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<div style="font-size:24px;">Noisebridge's 3D printing station is one of our Fabrication [[Resources]].</div>
{{3dprinting}}
{{blackbox}}[[File:Capp Printer Room.jpg|300px|right]] You are in the Printshop room of Noisebridge. It is sound insulated a bit from the rest of Noisebridge by its walls and 2 windowed doors, one leading out towards the [[Entrance]] and one leading in to the [[Hackitorium]].


You see myriad 3D printers and large format 2D printers as well.


[[File:3DPrinters100dpi.fw.png|300px|right]]
'''EXITS:''' [[Front]], [[Print Shop]], [[2D Paper Printer]], [[Hackitorium]]
{{cursorboxend}}
{{headerbox}}
<font size=5>The 3D printing station is one of Noisebridge's [[Fabrication]] [[Resources]].</font>
 
* '''CHANNELS:''' We have a #3dprinting channel on [[Slack]].
* '''RESOURCES:''' We have a number of 3D printers documented below which are available for use.
* '''EVENTS:''' We used to have weekly [[Replicator Wednesday]]. Want to restart it? Volunteer to make them happen again!
* '''NOTES:''' When logging problems or maintenance, edit so the date descends!
* '''MAINTAINERS:''' [[User:rugyoga|rugyoga]], [[User:MJO|Max]]
{{boxend}}
{{recruiting}}


= PRINTERS WE HAVE =
= PRINTERS WE HAVE =


[[File:Capp_Printer_Room.jpg|800px]]


== Monoprice Miniprinters ==
== Printers and Statuses ==
{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="6"| Printers
|-
! Number
! Name
! Type
! Status
|-
| [[#P1 Agent Smith| P1]]
| Agent Smith
| [[#Creality Ender 3]]
| Working
|-
| [[#P2 Neo| P2]]
| Neo
| [[#Creality Ender 3]]
| Working
|-
| [[#P3 Harold | P3]]
| Harold
| [[#Creality CR-10S]]
| Not Working
|-
| [[#P4 Trinity | P4]]
| Trinity
| [[#Creality Ender 3]]
| Working
|-
| [[#P5 Cricket | P5]]
| Cricket
| [[#Monoprice MP Select Mini]]
| Working
|-
| [[#P6 Peter | P6]]
| Peter
| [[#Monoprice MP Select Mini]]
| Working
|-
| [[#P7 Demosthenes | P7]]
| Demosthenes
| [[#Creality CR-10 Mini]]
| Working
|-
| [[#P8 Locke | P8]]
| Locke
| [[#Creality CR-10]]
| Not Working
|-
| [[#P9 Bertha| P9]]
| Bertha
| [[#Hypercube]]
| Unknown
|-
| [[#P10 Resin | P10]]
| Resin
| [[#Anycubic Photon Mono X]]
| New
|}


[[File:Unnamed.jpg|400px]]
== Printer Details and Maintenance Log ==
=== P1 Agent Smith===
* Number: P1
* Name: Agent Smith
* Type: [[#Creality Ender 3]]
* Location: Left shelving unit, middle shelf, right side
* Status: Working
*
{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="6"|Log
|-
! Date
! User
! Description


To print your file on the Monoprice Miniprinters, you can do it one of two ways. [http://downloads.monoprice.com/files/manuals/15365_Manual_160415.pdf Full instruction manual is available].
|-
|2023/02/12
| @rugyoga
| Installed PEI build plate
|-


# Use the THREED 3D Printer Terminal.
|2023/02/12
# Install the Slic3r software on your own computer.
| @rugyoga
| Installed Biqu H2 extruder
|-
|}


