON'T CUT UNAPPROVED MATERIALS!<br />
<br />
=== Fire ===<br />
<br />
[[Image:Laser_water_estop.jpg|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=Laser cutter with water and estop| The water squirt bottle is sitting on top of the laser, and the estop is the round red button.]]<br />
<br />
You can really hurt yourself or burn the building down with this machine. If you follow the safety rules, the chances of you causing this is close to zero. Some materials are very flammable on the laser cutter, and shouldn't be cut. Never cut an unapproved material, or a material you can't identify. A laser beam can also initiate a fire if the speed of the cut is too slow or the laser power is set too high.<br />
<br />
<br />
Ways to not cause fires:<br />
* ALWAYS WATCH THE LASER CUTTER WHENEVER IT IS CUTTING AS FIRES CAN HAPPEN. The laser affects your material by heating it. Your job can change in seconds with the accumulation of heat in your material. Never leave the room while the laser is in operation. If you leave the laser unattended, your access to the laser cutter will be permanently revoked.<br />
* Use reasonable speed/power settings. Start with the recommended speed/power settings for your material. Be patient - resist the temptation to crank the power and speed to rush through your job. This can cause fires.<br />
** There will be some light when material is cut. This light at the point of lasing may be ok as long as it stays with the motion of the laser. If a flame appears while the laser is in operation, stop your job and try again with lower heat settings.<br />
* Know where the fire extinguisher is in case of a fire. The ONLY fire extinguisher that should be used on the laser cutter is the halotron extinguisher right next to the laser cutter. Other fire extinguishers are corrosive and will ruin the machine.<br />
<br />
How to put out a fire:<br />
* Push the estop. (To turn the machine back on after the estop was hit, you need to switch the power switch on the right hand side of the machine off and on again).<br />
* Open the lid.<br />
* If it's small, try and blow it out.<br />
* If it's smallish, try and squirt it out with the water squirt bottle sitting on the right hand side of the machine.<br />
* If that doesn't work, use the halotron fire extinguisher to the right of the laser cutter. Aim it at the base of the flame.<br />
<br />
=== Damage to eyes and skin ===<br />
The laser beam can instantly and permanently blind you. It can also burn your skin.<br />
* You don't ever want any part of your body in contact with the beam.<br />
* As long as the door is closed, you're safe to look at the laser. There are interlocks on the door that help ensure the laser never operates with the doors open. Don't disable them.<br />
<br />
=== Crushing danger ===<br />
<br />
The laser cutter is a dumb machine. It doesn't care whether your hand is in the way when it's moving. The head can move when the door is open. Always make sure everyone's hands are out of the machine before moving the head.<br />
<br />
Also be very careful not to crash the head into other parts of the machine. Be very careful when moving the z-axis to not crash the head into the bed, and to not move the z-axis if the focus length acrylic circle is under the lens.<br />
<br />
=== Fumes ===<br />
The laser cutter burns the things it's cutting, which can create toxic fumes.<br />
* ONLY CUT APPROVED MATERIALS. Cutting nonapproved materials can release really toxic gases, including chlorine and cyanide. These are really bad for humans, as well as being very damaging to the laser cutter.<br />
* The ventilation fan should always be running if the laser cutter is on, even if it's not cutting. It's currently wired such that you can't turn on the laser cutter without the fan turning on, but please make sure it's running.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Care of the machine ==<br />
<br />
'''Please don't perform any maintenance on the machine (including cleaning lenses/mirrors or aligning mirrors) unless you've specifically trained on it.'''<br />
<br />
The laser cutter is finely calibrated piece of machinery. Please close the lid gently, and do not push or jar the machine at any time. Do not lean or press on the tray - it's fragile, and needs to be perfectly flat for the laser cutter to cut properly. If you take the honeycomb bed or slats out, please be ULTRA CAREFUL with them - put them somewhere where they won't get damaged or warped.<br />
<br />
== Paying for your laser time ==<br />
<br />
The laser cutter has parts that wear out over time, which can be quite costly to replace, especially the laser tube. A new tube costs several thousand dollars. Thus, we require people to pay for the time on the laser they use, so we can pay for new parts. The cost for using the laser cutter is $5 per hour of cutting time.<br />
<br />
To figure out how much time your job takes, press the File button, select your file, and then select Work Time from the menu. It will tell you in hours:minutes.seconds.<br />
<br />
There is a laser cutter donation box on the wall of the Sparkle Forge room. Please pay for the cutting time you actually use, even if you end up running your job multiple times.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Workflows ==<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Overall Workflow ===<br />
<br />
This is the overall structure of the workflow. Each part is elaborated below.<br />
<br />
# Laser start up<br />
# Material setup<br />
# Convert file to DXF<br />
# Load file onto the machine<br />
# Dry run<br />
# Cut/Engrave<br />
# Laser shut down<br />
# Cleanup<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Laser start up ===<br />
<br />
# Turn on power and ensure that the fan and chiller are running<br />
# Move the head as far forward and right as possible, close to the controls<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Material setup ===<br />
<br />
# Clean the bed of any scraps that may be on it<br />
# Move the cut head as far forward and right as possible (near the controls)<br />
# Raise the laser head as far up as possible<br />
# Raise the bed to the desired height, watching the laser head to avoid crashes<br />
# Move the laser head as far back and right as possible<br />
# Place material on the bed<br />
# Focus the laser (do at least for each distinct thickness, optimally do for each piece of material)<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Focusing the laser ===<br />
<br />
Noisebridge has acryllic disks cut to various thicknesses that can be used to accurately focus the laser. Specifically the laser head needs to be locked to 8mm above the surface of the material you're cutting.<br />
<br />
# Place the material on the cut bed<br />
# Move the cut head to the center of the area to cut, watching the laser head to avoid crashes w/ material<br />
# Loosen the wing nut and raise the head all the way up<br />
# Place the focusing discs on the material under the head<br />
# Lower the head until it just touches the focusing disc (8mm above material)<br />
# Lock the head in place (tighten the wing nut)<br />
# Remove the focusing discs<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Convert an image in Inkscape to a DXF file ===<br />
<br />
# Load the image into Inkscape<br />
# Set the different cut paths to different colors (for controlling settings, etc.)<br />
# Save as a DXF. Be sure to make the units be millimeters so that importing later will correctly scale the image.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Debugging DXF Problems ===<br />
<br />
Sometimes exporting to DXF introduces bizarre extra lines. There are two things to try to debug. The first is to convert objects to paths:<br />
<br />
# Select all the problematic shapes<br />
# Path > Object to Path<br />
<br />
If this fails to resolve the issue, you can try a more radical solution which will eliminate all bezier paths entirely:<br />
<br />
# Select all the problematic shapes<br />
# Convert bezier paths to lines (Extensions > Modify Path > Flatten Bezier).<br />
<br />
Flatness 0.5 is good to start with. Smaller = better approximation of the curves. A lower flatness number takes more time to compute, but also produces a better approximation to the curve.<br />
<br />
Sometimes need to select the path's directly with the path tool (but not the points!).<br />
<br />
=== Loading into the laser cutter software ===<br />
<br />
# Import the file with File > Import<br />
# Resize as needed, tho if the file was exported w/ millimeter units, the software should also import the image with the correct size.<br />
# Set the cut order:<br />
##* EITHER Set the cut order to inside-out (Handle > Cut optimize > Inside to outside)<br />
##* OR Manually specify cut order with the Set cut property tool (Edit > Set cutting property). See below for more details.<br />
# Set the speed and power for the layers as necessary, and the process mode for each layer to either cut (for continuous line cutting) or dot (for dashed line cutting) or scan (for engraving)<br />
# Optionally, simulate the cutting/engraving process.<br />
# Download to the machine (Laser Work panel on the bottom right).<br />
<br />
=== Manually specifying cut order ===<br />
<br />
In the Set cutting property window (Edit > Set cutting property), you can manually re-order the cut paths. In the window, you'll see an image of the workpiece, and to its right, two lists of paths. When you first open the window, all of the cut paths are in the left. If you select a path (either in the image or in the list) and click the button labeled ">>", this path will be transferred to the end of the right list of paths. If you click ">>>", all of the paths in the left list will be moved to the end of the right list (preserving order). Similarly, clicking "<<<" will move the right list to the end of the left list. If you select a cut path in the right list, the up and down arrow buttons will reorder that path in the chosen direction.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Loading speed and power settings from library ===<br />
<br />
# In the top right panel, double click the layer of interest<br />
# Click "Load parameters from library"<br />
# Select the library item<br />
# Click "Load"<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Saving power and speed settings to library ===<br />
<br />
# In the top right panel, double click the layer of interest<br />
# Make sure the layer is set to the desired parameters<br />
# Click "Load parameters from library"<br />
# Click "Save as"<br />
# Enter a name and optionally some notes<br />
# Click "Ok"<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Simulation ===<br />
<br />
# Open the simulation window with either Edit > Preview or the toolbar button labelled with a monitor.<br />
# Click the Simulation button in the right panel<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Cutting ===<br />
<br />
# Select the file to use using the File button<br />
# Move the head to the initial guess origin with the arrow buttons<br />
# Test the frame with the Frame button adjust origin as necessary<br />
# Set the origin by pressing Origin<br />
# Test the cut by turning the laser power off and pressing the Start/Pause button<br />
# Turn the laser power on<br />
# Cut by pressing the Start/Pause button<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Engraving ===<br />
<br />
TODO<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Cancel a cut/dry run ===<br />
<br />
# Pause with the Start/Pause button<br />
# Cancel and move back to the origin with the Esc button<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Laser shut down ===<br />
<br />
# Move the head as far forward and right as possible (near the controls)<br />
# Raise the laser head as far up as possible<br />
# Let the fan run for a little bit (~30 seconds)<br />
# Turn the power off<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Cleanup ===<br />
<br />
# Remove pieces of material scrap left on the bed<br />
# Open the tray door on the front bottom and empty the scraps left there<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Calculating work time ===<br />
<br />
On the computer:<br />
<br />
* Open the simulation window (see above). Total work time and time of laser use are displayed in the top right. Donations should be calculated by laser use, not total work time.<br />
<br />
On the machine:<br />
<br />
* Whole file: File > Select file > Right Arrow > Work Time > Enter<br />
* Current run: Pause the cut, then check time at the bottom right<br />
<br />
== Fusion 360 ==<br />
Fusion 360 is a free CAD (Computer Aided Design) program from Autodesk for designing 3D parts, and arguably the best one currently available. If you're designing something complex on the laser cutter, particularly with multiple parts that need to fit together, I highly recommend it over drawing programs like Inkscape. It also has CAM (Computer Aided Manufacturing) capabilities, which makes it very useful for CNC machining and laser cutting. There's a copy of the software on the laser cutter computer, and you can download it [http://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview here]. It's free as long as you make less than $100k per year using it.<br />
<br />
=== Workflow ===<br />
# Design a part to be laser cut by drawing a 2D sketch and extruding it<br />
# Go to the CAM workspace by clicking the Model button in the top left, then selecting CAM<br />
# Select the Waterjet operation (if you don't see this, turn it on under Preferences -> Preview)<br />
## Set Type to Laser Cutting<br />
## Select the Cutting Mode. I've only tried Through - Auto, but I don't think the different quality settings do anything.<br />
## Look up the kerf of the material you're cutting in the [[#Known good materials]] section, and enter that in Kerf Width, or if your material's not listed, cut one a [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1166680 kerf gauge] and put the result in the wiki. The kerf changes depending on the thickness, speed and power. Setting a larger kerf width will make your parts fit tighter, and a smaller kerf will make them looser.<br />
## Select the contours of your part that you want to cut<br />
## Go to the Passes tab, and change Compensation Type to In Computer<br />
## Hit OK to close the dialog box, and you can see a preview of your tool path. You can go back to edit it by double clicking the contour operation in the tree on the left<br />
# To export to DXF, click the Post Process button, which says G1 G2. Make sure rdworkslaser is selected as your post processor, type a name for the export and hit Post. Then select the folder to put it in.<br />
# Import the DXF in RDWorks, and continue with the standard workflow starting at [[#Loading into the laser cutter software]]<br />
# Fusion automatically orders the cuts from inside out and in the fastest order, so there's no need to do it again in RDWorks.<br />
<br />
=== Advanced Options ===<br />
# If you're using your own computer for the first time and not the laser cutter desktop, you have to enable the laser cutter support which is still in beta, by clicking on your name in the top right, then Preferences, Preview, and checking "CAM - Waterjet/Laser/Plasma cutter support". You will also need to download the custom post processor that we use for this laser.<br />
# If you want to specify the order manually in Fusion, you can check Preserve Order under the Passes tab, and then it cuts them in the same order that you selected them.<br />
# There's a simulate button to the left of the Post Process button, if you want to do it in Fusion<br />
# If you want to disable or tweak the lead ins and lead outs, you can go to the Linking tab. Lead ins and lead outs can fix the bump you get on the side of your part where the laser started and stopped, but they also make extra cuts in your scrap material, which you may want to keep. In this tab you can also specify the Entry Position for each cut path.<br />
# You can disable Kerf Compensation by settting Sideways Compensation to Center under the Passes tab, though this is not reccomended<br />
<br />
<br />
== Techniques ==<br />
<br />
=== Text Cutting ===<br />
<br />
Engraved text requires no special technique because no cuts are made, but text cutting is non-trivial. Because of loops, it's sometimes desirable to use a stencil font, especially at smaller scales where legibility is important. 1001 fonts has a number of stencil fonts for free. At 10pt, some good fonts are Marsh, Spacedock, and Allerta.<br />
<br />
=== Negative Space Engraving ===<br />
<br />
You can engrave a vector shape with a hole in the middle of it, so that you get enclosed portions that are not engraved in the middle of fully engraved portions. To do this, when you construct the image in your editor of choice, simply perform subtraction between the relevant paths, to remove the inner part. In the RDWorks laser software, the two paths will show up, and be independently editable (making them look like just two distinct paths to engrave), but they will engrave correctly as a negative space. Obviously test this w/ your software; this technique is known to work using Inkscape.<br />
<br />
== Maintenance==<br />
<br />
'''Please don't perform any maintenance on the machine (including cleaning lenses/mirrors or aligning mirrors) unless you've specifically trained on it.'''<br />
<br />
* TEMP note: some check(s) may be included outside of maintenance so a user can trigger a maintenance notification<br />
* DON'T - let someone who has been trained do it<br />
* how to tell if the lens is dirty (or getting old?)<br />
* how to tell if the mirrors are dirty<br />
** Cleaning the mirrors<br />
*** ethanol solution? isopropanol? - see manual.<br />
*** fabric must be non scratch - see manual.<br />
* Checking and performing mirror alignment<br />
** Safety - remove gratings and any other reflective surfaces before any maintenance that requires disabling the door sensors.<br />
** TEMP note: in restrospect the alignment was a very dangerous situation. mirror paths were not checked before powering on the laser with the door open with many people around. (or maybe nigel is just insanely good at configuring mirrors... still... reddit.com/r/OSHA)<br />
** Tape test - mirrors 1,2,3 and their corresponding exits. Slightly propped laser tube.<br />
** vertical/horizontal alignment by brass dial.<br />
* Checking chiller tank water volume<br />
** Chiller alarm - what does it mean<br />
** Checking tank water volume<br />
** Refilling tank water<br />
* Cleaning the bed and waste drawer (this section probably should be moved to usage)<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Signs:<br />
* <strike>Don't open front/back passthrough doors (for now)</strike><br />
* <strike>Fire extinguishers - which to use for what fire</strike><br />
* Approved materials<br />
* <strike>careful when raising bed, dont crash into laser head</strike><br />
* move laser head out of the way before opening the lid<br />
* power off the laser before opening the lid ???<br />
* <strike>watch the laser while it is cutting</strike><br />
<br />
<br />
Todos:<br />
* <strike>Move the machine further away from the right wall so we can get to the power switch.</strike><br />
* <strike>label the water squirt bottle as for fires and not to remove</strike><br />
* acquire piece of copper for chlorine materials test<br />
* acquire vinyl record for testing<br />
* acquire propane bottle and nozzle<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
material notes<br />
* material selection - approved materials list<br />
** nothing that generates hazerdous fumes, particularly chlorine/formeldahyde<br />
** no aluminum or other metals (?? ryan claims these can be safely engraved in this machine)<br />
** nothing reflective<br />
** size constraints<br />
* laser configuration - power, speed<br />
** table of recommmended settings for various materials<br />
<br />
How to get a new/novel material approved<br />
* consensus process<br />
* chlorine test<br />
<br />
== Chlorine material test ==<br />
<br />
Before you cut any new material you *must* check that it is safe to cut; specifically that it will not produce chlorine gas when it is burned by the cutting laser. Chlorine is extremely dangerous in its gaseous form and so must be avoided at all costs. <br />
<br />
To test a new material, you'll need a sample of the material, a small copper rod (about the thickness of a coat hanger), a pliars, and a handheld propane torch. We'll test for the presence of chlorine by burning a sample of the material in a high temperature propane flame and observe the visible emission spectra. Chrlorine produces a bright green light when burned, and so will be very obvious when you're testing your material.<br />
<br />
First, light the propane torch and set it to rest upright on a stable surface. Taking the pliar, hold the piece of copper in the blue part of the flame to heat it. As the copper begins to heat sufficiently it'll cause the flame to turn an orange color. A consistent orange color means that the copper has no residue material on its surface and so is clean enough to use as a test. If you observe non-orange flames when you burn the copper you may need to clean in further, either by waiting for the excess material to burn off, or by scrubbing the surface of the copper when it has cooled.<br />
<br />
Once the copper is burning, take the hot copper and melt a sample of the new material onto it. For example if you were testing a new form of plastic you can roll the hot copper rod on the material, melting some of it onto the copper rod's surface.<br />
<br />
With this done, place the copper rod back into the blue part of the flame. Observe the colors of the emission spectra from the new material burning. If you observe a bright green color, then the material contains chlorine and thus *must not* be burned further. Ventilate your surrounding area to avoid breathing it in. If you observe no green color as you burn your material sample, then the material is likely safe to use with the laser cutter.<br />
<br />
Here is a video example by Zach in NYCResistor with a known good and known bad material: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D0_4NLmeSTI<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== BANNED MATERIALS (NEVER USE THESE) ==<br />
<br />
These materials '''must not be used in the laser cutter'''. <br />
<br />
{|border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"<br />
|-<br />
! colspan="10" bgcolor="#ccc" | Bad materials<br />
|-<br />
! Material<br />
! Notes<br />
|-<br />
| PVC || Contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br />
|-<br />
| Vinyl || Most contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br />
|- <br />
| PVC Foams || Most contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br />
|- <br />
| Foam Core || Usually made with PVC which is harmful as listed above. <br />
|- <br />
| Styrofoam || Can cause flash fires<br />
|-<br />
| Polycarbonate or PETG || Does not cut. TAP plastics sells both this and acrylic. '''Be sure to read your labels when purchasing material'''. Lexan is the trade name for Polycarbonate, while Plexiglass is the trade name for acrylic.<br />
|- <br />
| ABS || Gives of hydrogen cyanide<br />
|- <br />
| Fiberglass ||<br />
|- <br />
| Metals || Cannot be etched by this type of laser. Also is harmful as the reflective surface may cause the laser to be reflected back up to the head, damaging it. If someone claims to be etching metal using this type of laser then they are etching a metal with a plastic coating, anodized surface, or some other etchable surface on top.<br />
<br />
|}<br />
<br />
== Known good materials ==<br />
<br />
These materials are known to be ok for use with the laser cutter. The speed and power of the laser cutter will need to be set appropriately for the material and thickness in use. Below is a table showing the suggested settings when cutting or etching them.<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" <br />
|-<br />
! colspan="10" bgcolor="#cccccc" | Cardboards/Papers<br />
|-<br />
! rowspan="2" | Material<br />
! colspan="3" | Engraving <br />
! colspan="3" | Cutting<br />
! colspan="2" | Scoring<br />
! rowspan="1" | Notes<br />
|-<br />
! Speed (mm/s) !! Power !! DPI !! Speed (mm/s) !! Power !! Kerf Width !! Speed !! Power ||<br />
|-<br />
|-<br />
<br />
|-<br />
| Acrylic (clear, 3mm) || || || || 20 || 55% || || || ||<br />
<br />
|-<br />
| Acrylic (clear, 12.5mm) || || || || 3 || 55% || || || || Focal length is 4mm<br />
<br />
|-<br />
| Acrylic (clear, 18mm) || || || || 6 || 55% || || || || Focal length is 4mm; cuts require three passes, don't move piece between passes<br />
<br />
|-<br />
| Cardboard (4mm) || || || || 50 || 15% || || 50 mm/s || 5% || Minimum line separation at 50/15 ~ 1/2mm<br />
<br />
|-<br />
| Plywood (3mm) || 400mm/s || 5-55% || 500-2000 || 35 || 50% || 0.0007 in || || || see reference in toolbox for engraving<br />
<br />
|-<br />
| Plywood (5.6mm) || 400mm/s || 5-55% || 500-2000 || 15 || 55% || 0.002 in || || || see reference in toolbox for engraving<br />
<br />
|-<br />
| Birch (4.8mm) || || || || 15 || 55% || || || || Cut power is slightly higher than necessary, produces very black edges, probably faster is possible<br />
<br />
|}<br />
<br />
The [[Laser Gallery]] contains some past projects and cutting tests.<br />
<br />
== Sourcing Material ==<br />
<br />
In general, you can get stuff form Amazon, but you have to wait for shipping.<br />
<br />
For plastics: [http://www.google.com/maps/place/TAP+Plastics/@37.7711648,-122.4207603,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f7e27351bb079:0x7e3610d7dc178b10!8m2!3d37.7711648!4d-122.4185663 Tap Plastics] is nearby Noisebridge, but is expensive, [http://eplastics.com eplastics] is cheaper but you need to wait for shipping, and [https://www.google.com/maps/place/Mr.+Plastics/@37.7091519,-122.1546962,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f8fe7938349a3:0xafcb2526326faccd!8m2!3d37.7091519!4d-122.1525022 Mr. Plastics] is cheapest but is in San Leandro.<br />
<br />
For woods: [http://www.google.com/maps/place/Discount+Builders+Supply/@37.7704879,-122.4191311,15z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0x3c0d6c6e25a89652?sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjV87WU-JzOAhUI6WMKHSPABOUQ_BIIeTAK Discount Builder Supply] is nearby.</div>Scottyhttps://www.noisebridge.net/index.php?title=Talk:Vinyl_cutter&diff=53130Talk:Vinyl cutter2016-08-04T03:52:28Z<p>Scotty: Undo revision 53081 by ButtMan (talk)</p>
<hr />
<div><br />
I replaced the blade. --[[User:Scotty|Scotty]] ([[User talk:Scotty|talk]]) 02:28, 4 August 2016 (UTC)<br />
<br />
The Vinyl cutter was repaired it doesn't need a new blade!<br />
<br />
June 2013 reported to me that the Vinyl Cutter needs a new blade.<br />
** Blades look cheap, only $19.95 - http://www.uscutter.com/USCutter-MH-Series-Vinyl-Cutter-w-Sure-Cuts-A-Lot-Pro-Design-Cut-Software<br />
<br />
===--[[User:Rubin110|rubin110]] ([[User talk:Rubin110|talk]]) 08:23, 12 February 2015 (UTC)===<br />
* Bought a new arm to hold the blade doodad in. It's apparently the wrong arm but will work just fine<br />
* Bought a pen doodad<br />
* Cleaned up the cutter<br />
* Got a tool box which contains other much needed tools for the cutter, labeled and sitting on the shelf behind the cutter<br />
* Got an awesome cover for it made<br />
* New vinyl!<br />
<br />
== Deprecated shit from the Printers page ==<br />
<br />
Vinyl cutter driven by Windows 7. Does not make vinyl records :( <br />
For Linux use InkCut (Inkscape Plugin) see http://ubuntuforums.org/showthread.php?t=1512795</div>Scottyhttps://www.noisebridge.net/index.php?title=Vinyl_cutter&diff=53129Vinyl cutter2016-08-04T03:52:22Z<p>Scotty: Undo revision 53082 by ButtMan (talk)</p>
<hr />
<div>= Vinyl Cutter =<br />
== Latest News ==<br />
* June 2013 - C repaired the vinyl cutter, it's up and running again! <br />
<br />
''View the https://noisebridge.net/wiki/Talk:Vinyl_cutter for a maintenance log''<br />
<br />
== Vinyl cutting! ==<br />
Vinyl cutters take paper-backed vinyl and cut them robotically. They talk HPGL. HPGL can be generated from<br />
various vector tools.<br />
<br />
=== Our cutter ===<br />
We have 50" USCutter MH. It runs "Sure Cuts a Lot" software on the laser cutter machine. They use some dumb registration / activation system, so it can only be installed on one machine.<br />
<br />
== Using the cutter ==<br />
Quick params:<br/><br />
Cut speed - this depends on the complexity of the cut. 10mm/sec for complicated cuts, up to 200mm/sec for big stuff.<br/><br />
Cut Press - play around with this - 50g works well.<br />
<br />
=== Important rules ===<br />
* Don't touch the blade. Not only is it poky, getting any kind of dirt or skin oil on it makes it very unhappy<br />
* Be aware of static electricity - unrolling the vinyl is a mini maelstrom of sparks. Ground yourself and the machine<br />
* Cover the machine when done. Dust is bad.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== New Vinyl setup ===<br />
# Load your vinyl in the roller rack. Note, however, that the cutter does not have the strength to unroll any vinyl, so be sure to unroll more than you need and leave it slack<br />
# Flip all the pinch rollers down, and pull the vinyl through the machine<br />
# Slide the pinch rollers sideways and arrange them over the vinyl. You probably want to use three rollers - two an inch from each of the sides, and one in the middle<br />
# Flip the pinch roller levers up.<br />
# Adjust the cutter blade height. The cutter blade should be exactly as tall as the vinyl. Too tall and it will ruin the cutting surface below. Too short and it won't cut all the way through<br />
## Loosen the brass locknut<br />
## Turn the top, aluminum nut until the blade is completely retracted<br />
## Expose the blade to your guess as to the depth of the vinyl<br />
## Set the locknut<br />
## Press the test button If the backing paper is deeply scored, then blade is too low. If the vinyl isn't cut, the blade is too high. Adjust, lather, rinse, repeat<br />
<br />
=== Setting the origin ===<br />
# Press the Pause button<br />
# Navigate to the desired origin<br />
# Press the Origin button<br />
<br />
=== Software ===<br />
==== Inkscape on Linux ====<br />
* Download the app and get it installed. https://github.com/slandis/InkCutter/<br />
* Make sure you've got the right python libs:<br />
** $ sudo dnf install python-cups pyserial<br />
* Make sure you're in the dialout user group<br />
* Plug in the serial to USB cable from the cutter (USB to USB will not work)<br />
* Open up InkScape<br />
* Draw some useful paths<br />
* Go open up Inkcut in the Extensions menu<br />
* Go adjust the configs, match up the baud rate at 2400 on both the software and on the cutter. Make sure you turn on hardware flow control in the inkscape plot settings.<br />
* Go ahead and cut what you wanna cut<br />
<br />
==== If you have a PostScript file ====<br />
If the above is way too complicated and you are like Henner, just write your stuff directly in PostScript (or generate it otherwise), convert to HPGL and send it to the plotter in a one-liner without leaving the comfort of your shell.<br />
<br />
Make sure to set the plotter to 9600 baud before, the 2400 baud mentioned above in the InkScape setup seems to ''not'' work and run into buffer-troubles.<br />
<br />
pstoedit -xscale 0.98425 -yscale 0.98425 -dt -f hpgl &lt; <b>mypostscript-file.ps</b> | socat STDIO /dev/ttyUSB0,raw,echo=0,crtscts=1,b9600<br />
<br />
The '''pstoedit''' command converts the PostScript file to HPGL, which is the command language typically used by pen plotters or vinyl cutters.<br />
We need to scale to 0.98425 because the cutter seems to have 1/1000" units instead of standard HPGL 1/40mm. The -dt option makes sure to trace letters (the cutter can't deal with text otherwise). Note, only text sufficiently large makes sense on the cutter.<br />
<br />
The '''socat''' command sends the HPGL output of the previous command to the serial interface. It is useful in itself if you already have a HPGL file and want to send it over.<br />
<br />
=== Cutting ===<br />
* Open Sure Cuts a Lot<br />
* Draw<br />
* Unroll enough vinyl<br />
* Click Cut (Cutter if using Sure Cuts a Lot Pro?) -> Cut With US Cutter<br />
* Set mode to "Origin", not "WYSIWYG". This is usually already set.<br />
* Click Cut.<br />
* Profit<br />
<br />
<br />
== Old information about pledges ==<br />
<br />
It was [https://www.noisebridge.net/pipermail/noisebridge-discuss/2013-January/033976.html suggested] that Noisebridge should have a vinyl cutter, which can be purchased for ~$300.<br />
<br />
If you would like to contribute funds toward it, edit this page to add your name to this list:<br />
<br />
* [[User:Yesac|Casey]] - $250 - paid<br />
* [[User:Leif|Leif]] - $50 - paid<br />
* [[User:Lizzard|Liz]] - $20 A bit extra for supplies<br />
* [[User:Molly|Molly]] - $25 - paid<br />
* [[User:Turkshead|Shannon]] - $25 - paid<br />
* Dan - $20 - paid<br />
<br />
If people opt to get the 50" model, the following people will contribute money<br />
<br />
* [[User:Coreyfro|Coreyfro]] - $25<br />
* Larry - $100 - paid<br />
* Arlen - $25 - paid<br />
* Merlin - $25 - paid<br />
<br />
<br />
Invoice<br />
* 50" Derpaderpa cutter w/ shipping + spare blades: 409<br />
<br />
Vinyl we want<br />
* Some matte vinyl - looks better for laptop decals<br />
* Oracal transfer tape is the best</div>Scottyhttps://www.noisebridge.net/index.php?title=Equipment_fund&diff=53128Equipment fund2016-08-04T03:52:17Z<p>Scotty: Undo revision 53088 by ButtMan (talk)</p>
<hr />
<div>This page is for documenting the performance of the Noisebridge Equipment Fund, which was initially seeded by a $15,000 grant from Google. Since Noisebridge is in a relatively stable financial position, consensus was to spend the grant money on new equipment with [[User:Pemulis|John Shutt]] coordinating accounting and reimbursement.<br />
<br />
== Current Status ==<br />
<br />
There is '''$15,000''' left in the equipment fund. This number may not reflect promised reimbursements.<br />
<br />
== Acquisition Process ==<br />
<br />
List ideas here and discuss with the community to make sure there is interest in a particular piece of equipment and a place to put it. The fund will not cover the full cost of the item — you need to raise half of the cost on your own, and the fund will match the other half. This keeps our fundraising muscles strong and proves that there is legitimate interest in getting the item. Consider setting up a project-specific donation page https://donate.noisebridge.net/projects/.<br />
<br />
Reimbursement will happen through PayPal so that recordkeeping and end-of-year accounting will be easier. If anyone wants to help with accounting, contact [[User:Pemulis|John Shutt]].<br />
<br />
== Proposals ==<br />
<br />
{|border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="5"<br />
!Price<br />
!Name<br />
!Approved?<br />
!Purchased?<br />
!Notes<br />
|-<br />
|???<br />
|Laser cutter buildout costs.<br />
|Approved, acquired.<br />
|[[User:Jarrod|Jarrod]] is gathering receipts to be reimbursed.<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|$1000<br />
|New sewing machine.<br />
|Approved, acquired.<br />
|Purchased at a discount by Kyle, [[User:Pemulis|John Shutt]] advanced $500 to purchase and should be reimbursed.<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|$160<br />
|5lb halotron fire extinguisher<br />
|Approved, acquired.<br />
|Purchased by Scotty, who should be reimbursed $80.<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|Cheap, very safe tooling for working with aluminum pours<br />
|Proposed by Trent.<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|New table saw "with a sawstop" - Scotty.<br />
|Proposed by [[User:Tdfischer|Torrie]].<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|A very nice 3D printer<br />
|Proposed by [[User:Tdfischer|Torrie]].<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|Storage-ish things for the sparkleforge<br />
|Proposed by [[User:Tdfischer|Torrie]].<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|Another first aid box<br />
|Proposed by [[User:Tdfischer|Torrie]].<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|Big ass cnc router<br />
|Proposed by Trent.<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|The most amazing bad actor proof rfid door entrance system ever<br />
|Proposed by teratoma.<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|MIG welder<br />
|Proposed by Scotty.<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|Primarily tile and ventilation work for the SparkleForge<br />
|Proposed by Scotty.<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|Welding curtain<br />
|Proposed by Scotty.<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|Chop saw with a proper guard<br />
|Proposed by Scotty.<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|Replace our lathe with something that’s not completely falling apart and broken<br />
|Proposed by Scotty.<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|Floor or tabletop metal punch<br />
|Proposed by [[User:Miloh|Miloh]].<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|Metal break, available as floor or tabletop model<br />
|Proposed by [[User:Miloh|Miloh]].<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|Circle cutters<br />
|Proposed by [[User:Miloh|Miloh]].<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|Dust management for the woodshop<br />
|Proposed by augur.<br />
|<br />
|" i was thinking it might be good to look into a nice powerful motor and a multi-tube octopus-like ceiling fixture that connects to all the work areas. or something like that. something that lets us get all of the dust immediately and with ease, so that people will be more inclined to use it"<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|Xerox phaser 8560<br />
|Proposed by [[User:Miloh|Miloh]]. https://modesto.craigslist.org/ele/5696879637.html<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|$450<br />
|Axidraw.<br />
|Approved, acquired.<br />
|swartzcr has purchased and collected $180 in donations so far. $45 more and we can reimburse the other half, $225.<br />
|http://www.axidraw.com/<br />
|}</div>Scottyhttps://www.noisebridge.net/index.php?title=Laser_Manual&diff=53127Laser Manual2016-08-04T03:52:11Z<p>Scotty: Undo revision 53089 by ButtMan (talk)</p>
<hr />
<div>== Contact list ==<br />
<br />
=== Trainers ===<br />
<br />
* Scotty Allen (@scotty on slack)<br />
* Darryl (@augur on slack)<br />
* Ruth Grace (@ruthgrace on slack)<br />
* Kyle (@kylesewing on slack)<br />
<br />
== Who can use the laser cutter ==<br />
<br />
Only people who have been trained by an official trainer can use the laser cutter, in order to prevent unintended damage to the machine, operator, and Noisebridge.<br />
<br />
People that have successfully completed the class:<br />
* Scotty Allen (@scotty) - Trainer<br />
* Darryl McAdams(@augur) - Trainer<br />
* Ruth Grace Wong (@ruthgrace) - Trainer<br />
* Kyle Ng (@kylesewing) - Trainer<br />
* Henner Zeller (@hzeller)<br />
* Adrian Kelly (@akelly)<br />
* Nick Pisaro (@nickp)<br />
<br />
== How to get trained to use the laser cutter ==<br />
<br />
# Ask a trainer if they will train you<br />
# Schedule a time with the trainer<br />
# Get trained<br />
# Get your name on the list of users before the first time you use the machine<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
* maintaining a verifiable list of users<br />
** users can be found at: URL<br />
<br />
* maintaining a verifiable list of safety? trainers<br />
** trainers can be found at: URL<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Basic Safety ==<br />
The laser cutter is generally a very safe machine to use. However, as with all industrial machines, you need to treat it with respect. The main safety concerns are creating fires, hurting your eyes or skin, getting crushed by the machine, and creating toxic fumes.<br />
<br />
The basics:<br />
* ALWAYS WATCH YOUR WORK!<br />
* OPEN THE LID if you see a fire<br />
* BLOW IT OUT if the fire keeps burning<br />
* DON'T CUT UNAPPROVED MATERIALS!<br />
<br />
=== Fire ===<br />
<br />
You can really hurt yourself or burn the building down with this machine. If you follow the safety rules, the chances of you causing this is close to zero. Some materials are very flammable on the laser cutter, and shouldn't be cut. Never cut an unapproved material, or a material that you don't know what it is. A laser beam can also initiate a fire if the speed of the cut is too slow or the laser power is set too high.<br />
<br />
<br />
Ways to not cause fires:<br />
* ALWAYS WATCH THE LASER CUTTER WHENEVER IT IS CUTTING AS FIRES CAN HAPPEN. The laser affects your material by heating it. Your job can change in seconds with the accumulation of heat in your material. Never leave the room while the laser is in operation. If you leave the laser unattended, your access to the laser cutter will be permanently revoked.<br />
* Use reasonable speed/power settings. Start with the recommended speed/power settings for your material. Be patient - resist the temptation to crank the power and speed to rush through your job. This can cause fires.<br />
** There will be some light when material is cut. This light at the point of lasing may be ok as long as it stays with the motion of the laser. If a flame appears while the laser is in operation, stop your job and try again with lower heat settings.<br />
* Know where the fire extinguisher is in case of a fire. The ONLY fire extinguisher that should be used on the laser cutter is the halotron extinguisher right next to the laser cutter. Other fire extinguishers are corrosive and will ruin the machine.<br />
<br />
How to put out a fire:<br />
* Push the estop. (To turn the machine back on after the estop was hit, you need to switch the power switch on the right hand side of the machine off and on again).<br />
* Open the lid.<br />
* If it's small, try and blow it out.<br />
* If it's smallish, try and squirt it out with the water squirt bottle sitting on the right hand side of the machine.<br />
* If that doesn't work, use the halotron fire extinguisher to the right of the laser cutter. Aim it at the base of the flame.<br />
<br />
=== Damage to eyes and skin ===<br />
The laser beam can instantly and permanently blind you. It can also burn your skin.<br />
* you don't ever want any part of your body in contact with the beam.<br />
* As long as the door is closed, you're safe to look at the laser. There are interlocks on the door that help ensure the laser never operates with the doors open. Don't disable them.<br />
<br />
=== Crushing danger ===<br />
<br />
The laser cutter is a dumb machine. It doesn't care whether your hand is in the way when it's moving. The head can move when the door is open. Always make sure everyone's hands are out of the machine before moving the head.<br />
<br />
Also be very careful not to crash the head into other parts of the machine. Be very careful when moving the z-axis to not crash the head into the bed, and to not move the z-axis if the focus length acrylic circle is under the lens.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Fumes ===<br />
The laser cutter burns the things it's cutting, which can create toxic fumes.<br />
* ONLY CUT APPROVED MATERIALS. Cutting nonapproved materials can release really toxic gases, including chlorine and cyanide. These are really bad for humans, as well as being very damaging to the laser cutter.<br />
* The ventilation fan should always be running if the laser cutter is on, even if it's not cutting. It's currently wired such that you can't turn on the laser cutter without the fan turning on, but please make sure it's running.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Care of the machine ==<br />
<br />
'''Please don't perform any maintenance on the machine (including cleaning lenses/mirrors or aligning mirrors) unless you've specifically trained on it.'''<br />
<br />
The laser cutter is finely calibrated piece of machinery. Please close the lid gently, and do not push or jar the machine at any time. Do not lean or press on the tray - it's fragile, and needs to be perfectly flat for the laser cutter to cut properly. If you take the honeycomb bed or slats out, please be ULTRA CAREFUL with them - put them somewhere where they won't get damaged or warped.<br />
<br />
== Paying for your laser time ==<br />
<br />
The laser cutter has parts that wear out over time, which can be quite costly to replace, especially the laser tube. A new tube costs several thousand dollars. Thus, we require people to pay for the time on the laser they use, so we can pay for new parts.<br />
<br />
To figure out how much time your job takes, press the File button, select your file, and then select Work Time from the menu. It will tell you in hours:minutes.seconds.<br />
<br />
Please pay for the cutting time you actually use, even if you end up running your job multiple times.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Workflows ==<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Overall Workflow ===<br />
<br />
This is the overall structure of the workflow. Each part is elaborated below.<br />
<br />
# Laser start up<br />
# Material setup<br />
# Convert file to DXF<br />
# Load file onto the machine<br />
# Dry run<br />
# Cut/Engrave<br />
# Laser shut down<br />
# Cleanup<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Laser start up ===<br />
<br />
# Turn on power and ensure that the fan and chiller are running<br />
# Move the head as far forward and right as possible, close to the controls<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Material setup ===<br />
<br />
# Clean the bed of any scraps that may be on it<br />
# Move the cut head as far forward and right as possible (near the controls)<br />
# Raise the laser head as far up as possible<br />
# Raise the bed to the desired height, watching the laser head to avoid crashes<br />
# Move the laser head as far back and right as possible<br />
# Place material on the bed<br />
# Focus the laser (do at least for each distinct thickness, optimally do for each piece of material)<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Focusing the laser ===<br />
<br />
Noisebridge has acryllic disks cut to various thicknesses that can be used to accurately focus the laser. Specifically the laser head needs to be locked to 8mm above the surface of the material you're cutting.<br />
<br />
# Place the material on the cut bed<br />
# Move the cut head to the center of the area to cut, watching the laser head to avoid crashes w/ material<br />
# Loosen the wing nut and raise the head all the way up<br />
# Place the focusing discs on the material under the head<br />
# Lower the head until it just touches the focusing disc (8mm above material)<br />
# Lock the head in place (tighten the wing nut)<br />
# Remove the focusing discs<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Convert an image in Inkscape to a DXF file ===<br />
<br />
# Load the image into Inkscape<br />
# Set the different cut paths to different colors (for controlling settings, etc.)<br />
# Save as a DXF. Be sure to make the units be millimeters so that importing later will correctly scale the image.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Debugging DXF Problems ===<br />
<br />
Sometimes exporting to DXF introduces bizarre extra lines. There are two things to try to debug. The first is to convert objects to paths:<br />
<br />
# Select all the problematic shapes<br />
# Path > Object to Path<br />
<br />
If this fails to resolve the issue, you can try a more radical solution which will eliminate all bezier paths entirely:<br />
<br />
# Select all the problematic shapes<br />
# Convert bezier paths to lines (Extensions > Modify Path > Flatten Bezier).<br />
<br />
Flatness 0.5 is good to start with. Smaller = better approximation of the curves. A lower flatness number takes more time to compute, but also produces a better approximation to the curve.<br />
<br />
Sometimes need to select the path's directly with the path tool (but not the points!).<br />
<br />
=== Loading into the laser cutter software ===<br />
<br />
# Import the file with File > Import<br />
# Resize as needed, tho if the file was exported w/ millimeter units, the software should also import the image with the correct size.<br />
# Set the cut order:<br />
##* EITHER Set the cut order to inside-out (Handle > Cut optimize > Inside to outside)<br />
##* OR Manually specify cut order with the Set cut property tool (Edit > Set cutting property). See below for more details.<br />
# Set the speed and power for the layers as necessary.<br />
# Optionally, simulate the cutting/engraving process.<br />
# Download to the machine (Laser Work panel on the bottom right).<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Manually specifying cut order ===<br />
<br />
In the Set cutting property window (Edit > Set cutting property), you can manually re-order the cut paths. In the window, you'll see an image of the workpiece, and to its right, two lists of paths. When you first open the window, all of the cut paths are in the left. If you select a path (either in the image or in the list) and click the button labeled ">>", this path will be transferred to the end of the right list of paths. If you click ">>>", all of the paths in the left list will be moved to the end of the right list (preserving order). Similarly, clicking "<<<" will move the right list to the end of the left list. If you select a cut path in the right list, the up and down arrow buttons will reorder that path in the chosen direction.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Loading speed and power settings from library ===<br />
<br />
# In the top right panel, double click the layer of interest<br />
# Click "Load parameters from library"<br />
# Select the library item<br />
# Click "Load"<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Saving power and speed settings to library ===<br />
<br />
# In the top right panel, double click the layer of interest<br />
# Make sure the layer is set to the desired parameters<br />
# Click "Load parameters from library"<br />
# Click "Save as"<br />
# Enter a name and optionally some notes<br />
# Click "Ok"<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Simulation ===<br />
<br />
# Open the simulation window with either Edit > Preview or the toolbar button labelled with a monitor.<br />
# Click the Simulation button in the right panel<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Cutting ===<br />
<br />
# Select the file to use using the File button<br />
# Move the head to the initial guess origin with the arrow buttons<br />
# Test the frame with the Frame button adjust origin as necessary<br />
# Set the origin by pressing Origin<br />
# Test the cut by turning the laser power off and pressing the Start/Pause button<br />
# Turn the laser power on<br />
# Cut by pressing the Start/Pause button<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Engraving ===<br />
<br />
TODO<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Cancel a cut/dry run ===<br />
<br />
# Pause with the Start/Pause button<br />
# Cancel and move back to the origin with the Esc button<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Laser shut down ===<br />
<br />
# Move the head as far forward and right as possible (near the controls)<br />
# Raise the laser head as far up as possible<br />
# Let the fan run for a little bit (~30 seconds)<br />
# Turn the power off<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Cleanup ===<br />
<br />
# Remove pieces of material scrap left on the bed<br />
# Open the tray door on the front bottom and empty the scraps left there<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Calculating work time ===<br />
<br />
On the computer:<br />
<br />
* Open the simulation window (see above). Total work time and time of laser use are displayed in the top right. Donations should be calculated by laser use, not total work time.<br />
<br />
On the machine:<br />
<br />
* Whole file: File > Select file > Right Arrow > Work Time > Enter<br />
* Current run: Pause the cut, then check time at the bottom right<br />
<br />
== Fusion 360 ==<br />
Fusion 360 is a free CAD (Computer Aided Design) program from Autodesk for designing 3D parts, and arguably the best one currently available. If you're designing something complex on the laser cutter, particularly with multiple parts that need to fit together, I highly recommend it over drawing programs like Inkscape. It also has CAM (Computer Aided Manufacturing) capabilities, which makes it very useful for CNC machining and laser cutting. There's a copy of the software on the laser cutter computer, and you can download it [http://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview here]. It's free as long as you make less than $100k per year using it.<br />
<br />
=== Workflow ===<br />
# Design a part to be laser cut by drawing a 2D sketch and extruding it<br />
# Go to the CAM workspace by clicking the Model button in the top left, then selecting CAM<br />
# Select the Waterjet operation<br />
## Set Type to Laser Cutting<br />
## Select the Cutting Mode. I've only tried Through - Auto, but I don't think the different quality settings do anything.<br />
## Look up the kerf of the material you're cutting in the [[#Known good materials]] section, and enter that in Kerf Width, or if your material's not listed, cut one a [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1166680 kerf gauge] and put the result in the wiki. The kerf changes depending on the thickness, speed and power. Setting a larger kerf width will make your parts fit tighter, and a smaller kerf will make them looser.<br />
## Select the contours of your part that you want to cut<br />
## Go to the Passes tab, and change Compensation Type to In Computer<br />
## Hit OK to close the dialog box, and you can see a preview of your tool path. You can go back to edit it by double clicking the contour operation in the tree on the left<br />
# To export to DXF, click the Post Process button, which says G1 G2. Make sure rdworkslaser is selected as your post processor, type a name for the export and hit Post. Then select the folder to put it in.<br />
# Import the DXF in RDWorks, and continue with the standard workflow starting at [[#Loading into the laser cutter software]]<br />
# Fusion automatically orders the cuts from inside out and in the fastest order, so there's no need to do it again in RDWorks.<br />
<br />
=== Advanced Options ===<br />
# If you're using your own computer for the first time and not the laser cutter desktop, you have to enable the laser cutter support which is still in beta, by clicking on your name in the top right, then Preferences, Preview, and checking "CAM - Waterjet/Laser/Plasma cutter support". You will also need to download the custom post processor that we use for this laser.<br />
# If you want to specify the order manually in Fusion, you can check Preserve Order under the Passes tab, and then it cuts them in the same order that you selected them.<br />
# There's a simulate button to the left of the Post Process button, if you want to do it in Fusion<br />
# If you want to disable or tweak the lead ins and lead outs, you can go to the Linking tab. Lead ins and lead outs can fix the bump you get on the side of your part where the laser started and stopped, but they also make extra cuts in your scrap material, which you may want to keep. In this tab you can also specify the Entry Position for each cut path.<br />
# You can disable Kerf Compensation by settting Sideways Compensation to Center under the Passes tab, though this is not reccomended<br />
<br />
<br />
== Maintenance==<br />
<br />
'''Please don't perform any maintenance on the machine (including cleaning lenses/mirrors or aligning mirrors) unless you've specifically trained on it.'''<br />
<br />
* TEMP note: some check(s) may be included outside of maintenance so a user can trigger a maintenance notification<br />
* DON'T - let someone who has been trained do it<br />
* how to tell if the lens is dirty (or getting old?)<br />
* how to tell if the mirrors are dirty<br />
** Cleaning the mirrors<br />
*** ethanol solution? isopropanol? - see manual.<br />
*** fabric must be non scratch - see manual.<br />
* Checking and performing mirror alignment<br />
** Safety - remove gratings and any other reflective surfaces before any maintenance that requires disabling the door sensors.<br />
** TEMP note: in restrospect the alignment was a very dangerous situation. mirror paths were not checked before powering on the laser with the door open with many people around. (or maybe nigel is just insanely good at configuring mirrors... still... reddit.com/r/OSHA)<br />
** Tape test - mirrors 1,2,3 and their corresponding exits. Slightly propped laser tube.<br />
** vertical/horizontal alignment by brass dial.<br />
* Checking chiller tank water volume<br />
** Chiller alarm - what does it mean<br />
** Checking tank water volume<br />
** Refilling tank water<br />
* Cleaning the bed and waste drawer (this section probably should be moved to usage)<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Signs:<br />
* <strike>Don't open front/back passthrough doors (for now)</strike><br />
* <strike>Fire extinguishers - which to use for what fire</strike><br />
* Approved materials<br />
* <strike>careful when raising bed, dont crash into laser head</strike><br />
* move laser head out of the way before opening the lid<br />
* power off the laser before opening the lid ???<br />
* <strike>watch the laser while it is cutting</strike><br />
<br />
<br />
Todos:<br />
* <strike>Move the machine further away from the right wall so we can get to the power switch.</strike><br />
* <strike>label the water squirt bottle as for fires and not to remove</strike><br />
* acquire piece of copper for chlorine materials test<br />
* acquire vinyl record for testing<br />
* acquire propane bottle and nozzle<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
material notes<br />
* material selection - approved materials list<br />
** nothing that generates hazerdous fumes, particularly chlorine/formeldahyde<br />
** no aluminum or other metals (?? ryan claims these can be safely engraved in this machine)<br />
** nothing reflective<br />
** size constraints<br />
* laser configuration - power, speed<br />
** table of recommmended settings for various materials<br />
<br />
How to get a new/novel material approved<br />
* consensus process<br />
* chlorine test<br />
<br />
== Chlorine material test ==<br />
<br />
Before you cut any new material you *must* check that it is safe to cut; specifically that it will not produce chlorine gas when it is burned by the cutting laser. Chlorine is extremely dangerous in its gaseous form and so must be avoided at all costs. <br />
<br />
To test a new material, you'll need a sample of the material, a small copper rod (about the thickness of a coat hanger), a pliars, and a handheld propane torch. We'll test for the presence of chlorine by burning a sample of the material in a high temperature propane flame and observe the visible emission spectra. Chrlorine produces a bright green light when burned, and so will be very obvious when you're testing your material.<br />
<br />
First, light the propane torch and set it to rest upright on a stable surface. Taking the pliar, hold the piece of copper in the blue part of the flame to heat it. As the copper begins to heat sufficiently it'll cause the flame to turn an orange color. A consistent orange color means that the copper has no residue material on its surface and so is clean enough to use as a test. If you observe non-orange flames when you burn the copper you may need to clean in further, either by waiting for the excess material to burn off, or by scrubbing the surface of the copper when it has cooled.<br />
<br />
Once the copper is burning, take the hot copper and melt a sample of the new material onto it. For example if you were testing a new form of plastic you can roll the hot copper rod on the material, melting some of it onto the copper rod's surface.<br />
<br />
With this done, place the copper rod back into the blue part of the flame. Observe the colors of the emission spectra from the new material burning. If you observe a bright green color, then the material contains chlorine and thus *must not* be burned further. Ventilate your surrounding area to avoid breathing it in. If you observe no green color as you burn your material sample, then the material is likely safe to use with the laser cutter.<br />
<br />
Here is a video example by Zach in NYCResistor with a known good and known bad material: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D0_4NLmeSTI<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== BANNED MATERIALS (NEVER USE THESE) ==<br />