If you are new to 3D printing, you can start by printing our Noisebridge symbol fridge magnet which you can [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:8751 download from Thingiverse].
=== P2 Neo ===
* Number: P2
* Name: Neo
* Type: [[#Creality Ender 3]]
* Location: left shelving unit, bottom shelf, left side
* Status: Working
{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="6"|Log
|-
! Date
! User
! Description
|-
|2023/02/12
| @rugyoga
| Installed Biqu H2 extruder
|-
|2022/08/28
| @rugyoga
| Turned on Linear Advance and calibrated PLA (k factor: 0.06).
|-
|2022/08/28
| @rugyoga
| Upgraded Marlin firmware to 2.0.9.5
|-
|2022/08/21
| @rugyoga
| Ran extruder estep calibration. Result: 140.5
|-
|2022/08/14
| @rugyoga
| Successfully printed a 20 mm calibration cube.
|-
|2022/08/14
| @rugyoga
| Set extruder esteps to 130 per MicroSwiss doc.
|-
|2022/08/14
| @rugyoga
| Upgraded motherboard to 32 bit BTT SKR v2. (https://www.amzn.com/B0882QGFZR)
|-
|2022/08/14
| @rugyoga
| Replaced worn wiring harness.
|-
|2022/08/10
| @rugyoga
| Upgraded Heater to 50W. (https://www.amzn.com/B07SYZ3LGB)
|-
|2022/08/10
| @rugyoga
| Upgraded Thermistor to 300c capable EPCOS. (https://www.amzn.com/B08R3J6GJ3)
|-
|2022/08/10
| @rugyoga
| Added MicroSwiss DirectDrive extruder. (https://www.amzn.com/B08CGN18KJ)
|-
|2022/08/10
| @rugyoga
| Added PEI build plate (https://www.amzn.com/B082PFL8TX)
|-
|2022/08/10
| @rugyoga
| Took home to perform upgrades.
|-
|2022/01/16
| @GiftOfGabe
| Spool broke while taking it off print bed.  Took it home to glue it.
|-
|2022/01/15
| @GiftOfGabe
| Leveled Bed
|-
|}


[[File:Noisebridge_logo.jpg]]
=== P5 Cricket ===
* Number: P5
* Name: Cricket
* Type: [[#Monoprice MP Select Mini]]
* Location: right shelving unit, top shelf, ride side
* Status: Working
{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="6"|Log
|-
! Date
! User
! Description
|-
|2022/01/23
| @GiftOfGabe
| Added print spool and moved to lower shelf.
|-
|2022/01/14
| ?
| Added label saying it works well.
|-
|}


=== Printing on your own computer ===
* Install [http://slic3r.org/ Slicer].
* Download the [https://drive.google.com/file/d/0ByPjSf143rlyNXRLeTFMbWR2NHM/view Monoprice printer configuration file].
* Open Slicer and click File Menu --> Load Config Bundle..
* Select the previously downloaded config file.
* Verify important settings like:
    * Printer Settings tab > bed size: 120mm x 120mm
    * Printer Settings tab > print size: 60mm x 60mm
* Turn your STL file into a GCODE file with the MONOPRICE settings before putting the GCODE onto an SD card and putting it into the monoprice printer.


=== Printing on the Threed ===
=== P6 Peter ===
* Number: P5
* Name: Peter
* Type: [[#Monoprice MP Select Mini]]
* Location: On very top of left shelving unit
* Status: Working
{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="6"|Log
|-
! Date
! User
! Description
|-
|2022/01/16
| @GiftOfGabe
| Fixed extruder tube to hot end connection.
|-
|2022/01/16
| @GiftOfGabe
| Fixed connection between extruder and tube. (Note it will not extrude if connector is too tight.  Tighten nut instead.
|-
|2022/01/16
| @GiftOfGabe
| Added tape to print bed.
|-
|2022/01/16
| @GiftOfGabe
| Printed hotend fan clamp.  It did not stick to the bed on the thin sides. 
|-
|2022/01/15
| @GiftOfGabe
| Attempted Fix, Leveled Bed
|-
|}