<br />
These materials '''must not be used in the laser cutter'''. <br />
<br />
{|border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"<br />
|-<br />
! colspan="10" bgcolor="#ccc" | Bad materials<br />
|-<br />
! Material<br />
! Notes<br />
|-<br />
| PVC || Contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br />
|-<br />
| Vinyl || Most contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br />
|- <br />
| PVC Foams || Most contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br />
|- <br />
| Foam Core || Usually made with PVC which is harmful as listed above. <br />
|- <br />
| Styrofoam || Can cause flash fires<br />
|-<br />
| Polycarbonate or PETG || Does not cut. TAP plastics sells both this and acrylic. '''Be sure to read your labels when purchasing material'''. Lexan is the trade name for Polycarbonate, while Plexiglass is the trade name for acrylic.<br />
|- <br />
| ABS || Gives of hydrogen cyanide<br />
|- <br />
| Fiberglass ||<br />
|- <br />
| Metals || Cannot be etched by this type of laser. Also is harmful as the reflective surface may cause the laser to be reflected back up to the head, damaging it. If someone claims to be etching metal using this type of laser then they are etching a metal with a plastic coating, anodized surface, or some other etchable surface on top.<br />
<br />
|}<br />
<br />
== Known good materials ==<br />
<br />
These materials are known to be ok for use with the laser cutter. The speed and power of the laser cutter will need to be set appropriately for the material and thickness in use. Below is a table showing the suggested settings when cutting or etching them.<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" <br />
|-<br />
! colspan="10" bgcolor="#cccccc" | Cardboards/Papers<br />
|-<br />
! rowspan="2" | Material<br />
! colspan="3" | Engraving <br />
! colspan="3" | Cutting<br />
! colspan="2" | Scoring<br />
! rowspan="1" | Notes<br />
|-<br />
! Speed (mm/s) !! Power !! DPI !! Speed !! Power !! Kerf Width !! Speed !! Power ||<br />
|-<br />
|-<br />
<br />
|-<br />
| Acrylic (clear, 3mm) || || || || 20 mm/s || 55% || || || ||<br />
<br />
|-<br />
| Acrylic (clear, 12.5mm) || || || || 3 mm/s || 55% || || || || Focal length is 4mm<br />
<br />
|-<br />
| Acrylic (clear, 18mm) || || || || 6 mm/s || 55% || || || || Focal length is 4mm; cuts require three passes, don't move piece between passes<br />
<br />
|-<br />
| Cardboard (4mm) || || || || 50 mm/s || 15% || || 50 mm/s || 5% || Minimum line separation at 50/15 = 1/2mm (see reference cuts for more details)<br />
<br />
|}<br />
<br />
== Sourcing Material ==<br />
<br />
In general, you can get stuff form Amazon, but you have to wait for shipping.<br />
<br />
For plastics: [http://www.google.com/maps/place/TAP+Plastics/@37.7711648,-122.4207603,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f7e27351bb079:0x7e3610d7dc178b10!8m2!3d37.7711648!4d-122.4185663 Tap Plastics] is nearby Noisebridge, but is expensive, [http://eplastics.com eplastics] is cheaper but you need to wait for shipping, and [https://www.google.com/maps/place/Mr.+Plastics/@37.7091519,-122.1546962,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f8fe7938349a3:0xafcb2526326faccd!8m2!3d37.7091519!4d-122.1525022 Mr. Plastics] is cheapest but is in San Leandro.<br />
<br />
For woods: [http://www.google.com/maps/place/Discount+Builders+Supply/@37.7704879,-122.4191311,15z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0x3c0d6c6e25a89652?sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjV87WU-JzOAhUI6WMKHSPABOUQ_BIIeTAK Discount Builder Supply] is nearby.</div>Scottyhttps://www.noisebridge.net/index.php?title=User:Scotty&diff=53126User:Scotty2016-08-04T03:50:47Z<p>Scotty: Undo revision 53125 by ButtMan (talk)</p>
<hr />
<div><br />
= Scotty Allen =<br />
<br />
[[File:scotty.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
Email: <firstname>@<firstname><lastname>.com<br />
<br />
== About ==<br />
<br />
I'm a nomadic tech entrepreneur. The center of my orbit is San Francisco, but I spend only about half of my time there. I spend the rest of the time out traveling the world. Noisebridge is my home hackerspace, but I try and visit other hackerspaces whenever I'm traveling. I write code and build software companies for work, but I like building physical things and dong adventurous things in my spare time.<br />
<br />
== Projects ==<br />
<br />
=== Sous vide machine ===<br />
<br />
I made a sous vide machine, for cooking meat and eggs in a precisely controlled temperature bath. It's based around an Arduino Uno, a thermocouple for temperature measurement, and an acquarium pump pushing water across three immersion coils. I like to say that my favorite part of cooking is soldering and writing code.<br />
<br />
[[File:scotty_sous_vide_machine.jpg|Welding at Techshop|x200px]] [[File:scotty_sous_vide_meat.jpg|Welding at Techshop|x200px]]<br />
<br />
=== Bookshelves ===<br />
<br />
[[Bookshelves]]<br />
<br />
I helped [[User:nthmost]], [[User:Fineline]], and others build some new bookcases for Noisebridge, based on the golden ratio/golden spiral.<br />
<br />
[[File:bookcase.jpg|x200px]]<br />
<br />
=== Welding and Machining ===<br />
<br />
I've always wanted to learn to weld and machine metal. I've been gradually learning both over the past few years, mostly at Techshop, but some at noisebridge too. Well, mostly trying to get Noisebridge's metalworking tools online, really.<br />
<br />
A few random photos of stuff I've done:<br />
<br />
[[File:Landyacht welding.jpg|Welding at Techshop|200px]] [[File:scotty_side_table.jpg|200px]] [[File:scotty_table.jpg|350px]] [[File:scotty_metal_turning.JPG|350px]]<br />
<br />
=== Wood turning ===<br />
<br />
I'm into making wooden bowls from green wood. I mostly use wood I get from free from tree trimmers that discard it, usually by advertising it as free firewood on Craigslist.<br />
<br />
Here are some samples of my work:<br />
<br />
[[File:scotty_wood_turning.JPG|x200px]]<br />
[[File:scotty_bowl_1.JPG|x200px]]<br />
[[File:scotty_bowl_2.jpg|x200px]]<br />
[[File:scotty_bowl_3.jpg|x200px]]<br />
<br />
=== Land sailing ===<br />
<br />
I saw a few pictures online of land yachts, and thought it woudl be a good weekend project. 4 months later, I was finished:)<br />
<br />
I took it to the Nevada desert in March for the America's Landsailing Cup. I placed 9th in my class, which sounds impressive until you learn I was only competing in a field of 15. It's a very small sport in the US.<br />
<br />
Here's what it looked like putting some finishing touches on a new sail at Noisebridge.<br />
<br />
[[File:450px-Landyacht_finished.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
I wrote a [http://blog.noisebridge.net/2015/02/03/land-yacht-no-not-that-kind-of-land-yacht/ blog post] about it.<br />
<br />
Here's some [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q_mPRX7lXRE video] I took during the America's Landsailing Cup, and some [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uzKgdt2PFDg unedited video] from just playing around and practicing.<br />
<br />
=== Hang gliding ===<br />
<br />
I've been learning to hang glide over the past year or so.<br />
<br />
[[File:scotty_hangglide.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
=== Laser cutter documentation ===<br />
<br />
[[Laser Cutter Manual Source Documents]]<br />
<br />
=== Hackerspace Mobile ===<br />
<br />
[[:File:Hackermobile.svg]]</div>Scottyhttps://www.noisebridge.net/index.php?title=DreamTeam/Reading&diff=53124DreamTeam/Reading2016-08-04T03:49:01Z<p>Scotty: Undo revision 53116 by ButtMan (talk)</p>
<hr />
<div>(note wiki contains some useful clues re previous neuro research at Noisebridge ... For example, the [[Analog_EEG_Amp]] page describes some project ideas and work done by others here in 2012) <br />
<br />
https://metacademy.org/<br />
-- machine learning knowledge graph<br />
<br />
http://www.thetalkingmachines.com/ -- podcast<br />
<br />
== Neurophysiology ==<br />
<br />
http://www.buzsakilab.com/content/PDFs/BuzsakiKoch2012.pdf -- "The origin of extracellular fields and<br />
currents — EEG, ECoG, LFP and spikes"<br />
<br />
== Signal Processing ==<br />
<br />
http://provideyourown.com/2011/analogwrite-convert-pwm-to-voltage/ -- "Arduino’s AnalogWrite – Converting PWM to a Voltage"<br />
<br />
http://sim.okawa-denshi.jp/en/PWMtool.php -- "RC Low-pass Filter Design for PWM (Transient Analysis Calculator)"<br />
<br />
== Hyperdimensional Computing ==<br />
<br />
http://redwood.berkeley.edu/pkanerva/papers/kanerva09-hyperdimensional.pdf --<br />
"Hyperdimensional Computing: An Introduction to Computing in Distributed Representation with High-Dimensional Random Vectors"<br />
<br />
http://arxiv.org/pdf/1602.03032.pdf --<br />
"Associative Long Short-Term Memory"<br />
<br />
== Bird Flocks and Maximum Entropy ==<br />
<br />
http://arxiv.org/pdf/1107.0604v1 --<br />
"Statistical Mechanics and Flocks of Birds"<br />
<br />
http://arxiv.org/pdf/1307.5563v1 --<br />
"Social interactions dominate speed control in driving natural flocks toward criticality"<br />
<br />
http://ocw.mit.edu/courses/electrical-engineering-and-computer-science/6-050j-information-and-entropy-spring-2008/syllabus/MIT6_050JS08_penfield.pdf --<br />
"Information and Entropy (Course Notes)"<br />
<br />
== Whale Songs ==<br />
<br />
https://www.researchgate.net/profile/Herbert_Roitblat/publication/13429327_The_neural_network_classification_of_false_killer_whale_%28Pseudorca_crassidens%29_vocalizations/links/540d2ff60cf2df04e75478cd.pdf -- "The neural network classification of false killer whale (Pseudorca crassidens) vocalizations"<br />
<br />
http://users.iit.demokritos.gr/~paliourg/papers/PhD.pdf -- "REFINEMENT OF TEMPORAL CONSTRAINTS IN AN EVENT RECOGNITION SYSTEM USING SMALL DATASETS"<br />
<br />
https://www.nersc.no/sites/www.nersc.no/files/master_thesis_sebastian_menze.pdf -- "Estimating fin whale distribution from ambient noise spectra using Bayesian inversion"<br />
<br />
http://sis.univ-tln.fr/~glotin/IJCNN2015_IHMMbioac_BartChamGlot.pdf -- "Hierarchical Dirichlet Process Hidden Markov Model for Unsupervised Bioacoustic Analysis"<br />
<br />
https://www.inf.ed.ac.uk/publications/thesis/online/IM030057.pdf -- "Hidden Markov Model Clustering of Acoustic Data"<br />
<br />
== Computational Cognitive Neuroscience ==<br />
<br />
http://www.pnas.org/content/110/41/16390.full -- "Indirection and symbol-like processing in the prefrontal cortex and basal ganglia"<br />
<br />
http://ruccs.rutgers.edu/images/personal-zenon-pylyshyn/docs/jaf.pdf -- "Connectionism and Cognitive Architecture: A Critical Analysis"<br />
<br />
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2728678/pdf/nihms131814.pdf -- Neves et al 2008 "Cell Shape and Negative Links in Regulatory Motifs Together Control Spatial Information Flow in Signaling Networks"<br />
<br />
http://psych.colorado.edu/~oreilly/papers/AisaMingusOReilly08.pdf -- "The Emergent Neural Modeling System"<br />
<br />
https://grey.colorado.edu/emergent/index.php/Comparison_of_Neural_Network_Simulators<br />
<br />
== Text Generation ==<br />
<br />
http://www.cs.toronto.edu/~ilya/pubs/2011/LANG-RNN.pdf -- "Generating Text with Recurrent Neural Networks"<br />
<br />
== Games ==<br />
<br />
http://setgame.com/sites/default/files/teacherscorner/COGNITIVE%20MODELING%20WITH%20SET.pdf -- "How to Construct a Believable Opponent using Cognitive Modeling in the Game of Set"<br />
<br />
http://www-personal.umich.edu/~charchan/SET.pdf -- "SETs and Anti-SETs: The Math Behind the Game of SET"<br />
<br />
http://personal.plattsburgh.edu/quenelgt/talks/set.pdf -- "Introduction to Set"<br />
<br />
http://web.engr.illinois.edu/~pbg/papers/set.pdf -- "On the Complexity of the Game of Set"<br />
<br />
http://www.warwick.ac.uk/staff/D.Maclagan/papers/set.pdf -- "The Card Game Set"<br />
<br />
http://www.math.ucdavis.edu/~anne/FQ2011/set_game.pdf -- "The Game Set"<br />
<br />
== Large Scale Brain Simulation ==<br />
<br />
http://www.nowere.net/b/arch/96550/src/1378907656268.pdf -- "A world survey of artificial brain projects, Part I: Large-scale brain simulations"<br />
<br />
== Music ==<br />
<br />
http://cmr.soc.plymouth.ac.uk/publications/bci-wkshop.pdf -- "ON GENERATING EEG FOR CONTROLLING MUSICAL SYSTEMS"<br />
<br />
== Code ==<br />
<br />
https://github.com/nbdt/gotrain (our ANN code)<br />
<br />
https://github.com/nbdt/openbci-golang-server (EEG data acquisition and visualization software for OpenBCI)<br />
<br />
== Hidden Markov Models ==<br />
<br />
http://www.cs.sjsu.edu/~stamp/RUA/HMM.pdf<br />
-- "A Revealing Introduction to Hidden Markov Models"<br />
<br />
http://www.jelmerborst.nl/pubs/Borst2013b.pdf<br />
-- "Discovering Processing Stages by combining EEG with Hidden Markov Models"<br />
<br />
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2230664/pdf/nihms-34528.pdf<br />
-- "A Stochastic Framework for Evaluating Seizure Prediction Algorithms Using Hidden Markov Models"<br />
<br />
http://www.schalklab.org/sites/default/files/misc/Coupled%20hidden%20markov%20model%20for%20electrocorticographic%20signal%20classification.pdf<br />
-- "Coupled Hidden Markov Model for Electrocorticographic Signal Classification"<br />
<br />
== Long Short Term Memory ==<br />
<br />
http://deeplearning.cs.cmu.edu/pdfs/Hochreiter97_lstm.pdf<br />
-- "Long Short-Term Memory"<br />
<br />
ftp://ftp.idsia.ch/pub/juergen/2002_icannMusic.pdf<br />
-- "Learning The Long-Term Structure of the Blues"<br />
<br />
http://www.overcomplete.net/papers/nn2012.pdf<br />
-- "A generalized LSTM-like training algorithm for second-order recurrent neural networks"<br />
<br />
http://www.iro.umontreal.ca/~eckdoug/papers/2003_nn.pdf<br />
-- "Kalman filters improve LSTM network performance in problems unsolvable by traditional recurrent nets"<br />
<br />
http://googleresearch.blogspot.ch/2015/09/google-voice-search-faster-and-more.html<br />
-- "Long Short-Term Memory dramatically improves Google Voice etc"<br />
<br />
== Question Answering ==<br />
<br />
http://www.overcomplete.net/papers/bica2012.pdf<br />
-- "Neural Architectures for Learning to Answer Questions"<br />
<br />
https://cs.umd.edu/~miyyer/pubs/2014_qb_rnn.pdf<br />
-- "A Neural Network for Factoid Question Answering over Paragraphs"<br />
<br />
http://arxiv.org/pdf/1502.05698.pdf<br />
-- "Towards AI-Complete Question Answering: A Set of Prerequisite Toy Tasks"<br />
<br />
http://www.peterschueller.com/pub/2014/2014_winograd_schemas_relevance_knowledge_graphs.pdf<br />
-- "Tackling Winograd Schemas by Formalizing Relevance Theory in Knowledge Graphs"<br />
<br />
http://ijcai.org/papers15/Papers/IJCAI15-190.pdf<br />
-- "Towards Addressing the Winograd Schema Challenge — Building and Using a Semantic Parser and a Knowledge Hunting Module"<br />
<br />
http://arxiv.org/pdf/1506.05869v2.pdf<br />
-- "A Neural Conversational Model"<br />
<br />
http://arxiv.org/pdf/1508.05508v1.pdf<br />
-- "Towards Neural Network-based Reasoning"<br />
<br />
http://www.visualqa.org/vqa_iccv2015.pdf<br />
-- "VQA: Visual Question Answering"<br />
<br />
== Propagators ==<br />
Cells must support three operations:<br />
*add some content<br />
*collect the content currently accumulated<br />
*register a propagator to be notified when the accumulated content changes<br />
*When new content is added to a cell, the cell must merge the addition with the content already present. When a propagator asks for the content of a cell, the cell must deliver a complete summary of the information that has been added to it.<br />
*The merging of content must be commutative, associative, and idempotent. The behavior of propagators must be monotonic with respect to the lattice induced by the merge operation.<br />
*http://web.mit.edu/~axch/www/art.pdf *http://groups.csail.mit.edu/mac/users/gjs/propagators/<br />
*http://dustycloud.org/blog/sussman-on-ai/<br />
<br />
== Boosting ==<br />
<br />
http://www.cs.princeton.edu/courses/archive/spr08/cos424/readings/Schapire2003.pdf<br />
-- "The Boosting Approach to Machine Learning An Overview"<br />
<br />
http://citeseerx.ist.psu.edu/viewdoc/download?doi=10.1.1.19.9955&rep=rep1&type=pdf<br />
-- "Ensembling Neural Networks: Many Could Be Better Than All"<br />
<br />
http://www.cs.columbia.edu/~rocco/Public/mlj9.pdf<br />
-- "Random Classification Noise Defeats All Convex Potential Boosters"<br />
<br />
== Support Vector Machines ==<br />
<br />
http://research.microsoft.com/en-us/um/people/cburges/papers/svmtutorial.pdf<br />
-- "A Tutorial on Support Vector Machines for Pattern Recognition"<br />
<br />
== Wire Length / Small World Networks ==<br />
<br />
http://koulakovlab.cshl.edu/publications/koulakov_chklovskii_2000.pdf<br />
-- "A wire length minimization approach to ocular dominance patterns in mammalian visual cortex"<br />
<br />
http://papers.nips.cc/paper/1910-foundations-for-a-circuit-complexity-theory-of-sensory-processing.pdf<br />
-- "Foundations for a Circuit Complexity Theory of Sensory Processing"<br />
<br />
https://www.nada.kth.se/~cjo/documents/small_world.pdf<br />
-- "Small-World Connectivity and Attractor Neural Networks"<br />
<br />
http://www.doc.ic.ac.uk/~mpsha/ShanahanPhysRevEPreprint.pdf<br />
-- "The Dynamical Complexity of Small-World Networks of Spiking Neurons"<br />
<br />
http://www.dam.brown.edu/people/elie/papers/small_world.pdf<br />
-- "Autoassociative Memory Retrieval and Spontaneous Activity Bumps in Small-World Networks of Integrate-and-Fire Neurons"<br />
<br />
http://citeseerx.ist.psu.edu/viewdoc/download?doi=10.1.1.332.4501&rep=rep1&type=pdf<br />
-- "Transition from Random to Small-World Neural Networks by STDP Learning Rule"<br />
<br />
http://tamar.tau.ac.il/~eshel/papers/J_Neural_Engineering.pdf<br />
-- "Compact self-wiring in cultured neural networks"<br />
<br />
== Backpropagation ==<br />
<br />
http://page.mi.fu-berlin.de/rojas/neural/neuron.pdf -- "Neural Networks - A Systematic Introduction"<br />
<br />
http://www4.rgu.ac.uk/files/chapter3%20-%20bp.pdf (works through simple example)<br />
<br />
http://mattmazur.com/2015/03/17/a-step-by-step-backpropagation-example/<br />
<br />
http://page.mi.fu-berlin.de/rojas/neural/chapter/K7.pdf<br />
<br />
also see http://page.mi.fu-berlin.de/rojas/neural/neuron.pdf (entire book "Neural Networks - a Systemic Introduction" by Raul Rojas)<br />
<br />
http://work.caltech.edu/lectures.html Hoeffding's inequality, VC Dimension and Back Propagation ANN<br />
<br />
http://www.cs.stir.ac.uk/research/publications/techreps/pdf/TR148.pdf ("Learning XOR: exploring the space of a classic problem")<br />
<br />
http://www.sysc.pdx.edu/classes/Werbos-Backpropagation%20through%20time.pdf<br />
-- "Backpropagation Through Time: What it Does and How to Do It"<br />
<br />
== Convolutional Neural Networks ==<br />
<br />
http://scs.ryerson.ca/~aharley/vis/harley_vis_isvc15.pdf -- "An Interactive Node-Link Visualization<br />
of Convolutional Neural Networks"<br />
<br />
http://white.stanford.edu/teach/index.php/An_Introduction_to_Convolutional_Neural_Networks<br />
<br />
http://www.cv-foundation.org/openaccess/content_cvpr_2015/papers/Dosovitskiy_Learning_to_Generate_2015_CVPR_paper.pdf -- "Learning to Generate Chairs With Convolutional Neural Networks"<br />
<br />
http://www.pamitc.org/cvpr15/files/lecun-20150610-cvpr-keynote.pdf<br />
-- "What's Wrong With Deep Learning?"<br />
<br />
== Computer Vision ==<br />
<br />
http://www.cv-foundation.org/openaccess/CVPR2015.py -- some interesting papers here<br />
<br />
http://www.cv-foundation.org/openaccess/content_cvpr_2015/papers/Nguyen_Deep_Neural_Networks_2015_CVPR_paper.pdf -- "Deep Neural Networks are Easily Fooled: High Confidence Predictions for Unrecognizable Images"<br />
<br />
== Visual Perception (Biological Systems) ==<br />
<br />
http://cbcl.mit.edu/publications/ps/Serre_etal_PBR07.pdf<br />
-- "A quantitative theory of immediate visual recognition"<br />
<br />
http://www.dam.brown.edu/ptg/REPORTS/Invariance.pdf<br />
-- "Invariance and Selectivity in the Ventral Visual Pathway"<br />
<br />
http://www.cnbc.cmu.edu/~tai/papers/lee_mumford_josa.pdf<br />
-- "Hierarchical Bayesian inference in the visual cortex"<br />
<br />
== Neural Synchrony ==<br />
<br />
http://arxiv.org/pdf/1312.6115.pdf<br />
-- "Neuronal Synchrony in Complex-Valued Deep Networks"<br />
<br />
== Spiking Neural Networks ==<br />
<br />
http://ncs.ethz.ch/projects/evospike/publications/ICONIP2011%20Springer%20LNCS%20Nutta.pdf -- "EEG Classification with BSA Spike Encoding Algorithm and Evolving Probabilistic Spiking Neural Network"<br />
<br />
http://dai.fmph.uniba.sk/~benus/confers/CNGM_ICANN05.pdf -- "Computational Neurogenetic Modeling: Integration of Spiking Neural Networks, Gene Networks, and Signal Processing Techniques"<br />
<br />
http://citeseerx.ist.psu.edu/viewdoc/summary?doi=10.1.1.97.3902 -- "Pattern Recognition in a Bucket"<br />
<br />
http://www.igi.tugraz.at/maass/psfiles/221.pdf -- "Noise as a Resource for Computation and Learning in Spiking Neural Networks"<br />
<br />
http://web.stanford.edu/group/brainsinsilicon/goals.html -- Neurogrid<br />
<br />
http://apt.cs.manchester.ac.uk/projects/SpiNNaker/ -- SpiNNaker<br />
<br />
http://personalpages.manchester.ac.uk/staff/javier.navaridas/pubs/2012.jpdc.pdf -- more on SpiNNaker<br />
<br />
==Hierarchical Temporal Memory==<br />
<br />
https://github.com/numenta/nupic/wiki/Hierarchical-Temporal-Memory-Theory<br />
<br />
http://journals.plos.org/ploscompbiol/article?id=10.1371/journal.pcbi.1000532 -- "Towards a Mathematical Theory of Cortical Micro-circuits"<br />
<br />
==Distributed Neural Networks==<br />
<br />
https://www.paypal-engineering.com/2015/01/12/deep-learning-on-hadoop-2-0-2/ -- paypal engineering blog, paper describes implementation of neural network as described by [http://www.maths.bris.ac.uk/~maxvd/reduce_dim.pdf Hinton 2006] on Hadoop<br />
<br />
http://www.sciencemag.org/content/suppl/2006/08/04/313.5786.504.DC1/Hinton.SOM.pdf -- supplementary material for [http://www.maths.bris.ac.uk/~maxvd/reduce_dim.pdf Hinton 2006]<br />
<br />
http://www.cs.otago.ac.nz/staffpriv/hzy/papers/pdcs03.pdf -- "Parallelization of a Backpropagation Neural Network on a Cluster Computer"<br />
<br />
http://arxiv.org/pdf/1404.5997v2.pdf -- "One weird trick for parallelizing convolutional neural networks"<br />
<br />
http://www.ics.uci.edu/~jmoorkan/pub/gpusnn-ijcnn.pdf -- "Efficient Simulation of Large-Scale Spiking Neural Networks Using CUDA Graphics Processors"<br />
<br />
==Hopfield nets and RBMs==<br />
<br />
http://www.iro.umontreal.ca/~bengioy/papers/ftml_book.pdf -- Yoshua Bengio, 2009, Learning Deep Architectures for AI<br />
<br />
http://deeplearning.cs.cmu.edu/ -- Syllabus for cs course on deep learning, possible source of literature for the library <br />
<br />
https://class.coursera.org/neuralnets-2012-001/lecture -- Lecture 11 - 15 to aid in understanding of Hinton 2006 paper above<br />
<br />
http://www.pnas.org/content/79/8/2554.full.pdf -- "Neural networks and physical systems with emergent collective computational abilities" (Hopfield 1982)<br />
<br />
http://page.mi.fu-berlin.de/rojas/neural/chapter/K13.pdf -- "The Hopfield Model" (Rojas 1996)<br />
<br />
http://www.seas.upenn.edu/~wulsin/docs/wulsin2010.pdf -- "Semi-Supervised Anomaly Detection for EEG Waveforms Using Deep Belief Nets"<br />
<br />
http://www.cse.buffalo.edu/DBGROUP/bioinformatics/papers/cameraready_xwjiabibe.pdf -- "A Novel Semi-supervised Deep Learning Framework<br />
for Affective State Recognition on EEG Signals"<br />
<br />
http://www.cs.toronto.edu/~hinton/absps/guideTR.pdf -- "A Practical Guide to Training Restricted Boltzmann Machines"<br />
<br />
http://arxiv.org/pdf/1503.07793v2.pdf<br />
-- "Gibbs Sampling with Low-Power Spiking Digital Neurons"<br />
<br />
http://arxiv.org/pdf/1311.0190v1 -- "On the typical properties of inverse problems in statistical mechanics" Iacopo Mastromatteo 2013<br />
<br />
== Markov Chain Monte Carlo ==<br />
<br />
http://www.cs.princeton.edu/courses/archive/spr06/cos598C/papers/AndrieuFreitasDoucetJordan2003.pdf<br />
-- "An Introduction to MCMC for Machine Learning"<br />
<br />
http://jmlr.org/proceedings/papers/v37/salimans15.pdf<br />
-- "Markov Chain Monte Carlo and Variational Inference: Bridging the Gap"<br />
<br />
https://www.umiacs.umd.edu/~resnik/pubs/LAMP-TR-153.pdf -- "Gibbs Sampling for the Uninitiated"<br />
<br />
==Entrainment==<br />
<br />
http://www.scirp.org/Journal/PaperDownload.aspx?paperID=33251 -- "Alpha Rhythms Response to 10 Hz Flicker Is Wavelength Dependent"<br />
<br />
http://www.brainmachine.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/Herrmann_Flicker.pdf -- "EEG responses to 1–100 Hz flicker: resonance phenomena in visual cortex and their potential correlation to cognitive phenomena"<br />
<br />
http://www.jneurosci.org/content/23/37/11621.full.pdf -- "Human Cerebral Activation during Steady-State Visual-Evoked Responses"<br />
<br />
http://www.dauwels.com/Papers/CogDyn%202009.pdf -- "On the synchrony of steady state visual evoked potentials and oscillatory burst events"<br />
<br />
https://www.tu-ilmenau.de/fileadmin/public/lorentz-force/publications/peer/2012/haueisen2012/Halbleib_JCN_2012_Topographic_analysis_photic_driving.pdf -- "Topographic Analysis of Engagement and Disengagement of Neural Oscillators in Photic Driving: A Combined Electroencephalogram/Magnetoencephalogram Study"<br />
<br />
==Mining Scientific Literature==<br />
<br />
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC153503/pdf/1471-2105-4-11.pdf -- "PreBIND and Textomy – mining the biomedical literature for protein-protein interactions using a support vector machine" Donaldson 2003 BMC Bioinformatics<br />
<br />
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4674139/pdf/pcbi.1004630.pdf -- "Text Mining for Protein Docking" Badal 2015 PLoS Comput Biol.<br />
<br />
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4691339/pdf/bav116.pdf -- "Biocuration with insufficient resources and fixed timelines" Rodriguez-Esteban 2015 Database: The Journal of Biological Databases and Curation<br />
<br />
==(not necessarilly very) Current Discussion==<br />
<br />
re Tononi's "Integrated Information Theory" http://www.scottaaronson.com/blog/?p=1799<br />
<br />
(19 February 2014) starting to think about possibility for experiments (loosely) related to [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Visual_evoked_potential Visual Evoked Potential] research again - for instance:<br />
<br />
http://www.biosemi.com/publications/pdf/Bierman.pdf -- Wave function collapse<br />
<br />
[[File:Schak99InstantaneousCoherenceStroopTask.pdf]] -- "Instantaneous EEG Coherence Analysis During the Stroop Task" -- Schack et al 1999<br />
<br />
[[File:CoherentEEGAmbiguousFigureBinding.pdf]] -- "Coherent EEG Indicators of Cognitive Binding During Ambiguous Figure Tasks" -- Klemm, Li, and Hernandez 2000 <br />
<br />
Note these two papers flog coherence measures - not trying to focus so much on that analysis right now, more interested in general understanding of what these experiments are about with possible goal of designing simpler experiments & analysis of similar perceptual/cognitive phenomena.<br />
<br />
Here is an article that looks more directly at visual evoked potential measures:<br />
<br />
[[File:ERP_Stereoscopic.pdf]] -- "Evoked Responses to Distinct and Nebulous Stereoscopic Stimuli" -- Dunlop et al 1983<br />
<br />
<br />
(11 September 2013) more on analysis methods:<br />
<br />
http://slesinsky.org/brian/misc/eulers_identity.html<br />
<br />
http://www.dspguide.com/ch8/1.htm<br />
<br />
[[File:Fftw3.pdf]]<br />
<br />
[[File:ParametricEEGAnalysis.pdf]]<br />
<br />
[[File:ICATutorial.pdf]]<br />
<br />
[[File:ICAFrequencyDomainEEG.pdf]]<br />
<br />
<br />
(21 August 2013) - readings relating statistical (etc math / signal processing / pattern recognition / machine learning) methods for EEG data interpretation. A lot of stuff, a bit of nonsense ... and ... statistics!<br />
<br />
Would be good to identify any papers suitable for more in-depth study. Currently have a wide field to graze for selections:<br />
<br />
[[File:DWTandFFTforEEG.pdf]] "EEG Classifier using Fourier Transform and Wavelet Transform" -- Maan Shaker, 2007<br />
<br />
[[File:Schak99InstantaneousCoherenceStroopTask.pdf]] -- "Instantaneous EEG Coherence Analysis During the Stroop Task" -- Schack et al 1999<br />
<br />
[[File:KulaichevCoherence.pdf]] -- "The Informativeness of Coherence Analysis in EEG Studies" -- A. P. Kulaichev 2009 ''note: interesting critical perspective re limitations, discussion of alternative analytics''<br />
<br />
[[File:ContinuousAndDiscreteWaveletTransforms.pdf]] -- review of (pre-1990) wavelet literature -- Christopher Heil and David Walnut, 1989<br />
<br />
[[File:EEGGammaMeditation.pdf]] -- "Brain sources of EEG gamma frequency during volitionally meditation-induced, altered states of consciousness, and experience of the self" -- Dietrich Lehman et al 2001<br />
<br />
http://neuro.hut.fi/~pavan/home/Hyvarinen2010_FourierICA_Neuroimage.pdf - "Independent component analysis of short-time Fourier transforms for spontaneous EEG/MEG analysis" -- Aapo Hyvarinen, Pavan Ramkumar, Lauri Parkkonen, Riitta Hari - paper published in Neuroimage vol 49 (2010)<br />
<br />
----<br />
<br />
[http://www.nickgillian.com/software/grt OpenSource Machine Learning Algs from NG @MIT]<br />
<br>[https://www.usenix.org/system/files/conference/usenixsecurity12/sec12-final56.pdf Consumer grade EEG used to see "P300" reponse] and for thoes with a short attention span [http://www.extremetech.com/extreme/134682-hackers-backdoor-the-human-brain-successfully-extract-sensitive-data tldr]<br />
<br>(discussed at meetup Wednesday 31 July 2013)<br />
<br>"Coherent EEG Indicators of Cognitive Binding During Ambiguous Figure Tasks" Klemm, Li, and Hernandez 2000 <br />
<br>[[File:CoherentEEGAmbiguousFigureBinding.pdf]]<br />
<br>"We tested the hypothesis that perception of an alternative image in ambiguous figures would be manifest as high-frequency (gamma) components that become synchronized over multiple scalp sites as a "cognitive binding" process occurs."<br />
<br><br />
<br />
----<br />
<br />
[http://dreamsessions.net art, dream, and eeg]<br />
<br />
----<br />
<br />
[http://www.believermag.com/issues/200710/?read=article_aviv mind v brain, hobson v solms]<br />
<br>http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Activation-synthesis_hypothesis<br />
<br>[[File:HobsomREMDreamProtoconsciousness.pdf|Hobson09ProtosconsciousnessREMDream]]<br />
<br />
"Hobson and McCarley originally proposed in the 1970s that the differences in the waking-NREM-REM sleep cycle was the result of interactions between aminergic REM-off cells and cholinergic REM-on cells.[4] This was perceived as the activation-synthesis model, stating that brain activation during REM sleep results in synthesis of dream creation.[1][1] Hobson's five cardinal characteristics include: intense emotions, illogical content, apparent sensory impressions, uncritical acceptance of dream events, and difficulty in being remembered."<br />
<br />
----<br />
<br />
Berkeley Labs<br />
<br />
[http://gallantlab.org/index.html Gallant Group]<br />
<br>[http://walkerlab.berkeley.edu/ Walker Group]<br />
<br>[http://socrates.berkeley.edu/~plab/ Palmer Group]<br />
<br />
==Sleep Research==<br />
<br />
[http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2335403/ Comment on the AASM Manual for the Scoring of Sleep and Associated Events]<br />
<br />
==random tangents==<br />
(following previous discussion) - we might select a few to study in more depth<br />
(... or not! Plenty more to explore - suggestions (random or otherwise) are welcome.<br />
<br />
'''stereoscopic perception:'''<br />
*[[File:ERP_Stereoscopic.pdf]] <br />
<br />
<br />
some (maybe) interesting background on Information Theory (cool title...)<br />
Claude Shannon: "Communication in the Presence of Noise"<br />
[[File:Shannon_noise.pdf]]<br />
"We will call a system that transmits without errors at the rate ''C'' an ideal system.<br />
Such a system cannot be achieved with any finite encoding process<br />
but can be approximated as closely as desired."<br />
<br />
wikipedia etc quick reads:<br />
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eeg<br />
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Neural_synchronization<br />
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Event-related_potentials<br />
http://www.scholarpedia.org/article/Spike-and-wave_oscillations<br />
http://www.scholarpedia.org/article/Thalamocortical_oscillations<br />
<br />
==Previously==<br />
<br />
[http://www.psychiclab.net/ Masahiro's EEG Device/IBVA Software]<br />
<br />
[http://www.instructables.com/id/open-brain-wave-interface-hardware-1/ and ... open source hardware design and kits on instructables.com]<br />
<br />
[http://brainstorms.puzzlebox.info/ Puzzlebox - Opensource BCI Developers]<br />
<br />
Morgan from GazzLab @ MissionBay/UCSF<br />
<br />
<br />
https://github.com/gazzlab<br />
<br />
Let's ease into a lightweight "journal club" discussion with this technical report from NeuroSky.<br />
<br />
Name: A user-friendly SSVEP-based brain-computer interface using a time-domain classifier, Luo A and Sullivan TJ 2010<br />
<br />
URL: [[File:NeuroSkyVEP.pdf]]<br />
<br />
Please add your comments & questions here.<br />
<br />
==Background Reading==<br />
<br />
http://nanosouffle.net/ (view into Arxiv.org)<br />
<br />
Name: Hunting for Meaning after Midnight, Miller 2007<br />
<br />
URL: <http://www.noisebridge.net/pipermail/neuro/attachments/20130501/4b992eb6/attachment-0002.pdf><br />
<br />
Name: Broken mirrors, Ram, VS, & Oberman, LM, 2006, Nov<br />
<br />
URL: <http://www.noisebridge.net/pipermail/neuro/attachments/20130501/4b992eb6/attachment-0003.pdf><br />
<br />
Ramachandran Critique<br />
<br />
http://blogs.scientificamerican.com/guest-blog/2012/11/06/whats-so-special-about-mirror-neurons/<br />
<br />
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2773693/<br />
<br />
Sleep/Dream Studies<br />
<br />
http://www.cns.atr.jp/dni/en/publications/<br />
<br />
==NeuroSky Docs==<br />
[[File:NeuroSkyDongleProtocol.pdf]]<br />
<br />
[[File:NeuroSkyCommunicationsProtocol.pdf]]</div>Scottyhttps://www.noisebridge.net/index.php?title=Pick_n_place_machine&diff=53123Pick n place machine2016-08-04T03:48:30Z<p>Scotty: Revert vandalism</p>
<hr />
<div>We now have a [http://www.liteplacer.com/introduction-f-a-q/ Liteplacer] pick and place machine which we obtained through Makerfaire 2015.<br />
<br />
== What ==<br />
<br />
A pick and place machine puts the components on circuit boards at assembly phase. These machines are used for modern surface mounted devices (SMD). The LitePlacer is an affordable desktop machine aimed for prototype quantities boards, it's not necessarily faster than placing by hand but offers a degree of automation of a tedious step during hand prototyping.<br />
<br />
<br />
Information on the [http://www.liteplacer.com/introduction-f-a-q/ Liteplacer website]<br />
[http://www.liteplacer.com/development-directions/ development directions]<br />
[liteplacer.com/phpBB/ liteplacer forums]<br />
<br />
[[User:Hzeller|Hzeller]] started a repo for [https://github.com/hzeller/liteplacer-addons liteplacer addons]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Who ==<br />
<br />
[[User:Hzeller|Hzeller]] and [[User:Miloh|Miloh]] are the two best people to talk to about the machine.<br />
<br />
'''How to get jet the Machine to Move'''<br />
<br />
1) Open OpenPNP from the desktop<br />
<br />
2) You will now see X Y Z windows with numbers in them <br />
<br />
3) Click on Machine SetUp<br />
<br />
4) Then click reference machine <br />
<br />
5) You will now need to select the text that has the word TinyG <br />
<br />
6) You will now be prompted to restart the software<br />
<br />
7) Then once, again click on Machine SetUp<br />
<br />
8) Select the text with TinyGDriver<br />
<br />
9) Select port: (COM4) ''note this port could change ''<br />
<br />
10) Hit the icon that looks like a power button <br />
<br />
11) On the right hand side there should be a slide switch for the distance : change it to 10mm<br />
<br />
''this will later be updated with more information as the Starfish continue to make progress ''<br />
<br />
'''CURRENT STATUS '''<br />
<br />
Using OpenPNP we were able to get the machine jog machine.<br />
Next we are working on calibrating the up and down cameras</div>Scottyhttps://www.noisebridge.net/index.php?title=User:Scotty&diff=53122User:Scotty2016-08-04T03:47:51Z<p>Scotty: Revert vandalism</p>
<hr />
<div><br />
= Scotty Allen =<br />
<br />
[[File:scotty.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
Email: <firstname>@<firstname><lastname>.com<br />
<br />
== About ==<br />
<br />
I'm a nomadic tech entrepreneur. The center of my orbit is San Francisco, but I spend only about half of my time there. I spend the rest of the time out traveling the world. Noisebridge is my home hackerspace, but I try and visit other hackerspaces whenever I'm traveling. I write code and build software companies for work, but I like building physical things and dong adventurous things in my spare time.<br />
<br />
== Projects ==<br />
<br />
=== Sous vide machine ===<br />
<br />
I made a sous vide machine, for cooking meat and eggs in a precisely controlled temperature bath. It's based around an Arduino Uno, a thermocouple for temperature measurement, and an acquarium pump pushing water across three immersion coils. I like to say that my favorite part of cooking is soldering and writing code.<br />
<br />
[[File:scotty_sous_vide_machine.jpg|Welding at Techshop|x200px]] [[File:scotty_sous_vide_meat.jpg|Welding at Techshop|x200px]]<br />
<br />
=== Bookshelves ===<br />
<br />
[[Bookshelves]]<br />
<br />
I helped [[User:nthmost]], [[User:Fineline]], and others build some new bookcases for Noisebridge, based on the golden ratio/golden spiral.<br />
<br />
[[File:bookcase.jpg|x200px]]<br />
<br />
=== Welding and Machining ===<br />
<br />
I've always wanted to learn to weld and machine metal. I've been gradually learning both over the past few years, mostly at Techshop, but some at noisebridge too. Well, mostly trying to get Noisebridge's metalworking tools online, really.<br />
<br />
A few random photos of stuff I've done:<br />
<br />
[[File:Landyacht welding.jpg|Welding at Techshop|200px]] [[File:scotty_side_table.jpg|200px]] [[File:scotty_table.jpg|350px]] [[File:scotty_metal_turning.JPG|350px]]<br />
<br />
=== Wood turning ===<br />
<br />
I'm into making wooden bowls from green wood. I mostly use wood I get from free from tree trimmers that discard it, usually by advertising it as free firewood on Craigslist.<br />
<br />
Here are some samples of my work:<br />
<br />
[[File:scotty_wood_turning.JPG|x200px]]<br />
[[File:scotty_bowl_1.JPG|x200px]]<br />
[[File:scotty_bowl_2.jpg|x200px]]<br />
[[File:scotty_bowl_3.jpg|x200px]]<br />
<br />
=== Land sailing ===<br />
<br />
I saw a few pictures online of land yachts, and thought it woudl be a good weekend project. 4 months later, I was finished:)<br />
<br />
I took it to the Nevada desert in March for the America's Landsailing Cup. I placed 9th in my class, which sounds impressive until you learn I was only competing in a field of 15. It's a very small sport in the US.<br />
<br />
Here's what it looked like putting some finishing touches on a new sail at Noisebridge.<br />
<br />
[[File:450px-Landyacht_finished.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
I wrote a [http://blog.noisebridge.net/2015/02/03/land-yacht-no-not-that-kind-of-land-yacht/ blog post] about it.<br />
<br />
Here's some [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q_mPRX7lXRE video] I took during the America's Landsailing Cup, and some [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uzKgdt2PFDg unedited video] from just playing around and practicing.<br />
<br />
=== Hang gliding ===<br />
<br />
I've been learning to hang glide over the past year or so.<br />
<br />
[[File:scotty_hangglide.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
=== Laser cutter documentation ===<br />
<br />
[[Laser Cutter Manual Source Documents]]<br />
<br />
=== Hackerspace Mobile ===<br />
<br />
[[:File:Hackermobile.svg]]</div>Scottyhttps://www.noisebridge.net/index.php?title=Talk:Vinyl_cutter&diff=53079Talk:Vinyl cutter2016-08-04T02:28:23Z<p>Scotty: </p>
<hr />
<div><br />
I replaced the blade. --[[User:Scotty|Scotty]] ([[User talk:Scotty|talk]]) 02:28, 4 August 2016 (UTC)<br />
<br />
The Vinyl cutter was repaired it doesn't need a new blade!<br />
<br />
June 2013 reported to me that the Vinyl Cutter needs a new blade.<br />
** Blades look cheap, only $19.95 - http://www.uscutter.com/USCutter-MH-Series-Vinyl-Cutter-w-Sure-Cuts-A-Lot-Pro-Design-Cut-Software<br />
<br />
===--[[User:Rubin110|rubin110]] ([[User talk:Rubin110|talk]]) 08:23, 12 February 2015 (UTC)===<br />
* Bought a new arm to hold the blade doodad in. It's apparently the wrong arm but will work just fine<br />
* Bought a pen doodad<br />
* Cleaned up the cutter<br />
* Got a tool box which contains other much needed tools for the cutter, labeled and sitting on the shelf behind the cutter<br />
* Got an awesome cover for it made<br />
* New vinyl!<br />
<br />
== Deprecated shit from the Printers page ==<br />
<br />
Vinyl cutter driven by Windows 7. Does not make vinyl records :( <br />
For Linux use InkCut (Inkscape Plugin) see http://ubuntuforums.org/showthread.php?t=1512795</div>Scottyhttps://www.noisebridge.net/index.php?title=Laser_Manual&diff=53071Laser Manual2016-08-03T19:09:43Z<p>Scotty: /* Known good materials */</p>
<hr />
<div>== Contact list ==<br />
<br />
=== Trainers ===<br />
<br />
* Scotty Allen (@scotty on slack)<br />
* Darryl (@augur on slack)<br />
* Ruth Grace (@ruthgrace on slack)<br />
* Kyle (@kylesewing on slack)<br />
<br />
== Who can use the laser cutter ==<br />
<br />
Only people who have been trained by an official trainer can use the laser cutter, in order to prevent unintended damage to the machine, operator, and Noisebridge.<br />
<br />
People that have successfully completed the class:<br />
* Scotty Allen (@scotty) - Trainer<br />
* Darryl McAdams(@augur) - Trainer<br />
* Ruth Grace Wong (@ruthgrace) - Trainer<br />
* Kyle Ng (@kylesewing) - Trainer<br />
* Henner Zeller (@hzeller)<br />
* Adrian Kelly (@akelly)<br />
* Nick Pisaro (@nickp)<br />
<br />
== How to get trained to use the laser cutter ==<br />
<br />
# Ask a trainer if they will train you<br />
# Schedule a time with the trainer<br />
# Get trained<br />
# Get your name on the list of users before the first time you use the machine<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
* maintaining a verifiable list of users<br />
** users can be found at: URL<br />
<br />
* maintaining a verifiable list of safety? trainers<br />
** trainers can be found at: URL<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Basic Safety ==<br />
The laser cutter is generally a very safe machine to use. However, as with all industrial machines, you need to treat it with respect. The main safety concerns are creating fires, hurting your eyes or skin, getting crushed by the machine, and creating toxic fumes.<br />
<br />
The basics:<br />
* ALWAYS WATCH YOUR WORK!<br />
* OPEN THE LID if you see a fire<br />
* BLOW IT OUT if the fire keeps burning<br />
* DON'T CUT UNAPPROVED MATERIALS!<br />
<br />
=== Fire ===<br />
<br />
You can really hurt yourself or burn the building down with this machine. If you follow the safety rules, the chances of you causing this is close to zero. Some materials are very flammable on the laser cutter, and shouldn't be cut. Never cut an unapproved material, or a material that you don't know what it is. A laser beam can also initiate a fire if the speed of the cut is too slow or the laser power is set too high.<br />
<br />
<br />
Ways to not cause fires:<br />
* ALWAYS WATCH THE LASER CUTTER WHENEVER IT IS CUTTING AS FIRES CAN HAPPEN. The laser affects your material by heating it. Your job can change in seconds with the accumulation of heat in your material. Never leave the room while the laser is in operation. If you leave the laser unattended, your access to the laser cutter will be permanently revoked.<br />
* Use reasonable speed/power settings. Start with the recommended speed/power settings for your material. Be patient - resist the temptation to crank the power and speed to rush through your job. This can cause fires.<br />
** There will be some light when material is cut. This light at the point of lasing may be ok as long as it stays with the motion of the laser. If a flame appears while the laser is in operation, stop your job and try again with lower heat settings.<br />
* Know where the fire extinguisher is in case of a fire. The ONLY fire extinguisher that should be used on the laser cutter is the halotron extinguisher right next to the laser cutter. Other fire extinguishers are corrosive and will ruin the machine.<br />
<br />
How to put out a fire:<br />
* Push the estop. (To turn the machine back on after the estop was hit, you need to switch the power switch on the right hand side of the machine off and on again).<br />
* Open the lid.<br />
* If it's small, try and blow it out.<br />
* If it's smallish, try and squirt it out with the water squirt bottle sitting on the right hand side of the machine.<br />
* If that doesn't work, use the halotron fire extinguisher to the right of the laser cutter. Aim it at the base of the flame.<br />
<br />
=== Damage to eyes and skin ===<br />
The laser beam can instantly and permanently blind you. It can also burn your skin.<br />
* you don't ever want any part of your body in contact with the beam.<br />
* As long as the door is closed, you're safe to look at the laser. There are interlocks on the door that help ensure the laser never operates with the doors open. Don't disable them.<br />
<br />
=== Crushing danger ===<br />
<br />
The laser cutter is a dumb machine. It doesn't care whether your hand is in the way when it's moving. The head can move when the door is open. Always make sure everyone's hands are out of the machine before moving the head.<br />
<br />
Also be very careful not to crash the head into other parts of the machine. Be very careful when moving the z-axis to not crash the head into the bed, and to not move the z-axis if the focus length acrylic circle is under the lens.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Fumes ===<br />
The laser cutter burns the things it's cutting, which can create toxic fumes.<br />
* ONLY CUT APPROVED MATERIALS. Cutting nonapproved materials can release really toxic gases, including chlorine and cyanide. These are really bad for humans, as well as being very damaging to the laser cutter.<br />
* The ventilation fan should always be running if the laser cutter is on, even if it's not cutting. It's currently wired such that you can't turn on the laser cutter without the fan turning on, but please make sure it's running.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Care of the machine ==<br />
<br />
'''Please don't perform any maintenance on the machine (including cleaning lenses/mirrors or aligning mirrors) unless you've specifically trained on it.'''<br />
<br />
The laser cutter is finely calibrated piece of machinery. Please close the lid gently, and do not push or jar the machine at any time. Do not lean or press on the tray - it's fragile, and needs to be perfectly flat for the laser cutter to cut properly. If you take the honeycomb bed or slats out, please be ULTRA CAREFUL with them - put them somewhere where they won't get damaged or warped.<br />
<br />
== Paying for your laser time ==<br />
<br />
The laser cutter has parts that wear out over time, which can be quite costly to replace, especially the laser tube. A new tube costs several thousand dollars. Thus, we require people to pay for the time on the laser they use, so we can pay for new parts.<br />
<br />
To figure out how much time your job takes, press the File button, select your file, and then select Work Time from the menu. It will tell you in hours:minutes.seconds.<br />
<br />
Please pay for the cutting time you actually use, even if you end up running your job multiple times.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Workflows ==<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Overall Workflow ===<br />
<br />
This is the overall structure of the workflow. Each part is elaborated below.<br />
<br />
# Laser start up<br />
# Material setup<br />
# Convert file to DXF<br />
# Load file onto the machine<br />
# Dry run<br />
# Cut/Engrave<br />
# Laser shut down<br />
# Cleanup<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Laser start up ===<br />
<br />
# Turn on power and ensure that the fan and chiller are running<br />
# Move the head as far forward and right as possible, close to the controls<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Material setup ===<br />
<br />
# Clean the bed of any scraps that may be on it<br />
# Move the cut head as far forward and right as possible (near the controls)<br />
# Raise the laser head as far up as possible<br />
# Raise the bed to the desired height, watching the laser head to avoid crashes<br />
# Move the laser head as far back and right as possible<br />
# Place material on the bed<br />
# Focus the laser (do at least for each distinct thickness, optimally do for each piece of material)<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Focusing the laser ===<br />
<br />
Noisebridge has acryllic disks cut to various thicknesses that can be used to accurately focus the laser. Specifically the laser head needs to be locked to 8mm above the surface of the material you're cutting.<br />
<br />
# Place the material on the cut bed<br />
# Move the cut head to the center of the area to cut, watching the laser head to avoid crashes w/ material<br />
# Loosen the wing nut and raise the head all the way up<br />
# Place the focusing discs on the material under the head<br />
# Lower the head until it just touches the focusing disc (8mm above material)<br />
# Lock the head in place (tighten the wing nut)<br />
# Remove the focusing discs<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Convert an image in Inkscape to a DXF file ===<br />
<br />
# Load the image into Inkscape<br />
# Set the different cut paths to different colors (for controlling settings, etc.)<br />
# Save as a DXF. Be sure to make the units be millimeters so that importing later will correctly scale the image.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Debugging DXF Problems ===<br />
<br />
Sometimes exporting to DXF introduces bizarre extra lines. There are two things to try to debug. The first is to convert objects to paths:<br />
<br />
# Select all the problematic shapes<br />
# Path > Object to Path<br />
<br />
If this fails to resolve the issue, you can try a more radical solution which will eliminate all bezier paths entirely:<br />
<br />
# Select all the problematic shapes<br />
# Convert bezier paths to lines (Extensions > Modify Path > Flatten Bezier).<br />
<br />
Flatness 0.5 is good to start with. Smaller = better approximation of the curves. A lower flatness number takes more time to compute, but also produces a better approximation to the curve.<br />
<br />
Sometimes need to select the path's directly with the path tool (but not the points!).<br />
<br />
=== Loading into the laser cutter software ===<br />
<br />
# Import the file with File > Import<br />
# Resize as needed, tho if the file was exported w/ millimeter units, the software should also import the image with the correct size.<br />
# Set the cut order:<br />
##* EITHER Set the cut order to inside-out (Handle > Cut optimize > Inside to outside)<br />
##* OR Manually specify cut order with the Set cut property tool (Edit > Set cutting property). See below for more details.<br />
# Set the speed and power for the layers as necessary.<br />
# Optionally, simulate the cutting/engraving process.<br />
# Download to the machine (Laser Work panel on the bottom right).<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Manually specifying cut order ===<br />
<br />
In the Set cutting property window (Edit > Set cutting property), you can manually re-order the cut paths. In the window, you'll see an image of the workpiece, and to its right, two lists of paths. When you first open the window, all of the cut paths are in the left. If you select a path (either in the image or in the list) and click the button labeled ">>", this path will be transferred to the end of the right list of paths. If you click ">>>", all of the paths in the left list will be moved to the end of the right list (preserving order). Similarly, clicking "<<<" will move the right list to the end of the left list. If you select a cut path in the right list, the up and down arrow buttons will reorder that path in the chosen direction.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Loading speed and power settings from library ===<br />
<br />
# In the top right panel, double click the layer of interest<br />
# Click "Load parameters from library"<br />
# Select the library item<br />
# Click "Load"<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Saving power and speed settings to library ===<br />
<br />
# In the top right panel, double click the layer of interest<br />
# Make sure the layer is set to the desired parameters<br />
# Click "Load parameters from library"<br />
# Click "Save as"<br />
# Enter a name and optionally some notes<br />
# Click "Ok"<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Simulation ===<br />
<br />
# Open the simulation window with either Edit > Preview or the toolbar button labelled with a monitor.<br />
# Click the Simulation button in the right panel<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Cutting ===<br />
<br />
# Select the file to use using the File button<br />
# Move the head to the initial guess origin with the arrow buttons<br />
# Test the frame with the Frame button adjust origin as necessary<br />
# Set the origin by pressing Origin<br />
# Test the cut by turning the laser power off and pressing the Start/Pause button<br />
# Turn the laser power on<br />
# Cut by pressing the Start/Pause button<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Engraving ===<br />
<br />
TODO<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Cancel a cut/dry run ===<br />
<br />
# Pause with the Start/Pause button<br />
# Cancel and move back to the origin with the Esc button<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Laser shut down ===<br />
<br />
# Move the head as far forward and right as possible (near the controls)<br />
# Raise the laser head as far up as possible<br />
# Let the fan run for a little bit (~30 seconds)<br />
# Turn the power off<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Cleanup ===<br />
<br />
# Remove pieces of material scrap left on the bed<br />
# Open the tray door on the front bottom and empty the scraps left there<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Calculating work time ===<br />
<br />
On the computer:<br />
<br />
* Open the simulation window (see above). Total work time and time of laser use are displayed in the top right. Donations should be calculated by laser use, not total work time.<br />
<br />
On the machine:<br />
<br />
* Whole file: File > Select file > Right Arrow > Work Time > Enter<br />
* Current run: Pause the cut, then check time at the bottom right<br />
<br />
== Fusion 360 ==<br />
Fusion 360 is a free CAD (Computer Aided Design) program from Autodesk for designing 3D parts, and arguably the best one currently available. If you're designing something complex on the laser cutter, particularly with multiple parts that need to fit together, I highly recommend it over drawing programs like Inkscape. It also has CAM (Computer Aided Manufacturing) capabilities, which makes it very useful for CNC machining and laser cutting. There's a copy of the software on the laser cutter computer, and you can download it [http://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview here]. It's free as long as you make less than $100k per year using it.<br />
<br />
=== Workflow ===<br />
# Design a part to be laser cut by drawing a 2D sketch and extruding it<br />
# Go to the CAM workspace by clicking the Model button in the top left, then selecting CAM<br />
# Select the Waterjet operation<br />
## Set Type to Laser Cutting<br />
## Select the Cutting Mode. I've only tried Through - Auto, but I don't think the different quality settings do anything.<br />
## Look up the kerf of the material you're cutting in the [[#Known good materials]] section, and enter that in Kerf Width, or if your material's not listed, cut one a [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1166680 kerf gauge] and put the result in the wiki. The kerf changes depending on the thickness, speed and power. Setting a larger kerf width will make your parts fit tighter, and a smaller kerf will make them looser.<br />
## Select the contours of your part that you want to cut<br />
## Go to the Passes tab, and change Compensation Type to In Computer<br />
## Hit OK to close the dialog box, and you can see a preview of your tool path. You can go back to edit it by double clicking the contour operation in the tree on the left<br />
# To export to DXF, click the Post Process button, which says G1 G2. Make sure rdworkslaser is selected as your post processor, type a name for the export and hit Post. Then select the folder to put it in.<br />
# Import the DXF in RDWorks, and continue with the standard workflow starting at [[#Loading into the laser cutter software]]<br />
# Fusion automatically orders the cuts from inside out and in the fastest order, so there's no need to do it again in RDWorks.<br />
<br />
=== Advanced Options ===<br />
# If you're using your own computer for the first time and not the laser cutter desktop, you have to enable the laser cutter support which is still in beta, by clicking on your name in the top right, then Preferences, Preview, and checking "CAM - Waterjet/Laser/Plasma cutter support". You will also need to download the custom post processor that we use for this laser.<br />
# If you want to specify the order manually in Fusion, you can check Preserve Order under the Passes tab, and then it cuts them in the same order that you selected them.<br />
# There's a simulate button to the left of the Post Process button, if you want to do it in Fusion<br />
# If you want to disable or tweak the lead ins and lead outs, you can go to the Linking tab. Lead ins and lead outs can fix the bump you get on the side of your part where the laser started and stopped, but they also make extra cuts in your scrap material, which you may want to keep. In this tab you can also specify the Entry Position for each cut path.<br />
# You can disable Kerf Compensation by settting Sideways Compensation to Center under the Passes tab, though this is not reccomended<br />
<br />
<br />
== Maintenance==<br />
<br />
'''Please don't perform any maintenance on the machine (including cleaning lenses/mirrors or aligning mirrors) unless you've specifically trained on it.'''<br />
<br />
* TEMP note: some check(s) may be included outside of maintenance so a user can trigger a maintenance notification<br />
* DON'T - let someone who has been trained do it<br />
* how to tell if the lens is dirty (or getting old?)<br />
* how to tell if the mirrors are dirty<br />
** Cleaning the mirrors<br />
*** ethanol solution? isopropanol? - see manual.<br />
*** fabric must be non scratch - see manual.<br />
* Checking and performing mirror alignment<br />
** Safety - remove gratings and any other reflective surfaces before any maintenance that requires disabling the door sensors.<br />
** TEMP note: in restrospect the alignment was a very dangerous situation. mirror paths were not checked before powering on the laser with the door open with many people around. (or maybe nigel is just insanely good at configuring mirrors... still... reddit.com/r/OSHA)<br />
** Tape test - mirrors 1,2,3 and their corresponding exits. Slightly propped laser tube.<br />
** vertical/horizontal alignment by brass dial.<br />
* Checking chiller tank water volume<br />
** Chiller alarm - what does it mean<br />
** Checking tank water volume<br />
** Refilling tank water<br />
* Cleaning the bed and waste drawer (this section probably should be moved to usage)<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Signs:<br />
* <strike>Don't open front/back passthrough doors (for now)</strike><br />
* <strike>Fire extinguishers - which to use for what fire</strike><br />
* Approved materials<br />
* <strike>careful when raising bed, dont crash into laser head</strike><br />
* move laser head out of the way before opening the lid<br />