1. Open the Slicer app


[[File:00_slicer.PNG]]
=== P7 Demosthenes ===
* Number: P7
* Name: Demosthenes
* Type: [[#Creality CR-10 Mini]]
* Location: On very top of left shelving unit
* Status: Working
{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="6"|Log
|-
! Date
! User
! Description
|-
|2022/01/23
| @GiftOfGabe
| Leveled bed with paper.
|-
|2022/01/14
| ?
| Added label saying it works well.
|-
|}


2. In the slicer window, click Add...
=== P10 Anycubic ===
* Number: P10
* Name: Anycubic
* Type: [[#Photon Mono X Resin]]
* Location: Upstairs by the mural
* Status: New (Leveled and working)
{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="6"|Log
|-
! Date
! User
! Description
! Resin
! Exposure Time
! Curing Time
|-
| 2022/2/28
| Gabriel
| RERF: 0.8 minor failures, 1.2-1.6 high detail
| Basic White Any^3
| 0.8-3s
|-
|}


[[File:01_slicer_window.PNG]]
=== P3 Harold ===
* Number: P3
* Name: Harold
* Type: [[Creality CR-10S]]
* Location: left shelving unit, bottom shelf, right side
* Status: hotend heat sink is striped and cannot connect to feeder tube, SD Card reader will not lock in but it can still cards if most the way in.
{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="6"|Log
|-
! Date
! User
! Description
|-
|2022/01/23
| @GiftOfGabe
| Attempted fix and print.  Extruder tube came out of heatsink.  It appears to be striped.  Looked for other part but may need new hot end.
|}


3. Choose the file you want to print (there is a test file in /Documents/Slic3r/noisebridgelogo2.stl which you can [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:8751 download from Thingiverse])


[[File:03_slicer_add_documents_slicer.PNG]]
=== P4 Trinity ===
* Number: P4
* Name: Trinity
* Type: [[Creality Ender 3]]
* Location: left shelving unit, middle shelf, left side
* Status: Being upgraded
{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="6"|Log
|-
! Date
! User
! Description
|-
|2022/8/27
| @rugyoga
| Replaced its thermistor with 450c capable (https://www.amzn.com/B0888NJ63W)
Marlin changes:
configuration_adv.h: "#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 66"


4. Select the noisebridge logo file or your own.
src/module/thermistor/thermistor_66.h:
{OV(1022), 23},
{OV(1023), 22},
{OV(1024), 19}};
|-
|2022/8/27
| @rugyoga
| Upgraded its hot end with Creality Spider all metal hotend. (https://www.amzn.com/B09QKT5F2B)
|-
|2022/8/27
| @rugyoga
| Upgraded its screen with an SKR TFT35 touch screen. (https://www.amzn.com/B08182XHZZ)
|-
|2022/8/27
| @rugyoga
| Upgraded its motherboard with an SKR Mini v2 32 bit motherboard. (https://www.amzn.com/B0882QGFZR)
|-
|2022/7/26
| @rugyoga
| Replaced its missing build plate with a PEI sheet on a steel plate. (https://www.amzn.com/B07GSJSDWR)
|-
|2022/01/23
| @GiftOfGabe
| Moved paper printer and repositioned. Noticed there is no build plate on steel print bed. Didn't test.
|}


[[File:04_noisebridge_logo_file.PNG]]
=== P8 Locke ===
* Number: P8
* Name: Locke
* Type: [[Creality CR-10 Mini3]]?
* Location: on desk next to CNC machine
* Status: Label says "Undergoing maintenance"


5. The file shows up in the preview window.
{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="6"|Log
|-
! Date
! User
! Description
|-
|2022/01/??
|
| Label says "Undergoing maintenance"
|}


[[File:04_slicer_imported.PNG]]
== Unknown Status ==
=== P9 Bertha===
* Number: P9
* Name: Bertha
* Type: [[Hypercube]]?
* Location: right shelving unit, top shelf, left side
* Status: Unknown... needs testing...