* power off the laser before opening the lid ???<br />
* <strike>watch the laser while it is cutting</strike><br />
<br />
<br />
Todos:<br />
* <strike>Move the machine further away from the right wall so we can get to the power switch.</strike><br />
* <strike>label the water squirt bottle as for fires and not to remove</strike><br />
* acquire piece of copper for chlorine materials test<br />
* acquire vinyl record for testing<br />
* acquire propane bottle and nozzle<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
material notes<br />
* material selection - approved materials list<br />
** nothing that generates hazerdous fumes, particularly chlorine/formeldahyde<br />
** no aluminum or other metals (?? ryan claims these can be safely engraved in this machine)<br />
** nothing reflective<br />
** size constraints<br />
* laser configuration - power, speed<br />
** table of recommmended settings for various materials<br />
<br />
How to get a new/novel material approved<br />
* consensus process<br />
* chlorine test<br />
<br />
== Chlorine material test ==<br />
<br />
Before you cut any new material you *must* check that it is safe to cut; specifically that it will not produce chlorine gas when it is burned by the cutting laser. Chlorine is extremely dangerous in its gaseous form and so must be avoided at all costs. <br />
<br />
To test a new material, you'll need a sample of the material, a small copper rod (about the thickness of a coat hanger), a pliars, and a handheld propane torch. We'll test for the presence of chlorine by burning a sample of the material in a high temperature propane flame and observe the visible emission spectra. Chrlorine produces a bright green light when burned, and so will be very obvious when you're testing your material.<br />
<br />
First, light the propane torch and set it to rest upright on a stable surface. Taking the pliar, hold the piece of copper in the blue part of the flame to heat it. As the copper begins to heat sufficiently it'll cause the flame to turn an orange color. A consistent orange color means that the copper has no residue material on its surface and so is clean enough to use as a test. If you observe non-orange flames when you burn the copper you may need to clean in further, either by waiting for the excess material to burn off, or by scrubbing the surface of the copper when it has cooled.<br />
<br />
Once the copper is burning, take the hot copper and melt a sample of the new material onto it. For example if you were testing a new form of plastic you can roll the hot copper rod on the material, melting some of it onto the copper rod's surface.<br />
<br />
With this done, place the copper rod back into the blue part of the flame. Observe the colors of the emission spectra from the new material burning. If you observe a bright green color, then the material contains chlorine and thus *must not* be burned further. Ventilate your surrounding area to avoid breathing it in. If you observe no green color as you burn your material sample, then the material is likely safe to use with the laser cutter.<br />
<br />
Here is a video example by Zach in NYCResistor with a known good and known bad material: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D0_4NLmeSTI<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== BANNED MATERIALS (NEVER USE THESE) ==<br />
<br />
These materials '''must not be used in the laser cutter'''. <br />
<br />
{|border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"<br />
|-<br />
! colspan="10" bgcolor="#ccc" | Bad materials<br />
|-<br />
! Material<br />
! Notes<br />
|-<br />
| PVC || Contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br />
|-<br />
| Vinyl || Most contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br />
|- <br />
| PVC Foams || Most contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br />
|- <br />
| Foam Core || Usually made with PVC which is harmful as listed above. <br />
|- <br />
| Styrofoam || Can cause flash fires<br />
|-<br />
| Polycarbonate or PETG || Does not cut. TAP plastics sells both this and acrylic. '''Be sure to read your labels when purchasing material'''. Lexan is the trade name for Polycarbonate, while Plexiglass is the trade name for acrylic.<br />
|- <br />
| ABS || Gives of hydrogen cyanide<br />
|- <br />
| Fiberglass ||<br />
|- <br />
| Metals || Cannot be etched by this type of laser. Also is harmful as the reflective surface may cause the laser to be reflected back up to the head, damaging it. If someone claims to be etching metal using this type of laser then they are etching a metal with a plastic coating, anodized surface, or some other etchable surface on top.<br />
<br />
|}<br />
<br />
== Known good materials ==<br />
<br />
These materials are known to be ok for use with the laser cutter. The speed and power of the laser cutter will need to be set appropriately for the material and thickness in use. Below is a table showing the suggested settings when cutting or etching them.<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" <br />
|-<br />
! colspan="10" bgcolor="#cccccc" | Cardboards/Papers<br />
|-<br />
! rowspan="2" | Material<br />
! colspan="3" | Engraving <br />
! colspan="3" | Cutting<br />
! colspan="2" | Scoring<br />
! rowspan="1" | Notes<br />
|-<br />
! Speed (mm/s) !! Power !! DPI !! Speed !! Power !! Kerf Width !! Speed !! Power ||<br />
|-<br />
|-<br />
<br />
|-<br />
| Acrylic (clear, 3mm) || || || || 20 mm/s || 55% || || || ||<br />
<br />
|-<br />
| Acrylic (clear, 12.5mm) || || || || 3 mm/s || 55% || || || ||<br />
<br />
|-<br />
| Acrylic (clear, 18mm) || || || || 6 mm/s || 55% || || || || Cuts require three passes, don't move piece between passes<br />
<br />
|-<br />
| Cardboard (4mm) || || || || 50 mm/s || 15% || || 50 mm/s || 5% || Minimum line separation at 50/15 = 1/2mm (see reference cuts for more details)<br />
<br />
|}<br />
<br />
== Sourcing Material ==<br />
<br />
In general, you can get stuff form Amazon, but you have to wait for shipping.<br />
<br />
For plastics: [http://www.google.com/maps/place/TAP+Plastics/@37.7711648,-122.4207603,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f7e27351bb079:0x7e3610d7dc178b10!8m2!3d37.7711648!4d-122.4185663 Tap Plastics] is nearby Noisebridge, but is expensive, [http://eplastics.com eplastics] is cheaper but you need to wait for shipping, and [https://www.google.com/maps/place/Mr.+Plastics/@37.7091519,-122.1546962,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f8fe7938349a3:0xafcb2526326faccd!8m2!3d37.7091519!4d-122.1525022 Mr. Plastics] is cheapest but is in San Leandro.<br />
<br />
For woods: [http://www.google.com/maps/place/Discount+Builders+Supply/@37.7704879,-122.4191311,15z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0x3c0d6c6e25a89652?sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjV87WU-JzOAhUI6WMKHSPABOUQ_BIIeTAK Discount Builder Supply] is nearby.</div>Scottyhttps://www.noisebridge.net/index.php?title=Laser_Manual&diff=53070Laser Manual2016-08-03T19:08:32Z<p>Scotty: /* Who can use the laser cutter */</p>
<hr />
<div>== Contact list ==<br />
<br />
=== Trainers ===<br />
<br />
* Scotty Allen (@scotty on slack)<br />
* Darryl (@augur on slack)<br />
* Ruth Grace (@ruthgrace on slack)<br />
* Kyle (@kylesewing on slack)<br />
<br />
== Who can use the laser cutter ==<br />
<br />
Only people who have been trained by an official trainer can use the laser cutter, in order to prevent unintended damage to the machine, operator, and Noisebridge.<br />
<br />
People that have successfully completed the class:<br />
* Scotty Allen (@scotty) - Trainer<br />
* Darryl McAdams(@augur) - Trainer<br />
* Ruth Grace Wong (@ruthgrace) - Trainer<br />
* Kyle Ng (@kylesewing) - Trainer<br />
* Henner Zeller (@hzeller)<br />
* Adrian Kelly (@akelly)<br />
* Nick Pisaro (@nickp)<br />
<br />
== How to get trained to use the laser cutter ==<br />
<br />
# Ask a trainer if they will train you<br />
# Schedule a time with the trainer<br />
# Get trained<br />
# Get your name on the list of users before the first time you use the machine<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
* maintaining a verifiable list of users<br />
** users can be found at: URL<br />
<br />
* maintaining a verifiable list of safety? trainers<br />
** trainers can be found at: URL<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Basic Safety ==<br />
The laser cutter is generally a very safe machine to use. However, as with all industrial machines, you need to treat it with respect. The main safety concerns are creating fires, hurting your eyes or skin, getting crushed by the machine, and creating toxic fumes.<br />
<br />
The basics:<br />
* ALWAYS WATCH YOUR WORK!<br />
* OPEN THE LID if you see a fire<br />
* BLOW IT OUT if the fire keeps burning<br />
* DON'T CUT UNAPPROVED MATERIALS!<br />
<br />
=== Fire ===<br />
<br />
You can really hurt yourself or burn the building down with this machine. If you follow the safety rules, the chances of you causing this is close to zero. Some materials are very flammable on the laser cutter, and shouldn't be cut. Never cut an unapproved material, or a material that you don't know what it is. A laser beam can also initiate a fire if the speed of the cut is too slow or the laser power is set too high.<br />
<br />
<br />
Ways to not cause fires:<br />
* ALWAYS WATCH THE LASER CUTTER WHENEVER IT IS CUTTING AS FIRES CAN HAPPEN. The laser affects your material by heating it. Your job can change in seconds with the accumulation of heat in your material. Never leave the room while the laser is in operation. If you leave the laser unattended, your access to the laser cutter will be permanently revoked.<br />
* Use reasonable speed/power settings. Start with the recommended speed/power settings for your material. Be patient - resist the temptation to crank the power and speed to rush through your job. This can cause fires.<br />
** There will be some light when material is cut. This light at the point of lasing may be ok as long as it stays with the motion of the laser. If a flame appears while the laser is in operation, stop your job and try again with lower heat settings.<br />
* Know where the fire extinguisher is in case of a fire. The ONLY fire extinguisher that should be used on the laser cutter is the halotron extinguisher right next to the laser cutter. Other fire extinguishers are corrosive and will ruin the machine.<br />
<br />
How to put out a fire:<br />
* Push the estop. (To turn the machine back on after the estop was hit, you need to switch the power switch on the right hand side of the machine off and on again).<br />
* Open the lid.<br />
* If it's small, try and blow it out.<br />
* If it's smallish, try and squirt it out with the water squirt bottle sitting on the right hand side of the machine.<br />
* If that doesn't work, use the halotron fire extinguisher to the right of the laser cutter. Aim it at the base of the flame.<br />
<br />
=== Damage to eyes and skin ===<br />
The laser beam can instantly and permanently blind you. It can also burn your skin.<br />
* you don't ever want any part of your body in contact with the beam.<br />
* As long as the door is closed, you're safe to look at the laser. There are interlocks on the door that help ensure the laser never operates with the doors open. Don't disable them.<br />
<br />
=== Crushing danger ===<br />
<br />
The laser cutter is a dumb machine. It doesn't care whether your hand is in the way when it's moving. The head can move when the door is open. Always make sure everyone's hands are out of the machine before moving the head.<br />
<br />
Also be very careful not to crash the head into other parts of the machine. Be very careful when moving the z-axis to not crash the head into the bed, and to not move the z-axis if the focus length acrylic circle is under the lens.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Fumes ===<br />
The laser cutter burns the things it's cutting, which can create toxic fumes.<br />
* ONLY CUT APPROVED MATERIALS. Cutting nonapproved materials can release really toxic gases, including chlorine and cyanide. These are really bad for humans, as well as being very damaging to the laser cutter.<br />
* The ventilation fan should always be running if the laser cutter is on, even if it's not cutting. It's currently wired such that you can't turn on the laser cutter without the fan turning on, but please make sure it's running.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Care of the machine ==<br />
<br />
'''Please don't perform any maintenance on the machine (including cleaning lenses/mirrors or aligning mirrors) unless you've specifically trained on it.'''<br />
<br />
The laser cutter is finely calibrated piece of machinery. Please close the lid gently, and do not push or jar the machine at any time. Do not lean or press on the tray - it's fragile, and needs to be perfectly flat for the laser cutter to cut properly. If you take the honeycomb bed or slats out, please be ULTRA CAREFUL with them - put them somewhere where they won't get damaged or warped.<br />
<br />
== Paying for your laser time ==<br />
<br />
The laser cutter has parts that wear out over time, which can be quite costly to replace, especially the laser tube. A new tube costs several thousand dollars. Thus, we require people to pay for the time on the laser they use, so we can pay for new parts.<br />
<br />
To figure out how much time your job takes, press the File button, select your file, and then select Work Time from the menu. It will tell you in hours:minutes.seconds.<br />
<br />
Please pay for the cutting time you actually use, even if you end up running your job multiple times.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Workflows ==<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Overall Workflow ===<br />
<br />
This is the overall structure of the workflow. Each part is elaborated below.<br />
<br />
# Laser start up<br />
# Material setup<br />
# Convert file to DXF<br />
# Load file onto the machine<br />
# Dry run<br />
# Cut/Engrave<br />
# Laser shut down<br />
# Cleanup<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Laser start up ===<br />
<br />
# Turn on power and ensure that the fan and chiller are running<br />
# Move the head as far forward and right as possible, close to the controls<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Material setup ===<br />
<br />
# Clean the bed of any scraps that may be on it<br />
# Move the cut head as far forward and right as possible (near the controls)<br />
# Raise the laser head as far up as possible<br />
# Raise the bed to the desired height, watching the laser head to avoid crashes<br />
# Move the laser head as far back and right as possible<br />
# Place material on the bed<br />
# Focus the laser (do at least for each distinct thickness, optimally do for each piece of material)<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Focusing the laser ===<br />
<br />
Noisebridge has acryllic disks cut to various thicknesses that can be used to accurately focus the laser. Specifically the laser head needs to be locked to 8mm above the surface of the material you're cutting.<br />
<br />
# Place the material on the cut bed<br />
# Move the cut head to the center of the area to cut, watching the laser head to avoid crashes w/ material<br />
# Loosen the wing nut and raise the head all the way up<br />
# Place the focusing discs on the material under the head<br />
# Lower the head until it just touches the focusing disc (8mm above material)<br />
# Lock the head in place (tighten the wing nut)<br />
# Remove the focusing discs<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Convert an image in Inkscape to a DXF file ===<br />
<br />
# Load the image into Inkscape<br />
# Set the different cut paths to different colors (for controlling settings, etc.)<br />
# Save as a DXF. Be sure to make the units be millimeters so that importing later will correctly scale the image.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Debugging DXF Problems ===<br />
<br />
Sometimes exporting to DXF introduces bizarre extra lines. There are two things to try to debug. The first is to convert objects to paths:<br />
<br />
# Select all the problematic shapes<br />
# Path > Object to Path<br />
<br />
If this fails to resolve the issue, you can try a more radical solution which will eliminate all bezier paths entirely:<br />
<br />
# Select all the problematic shapes<br />
# Convert bezier paths to lines (Extensions > Modify Path > Flatten Bezier).<br />
<br />
Flatness 0.5 is good to start with. Smaller = better approximation of the curves. A lower flatness number takes more time to compute, but also produces a better approximation to the curve.<br />
<br />
Sometimes need to select the path's directly with the path tool (but not the points!).<br />
<br />
=== Loading into the laser cutter software ===<br />
<br />
# Import the file with File > Import<br />
# Resize as needed, tho if the file was exported w/ millimeter units, the software should also import the image with the correct size.<br />
# Set the cut order:<br />
##* EITHER Set the cut order to inside-out (Handle > Cut optimize > Inside to outside)<br />
##* OR Manually specify cut order with the Set cut property tool (Edit > Set cutting property). See below for more details.<br />
# Set the speed and power for the layers as necessary.<br />
# Optionally, simulate the cutting/engraving process.<br />
# Download to the machine (Laser Work panel on the bottom right).<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Manually specifying cut order ===<br />
<br />
In the Set cutting property window (Edit > Set cutting property), you can manually re-order the cut paths. In the window, you'll see an image of the workpiece, and to its right, two lists of paths. When you first open the window, all of the cut paths are in the left. If you select a path (either in the image or in the list) and click the button labeled ">>", this path will be transferred to the end of the right list of paths. If you click ">>>", all of the paths in the left list will be moved to the end of the right list (preserving order). Similarly, clicking "<<<" will move the right list to the end of the left list. If you select a cut path in the right list, the up and down arrow buttons will reorder that path in the chosen direction.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Loading speed and power settings from library ===<br />
<br />
# In the top right panel, double click the layer of interest<br />
# Click "Load parameters from library"<br />
# Select the library item<br />
# Click "Load"<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Saving power and speed settings to library ===<br />
<br />
# In the top right panel, double click the layer of interest<br />
# Make sure the layer is set to the desired parameters<br />
# Click "Load parameters from library"<br />
# Click "Save as"<br />
# Enter a name and optionally some notes<br />
# Click "Ok"<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Simulation ===<br />
<br />
# Open the simulation window with either Edit > Preview or the toolbar button labelled with a monitor.<br />
# Click the Simulation button in the right panel<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Cutting ===<br />
<br />
# Select the file to use using the File button<br />
# Move the head to the initial guess origin with the arrow buttons<br />
# Test the frame with the Frame button adjust origin as necessary<br />
# Set the origin by pressing Origin<br />
# Test the cut by turning the laser power off and pressing the Start/Pause button<br />
# Turn the laser power on<br />
# Cut by pressing the Start/Pause button<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Engraving ===<br />
<br />
TODO<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Cancel a cut/dry run ===<br />
<br />
# Pause with the Start/Pause button<br />
# Cancel and move back to the origin with the Esc button<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Laser shut down ===<br />
<br />
# Move the head as far forward and right as possible (near the controls)<br />
# Raise the laser head as far up as possible<br />
# Let the fan run for a little bit (~30 seconds)<br />
# Turn the power off<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Cleanup ===<br />
<br />
# Remove pieces of material scrap left on the bed<br />
# Open the tray door on the front bottom and empty the scraps left there<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Calculating work time ===<br />
<br />
On the computer:<br />
<br />
* Open the simulation window (see above). Total work time and time of laser use are displayed in the top right. Donations should be calculated by laser use, not total work time.<br />
<br />
On the machine:<br />
<br />
* Whole file: File > Select file > Right Arrow > Work Time > Enter<br />
* Current run: Pause the cut, then check time at the bottom right<br />
<br />
== Fusion 360 ==<br />
Fusion 360 is a free CAD (Computer Aided Design) program from Autodesk for designing 3D parts, and arguably the best one currently available. If you're designing something complex on the laser cutter, particularly with multiple parts that need to fit together, I highly recommend it over drawing programs like Inkscape. It also has CAM (Computer Aided Manufacturing) capabilities, which makes it very useful for CNC machining and laser cutting. There's a copy of the software on the laser cutter computer, and you can download it [http://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview here]. It's free as long as you make less than $100k per year using it.<br />
<br />
=== Workflow ===<br />
# Design a part to be laser cut by drawing a 2D sketch and extruding it<br />
# Go to the CAM workspace by clicking the Model button in the top left, then selecting CAM<br />
# Select the Waterjet operation<br />
## Set Type to Laser Cutting<br />
## Select the Cutting Mode. I've only tried Through - Auto, but I don't think the different quality settings do anything.<br />
## Look up the kerf of the material you're cutting in the [[#Known good materials]] section, and enter that in Kerf Width, or if your material's not listed, cut one a [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1166680 kerf gauge] and put the result in the wiki. The kerf changes depending on the thickness, speed and power. Setting a larger kerf width will make your parts fit tighter, and a smaller kerf will make them looser.<br />
## Select the contours of your part that you want to cut<br />
## Go to the Passes tab, and change Compensation Type to In Computer<br />
## Hit OK to close the dialog box, and you can see a preview of your tool path. You can go back to edit it by double clicking the contour operation in the tree on the left<br />
# To export to DXF, click the Post Process button, which says G1 G2. Make sure rdworkslaser is selected as your post processor, type a name for the export and hit Post. Then select the folder to put it in.<br />
# Import the DXF in RDWorks, and continue with the standard workflow starting at [[#Loading into the laser cutter software]]<br />
# Fusion automatically orders the cuts from inside out and in the fastest order, so there's no need to do it again in RDWorks.<br />
<br />
=== Advanced Options ===<br />
# If you're using your own computer for the first time and not the laser cutter desktop, you have to enable the laser cutter support which is still in beta, by clicking on your name in the top right, then Preferences, Preview, and checking "CAM - Waterjet/Laser/Plasma cutter support". You will also need to download the custom post processor that we use for this laser.<br />
# If you want to specify the order manually in Fusion, you can check Preserve Order under the Passes tab, and then it cuts them in the same order that you selected them.<br />
# There's a simulate button to the left of the Post Process button, if you want to do it in Fusion<br />
# If you want to disable or tweak the lead ins and lead outs, you can go to the Linking tab. Lead ins and lead outs can fix the bump you get on the side of your part where the laser started and stopped, but they also make extra cuts in your scrap material, which you may want to keep. In this tab you can also specify the Entry Position for each cut path.<br />
# You can disable Kerf Compensation by settting Sideways Compensation to Center under the Passes tab, though this is not reccomended<br />
<br />
<br />
== Maintenance==<br />
<br />
'''Please don't perform any maintenance on the machine (including cleaning lenses/mirrors or aligning mirrors) unless you've specifically trained on it.'''<br />
<br />
* TEMP note: some check(s) may be included outside of maintenance so a user can trigger a maintenance notification<br />
* DON'T - let someone who has been trained do it<br />
* how to tell if the lens is dirty (or getting old?)<br />
* how to tell if the mirrors are dirty<br />
** Cleaning the mirrors<br />
*** ethanol solution? isopropanol? - see manual.<br />
*** fabric must be non scratch - see manual.<br />
* Checking and performing mirror alignment<br />
** Safety - remove gratings and any other reflective surfaces before any maintenance that requires disabling the door sensors.<br />
** TEMP note: in restrospect the alignment was a very dangerous situation. mirror paths were not checked before powering on the laser with the door open with many people around. (or maybe nigel is just insanely good at configuring mirrors... still... reddit.com/r/OSHA)<br />
** Tape test - mirrors 1,2,3 and their corresponding exits. Slightly propped laser tube.<br />
** vertical/horizontal alignment by brass dial.<br />
* Checking chiller tank water volume<br />
** Chiller alarm - what does it mean<br />
** Checking tank water volume<br />
** Refilling tank water<br />
* Cleaning the bed and waste drawer (this section probably should be moved to usage)<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Signs:<br />
* <strike>Don't open front/back passthrough doors (for now)</strike><br />
* <strike>Fire extinguishers - which to use for what fire</strike><br />
* Approved materials<br />
* <strike>careful when raising bed, dont crash into laser head</strike><br />
* move laser head out of the way before opening the lid<br />
* power off the laser before opening the lid ???<br />
* <strike>watch the laser while it is cutting</strike><br />
<br />
<br />
Todos:<br />
* <strike>Move the machine further away from the right wall so we can get to the power switch.</strike><br />
* <strike>label the water squirt bottle as for fires and not to remove</strike><br />
* acquire piece of copper for chlorine materials test<br />
* acquire vinyl record for testing<br />
* acquire propane bottle and nozzle<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
material notes<br />
* material selection - approved materials list<br />
** nothing that generates hazerdous fumes, particularly chlorine/formeldahyde<br />
** no aluminum or other metals (?? ryan claims these can be safely engraved in this machine)<br />
** nothing reflective<br />
** size constraints<br />
* laser configuration - power, speed<br />
** table of recommmended settings for various materials<br />
<br />
How to get a new/novel material approved<br />
* consensus process<br />
* chlorine test<br />
<br />
== Chlorine material test ==<br />
<br />
Before you cut any new material you *must* check that it is safe to cut; specifically that it will not produce chlorine gas when it is burned by the cutting laser. Chlorine is extremely dangerous in its gaseous form and so must be avoided at all costs. <br />
<br />
To test a new material, you'll need a sample of the material, a small copper rod (about the thickness of a coat hanger), a pliars, and a handheld propane torch. We'll test for the presence of chlorine by burning a sample of the material in a high temperature propane flame and observe the visible emission spectra. Chrlorine produces a bright green light when burned, and so will be very obvious when you're testing your material.<br />
<br />
First, light the propane torch and set it to rest upright on a stable surface. Taking the pliar, hold the piece of copper in the blue part of the flame to heat it. As the copper begins to heat sufficiently it'll cause the flame to turn an orange color. A consistent orange color means that the copper has no residue material on its surface and so is clean enough to use as a test. If you observe non-orange flames when you burn the copper you may need to clean in further, either by waiting for the excess material to burn off, or by scrubbing the surface of the copper when it has cooled.<br />
<br />
Once the copper is burning, take the hot copper and melt a sample of the new material onto it. For example if you were testing a new form of plastic you can roll the hot copper rod on the material, melting some of it onto the copper rod's surface.<br />
<br />
With this done, place the copper rod back into the blue part of the flame. Observe the colors of the emission spectra from the new material burning. If you observe a bright green color, then the material contains chlorine and thus *must not* be burned further. Ventilate your surrounding area to avoid breathing it in. If you observe no green color as you burn your material sample, then the material is likely safe to use with the laser cutter.<br />
<br />
Here is a video example by Zach in NYCResistor with a known good and known bad material: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D0_4NLmeSTI<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== BANNED MATERIALS (NEVER USE THESE) ==<br />
<br />
These materials '''must not be used in the laser cutter'''. <br />
<br />
{|border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"<br />
|-<br />
! colspan="10" bgcolor="#ccc" | Bad materials<br />
|-<br />
! Material<br />
! Notes<br />
|-<br />
| PVC || Contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br />
|-<br />
| Vinyl || Most contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br />
|- <br />
| PVC Foams || Most contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br />
|- <br />
| Foam Core || Usually made with PVC which is harmful as listed above. <br />
|- <br />
| Styrofoam || Can cause flash fires<br />
|-<br />
| Polycarbonate or PETG || Does not cut. TAP plastics sells both this and acrylic. '''Be sure to read your labels when purchasing material'''. Lexan is the trade name for Polycarbonate, while Plexiglass is the trade name for acrylic.<br />