6. Click "Export G-code" to export the g-code file to the SD card (inserted in the computer).
{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="6"|Log
|-
! Date
! User
! Description
|-
|2022/01/23
| @GiftOfGabe
| Needs research
|}


Note: Don't use the path as shown on screen, pick the "F:" drive. Sometimes, the SD-card isn't recognized unless you take out the adapter, insert the SD-card into that and put the whole module in!
== Lost (Where are these printers?) ==
* [[Geeetech A20M]]
* [[Monoprice Maker Select Pro Ultimate]]


[[File:05_export_gcode.PNG]]
= Printer Types =
=== Creality Ender 3 ===
* Resources:  
  * Setup Tutorial: https://www.youtu.be/dQ0q9zLygTY
  * Bed Leveling: https://youtu.be/dQ0q9zLygTY?t=1370
  * Slicing in Cura: https://youtu.be/dQ0q9zLygTY?t=1864
  * Setup and Maintenance (some general info too): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T-Z3GmM20JM


7. Remove the SD card from the micro SD card adapter in the Threed computer.
=== Monoprice MP Select Mini ===
* More Info: [[Monoprice_Miniprinters]]


8. Insert SD card gently into a slot on the right side of the 3D printer.
=== Creality CR-10 ===


9. Move the knob till it points at Print and push it like a button.
= Filaments =
 
There are many colors of filament spools to use for printing projects. Take note of which plastic type your filament is and choose settings appropriately. Using PLA is strongly recommended in almost all cases. If the filament is brittle, then it has gone bad(just needs to be dried out?). Sealed plastic bags should be used to preserve the lifespan of filament by keeping moisture, oxygen, and dust away.
9. Turn the knob to Choose the file you want to print and push it like a button.
 
10. Push the button to print.
 
11. Watch the progress screen till the temperatures heat up the extruder and platform to the target temperatures (this will take a while so be patient).
 
12. The printer will start printing.
 
13. Wait for it to finish and enjoy your finished item by scraping it off the build platform with a thin piece of metal.
 
14. If the blue masking tape is damaged in the process, remove it and apply some fresh masking tape to the printer surface.
 
=== FLASHFORGE CREATOR DUAL EXTRUDER PRINTER ===
 
[[File:FlashForgeCreatorr.jpg|300px]]


bool '''currentlyOperational''' = true;
* TODO: Print Labels with QR Codes and start labeling Filaments


string '''cloneOf''' = "a MakerBot Replicator Dual Extruder";
{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="7" | Filament Details
|-
|Number
|Type
|Color
|Last Used
|Brand
|Date Obtained
| Nozzle Temp
| Bed Temp
|- id="F1"
| F1
| PLA 
| Yellow
| 2022/01/23
|
|
|
|}


==== Flashforge Docs ====
= PRINTING GUIDE =
* [http://www.flashforge-usa.com/shop/3d-printers/creator-dual-extruder.html this is the wood frame product], similar to the Creator Pro model made of plastic.
* [http://www.flashforge-usa.com/assets/manual/flashforge_creator_pro_user_guide_v01.20.2015.3.0.pdf?cd6e8a Flashforge Creator Pro manual]
* [http://goo.gl/3mwCkk Getting the Flashforge Creator printing]


=== Printing from your own laptop ===
# Apply fresh blue masking tape to the bed if needed.
# Software Installation
# Select a filament for usage.
## Download and install [http://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/VCP.htm FTDI Drivers].
# If necessary, remove whatever filament is currently spooled into the printer. Do this by heating the printer up to 260C, then quickly withdrawing the filament back out of the print head.
## Download and install [http://replicat.org/download ReplicatorG].
# Place your desired filament onto the spool axle, and feed the filament into the print head while heated, until filament extrudes from the nozzle cleanly in the color you inserted.
# Software Configuration
# Configure the printer for the diameter of filament inserted.  Diameter is typically 1.75mm or 2.85mm. This value will be printed on the spool.
## Open ReplicatorG.
# Remove the extruded filament from the nozzle.
## Choose the menu '''File > Open...''' and select the STL file you want to print (It will probably be in your downloads folder if you got it from a web site like Thingiverse.).
# Always level the bed before a print.
## Choose the menu '''Machine > Machine Type > The Replicator Dual'''.
## Use the printer's controller to move the print head home (X0 Y0 Z0), and disable the steppers so that you can move it freely laterally.
## Choose the menu '''Machine > Connection (Serial port) > /dev/tty.usbmodem1411'''.
## Place a piece of paper between the nozzel and the bed. For each corner, use the adjustments under the bed to change the level until there is a small bit of resistance on the paper between the nozzle and the bed. [https://youtu.be/AR2nKht6ijU Video tutorial]
##
# Configure your gcode in your slicing program of choice ([https://ultimaker.com/software/ultimaker-cura Cura] is easy and popular).
# Generate GCode from your STL file.
## Specify the diameter of your print nozzle.
# Click Connect to device. (If you have trouble, see Connection Troubleshooting below.)
## Specify the nozzle printing temperature (typically between 190C and 230C). This value will be printed as a range on the spool, use the higher end of the range.
# Slice your model, and copy the file to a MicroSD card. Each printer should have an SD card in it.
# Insert the SD card into the printer, and use the controller to select and print your gcode file.
# Once the nozzle and the bed are up to temperature, the print will begin.  Monitor as the first layer goes down.  If the nozzle is scraping or the filament is being pressed into a very thin layer, the bed is too high.  If the filament is not sticking to the bed cleanly, the bed is too low.  Either way, cancel the print and re-level the bed, then restart.
# If you expect your print to take a particularly long time, you may wish to leave a sticky note on the printer with the date/time you started it so that other makers know your completed print hasn't been abandoned.


* Connection Troubleshooting
== Troubleshooting ==
** Connection error: The serial port named '/dev/tty.usbmodem1411' could not be found.
*** It may not be turned on and plugged in.
* Printing Troubleshooting
** It stops printing midway through.
*** Are you browsing the Internet memes with Replicator in the background? It can't print very far in the background. Alt-tab/command-tab to bring ReplicatorG to foreground every time it stops and it will resume. This is one of the main reasons to start using the SD card to print: You can use your computer for other things without slowing down or stopping prints.


=== Printing from an SD card ===
* If the lines of filament coming out of the nozzle are inconsistent, the nozzle may be partially clogged. Insert a very thin wire into the nozzle to clear it.
# Put files ending in .gcode on an SD card
* If you cannot insert filament into the head, or you aren't able to get filament to extrude, it may be clogged or blocked.  Disassemble the print head and use a thin tool such as a hex key to clear the blockage from both ends.  This might need to be done with the print head hot, so use caution.
# Insert SD card into the side-facing slot on the front right side of the case.  
* If the nozzle temperature is fluctuating without stabilizing at the goal temperature, keeping the print from starting, you may need to do a [[PID Tuning]]
# Press DOWN ARROW till you reach Print from SD card
# Press CENTER SELECT


* Resources:
  * Print a Benchy Boat:
    * http://www.3dbenchy.com/features/
    * https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:763622
    * https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t_7EMnQ6Rlc
  * https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t_7EMnQ6Rlc


=== Printing from the [[Threed]] printstation PC ===
= 3D PRINTING HACKSTATION DESIGN =
A [[Threed]] printer computer station is connected to the printer.
'''Node:''' the hackstation has not yet been restored fully since the move.  You are invited to contribute to that effort.