|- <br />
| ABS || Gives of hydrogen cyanide<br />
|- <br />
| Fiberglass ||<br />
|- <br />
| Metals || Cannot be etched by this type of laser. Also is harmful as the reflective surface may cause the laser to be reflected back up to the head, damaging it. If someone claims to be etching metal using this type of laser then they are etching a metal with a plastic coating, anodized surface, or some other etchable surface on top.<br />
<br />
|}<br />
<br />
== Known good materials ==<br />
<br />
These materials are known to be ok for use with the laser cutter. The speed and power of the laser cutter will need to be set appropriately for the material and thickness in use. Below is a table showing the suggested settings when cutting or etching them.<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" <br />
|-<br />
! colspan="10" bgcolor="#cccccc" | Cardboards/Papers<br />
|-<br />
! rowspan="2" | Material<br />
! colspan="3" | Engraving <br />
! colspan="3" | Cutting<br />
! colspan="2" | Scoring<br />
! rowspan="1" | Notes<br />
|-<br />
! Speed (mm/s) !! Power !! DPI !! Speed !! Power !! Kerf Width !! Speed !! Power ||<br />
|-<br />
|-<br />
<br />
|-<br />
| Acrylic (clear, 3mm) || || || || 20 mm/s || 55% || || || ||<br />
<br />
|-<br />
| Acrylic (clear, 12.5mm) || || || || 3 mm/s || 55% || || || ||<br />
<br />
|-<br />
| Acrylic (clear, 18mm) || || || || 6 mm/s || 10%? || || || || Cuts require three passes, don't move piece between passes<br />
<br />
|-<br />
| Cardboard (4mm) || || || || 50 mm/s || 15% || || 50 mm/s || 5% || Minimum line separation at 50/15 = 1/2mm (see reference cuts for more details)<br />
<br />
|}<br />
<br />
== Sourcing Material ==<br />
<br />
In general, you can get stuff form Amazon, but you have to wait for shipping.<br />
<br />
For plastics: [http://www.google.com/maps/place/TAP+Plastics/@37.7711648,-122.4207603,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f7e27351bb079:0x7e3610d7dc178b10!8m2!3d37.7711648!4d-122.4185663 Tap Plastics] is nearby Noisebridge, but is expensive, [http://eplastics.com eplastics] is cheaper but you need to wait for shipping, and [https://www.google.com/maps/place/Mr.+Plastics/@37.7091519,-122.1546962,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f8fe7938349a3:0xafcb2526326faccd!8m2!3d37.7091519!4d-122.1525022 Mr. Plastics] is cheapest but is in San Leandro.<br />
<br />
For woods: [http://www.google.com/maps/place/Discount+Builders+Supply/@37.7704879,-122.4191311,15z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0x3c0d6c6e25a89652?sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjV87WU-JzOAhUI6WMKHSPABOUQ_BIIeTAK Discount Builder Supply] is nearby.</div>Scottyhttps://www.noisebridge.net/index.php?title=Laser_Manual&diff=53053Laser Manual2016-08-03T04:34:36Z<p>Scotty: /* Who can use the laser cutter */</p>
<hr />
<div>== Contact list ==<br />
<br />
=== Trainers ===<br />
<br />
* Scotty Allen (@scotty on slack)<br />
* Darryl (@augur on slack)<br />
* Ruth Grace (@ruthgrace on slack)<br />
* Kyle (@kylesewing on slack)<br />
<br />
== Who can use the laser cutter ==<br />
<br />
Only people who have been trained by an official trainer can use the laser cutter, in order to prevent unintended damage to the machine, operator, and Noisebridge.<br />
<br />
Scotty Allen (@scotty) - Trainer<br />
Darryl McAdams(@augur) - Trainer<br />
Ruth Grace Wong (@ruthgrace) - Trainer<br />
Kyle Ng (@kylesewing) - Trainer<br />
Henner Zeller (@hzeller)<br />
Adrian Kelly (@akelly)<br />
Nick Pisaro (@nickp)<br />
<br />
== How to get trained to use the laser cutter ==<br />
<br />
# Ask a trainer if they will train you<br />
# Schedule a time with the trainer<br />
# Get trained<br />
# Get your name on the list of users before the first time you use the machine<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
* maintaining a verifiable list of users<br />
** users can be found at: URL<br />
<br />
* maintaining a verifiable list of safety? trainers<br />
** trainers can be found at: URL<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Basic Safety ==<br />
The laser cutter is generally a very safe machine to use. However, as with all industrial machines, you need to treat it with respect. The main safety concerns are creating fires, hurting your eyes or skin, getting crushed by the machine, and creating toxic fumes.<br />
<br />
The basics:<br />
* ALWAYS WATCH YOUR WORK!<br />
* OPEN THE LID if you see a fire<br />
* BLOW IT OUT if the fire keeps burning<br />
* DON'T CUT UNAPPROVED MATERIALS!<br />
<br />
=== Fire ===<br />
<br />
You can really hurt yourself or burn the building down with this machine. If you follow the safety rules, the chances of you causing this is close to zero. Some materials are very flammable on the laser cutter, and shouldn't be cut. Never cut an unapproved material, or a material that you don't know what it is. A laser beam can also initiate a fire if the speed of the cut is too slow or the laser power is set too high.<br />
<br />
<br />
Ways to not cause fires:<br />
* ALWAYS WATCH THE LASER CUTTER WHENEVER IT IS CUTTING AS FIRES CAN HAPPEN. The laser affects your material by heating it. Your job can change in seconds with the accumulation of heat in your material. Never leave the room while the laser is in operation. If you leave the laser unattended, your access to the laser cutter will be permanently revoked.<br />
* Use reasonable speed/power settings. Start with the recommended speed/power settings for your material. Be patient - resist the temptation to crank the power and speed to rush through your job. This can cause fires.<br />
** There will be some light when material is cut. This light at the point of lasing may be ok as long as it stays with the motion of the laser. If a flame appears while the laser is in operation, stop your job and try again with lower heat settings.<br />
* Know where the fire extinguisher is in case of a fire. The ONLY fire extinguisher that should be used on the laser cutter is the halotron extinguisher right next to the laser cutter. Other fire extinguishers are corrosive and will ruin the machine.<br />
<br />
How to put out a fire:<br />
* Push the estop. (To turn the machine back on after the estop was hit, you need to switch the power switch on the right hand side of the machine off and on again).<br />
* Open the lid.<br />
* If it's small, try and blow it out.<br />
* If it's smallish, try and squirt it out with the water squirt bottle sitting on the right hand side of the machine.<br />
* If that doesn't work, use the halotron fire extinguisher to the right of the laser cutter. Aim it at the base of the flame.<br />
<br />
=== Damage to eyes and skin ===<br />
The laser beam can instantly and permanently blind you. It can also burn your skin.<br />
* you don't ever want any part of your body in contact with the beam.<br />
* As long as the door is closed, you're safe to look at the laser. There are interlocks on the door that help ensure the laser never operates with the doors open. Don't disable them.<br />
<br />
=== Crushing danger ===<br />
<br />
The laser cutter is a dumb machine. It doesn't care whether your hand is in the way when it's moving. The head can move when the door is open. Always make sure everyone's hands are out of the machine before moving the head.<br />
<br />
Also be very careful not to crash the head into other parts of the machine. Be very careful when moving the z-axis to not crash the head into the bed, and to not move the z-axis if the focus length acrylic circle is under the lens.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Fumes ===<br />
The laser cutter burns the things it's cutting, which can create toxic fumes.<br />
* ONLY CUT APPROVED MATERIALS. Cutting nonapproved materials can release really toxic gases, including chlorine and cyanide. These are really bad for humans, as well as being very damaging to the laser cutter.<br />
* The ventilation fan should always be running if the laser cutter is on, even if it's not cutting. It's currently wired such that you can't turn on the laser cutter without the fan turning on, but please make sure it's running.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Care of the machine ==<br />
<br />
'''Please don't perform any maintenance on the machine (including cleaning lenses/mirrors or aligning mirrors) unless you've specifically trained on it.'''<br />
<br />
The laser cutter is finely calibrated piece of machinery. Please close the lid gently, and do not push or jar the machine at any time. Do not lean or press on the tray - it's fragile, and needs to be perfectly flat for the laser cutter to cut properly. If you take the honeycomb bed or slats out, please be ULTRA CAREFUL with them - put them somewhere where they won't get damaged or warped.<br />
<br />
== Paying for your laser time ==<br />
<br />
The laser cutter has parts that wear out over time, which can be quite costly to replace, especially the laser tube. A new tube costs several thousand dollars. Thus, we require people to pay for the time on the laser they use, so we can pay for new parts.<br />
<br />
To figure out how much time your job takes, press the File button, select your file, and then select Work Time from the menu. It will tell you in hours:minutes.seconds.<br />
<br />
Please pay for the cutting time you actually use, even if you end up running your job multiple times.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Workflows ==<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Overall Workflow ===<br />
<br />
This is the overall structure of the workflow. Each part is elaborated below.<br />
<br />
# Laser start up<br />
# Material setup<br />
# Convert file to DXF<br />
# Load file onto the machine<br />
# Dry run<br />
# Cut/Engrave<br />
# Laser shut down<br />
# Cleanup<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Laser start up ===<br />
<br />
# Turn on power and ensure that the fan and chiller are running<br />
# Move the head as far forward and right as possible, close to the controls<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Material setup ===<br />
<br />
# Clean the bed of any scraps that may be on it<br />
# Move the cut head as far forward and right as possible (near the controls)<br />
# Raise the laser head as far up as possible<br />
# Raise the bed to the desired height, watching the laser head to avoid crashes<br />
# Move the laser head as far back and right as possible<br />
# Place material on the bed<br />
# Focus the laser (do at least for each distinct thickness, optimally do for each piece of material)<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Focusing the laser ===<br />
<br />
Noisebridge has acryllic disks cut to various thicknesses that can be used to accurately focus the laser. Specifically the laser head needs to be locked to 8mm above the surface of the material you're cutting.<br />
<br />
# Place the material on the cut bed<br />
# Move the cut head to the center of the area to cut, watching the laser head to avoid crashes w/ material<br />
# Loosen the wing nut and raise the head all the way up<br />
# Place the focusing discs on the material under the head<br />
# Lower the head until it just touches the focusing disc (8mm above material)<br />
# Lock the head in place (tighten the wing nut)<br />
# Remove the focusing discs<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Convert an image in Inkscape to a DXF file ===<br />
<br />
# Load the image into Inkscape<br />
# Set the different cut paths to different colors (for controlling settings, etc.)<br />
# Save as a DXF. Be sure to make the units be millimeters so that importing later will correctly scale the image.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Debugging DXF Problems ===<br />
<br />
Sometimes exporting to DXF introduces bizarre extra lines. There are two things to try to debug. The first is to convert objects to paths:<br />
<br />
# Select all the problematic shapes<br />
# Path > Object to Path<br />
<br />
If this fails to resolve the issue, you can try a more radical solution which will eliminate all bezier paths entirely:<br />
<br />
# Select all the problematic shapes<br />
# Convert bezier paths to lines (Extensions > Modify Path > Flatten Bezier).<br />
<br />
Flatness 0.5 is good to start with. Smaller = better approximation of the curves. A lower flatness number takes more time to compute, but also produces a better approximation to the curve.<br />
<br />
Sometimes need to select the path's directly with the path tool (but not the points!).<br />
<br />
=== Loading into the laser cutter software ===<br />
<br />
# Import the file with File > Import<br />
# Resize as needed, tho if the file was exported w/ millimeter units, the software should also import the image with the correct size.<br />
# Set the cut order:<br />
##* EITHER Set the cut order to inside-out (Handle > Cut optimize > Inside to outside)<br />
##* OR Manually specify cut order with the Set cut property tool (Edit > Set cutting property). See below for more details.<br />
# Set the speed and power for the layers as necessary.<br />
# Optionally, simulate the cutting/engraving process.<br />
# Download to the machine (Laser Work panel on the bottom right).<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Manually specifying cut order ===<br />
<br />
In the Set cutting property window (Edit > Set cutting property), you can manually re-order the cut paths. In the window, you'll see an image of the workpiece, and to its right, two lists of paths. When you first open the window, all of the cut paths are in the left. If you select a path (either in the image or in the list) and click the button labeled ">>", this path will be transferred to the end of the right list of paths. If you click ">>>", all of the paths in the left list will be moved to the end of the right list (preserving order). Similarly, clicking "<<<" will move the right list to the end of the left list. If you select a cut path in the right list, the up and down arrow buttons will reorder that path in the chosen direction.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Loading speed and power settings from library ===<br />
<br />
# In the top right panel, double click the layer of interest<br />
# Click "Load parameters from library"<br />
# Select the library item<br />
# Click "Load"<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Saving power and speed settings to library ===<br />
<br />
# In the top right panel, double click the layer of interest<br />
# Make sure the layer is set to the desired parameters<br />
# Click "Load parameters from library"<br />
# Click "Save as"<br />
# Enter a name and optionally some notes<br />
# Click "Ok"<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Simulation ===<br />
<br />
# Open the simulation window with either Edit > Preview or the toolbar button labelled with a monitor.<br />
# Click the Simulation button in the right panel<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Cutting ===<br />
<br />
# Select the file to use using the File button<br />
# Move the head to the initial guess origin with the arrow buttons<br />
# Test the frame with the Frame button adjust origin as necessary<br />
# Set the origin by pressing Origin<br />
# Test the cut by turning the laser power off and pressing the Start/Pause button<br />
# Turn the laser power on<br />
# Cut by pressing the Start/Pause button<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Engraving ===<br />
<br />
TODO<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Cancel a cut/dry run ===<br />
<br />
# Pause with the Start/Pause button<br />
# Cancel and move back to the origin with the Esc button<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Laser shut down ===<br />
<br />
# Move the head as far forward and right as possible (near the controls)<br />
# Raise the laser head as far up as possible<br />
# Let the fan run for a little bit (~30 seconds)<br />
# Turn the power off<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Cleanup ===<br />
<br />
# Remove pieces of material scrap left on the bed<br />
# Open the tray door on the front bottom and empty the scraps left there<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Calculating work time ===<br />
<br />
On the computer:<br />
<br />
* Open the simulation window (see above). Total work time and time of laser use are displayed in the top right. Donations should be calculated by laser use, not total work time.<br />
<br />
On the machine:<br />
<br />
* Whole file: File > Select file > Right Arrow > Work Time > Enter<br />
* Current run: Pause the cut, then check time at the bottom right<br />
<br />
== Maintenance==<br />
<br />
'''Please don't perform any maintenance on the machine (including cleaning lenses/mirrors or aligning mirrors) unless you've specifically trained on it.'''<br />
<br />
* TEMP note: some check(s) may be included outside of maintenance so a user can trigger a maintenance notification<br />
* DON'T - let someone who has been trained do it<br />
* how to tell if the lens is dirty (or getting old?)<br />
* how to tell if the mirrors are dirty<br />
** Cleaning the mirrors<br />
*** ethanol solution? isopropanol? - see manual.<br />
*** fabric must be non scratch - see manual.<br />
* Checking and performing mirror alignment<br />
** Safety - remove gratings and any other reflective surfaces before any maintenance that requires disabling the door sensors.<br />
** TEMP note: in restrospect the alignment was a very dangerous situation. mirror paths were not checked before powering on the laser with the door open with many people around. (or maybe nigel is just insanely good at configuring mirrors... still... reddit.com/r/OSHA)<br />
** Tape test - mirrors 1,2,3 and their corresponding exits. Slightly propped laser tube.<br />
** vertical/horizontal alignment by brass dial.<br />
* Checking chiller tank water volume<br />
** Chiller alarm - what does it mean<br />
** Checking tank water volume<br />
** Refilling tank water<br />
* Cleaning the bed and waste drawer (this section probably should be moved to usage)<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Signs:<br />
* <strike>Don't open front/back passthrough doors (for now)</strike><br />
* <strike>Fire extinguishers - which to use for what fire</strike><br />
* Approved materials<br />
* <strike>careful when raising bed, dont crash into laser head</strike><br />
* move laser head out of the way before opening the lid<br />
* power off the laser before opening the lid ???<br />
* <strike>watch the laser while it is cutting</strike><br />
<br />
<br />
Todos:<br />
* <strike>Move the machine further away from the right wall so we can get to the power switch.</strike><br />
* <strike>label the water squirt bottle as for fires and not to remove</strike><br />
* acquire piece of copper for chlorine materials test<br />
* acquire vinyl record for testing<br />
* acquire propane bottle and nozzle<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
material notes<br />
* material selection - approved materials list<br />
** nothing that generates hazerdous fumes, particularly chlorine/formeldahyde<br />
** no aluminum or other metals (?? ryan claims these can be safely engraved in this machine)<br />
** nothing reflective<br />
** size constraints<br />
* laser configuration - power, speed<br />
** table of recommmended settings for various materials<br />
<br />
How to get a new/novel material approved<br />
* consensus process<br />
* chlorine test<br />
<br />
== Chlorine material test ==<br />
<br />
Before you cut any new material you *must* check that it is safe to cut; specifically that it will not produce chlorine gas when it is burned by the cutting laser. Chlorine is extremely dangerous in its gaseous form and so must be avoided at all costs. <br />
<br />
To test a new material, you'll need a sample of the material, a small copper rod (about the thickness of a coat hanger), a pliars, and a handheld propane torch. We'll test for the presence of chlorine by burning a sample of the material in a high temperature propane flame and observe the visible emission spectra. Chrlorine produces a bright green light when burned, and so will be very obvious when you're testing your material.<br />
<br />
First, light the propane torch and set it to rest upright on a stable surface. Taking the pliar, hold the piece of copper in the blue part of the flame to heat it. As the copper begins to heat sufficiently it'll cause the flame to turn an orange color. A consistent orange color means that the copper has no residue material on its surface and so is clean enough to use as a test. If you observe non-orange flames when you burn the copper you may need to clean in further, either by waiting for the excess material to burn off, or by scrubbing the surface of the copper when it has cooled.<br />
<br />
Once the copper is burning, take the hot copper and melt a sample of the new material onto it. For example if you were testing a new form of plastic you can roll the hot copper rod on the material, melting some of it onto the copper rod's surface.<br />
<br />
With this done, place the copper rod back into the blue part of the flame. Observe the colors of the emission spectra from the new material burning. If you observe a bright green color, then the material contains chlorine and thus *must not* be burned further. Ventilate your surrounding area to avoid breathing it in. If you observe no green color as you burn your material sample, then the material is likely safe to use with the laser cutter.<br />
<br />
Here is a video example by Zach in NYCResistor with a known good and known bad material: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D0_4NLmeSTI<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== BANNED MATERIALS (NEVER USE THESE) ==<br />
<br />
These materials '''must not be used in the laser cutter'''. <br />
<br />
{|border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"<br />
|-<br />
! colspan="10" bgcolor="#ccc" | Bad materials<br />
|-<br />
! Material<br />
! Notes<br />
|-<br />
| PVC || Contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br />
|-<br />
| Vinyl || Most contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br />
|- <br />
| PVC Foams || Most contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br />
|- <br />
| Foam Core || Usually made with PVC which is harmful as listed above. <br />
|- <br />
| Styrofoam || Can cause flash fires<br />
|-<br />
| Polycarbonate or PETG || Does not cut. TAP plastics sells both this and acrylic. '''Be sure to read your labels when purchasing material'''. Lexan is the trade name for Polycarbonate, while Plexiglass is the trade name for acrylic.<br />
|- <br />
| ABS || Gives of hydrogen cyanide<br />
|- <br />
| Fiberglass ||<br />
|- <br />
| Metals || Cannot be etched by this type of laser. Also is harmful as the reflective surface may cause the laser to be reflected back up to the head, damaging it. If someone claims to be etching metal using this type of laser then they are etching a metal with a plastic coating, anodized surface, or some other etchable surface on top.<br />
<br />
|}<br />
<br />
== Known good materials ==<br />
<br />
These materials are known to be ok for use with the laser cutter. The speed and power of the laser cutter will need to be set appropriately for the material and thickness in use. Below is a table showing the suggested settings when cutting or etching them.<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" <br />
|-<br />
! colspan="10" bgcolor="#cccccc" | Cardboards/Papers<br />
|-<br />
! rowspan="2" | Material<br />
! colspan="3" | Engraving <br />
! colspan="2" | Cutting<br />
! colspan="2" | Scoring<br />
! rowspan="1" | Notes<br />
|-<br />
! Speed (mm/s) !! Power !! DPI !! Speed !! Power !! Speed !! Power ||<br />
|-|-|-<br />
| 4mm corregated cardboard || || || || 50 mm/s || 15 || 50 mm/s || 5 || Minimum line separation at 50/15 = 1/2mm (see reference cuts for more details)<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
== Sourcing Material ==<br />
<br />
In general, you can get stuff form Amazon, but you have to wait for shipping.<br />
<br />
For plastics: [http://www.google.com/maps/place/TAP+Plastics/@37.7711648,-122.4207603,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f7e27351bb079:0x7e3610d7dc178b10!8m2!3d37.7711648!4d-122.4185663 Tap Plastics] is nearby Noisebridge, but is expensive, [http://eplastics.com eplastics] is cheaper but you need to wait for shipping, and [https://www.google.com/maps/place/Mr.+Plastics/@37.7091519,-122.1546962,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f8fe7938349a3:0xafcb2526326faccd!8m2!3d37.7091519!4d-122.1525022 Mr. Plastics] is cheapest but is in San Leandro.<br />
<br />
For woods: [http://www.google.com/maps/place/Discount+Builders+Supply/@37.7704879,-122.4191311,15z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0x3c0d6c6e25a89652?sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjV87WU-JzOAhUI6WMKHSPABOUQ_BIIeTAK Discount Builder Supply] is nearby.</div>Scottyhttps://www.noisebridge.net/index.php?title=Laser_Manual&diff=53044Laser Manual2016-08-03T01:50:39Z<p>Scotty: /* Contact list */</p>
<hr />
<div>== Contact list ==<br />
<br />
=== Trainers ===<br />
<br />
* Scotty Allen (@scotty on slack)<br />
* Darryl (@augur on slack)<br />
* Ruth Grace (@ruthgrace on slack)<br />
* Kyle (@kylesewing on slack)<br />
<br />
== Who can use the laser cutter ==<br />
<br />
Only people who have been trained by an official trainer can use the laser cutter, in order to prevent unintended damage to the machine, operator, and Noisebridge.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== How to get trained to use the laser cutter ==<br />
<br />
# Ask a trainer if they will train you<br />
# Schedule a time with the trainer<br />
# Get trained<br />
# Get your name on the list of users before the first time you use the machine<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
* maintaining a verifiable list of users<br />
** users can be found at: URL<br />
<br />
* maintaining a verifiable list of safety? trainers<br />
** trainers can be found at: URL<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Basic Safety ==<br />
The laser cutter is generally a very safe machine to use. However, as with all industrial machines, you need to treat it with respect. The main safety concerns are creating fires, hurting your eyes or skin, getting crushed by the machine, and creating toxic fumes.<br />
<br />
The basics:<br />
* ALWAYS WATCH YOUR WORK!<br />
* OPEN THE LID if you see a fire<br />
* BLOW IT OUT if the fire keeps burning<br />
* DON'T CUT UNAPPROVED MATERIALS!<br />
<br />
=== Fire ===<br />
<br />
You can really hurt yourself or burn the building down with this machine. If you follow the safety rules, the chances of you causing this is close to zero. Some materials are very flammable on the laser cutter, and shouldn't be cut. Never cut an unapproved material, or a material that you don't know what it is. A laser beam can also initiate a fire if the speed of the cut is too slow or the laser power is set too high.<br />
<br />
<br />
Ways to not cause fires:<br />
* ALWAYS WATCH THE LASER CUTTER WHENEVER IT IS CUTTING AS FIRES CAN HAPPEN. The laser affects your material by heating it. Your job can change in seconds with the accumulation of heat in your material. Never leave the room while the laser is in operation. If you leave the laser unattended, your access to the laser cutter will be permanently revoked.<br />
* Use reasonable speed/power settings. Start with the recommended speed/power settings for your material. Be patient - resist the temptation to crank the power and speed to rush through your job. This can cause fires.<br />
** There will be some light when material is cut. This light at the point of lasing may be ok as long as it stays with the motion of the laser. If a flame appears while the laser is in operation, stop your job and try again with lower heat settings.<br />
* Know where the fire extinguisher is in case of a fire. The ONLY fire extinguisher that should be used on the laser cutter is the halotron extinguisher right next to the laser cutter. Other fire extinguishers are corrosive and will ruin the machine.<br />
<br />
How to put out a fire:<br />
* Push the estop. (To turn the machine back on after the estop was hit, you need to switch the power switch on the right hand side of the machine off and on again).<br />
* Open the lid.<br />
* If it's small, try and blow it out.<br />
* If it's smallish, try and squirt it out with the water squirt bottle sitting on the right hand side of the machine.<br />
* If that doesn't work, use the halotron fire extinguisher to the right of the laser cutter. Aim it at the base of the flame.<br />
<br />
=== Damage to eyes and skin ===<br />
The laser beam can instantly and permanently blind you. It can also burn your skin.<br />
* you don't ever want any part of your body in contact with the beam.<br />
* As long as the door is closed, you're safe to look at the laser. There are interlocks on the door that help ensure the laser never operates with the doors open. Don't disable them.<br />
<br />
=== Crushing danger ===<br />
<br />
The laser cutter is a dumb machine. It doesn't care whether your hand is in the way when it's moving. The head can move when the door is open. Always make sure everyone's hands are out of the machine before moving the head.<br />
<br />
Also be very careful not to crash the head into other parts of the machine. Be very careful when moving the z-axis to not crash the head into the bed, and to not move the z-axis if the focus length acrylic circle is under the lens.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Fumes ===<br />
The laser cutter burns the things it's cutting, which can create toxic fumes.<br />
* ONLY CUT APPROVED MATERIALS. Cutting nonapproved materials can release really toxic gases, including chlorine and cyanide. These are really bad for humans, as well as being very damaging to the laser cutter.<br />
* The ventilation fan should always be running if the laser cutter is on, even if it's not cutting. It's currently wired such that you can't turn on the laser cutter without the fan turning on, but please make sure it's running.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Care of the machine ==<br />
<br />
'''Please don't perform any maintenance on the machine (including cleaning lenses/mirrors or aligning mirrors) unless you've specifically trained on it.'''<br />
<br />
The laser cutter is finely calibrated piece of machinery. Please close the lid gently, and do not push or jar the machine at any time. Do not lean or press on the tray - it's fragile, and needs to be perfectly flat for the laser cutter to cut properly. If you take the honeycomb bed or slats out, please be ULTRA CAREFUL with them - put them somewhere where they won't get damaged or warped.<br />
<br />
== Paying for your laser time ==<br />
<br />
The laser cutter has parts that wear out over time, which can be quite costly to replace, especially the laser tube. A new tube costs several thousand dollars. Thus, we require people to pay for the time on the laser they use, so we can pay for new parts.<br />
<br />
To figure out how much time your job takes, press the File button, select your file, and then select Work Time from the menu. It will tell you in hours:minutes.seconds.<br />
<br />
Please pay for the cutting time you actually use, even if you end up running your job multiple times.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Workflows ==<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Overall Workflow ===<br />
<br />
This is the overall structure of the workflow. Each part is elaborated below.<br />
<br />
# Laser start up<br />
# Material setup<br />
# Convert file to DXF<br />
# Load file onto the machine<br />
# Dry run<br />
# Cut/Engrave<br />
# Laser shut down<br />
# Cleanup<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Laser start up ===<br />
<br />
# Turn on power and ensure that the fan and chiller are running<br />
# Move the head as far forward and right as possible, close to the controls<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Material setup ===<br />
<br />
# Clean the bed of any scraps that may be on it<br />
# Move the cut head as far forward and right as possible (near the controls)<br />
# Raise the laser head as far up as possible<br />
# Raise the bed to the desired height, watching the laser head to avoid crashes<br />
# Move the laser head as far back and right as possible<br />
# Place material on the bed<br />
# Focus the laser (do at least for each distinct thickness, optimally do for each piece of material)<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Focusing the laser ===<br />
<br />
Noisebridge has acryllic disks cut to various thicknesses that can be used to accurately focus the laser. Specifically the laser head needs to be locked to 8mm above the surface of the material you're cutting.<br />
<br />
# Place the material on the cut bed<br />
# Move the cut head to the center of the area to cut, watching the laser head to avoid crashes w/ material<br />
# Loosen the wing nut and raise the head all the way up<br />
# Place the focusing discs on the material under the head<br />
# Lower the head until it just touches the focusing disc (8mm above material)<br />
# Lock the head in place (tighten the wing nut)<br />
# Remove the focusing discs<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Convert an image in Inkscape to a DXF file ===<br />
<br />
# Load the image into Inkscape<br />
# Set the different cut paths to different colors (for controlling settings, etc.)<br />
# Save as a DXF. Be sure to make the units be millimeters so that importing later will correctly scale the image.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Debugging DXF Problems ===<br />
<br />
Sometimes exporting to DXF introduces bizarre extra lines. There are two things to try to debug. The first is to convert objects to paths:<br />
<br />
# Select all the problematic shapes<br />
# Path > Object to Path<br />
<br />
If this fails to resolve the issue, you can try a more radical solution which will eliminate all bezier paths entirely:<br />
<br />
# Select all the problematic shapes<br />
# Convert bezier paths to lines (Extensions > Modify Path > Flatten Bezier).<br />
<br />
Flatness 0.5 is good to start with. Smaller = better approximation of the curves. A lower flatness number takes more time to compute, but also produces a better approximation to the curve.<br />
<br />
Sometimes need to select the path's directly with the path tool (but not the points!).<br />
<br />
=== Loading into the laser cutter software ===<br />
<br />
# Import the file with File > Import<br />
# Resize as needed, tho if the file was exported w/ millimeter units, the software should also import the image with the correct size.<br />
# Set the cut order:<br />
##* EITHER Set the cut order to inside-out (Handle > Cut optimize > Inside to outside)<br />
##* OR Manually specify cut order with the Set cut property tool (Edit > Set cutting property). See below for more details.<br />
# Set the speed and power for the layers as necessary.<br />
# Optionally, simulate the cutting/engraving process.<br />
# Download to the machine (Laser Work panel on the bottom right).<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Manually specifying cut order ===<br />
<br />
In the Set cutting property window (Edit > Set cutting property), you can manually re-order the cut paths. In the window, you'll see an image of the workpiece, and to its right, two lists of paths. When you first open the window, all of the cut paths are in the left. If you select a path (either in the image or in the list) and click the button labeled ">>", this path will be transferred to the end of the right list of paths. If you click ">>>", all of the paths in the left list will be moved to the end of the right list (preserving order). Similarly, clicking "<<<" will move the right list to the end of the left list. If you select a cut path in the right list, the up and down arrow buttons will reorder that path in the chosen direction.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Loading speed and power settings from library ===<br />
<br />
# In the top right panel, double click the layer of interest<br />
# Click "Load parameters from library"<br />
# Select the library item<br />
# Click "Load"<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Saving power and speed settings to library ===<br />
<br />
# In the top right panel, double click the layer of interest<br />
# Make sure the layer is set to the desired parameters<br />
# Click "Load parameters from library"<br />
# Click "Save as"<br />
# Enter a name and optionally some notes<br />
# Click "Ok"<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Simulation ===<br />
<br />
# Open the simulation window with either Edit > Preview or the toolbar button labelled with a monitor.<br />
# Click the Simulation button in the right panel<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Cutting ===<br />
<br />
# Select the file to use using the File button<br />
# Move the head to the initial guess origin with the arrow buttons<br />
# Test the frame with the Frame button adjust origin as necessary<br />
# Set the origin by pressing Origin<br />
# Test the cut by turning the laser power off and pressing the Start/Pause button<br />
# Turn the laser power on<br />
# Cut by pressing the Start/Pause button<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Engraving ===<br />
<br />
TODO<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Cancel a cut/dry run ===<br />
<br />
# Pause with the Start/Pause button<br />
# Cancel and move back to the origin with the Esc button<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Laser shut down ===<br />
<br />
# Move the head as far forward and right as possible (near the controls)<br />
# Raise the laser head as far up as possible<br />
# Let the fan run for a little bit (~30 seconds)<br />
# Turn the power off<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Cleanup ===<br />
<br />
# Remove pieces of material scrap left on the bed<br />
# Open the tray door on the front bottom and empty the scraps left there<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Calculating work time ===<br />
<br />
On the computer:<br />
<br />
* Open the simulation window (see above). Total work time and time of laser use are displayed in the top right. Donations should be calculated by laser use, not total work time.<br />
<br />
On the machine:<br />
<br />
* Whole file: File > Select file > Right Arrow > Work Time > Enter<br />
* Current run: Pause the cut, then check time at the bottom right<br />
<br />
== Maintenance==<br />
<br />
'''Please don't perform any maintenance on the machine (including cleaning lenses/mirrors or aligning mirrors) unless you've specifically trained on it.'''<br />
<br />
* TEMP note: some check(s) may be included outside of maintenance so a user can trigger a maintenance notification<br />
* DON'T - let someone who has been trained do it<br />
* how to tell if the lens is dirty (or getting old?)<br />
* how to tell if the mirrors are dirty<br />
** Cleaning the mirrors<br />
*** ethanol solution? isopropanol? - see manual.<br />
*** fabric must be non scratch - see manual.<br />
* Checking and performing mirror alignment<br />
** Safety - remove gratings and any other reflective surfaces before any maintenance that requires disabling the door sensors.<br />
** TEMP note: in restrospect the alignment was a very dangerous situation. mirror paths were not checked before powering on the laser with the door open with many people around. (or maybe nigel is just insanely good at configuring mirrors... still... reddit.com/r/OSHA)<br />
** Tape test - mirrors 1,2,3 and their corresponding exits. Slightly propped laser tube.<br />
** vertical/horizontal alignment by brass dial.<br />
* Checking chiller tank water volume<br />
** Chiller alarm - what does it mean<br />
** Checking tank water volume<br />
** Refilling tank water<br />
* Cleaning the bed and waste drawer (this section probably should be moved to usage)<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Signs:<br />
* <strike>Don't open front/back passthrough doors (for now)</strike><br />
* <strike>Fire extinguishers - which to use for what fire</strike><br />
* Approved materials<br />
* <strike>careful when raising bed, dont crash into laser head</strike><br />
* move laser head out of the way before opening the lid<br />
* power off the laser before opening the lid ???<br />
* <strike>watch the laser while it is cutting</strike><br />
<br />
<br />
Todos:<br />
* <strike>Move the machine further away from the right wall so we can get to the power switch.</strike><br />
* <strike>label the water squirt bottle as for fires and not to remove</strike><br />
* acquire piece of copper for chlorine materials test<br />
* acquire vinyl record for testing<br />
* acquire propane bottle and nozzle<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
material notes<br />
* material selection - approved materials list<br />
** nothing that generates hazerdous fumes, particularly chlorine/formeldahyde<br />
** no aluminum or other metals (?? ryan claims these can be safely engraved in this machine)<br />
** nothing reflective<br />
** size constraints<br />
* laser configuration - power, speed<br />
** table of recommmended settings for various materials<br />
<br />
How to get a new/novel material approved<br />
* consensus process<br />
* chlorine test<br />
<br />
== Chlorine material test ==<br />
<br />
Before you cut any new material you *must* check that it is safe to cut; specifically that it will not produce chlorine gas when it is burned by the cutting laser. Chlorine is extremely dangerous in its gaseous form and so must be avoided at all costs. <br />
<br />
To test a new material, you'll need a sample of the material, a small copper rod (about the thickness of a coat hanger), a pliars, and a handheld propane torch. We'll test for the presence of chlorine by burning a sample of the material in a high temperature propane flame and observe the visible emission spectra. Chrlorine produces a bright green light when burned, and so will be very obvious when you're testing your material.<br />
<br />
First, light the propane torch and set it to rest upright on a stable surface. Taking the pliar, hold the piece of copper in the blue part of the flame to heat it. As the copper begins to heat sufficiently it'll cause the flame to turn an orange color. A consistent orange color means that the copper has no residue material on its surface and so is clean enough to use as a test. If you observe non-orange flames when you burn the copper you may need to clean in further, either by waiting for the excess material to burn off, or by scrubbing the surface of the copper when it has cooled.<br />
<br />
Once the copper is burning, take the hot copper and melt a sample of the new material onto it. For example if you were testing a new form of plastic you can roll the hot copper rod on the material, melting some of it onto the copper rod's surface.<br />
<br />
With this done, place the copper rod back into the blue part of the flame. Observe the colors of the emission spectra from the new material burning. If you observe a bright green color, then the material contains chlorine and thus *must not* be burned further. Ventilate your surrounding area to avoid breathing it in. If you observe no green color as you burn your material sample, then the material is likely safe to use with the laser cutter.<br />
<br />
Here is a video example by Zach in NYCResistor with a known good and known bad material: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D0_4NLmeSTI<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== BANNED MATERIALS (NEVER USE THESE) ==<br />
<br />
These materials '''must not be used in the laser cutter'''. <br />
<br />
{|border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"<br />
|-<br />
! colspan="10" bgcolor="#ccc" | Bad materials<br />
|-<br />
! Material<br />
! Notes<br />
|-<br />
| PVC || Contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br />
|-<br />
| Vinyl || Most contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br />
|- <br />
| PVC Foams || Most contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br />
|- <br />
| Foam Core || Usually made with PVC which is harmful as listed above. <br />
|- <br />
| Styrofoam || Can cause flash fires<br />
|-<br />
| Polycarbonate or PETG || Does not cut. TAP plastics sells both this and acrylic. '''Be sure to read your labels when purchasing material'''. Lexan is the trade name for Polycarbonate, while Plexiglass is the trade name for acrylic.<br />
|- <br />
| ABS || Gives of hydrogen cyanide<br />
|- <br />
| Fiberglass ||<br />
|- <br />
| Metals || Cannot be etched by this type of laser. Also is harmful as the reflective surface may cause the laser to be reflected back up to the head, damaging it. If someone claims to be etching metal using this type of laser then they are etching a metal with a plastic coating, anodized surface, or some other etchable surface on top.<br />
<br />
|}<br />
<br />
== Known good materials ==<br />
<br />
These materials are known to be ok for use with the laser cutter. The speed and power of the laser cutter will need to be set appropriately for the material and thickness in use. Below is a table showing the suggested settings when cutting or etching them.<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" <br />
|-<br />
! colspan="10" bgcolor="#cccccc" | Cardboards/Papers<br />
|-<br />
! rowspan="2" | Material<br />
! colspan="3" | Engraving <br />
! colspan="2" | Cutting<br />
! colspan="2" | Scoring<br />
! rowspan="1" | Notes<br />
|-<br />
! Speed (mm/s) !! Power !! DPI !! Speed !! Power !! Speed !! Power ||<br />
|-|-|-<br />
| 4mm corregated cardboard || || || || 50 mm/s || 15 || 50 mm/s || 5 || Minimum line separation at 50/15 = 1/2mm (see reference cuts for more details)<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
== Sourcing Material ==<br />
<br />
In general, you can get stuff form Amazon, but you have to wait for shipping.<br />
<br />
For plastics: [http://www.google.com/maps/place/TAP+Plastics/@37.7711648,-122.4207603,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f7e27351bb079:0x7e3610d7dc178b10!8m2!3d37.7711648!4d-122.4185663 Tap Plastics] is nearby Noisebridge, but is expensive, [http://eplastics.com eplastics] is cheaper but you need to wait for shipping, and [https://www.google.com/maps/place/Mr.+Plastics/@37.7091519,-122.1546962,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f8fe7938349a3:0xafcb2526326faccd!8m2!3d37.7091519!4d-122.1525022 Mr. Plastics] is cheapest but is in San Leandro.<br />
<br />
For woods: [http://www.google.com/maps/place/Discount+Builders+Supply/@37.7704879,-122.4191311,15z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0x3c0d6c6e25a89652?sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjV87WU-JzOAhUI6WMKHSPABOUQ_BIIeTAK Discount Builder Supply] is nearby.</div>Scottyhttps://www.noisebridge.net/index.php?title=Laser_Manual&diff=53043Laser Manual2016-08-03T01:49:52Z<p>Scotty: /* Care of the machine */</p>
<hr />
<div>== Contact list ==<br />
<br />
=== Trainers ===<br />
<br />
Scotty Allen (@scotty on slack)<br />
Darryl (@augur on slack)<br />
Ruth Grace (@ruthgrace on slack)<br />
Kyle (@kylesewing on slack)<br />
<br />
== Who can use the laser cutter ==<br />
<br />
Only people who have been trained by an official trainer can use the laser cutter, in order to prevent unintended damage to the machine, operator, and Noisebridge.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== How to get trained to use the laser cutter ==<br />
<br />
# Ask a trainer if they will train you<br />
# Schedule a time with the trainer<br />
# Get trained<br />
# Get your name on the list of users before the first time you use the machine<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
* maintaining a verifiable list of users<br />
** users can be found at: URL<br />
<br />
* maintaining a verifiable list of safety? trainers<br />
** trainers can be found at: URL<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Basic Safety ==<br />
The laser cutter is generally a very safe machine to use. However, as with all industrial machines, you need to treat it with respect. The main safety concerns are creating fires, hurting your eyes or skin, getting crushed by the machine, and creating toxic fumes.<br />
<br />
The basics:<br />
* ALWAYS WATCH YOUR WORK!<br />
* OPEN THE LID if you see a fire<br />
* BLOW IT OUT if the fire keeps burning<br />
* DON'T CUT UNAPPROVED MATERIALS!<br />
<br />
=== Fire ===<br />
<br />
You can really hurt yourself or burn the building down with this machine. If you follow the safety rules, the chances of you causing this is close to zero. Some materials are very flammable on the laser cutter, and shouldn't be cut. Never cut an unapproved material, or a material that you don't know what it is. A laser beam can also initiate a fire if the speed of the cut is too slow or the laser power is set too high.<br />
<br />
<br />
Ways to not cause fires:<br />
* ALWAYS WATCH THE LASER CUTTER WHENEVER IT IS CUTTING AS FIRES CAN HAPPEN. The laser affects your material by heating it. Your job can change in seconds with the accumulation of heat in your material. Never leave the room while the laser is in operation. If you leave the laser unattended, your access to the laser cutter will be permanently revoked.<br />
* Use reasonable speed/power settings. Start with the recommended speed/power settings for your material. Be patient - resist the temptation to crank the power and speed to rush through your job. This can cause fires.<br />
** There will be some light when material is cut. This light at the point of lasing may be ok as long as it stays with the motion of the laser. If a flame appears while the laser is in operation, stop your job and try again with lower heat settings.<br />
* Know where the fire extinguisher is in case of a fire. The ONLY fire extinguisher that should be used on the laser cutter is the halotron extinguisher right next to the laser cutter. Other fire extinguishers are corrosive and will ruin the machine.<br />
<br />
How to put out a fire:<br />
* Push the estop. (To turn the machine back on after the estop was hit, you need to switch the power switch on the right hand side of the machine off and on again).<br />
* Open the lid.<br />
* If it's small, try and blow it out.<br />
* If it's smallish, try and squirt it out with the water squirt bottle sitting on the right hand side of the machine.<br />
* If that doesn't work, use the halotron fire extinguisher to the right of the laser cutter. Aim it at the base of the flame.<br />
<br />
=== Damage to eyes and skin ===<br />
The laser beam can instantly and permanently blind you. It can also burn your skin.<br />
* you don't ever want any part of your body in contact with the beam.<br />
* As long as the door is closed, you're safe to look at the laser. There are interlocks on the door that help ensure the laser never operates with the doors open. Don't disable them.<br />
<br />
=== Crushing danger ===<br />
<br />
The laser cutter is a dumb machine. It doesn't care whether your hand is in the way when it's moving. The head can move when the door is open. Always make sure everyone's hands are out of the machine before moving the head.<br />
<br />
Also be very careful not to crash the head into other parts of the machine. Be very careful when moving the z-axis to not crash the head into the bed, and to not move the z-axis if the focus length acrylic circle is under the lens.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Fumes ===<br />
The laser cutter burns the things it's cutting, which can create toxic fumes.<br />
* ONLY CUT APPROVED MATERIALS. Cutting nonapproved materials can release really toxic gases, including chlorine and cyanide. These are really bad for humans, as well as being very damaging to the laser cutter.<br />
* The ventilation fan should always be running if the laser cutter is on, even if it's not cutting. It's currently wired such that you can't turn on the laser cutter without the fan turning on, but please make sure it's running.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Care of the machine ==<br />
<br />
'''Please don't perform any maintenance on the machine (including cleaning lenses/mirrors or aligning mirrors) unless you've specifically trained on it.'''<br />
<br />
The laser cutter is finely calibrated piece of machinery. Please close the lid gently, and do not push or jar the machine at any time. Do not lean or press on the tray - it's fragile, and needs to be perfectly flat for the laser cutter to cut properly. If you take the honeycomb bed or slats out, please be ULTRA CAREFUL with them - put them somewhere where they won't get damaged or warped.<br />
<br />
== Paying for your laser time ==<br />
<br />
The laser cutter has parts that wear out over time, which can be quite costly to replace, especially the laser tube. A new tube costs several thousand dollars. Thus, we require people to pay for the time on the laser they use, so we can pay for new parts.<br />
<br />
To figure out how much time your job takes, press the File button, select your file, and then select Work Time from the menu. It will tell you in hours:minutes.seconds.<br />
<br />
Please pay for the cutting time you actually use, even if you end up running your job multiple times.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Workflows ==<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Overall Workflow ===<br />
<br />
This is the overall structure of the workflow. Each part is elaborated below.<br />
<br />
# Laser start up<br />
# Material setup<br />
# Convert file to DXF<br />
# Load file onto the machine<br />
# Dry run<br />
# Cut/Engrave<br />
# Laser shut down<br />
# Cleanup<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Laser start up ===<br />
<br />
# Turn on power and ensure that the fan and chiller are running<br />
# Move the head as far forward and right as possible, close to the controls<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Material setup ===<br />
<br />
# Clean the bed of any scraps that may be on it<br />
# Move the cut head as far forward and right as possible (near the controls)<br />
# Raise the laser head as far up as possible<br />
# Raise the bed to the desired height, watching the laser head to avoid crashes<br />
# Move the laser head as far back and right as possible<br />
# Place material on the bed<br />
# Focus the laser (do at least for each distinct thickness, optimally do for each piece of material)<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Focusing the laser ===<br />
<br />
Noisebridge has acryllic disks cut to various thicknesses that can be used to accurately focus the laser. Specifically the laser head needs to be locked to 8mm above the surface of the material you're cutting.<br />
<br />
# Place the material on the cut bed<br />
# Move the cut head to the center of the area to cut, watching the laser head to avoid crashes w/ material<br />
# Loosen the wing nut and raise the head all the way up<br />
# Place the focusing discs on the material under the head<br />
# Lower the head until it just touches the focusing disc (8mm above material)<br />
# Lock the head in place (tighten the wing nut)<br />
# Remove the focusing discs<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Convert an image in Inkscape to a DXF file ===<br />
<br />
# Load the image into Inkscape<br />
# Set the different cut paths to different colors (for controlling settings, etc.)<br />
# Save as a DXF. Be sure to make the units be millimeters so that importing later will correctly scale the image.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Debugging DXF Problems ===<br />
<br />
Sometimes exporting to DXF introduces bizarre extra lines. There are two things to try to debug. The first is to convert objects to paths:<br />
<br />
# Select all the problematic shapes<br />
# Path > Object to Path<br />
<br />
If this fails to resolve the issue, you can try a more radical solution which will eliminate all bezier paths entirely:<br />
<br />
# Select all the problematic shapes<br />
# Convert bezier paths to lines (Extensions > Modify Path > Flatten Bezier).<br />
<br />
Flatness 0.5 is good to start with. Smaller = better approximation of the curves. A lower flatness number takes more time to compute, but also produces a better approximation to the curve.<br />
<br />
Sometimes need to select the path's directly with the path tool (but not the points!).<br />
<br />
=== Loading into the laser cutter software ===<br />
<br />
# Import the file with File > Import<br />
# Resize as needed, tho if the file was exported w/ millimeter units, the software should also import the image with the correct size.<br />
# Set the cut order:<br />
##* EITHER Set the cut order to inside-out (Handle > Cut optimize > Inside to outside)<br />
##* OR Manually specify cut order with the Set cut property tool (Edit > Set cutting property). See below for more details.<br />
# Set the speed and power for the layers as necessary.<br />
# Optionally, simulate the cutting/engraving process.<br />
# Download to the machine (Laser Work panel on the bottom right).<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Manually specifying cut order ===<br />
<br />
In the Set cutting property window (Edit > Set cutting property), you can manually re-order the cut paths. In the window, you'll see an image of the workpiece, and to its right, two lists of paths. When you first open the window, all of the cut paths are in the left. If you select a path (either in the image or in the list) and click the button labeled ">>", this path will be transferred to the end of the right list of paths. If you click ">>>", all of the paths in the left list will be moved to the end of the right list (preserving order). Similarly, clicking "<<<" will move the right list to the end of the left list. If you select a cut path in the right list, the up and down arrow buttons will reorder that path in the chosen direction.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Loading speed and power settings from library ===<br />
<br />
# In the top right panel, double click the layer of interest<br />
# Click "Load parameters from library"<br />
# Select the library item<br />
# Click "Load"<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Saving power and speed settings to library ===<br />
<br />
# In the top right panel, double click the layer of interest<br />
# Make sure the layer is set to the desired parameters<br />
# Click "Load parameters from library"<br />
# Click "Save as"<br />
# Enter a name and optionally some notes<br />
# Click "Ok"<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Simulation ===<br />
<br />
# Open the simulation window with either Edit > Preview or the toolbar button labelled with a monitor.<br />
# Click the Simulation button in the right panel<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Cutting ===<br />
<br />
# Select the file to use using the File button<br />
# Move the head to the initial guess origin with the arrow buttons<br />
# Test the frame with the Frame button adjust origin as necessary<br />
# Set the origin by pressing Origin<br />
# Test the cut by turning the laser power off and pressing the Start/Pause button<br />
# Turn the laser power on<br />
# Cut by pressing the Start/Pause button<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Engraving ===<br />
<br />
TODO<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Cancel a cut/dry run ===<br />
<br />
# Pause with the Start/Pause button<br />
# Cancel and move back to the origin with the Esc button<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Laser shut down ===<br />
<br />
# Move the head as far forward and right as possible (near the controls)<br />
# Raise the laser head as far up as possible<br />
# Let the fan run for a little bit (~30 seconds)<br />
# Turn the power off<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Cleanup ===<br />
<br />
# Remove pieces of material scrap left on the bed<br />
# Open the tray door on the front bottom and empty the scraps left there<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Calculating work time ===<br />
<br />
On the computer:<br />
<br />
* Open the simulation window (see above). Total work time and time of laser use are displayed in the top right. Donations should be calculated by laser use, not total work time.<br />
<br />
On the machine:<br />
<br />
* Whole file: File > Select file > Right Arrow > Work Time > Enter<br />
* Current run: Pause the cut, then check time at the bottom right<br />
<br />
== Maintenance==<br />
<br />