=== Filaments ===
There are many colors of filament spools to use for printing projects. Take note of which plastic type your filament is and choose settings appropriately. The wrong plastic can damage the printer and make your prints look look like drek.
* Note: Replicator defaults are feedrate 40 and 220 degrees C. Setting them to feedrate 80 brings up an accelerated settings warning. The printer is ready to handle 80.
==== ABS Plastic ====
* Feedrate: 80
* Travel feedrate: 80
* Temperature: 230 degrees C
* Print on yellow kapton tape
* Smells like cancer
==== PLA Plastic ====
* Feedrate: 80
* Travel feedrate: 100
* Temperature: 180 degrees C
* Print on blue painter's tape
* Smells like Canadian maple syrup
=== REPRAP PRUSA PRINTER ===
See: [[RepRap]]
== PRINTING GUIDELINES ==
* Do not leave 3D printer jobs unattended. Leaving print job will result in project being tossed.
== 3D PRINTING HACKSTATION DESIGN ==
The 3D printing printing hackstation is a kiosk with the following items necessary for 3D printing:
The 3D printing printing hackstation is a kiosk with the following items necessary for 3D printing:
* 3D printer
* 3D printer
Line 161: Line 486:
* Overhead Shelf
* Overhead Shelf
** Filament spools rack
** Filament spools rack
* 3D Printer tools box
** elmers glue
** Kapton tape
** box cutter
** usb cables of various ends (micro, b)
** screw driver
** plastic scraper
** allen keys


== PROJECT IDEAS ==
[[File:3dprintertools.JPG|200px]]


* Design a 3D printing merit badge (3D printed in a merit badge shape with velcro attached to the back).
 
   
Wish list:
== Would you like to help organize a new weekly 3D printing workshop? ==
* Sandpaper
* working 3d printers
* Restored hackstation
 
= PROJECT IDEAS =
 
* Improved lighting on printer shelves
* OctoPis with cameras connected to all printers
* Giant 3d-printer
  - canabalizing 2 makerbot replicators
 
= Would you like to help organize a new weekly 3D printing workshop? =
If you are interested in organizing a new regular 3D printing meetup or reviving Replicator Wednesdays, do it!
If you are interested in organizing a new regular 3D printing meetup or reviving Replicator Wednesdays, do it!
* Let [[User:Lxpk]] know and he will assist with updating the wiki and organizing your event or project.
* Let [[User:Lxpk]] know and he will assist with updating the wiki and organizing your event or project.


== Past 3D Printing Things ==
= Past 3D Printing Things =


*We used to have [[Makerbot]] printers.
*We used to have [[Makerbot]] printers.
*We used to have [[Replicator Wednesdays]]. Want to restart it?
*We used to have [https://printerhow.com/postcard-printers/ Professional Postcard Printer]
*We used to have [[Replicator Wednesday]]. Want to restart it?
* There is an outdated [[3DPrintBeginners]] guide page that could be a source of good material for this updated new page.
* There is an outdated [[3DPrintBeginners]] guide page that could be a source of good material for this updated new page.

Latest revision as of 10:42, 23 April 2023

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Capp Printer Room.jpg
You are in the Printshop room of Noisebridge. It is sound insulated a bit from the rest of Noisebridge by its walls and 2 windowed doors, one leading out towards the Entrance and one leading in to the Hackitorium.

You see myriad 3D printers and large format 2D printers as well.

EXITS: Front, Print Shop, 2D Paper Printer, Hackitorium

> Blinkingcursor.gif

The 3D printing station is one of Noisebridge's Fabrication Resources.

  • CHANNELS: We have a #3dprinting channel on Slack.
  • RESOURCES: We have a number of 3D printers documented below which are available for use.
  • EVENTS: We used to have weekly Replicator Wednesday. Want to restart it? Volunteer to make them happen again!
  • NOTES: When logging problems or maintenance, edit so the date descends!
  • MAINTAINERS: rugyoga, Max
RECRUITING! Maintainer volunteers wanted, consider volunteering to become a maintainer. (Edit)

PRINTERS WE HAVE[edit]

Capp Printer Room.jpg

Printers and Statuses[edit]

Printers
Number Name Type Status
P1 Agent Smith #Creality Ender 3 Working
P2 Neo #Creality Ender 3 Working
P3 Harold #Creality CR-10S Not Working
P4 Trinity #Creality Ender 3 Working
P5 Cricket #Monoprice MP Select Mini Working
P6 Peter #Monoprice MP Select Mini Working
P7 Demosthenes #Creality CR-10 Mini Working
P8 Locke #Creality CR-10 Not Working
P9 Bertha #Hypercube Unknown
P10 Resin #Anycubic Photon Mono X New

Printer Details and Maintenance Log[edit]

P1 Agent Smith[edit]

  • Number: P1
  • Name: Agent Smith
  • Type: #Creality Ender 3
  • Location: Left shelving unit, middle shelf, right side
  • Status: Working
Log
Date User Description
2023/02/12 @rugyoga Installed PEI build plate
2023/02/12 @rugyoga Installed Biqu H2 extruder

P2 Neo[edit]

  • Number: P2
  • Name: Neo
  • Type: #Creality Ender 3
  • Location: left shelving unit, bottom shelf, left side
  • Status: Working
Log
Date User Description
2023/02/12 @rugyoga Installed Biqu H2 extruder
2022/08/28 @rugyoga Turned on Linear Advance and calibrated PLA (k factor: 0.06).
2022/08/28 @rugyoga Upgraded Marlin firmware to 2.0.9.5
2022/08/21 @rugyoga Ran extruder estep calibration. Result: 140.5
2022/08/14 @rugyoga Successfully printed a 20 mm calibration cube.
2022/08/14 @rugyoga Set extruder esteps to 130 per MicroSwiss doc.
2022/08/14 @rugyoga Upgraded motherboard to 32 bit BTT SKR v2. (https://www.amzn.com/B0882QGFZR)
2022/08/14 @rugyoga Replaced worn wiring harness.
2022/08/10 @rugyoga Upgraded Heater to 50W. (https://www.amzn.com/B07SYZ3LGB)
2022/08/10 @rugyoga Upgraded Thermistor to 300c capable EPCOS. (https://www.amzn.com/B08R3J6GJ3)
2022/08/10 @rugyoga Added MicroSwiss DirectDrive extruder. (https://www.amzn.com/B08CGN18KJ)
2022/08/10 @rugyoga Added PEI build plate (https://www.amzn.com/B082PFL8TX)
2022/08/10 @rugyoga Took home to perform upgrades.
2022/01/16 @GiftOfGabe Spool broke while taking it off print bed. Took it home to glue it.
2022/01/15 @GiftOfGabe Leveled Bed

P5 Cricket[edit]

Log
Date User Description
2022/01/23 @GiftOfGabe Added print spool and moved to lower shelf.
2022/01/14 ? Added label saying it works well.


P6 Peter[edit]

Log
Date User Description
2022/01/16 @GiftOfGabe Fixed extruder tube to hot end connection.
2022/01/16 @GiftOfGabe Fixed connection between extruder and tube. (Note it will not extrude if connector is too tight. Tighten nut instead.
2022/01/16 @GiftOfGabe Added tape to print bed.
2022/01/16 @GiftOfGabe Printed hotend fan clamp. It did not stick to the bed on the thin sides.
2022/01/15 @GiftOfGabe Attempted Fix, Leveled Bed


P7 Demosthenes[edit]

  • Number: P7
  • Name: Demosthenes
  • Type: #Creality CR-10 Mini
  • Location: On very top of left shelving unit
  • Status: Working
Log
Date User Description
2022/01/23 @GiftOfGabe Leveled bed with paper.
2022/01/14 ? Added label saying it works well.

P10 Anycubic[edit]

  • Number: P10
  • Name: Anycubic
  • Type: #Photon Mono X Resin
  • Location: Upstairs by the mural
  • Status: New (Leveled and working)
Log
Date User Description Resin Exposure Time Curing Time
2022/2/28 Gabriel RERF: 0.8 minor failures, 1.2-1.6 high detail Basic White Any^3 0.8-3s

P3 Harold[edit]

  • Number: P3
  • Name: Harold
  • Type: Creality CR-10S
  • Location: left shelving unit, bottom shelf, right side
  • Status: hotend heat sink is striped and cannot connect to feeder tube, SD Card reader will not lock in but it can still cards if most the way in.
Log
Date User Description
2022/01/23 @GiftOfGabe Attempted fix and print. Extruder tube came out of heatsink. It appears to be striped. Looked for other part but may need new hot end.