'''Please don't perform any maintenance on the machine (including cleaning lenses/mirrors or aligning mirrors) unless you've specifically trained on it.'''<br />
<br />
* TEMP note: some check(s) may be included outside of maintenance so a user can trigger a maintenance notification<br />
* DON'T - let someone who has been trained do it<br />
* how to tell if the lens is dirty (or getting old?)<br />
* how to tell if the mirrors are dirty<br />
** Cleaning the mirrors<br />
*** ethanol solution? isopropanol? - see manual.<br />
*** fabric must be non scratch - see manual.<br />
* Checking and performing mirror alignment<br />
** Safety - remove gratings and any other reflective surfaces before any maintenance that requires disabling the door sensors.<br />
** TEMP note: in restrospect the alignment was a very dangerous situation. mirror paths were not checked before powering on the laser with the door open with many people around. (or maybe nigel is just insanely good at configuring mirrors... still... reddit.com/r/OSHA)<br />
** Tape test - mirrors 1,2,3 and their corresponding exits. Slightly propped laser tube.<br />
** vertical/horizontal alignment by brass dial.<br />
* Checking chiller tank water volume<br />
** Chiller alarm - what does it mean<br />
** Checking tank water volume<br />
** Refilling tank water<br />
* Cleaning the bed and waste drawer (this section probably should be moved to usage)<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Signs:<br />
* <strike>Don't open front/back passthrough doors (for now)</strike><br />
* <strike>Fire extinguishers - which to use for what fire</strike><br />
* Approved materials<br />
* <strike>careful when raising bed, dont crash into laser head</strike><br />
* move laser head out of the way before opening the lid<br />
* power off the laser before opening the lid ???<br />
* <strike>watch the laser while it is cutting</strike><br />
<br />
<br />
Todos:<br />
* <strike>Move the machine further away from the right wall so we can get to the power switch.</strike><br />
* <strike>label the water squirt bottle as for fires and not to remove</strike><br />
* acquire piece of copper for chlorine materials test<br />
* acquire vinyl record for testing<br />
* acquire propane bottle and nozzle<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
material notes<br />
* material selection - approved materials list<br />
** nothing that generates hazerdous fumes, particularly chlorine/formeldahyde<br />
** no aluminum or other metals (?? ryan claims these can be safely engraved in this machine)<br />
** nothing reflective<br />
** size constraints<br />
* laser configuration - power, speed<br />
** table of recommmended settings for various materials<br />
<br />
How to get a new/novel material approved<br />
* consensus process<br />
* chlorine test<br />
<br />
== Chlorine material test ==<br />
<br />
Before you cut any new material you *must* check that it is safe to cut; specifically that it will not produce chlorine gas when it is burned by the cutting laser. Chlorine is extremely dangerous in its gaseous form and so must be avoided at all costs. <br />
<br />
To test a new material, you'll need a sample of the material, a small copper rod (about the thickness of a coat hanger), a pliars, and a handheld propane torch. We'll test for the presence of chlorine by burning a sample of the material in a high temperature propane flame and observe the visible emission spectra. Chrlorine produces a bright green light when burned, and so will be very obvious when you're testing your material.<br />
<br />
First, light the propane torch and set it to rest upright on a stable surface. Taking the pliar, hold the piece of copper in the blue part of the flame to heat it. As the copper begins to heat sufficiently it'll cause the flame to turn an orange color. A consistent orange color means that the copper has no residue material on its surface and so is clean enough to use as a test. If you observe non-orange flames when you burn the copper you may need to clean in further, either by waiting for the excess material to burn off, or by scrubbing the surface of the copper when it has cooled.<br />
<br />
Once the copper is burning, take the hot copper and melt a sample of the new material onto it. For example if you were testing a new form of plastic you can roll the hot copper rod on the material, melting some of it onto the copper rod's surface.<br />
<br />
With this done, place the copper rod back into the blue part of the flame. Observe the colors of the emission spectra from the new material burning. If you observe a bright green color, then the material contains chlorine and thus *must not* be burned further. Ventilate your surrounding area to avoid breathing it in. If you observe no green color as you burn your material sample, then the material is likely safe to use with the laser cutter.<br />
<br />
Here is a video example by Zach in NYCResistor with a known good and known bad material: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D0_4NLmeSTI<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== BANNED MATERIALS (NEVER USE THESE) ==<br />
<br />
These materials '''must not be used in the laser cutter'''. <br />
<br />
{|border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"<br />
|-<br />
! colspan="10" bgcolor="#ccc" | Bad materials<br />
|-<br />
! Material<br />
! Notes<br />
|-<br />
| PVC || Contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br />
|-<br />
| Vinyl || Most contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br />
|- <br />
| PVC Foams || Most contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br />
|- <br />
| Foam Core || Usually made with PVC which is harmful as listed above. <br />
|- <br />
| Styrofoam || Can cause flash fires<br />
|-<br />
| Polycarbonate or PETG || Does not cut. TAP plastics sells both this and acrylic. '''Be sure to read your labels when purchasing material'''. Lexan is the trade name for Polycarbonate, while Plexiglass is the trade name for acrylic.<br />
|- <br />
| ABS || Gives of hydrogen cyanide<br />
|- <br />
| Fiberglass ||<br />
|- <br />
| Metals || Cannot be etched by this type of laser. Also is harmful as the reflective surface may cause the laser to be reflected back up to the head, damaging it. If someone claims to be etching metal using this type of laser then they are etching a metal with a plastic coating, anodized surface, or some other etchable surface on top.<br />
<br />
|}<br />
<br />
== Known good materials ==<br />
<br />
These materials are known to be ok for use with the laser cutter. The speed and power of the laser cutter will need to be set appropriately for the material and thickness in use. Below is a table showing the suggested settings when cutting or etching them.<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" <br />
|-<br />
! colspan="10" bgcolor="#cccccc" | Cardboards/Papers<br />
|-<br />
! rowspan="2" | Material<br />
! colspan="3" | Engraving <br />
! colspan="2" | Cutting<br />
! colspan="2" | Scoring<br />
! rowspan="1" | Notes<br />
|-<br />
! Speed (mm/s) !! Power !! DPI !! Speed !! Power !! Speed !! Power ||<br />
|-|-|-<br />
| 4mm corregated cardboard || || || || 50 mm/s || 15 || 50 mm/s || 5 || Minimum line separation at 50/15 = 1/2mm (see reference cuts for more details)<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
== Sourcing Material ==<br />
<br />
In general, you can get stuff form Amazon, but you have to wait for shipping.<br />
<br />
For plastics: [http://www.google.com/maps/place/TAP+Plastics/@37.7711648,-122.4207603,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f7e27351bb079:0x7e3610d7dc178b10!8m2!3d37.7711648!4d-122.4185663 Tap Plastics] is nearby Noisebridge, but is expensive, [http://eplastics.com eplastics] is cheaper but you need to wait for shipping, and [https://www.google.com/maps/place/Mr.+Plastics/@37.7091519,-122.1546962,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f8fe7938349a3:0xafcb2526326faccd!8m2!3d37.7091519!4d-122.1525022 Mr. Plastics] is cheapest but is in San Leandro.<br />
<br />
For woods: [http://www.google.com/maps/place/Discount+Builders+Supply/@37.7704879,-122.4191311,15z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0x3c0d6c6e25a89652?sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjV87WU-JzOAhUI6WMKHSPABOUQ_BIIeTAK Discount Builder Supply] is nearby.</div>Scottyhttps://www.noisebridge.net/index.php?title=Laser_Manual&diff=53042Laser Manual2016-08-03T01:49:24Z<p>Scotty: /* Maintenance */</p>
<hr />
<div>== Contact list ==<br />
<br />
=== Trainers ===<br />
<br />
Scotty Allen (@scotty on slack)<br />
Darryl (@augur on slack)<br />
Ruth Grace (@ruthgrace on slack)<br />
Kyle (@kylesewing on slack)<br />
<br />
== Who can use the laser cutter ==<br />
<br />
Only people who have been trained by an official trainer can use the laser cutter, in order to prevent unintended damage to the machine, operator, and Noisebridge.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== How to get trained to use the laser cutter ==<br />
<br />
# Ask a trainer if they will train you<br />
# Schedule a time with the trainer<br />
# Get trained<br />
# Get your name on the list of users before the first time you use the machine<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
* maintaining a verifiable list of users<br />
** users can be found at: URL<br />
<br />
* maintaining a verifiable list of safety? trainers<br />
** trainers can be found at: URL<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Basic Safety ==<br />
The laser cutter is generally a very safe machine to use. However, as with all industrial machines, you need to treat it with respect. The main safety concerns are creating fires, hurting your eyes or skin, getting crushed by the machine, and creating toxic fumes.<br />
<br />
The basics:<br />
* ALWAYS WATCH YOUR WORK!<br />
* OPEN THE LID if you see a fire<br />
* BLOW IT OUT if the fire keeps burning<br />
* DON'T CUT UNAPPROVED MATERIALS!<br />
<br />
=== Fire ===<br />
<br />
You can really hurt yourself or burn the building down with this machine. If you follow the safety rules, the chances of you causing this is close to zero. Some materials are very flammable on the laser cutter, and shouldn't be cut. Never cut an unapproved material, or a material that you don't know what it is. A laser beam can also initiate a fire if the speed of the cut is too slow or the laser power is set too high.<br />
<br />
<br />
Ways to not cause fires:<br />
* ALWAYS WATCH THE LASER CUTTER WHENEVER IT IS CUTTING AS FIRES CAN HAPPEN. The laser affects your material by heating it. Your job can change in seconds with the accumulation of heat in your material. Never leave the room while the laser is in operation. If you leave the laser unattended, your access to the laser cutter will be permanently revoked.<br />
* Use reasonable speed/power settings. Start with the recommended speed/power settings for your material. Be patient - resist the temptation to crank the power and speed to rush through your job. This can cause fires.<br />
** There will be some light when material is cut. This light at the point of lasing may be ok as long as it stays with the motion of the laser. If a flame appears while the laser is in operation, stop your job and try again with lower heat settings.<br />
* Know where the fire extinguisher is in case of a fire. The ONLY fire extinguisher that should be used on the laser cutter is the halotron extinguisher right next to the laser cutter. Other fire extinguishers are corrosive and will ruin the machine.<br />
<br />
How to put out a fire:<br />
* Push the estop. (To turn the machine back on after the estop was hit, you need to switch the power switch on the right hand side of the machine off and on again).<br />
* Open the lid.<br />
* If it's small, try and blow it out.<br />
* If it's smallish, try and squirt it out with the water squirt bottle sitting on the right hand side of the machine.<br />
* If that doesn't work, use the halotron fire extinguisher to the right of the laser cutter. Aim it at the base of the flame.<br />
<br />
=== Damage to eyes and skin ===<br />
The laser beam can instantly and permanently blind you. It can also burn your skin.<br />
* you don't ever want any part of your body in contact with the beam.<br />
* As long as the door is closed, you're safe to look at the laser. There are interlocks on the door that help ensure the laser never operates with the doors open. Don't disable them.<br />
<br />
=== Crushing danger ===<br />
<br />
The laser cutter is a dumb machine. It doesn't care whether your hand is in the way when it's moving. The head can move when the door is open. Always make sure everyone's hands are out of the machine before moving the head.<br />
<br />
Also be very careful not to crash the head into other parts of the machine. Be very careful when moving the z-axis to not crash the head into the bed, and to not move the z-axis if the focus length acrylic circle is under the lens.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Fumes ===<br />
The laser cutter burns the things it's cutting, which can create toxic fumes.<br />
* ONLY CUT APPROVED MATERIALS. Cutting nonapproved materials can release really toxic gases, including chlorine and cyanide. These are really bad for humans, as well as being very damaging to the laser cutter.<br />
* The ventilation fan should always be running if the laser cutter is on, even if it's not cutting. It's currently wired such that you can't turn on the laser cutter without the fan turning on, but please make sure it's running.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Care of the machine ==<br />
<br />
<br />
The laser cutter is finely calibrated piece of machinery. Please close the lid gently, and do not push or jar the machine at any time. Do not lean or press on the tray - it's fragile, and needs to be perfectly flat for the laser cutter to cut properly. If you take the honeycomb bed or slats out, please be ULTRA CAREFUL with them - put them somewhere where they won't get damaged or warped.<br />
<br />
Please don't perform any maintenance on the machine (including cleaning lenses/mirrors or aligning mirrors) unless you've specifically trained on it.<br />
<br />
== Paying for your laser time ==<br />
<br />
The laser cutter has parts that wear out over time, which can be quite costly to replace, especially the laser tube. A new tube costs several thousand dollars. Thus, we require people to pay for the time on the laser they use, so we can pay for new parts.<br />
<br />
To figure out how much time your job takes, press the File button, select your file, and then select Work Time from the menu. It will tell you in hours:minutes.seconds.<br />
<br />
Please pay for the cutting time you actually use, even if you end up running your job multiple times.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Workflows ==<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Overall Workflow ===<br />
<br />
This is the overall structure of the workflow. Each part is elaborated below.<br />
<br />
# Laser start up<br />
# Material setup<br />
# Convert file to DXF<br />
# Load file onto the machine<br />
# Dry run<br />
# Cut/Engrave<br />
# Laser shut down<br />
# Cleanup<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Laser start up ===<br />
<br />
# Turn on power and ensure that the fan and chiller are running<br />
# Move the head as far forward and right as possible, close to the controls<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Material setup ===<br />
<br />
# Clean the bed of any scraps that may be on it<br />
# Move the cut head as far forward and right as possible (near the controls)<br />
# Raise the laser head as far up as possible<br />
# Raise the bed to the desired height, watching the laser head to avoid crashes<br />
# Move the laser head as far back and right as possible<br />
# Place material on the bed<br />
# Focus the laser (do at least for each distinct thickness, optimally do for each piece of material)<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Focusing the laser ===<br />
<br />
Noisebridge has acryllic disks cut to various thicknesses that can be used to accurately focus the laser. Specifically the laser head needs to be locked to 8mm above the surface of the material you're cutting.<br />
<br />
# Place the material on the cut bed<br />
# Move the cut head to the center of the area to cut, watching the laser head to avoid crashes w/ material<br />
# Loosen the wing nut and raise the head all the way up<br />
# Place the focusing discs on the material under the head<br />
# Lower the head until it just touches the focusing disc (8mm above material)<br />
# Lock the head in place (tighten the wing nut)<br />
# Remove the focusing discs<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Convert an image in Inkscape to a DXF file ===<br />
<br />
# Load the image into Inkscape<br />
# Set the different cut paths to different colors (for controlling settings, etc.)<br />
# Save as a DXF. Be sure to make the units be millimeters so that importing later will correctly scale the image.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Debugging DXF Problems ===<br />
<br />
Sometimes exporting to DXF introduces bizarre extra lines. There are two things to try to debug. The first is to convert objects to paths:<br />
<br />
# Select all the problematic shapes<br />
# Path > Object to Path<br />
<br />
If this fails to resolve the issue, you can try a more radical solution which will eliminate all bezier paths entirely:<br />
<br />
# Select all the problematic shapes<br />
# Convert bezier paths to lines (Extensions > Modify Path > Flatten Bezier).<br />
<br />
Flatness 0.5 is good to start with. Smaller = better approximation of the curves. A lower flatness number takes more time to compute, but also produces a better approximation to the curve.<br />
<br />
Sometimes need to select the path's directly with the path tool (but not the points!).<br />
<br />
=== Loading into the laser cutter software ===<br />
<br />
# Import the file with File > Import<br />
# Resize as needed, tho if the file was exported w/ millimeter units, the software should also import the image with the correct size.<br />
# Set the cut order:<br />
##* EITHER Set the cut order to inside-out (Handle > Cut optimize > Inside to outside)<br />
##* OR Manually specify cut order with the Set cut property tool (Edit > Set cutting property). See below for more details.<br />
# Set the speed and power for the layers as necessary.<br />
# Optionally, simulate the cutting/engraving process.<br />
# Download to the machine (Laser Work panel on the bottom right).<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Manually specifying cut order ===<br />
<br />
In the Set cutting property window (Edit > Set cutting property), you can manually re-order the cut paths. In the window, you'll see an image of the workpiece, and to its right, two lists of paths. When you first open the window, all of the cut paths are in the left. If you select a path (either in the image or in the list) and click the button labeled ">>", this path will be transferred to the end of the right list of paths. If you click ">>>", all of the paths in the left list will be moved to the end of the right list (preserving order). Similarly, clicking "<<<" will move the right list to the end of the left list. If you select a cut path in the right list, the up and down arrow buttons will reorder that path in the chosen direction.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Loading speed and power settings from library ===<br />
<br />
# In the top right panel, double click the layer of interest<br />
# Click "Load parameters from library"<br />
# Select the library item<br />
# Click "Load"<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Saving power and speed settings to library ===<br />
<br />
# In the top right panel, double click the layer of interest<br />
# Make sure the layer is set to the desired parameters<br />
# Click "Load parameters from library"<br />
# Click "Save as"<br />
# Enter a name and optionally some notes<br />
# Click "Ok"<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Simulation ===<br />
<br />
# Open the simulation window with either Edit > Preview or the toolbar button labelled with a monitor.<br />
# Click the Simulation button in the right panel<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Cutting ===<br />
<br />
# Select the file to use using the File button<br />
# Move the head to the initial guess origin with the arrow buttons<br />
# Test the frame with the Frame button adjust origin as necessary<br />
# Set the origin by pressing Origin<br />
# Test the cut by turning the laser power off and pressing the Start/Pause button<br />
# Turn the laser power on<br />
# Cut by pressing the Start/Pause button<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Engraving ===<br />
<br />
TODO<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Cancel a cut/dry run ===<br />
<br />
# Pause with the Start/Pause button<br />
# Cancel and move back to the origin with the Esc button<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Laser shut down ===<br />
<br />
# Move the head as far forward and right as possible (near the controls)<br />
# Raise the laser head as far up as possible<br />
# Let the fan run for a little bit (~30 seconds)<br />
# Turn the power off<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Cleanup ===<br />
<br />
# Remove pieces of material scrap left on the bed<br />
# Open the tray door on the front bottom and empty the scraps left there<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Calculating work time ===<br />
<br />
On the computer:<br />
<br />
* Open the simulation window (see above). Total work time and time of laser use are displayed in the top right. Donations should be calculated by laser use, not total work time.<br />
<br />
On the machine:<br />
<br />
* Whole file: File > Select file > Right Arrow > Work Time > Enter<br />
* Current run: Pause the cut, then check time at the bottom right<br />
<br />
== Maintenance==<br />
<br />
'''Please don't perform any maintenance on the machine (including cleaning lenses/mirrors or aligning mirrors) unless you've specifically trained on it.'''<br />
<br />
* TEMP note: some check(s) may be included outside of maintenance so a user can trigger a maintenance notification<br />
* DON'T - let someone who has been trained do it<br />
* how to tell if the lens is dirty (or getting old?)<br />
* how to tell if the mirrors are dirty<br />
** Cleaning the mirrors<br />
*** ethanol solution? isopropanol? - see manual.<br />
*** fabric must be non scratch - see manual.<br />
* Checking and performing mirror alignment<br />
** Safety - remove gratings and any other reflective surfaces before any maintenance that requires disabling the door sensors.<br />
** TEMP note: in restrospect the alignment was a very dangerous situation. mirror paths were not checked before powering on the laser with the door open with many people around. (or maybe nigel is just insanely good at configuring mirrors... still... reddit.com/r/OSHA)<br />
** Tape test - mirrors 1,2,3 and their corresponding exits. Slightly propped laser tube.<br />
** vertical/horizontal alignment by brass dial.<br />
* Checking chiller tank water volume<br />
** Chiller alarm - what does it mean<br />
** Checking tank water volume<br />
** Refilling tank water<br />
* Cleaning the bed and waste drawer (this section probably should be moved to usage)<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Signs:<br />
* <strike>Don't open front/back passthrough doors (for now)</strike><br />
* <strike>Fire extinguishers - which to use for what fire</strike><br />
* Approved materials<br />
* <strike>careful when raising bed, dont crash into laser head</strike><br />
* move laser head out of the way before opening the lid<br />
* power off the laser before opening the lid ???<br />
* <strike>watch the laser while it is cutting</strike><br />
<br />
<br />
Todos:<br />
* <strike>Move the machine further away from the right wall so we can get to the power switch.</strike><br />
* <strike>label the water squirt bottle as for fires and not to remove</strike><br />
* acquire piece of copper for chlorine materials test<br />
* acquire vinyl record for testing<br />
* acquire propane bottle and nozzle<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
material notes<br />
* material selection - approved materials list<br />
** nothing that generates hazerdous fumes, particularly chlorine/formeldahyde<br />
** no aluminum or other metals (?? ryan claims these can be safely engraved in this machine)<br />
** nothing reflective<br />
** size constraints<br />
* laser configuration - power, speed<br />
** table of recommmended settings for various materials<br />
<br />
How to get a new/novel material approved<br />
* consensus process<br />
* chlorine test<br />
<br />
== Chlorine material test ==<br />
<br />
Before you cut any new material you *must* check that it is safe to cut; specifically that it will not produce chlorine gas when it is burned by the cutting laser. Chlorine is extremely dangerous in its gaseous form and so must be avoided at all costs. <br />
<br />
To test a new material, you'll need a sample of the material, a small copper rod (about the thickness of a coat hanger), a pliars, and a handheld propane torch. We'll test for the presence of chlorine by burning a sample of the material in a high temperature propane flame and observe the visible emission spectra. Chrlorine produces a bright green light when burned, and so will be very obvious when you're testing your material.<br />
<br />
First, light the propane torch and set it to rest upright on a stable surface. Taking the pliar, hold the piece of copper in the blue part of the flame to heat it. As the copper begins to heat sufficiently it'll cause the flame to turn an orange color. A consistent orange color means that the copper has no residue material on its surface and so is clean enough to use as a test. If you observe non-orange flames when you burn the copper you may need to clean in further, either by waiting for the excess material to burn off, or by scrubbing the surface of the copper when it has cooled.<br />
<br />
Once the copper is burning, take the hot copper and melt a sample of the new material onto it. For example if you were testing a new form of plastic you can roll the hot copper rod on the material, melting some of it onto the copper rod's surface.<br />
<br />
With this done, place the copper rod back into the blue part of the flame. Observe the colors of the emission spectra from the new material burning. If you observe a bright green color, then the material contains chlorine and thus *must not* be burned further. Ventilate your surrounding area to avoid breathing it in. If you observe no green color as you burn your material sample, then the material is likely safe to use with the laser cutter.<br />
<br />
Here is a video example by Zach in NYCResistor with a known good and known bad material: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D0_4NLmeSTI<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== BANNED MATERIALS (NEVER USE THESE) ==<br />
<br />
These materials '''must not be used in the laser cutter'''. <br />
<br />
{|border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"<br />
|-<br />
! colspan="10" bgcolor="#ccc" | Bad materials<br />
|-<br />
! Material<br />
! Notes<br />
|-<br />
| PVC || Contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br />
|-<br />
| Vinyl || Most contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br />
|- <br />
| PVC Foams || Most contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.<br />
|- <br />
| Foam Core || Usually made with PVC which is harmful as listed above. <br />
|- <br />
| Styrofoam || Can cause flash fires<br />
|-<br />
| Polycarbonate or PETG || Does not cut. TAP plastics sells both this and acrylic. '''Be sure to read your labels when purchasing material'''. Lexan is the trade name for Polycarbonate, while Plexiglass is the trade name for acrylic.<br />
|- <br />
| ABS || Gives of hydrogen cyanide<br />
|- <br />
| Fiberglass ||<br />
|- <br />
| Metals || Cannot be etched by this type of laser. Also is harmful as the reflective surface may cause the laser to be reflected back up to the head, damaging it. If someone claims to be etching metal using this type of laser then they are etching a metal with a plastic coating, anodized surface, or some other etchable surface on top.<br />
<br />
|}<br />
<br />
== Known good materials ==<br />
<br />
These materials are known to be ok for use with the laser cutter. The speed and power of the laser cutter will need to be set appropriately for the material and thickness in use. Below is a table showing the suggested settings when cutting or etching them.<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" <br />
|-<br />
! colspan="10" bgcolor="#cccccc" | Cardboards/Papers<br />
|-<br />
! rowspan="2" | Material<br />
! colspan="3" | Engraving <br />
! colspan="2" | Cutting<br />
! colspan="2" | Scoring<br />
! rowspan="1" | Notes<br />
|-<br />
! Speed (mm/s) !! Power !! DPI !! Speed !! Power !! Speed !! Power ||<br />
|-|-|-<br />
| 4mm corregated cardboard || || || || 50 mm/s || 15 || 50 mm/s || 5 || Minimum line separation at 50/15 = 1/2mm (see reference cuts for more details)<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
== Sourcing Material ==<br />
<br />
In general, you can get stuff form Amazon, but you have to wait for shipping.<br />
<br />
For plastics: [http://www.google.com/maps/place/TAP+Plastics/@37.7711648,-122.4207603,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f7e27351bb079:0x7e3610d7dc178b10!8m2!3d37.7711648!4d-122.4185663 Tap Plastics] is nearby Noisebridge, but is expensive, [http://eplastics.com eplastics] is cheaper but you need to wait for shipping, and [https://www.google.com/maps/place/Mr.+Plastics/@37.7091519,-122.1546962,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f8fe7938349a3:0xafcb2526326faccd!8m2!3d37.7091519!4d-122.1525022 Mr. Plastics] is cheapest but is in San Leandro.<br />
<br />
For woods: [http://www.google.com/maps/place/Discount+Builders+Supply/@37.7704879,-122.4191311,15z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0x3c0d6c6e25a89652?sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjV87WU-JzOAhUI6WMKHSPABOUQ_BIIeTAK Discount Builder Supply] is nearby.</div>Scotty