P4 Trinity[edit]

  • Number: P4
  • Name: Trinity
  • Type: Creality Ender 3
  • Location: left shelving unit, middle shelf, left side
  • Status: Being upgraded
Log
Date User Description
2022/8/27 @rugyoga Replaced its thermistor with 450c capable (https://www.amzn.com/B0888NJ63W)

Marlin changes: configuration_adv.h: "#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 66"

src/module/thermistor/thermistor_66.h: 

{OV(1022), 23},
{OV(1023), 22},
{OV(1024), 19}};
2022/8/27 @rugyoga Upgraded its hot end with Creality Spider all metal hotend. (https://www.amzn.com/B09QKT5F2B)
2022/8/27 @rugyoga Upgraded its screen with an SKR TFT35 touch screen. (https://www.amzn.com/B08182XHZZ)
2022/8/27 @rugyoga Upgraded its motherboard with an SKR Mini v2 32 bit motherboard. (https://www.amzn.com/B0882QGFZR)
2022/7/26 @rugyoga Replaced its missing build plate with a PEI sheet on a steel plate. (https://www.amzn.com/B07GSJSDWR)
2022/01/23 @GiftOfGabe Moved paper printer and repositioned. Noticed there is no build plate on steel print bed. Didn't test.

P8 Locke[edit]

  • Number: P8
  • Name: Locke
  • Type: Creality CR-10 Mini3?
  • Location: on desk next to CNC machine
  • Status: Label says "Undergoing maintenance"
Log
Date User Description
2022/01/?? Label says "Undergoing maintenance"

Unknown Status[edit]

P9 Bertha[edit]

  • Number: P9
  • Name: Bertha
  • Type: Hypercube?
  • Location: right shelving unit, top shelf, left side
  • Status: Unknown... needs testing...
Log
Date User Description
2022/01/23 @GiftOfGabe Needs research

Lost (Where are these printers?)[edit]

Printer Types[edit]

Creality Ender 3[edit]

  • Resources:
 * Setup Tutorial: https://www.youtu.be/dQ0q9zLygTY
 * Bed Leveling: https://youtu.be/dQ0q9zLygTY?t=1370
 * Slicing in Cura: https://youtu.be/dQ0q9zLygTY?t=1864
 * Setup and Maintenance (some general info too): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T-Z3GmM20JM

Monoprice MP Select Mini[edit]

Creality CR-10[edit]

Filaments[edit]

There are many colors of filament spools to use for printing projects. Take note of which plastic type your filament is and choose settings appropriately. Using PLA is strongly recommended in almost all cases. If the filament is brittle, then it has gone bad(just needs to be dried out?). Sealed plastic bags should be used to preserve the lifespan of filament by keeping moisture, oxygen, and dust away.


  • TODO: Print Labels with QR Codes and start labeling Filaments
Filament Details
Number Type Color Last Used Brand Date Obtained Nozzle Temp Bed Temp
F1 PLA Yellow 2022/01/23

PRINTING GUIDE[edit]

  1. Apply fresh blue masking tape to the bed if needed.
  2. Select a filament for usage.
  3. If necessary, remove whatever filament is currently spooled into the printer. Do this by heating the printer up to 260C, then quickly withdrawing the filament back out of the print head.
  4. Place your desired filament onto the spool axle, and feed the filament into the print head while heated, until filament extrudes from the nozzle cleanly in the color you inserted.
  5. Configure the printer for the diameter of filament inserted. Diameter is typically 1.75mm or 2.85mm. This value will be printed on the spool.
  6. Remove the extruded filament from the nozzle.
  7. Always level the bed before a print.
    1. Use the printer's controller to move the print head home (X0 Y0 Z0), and disable the steppers so that you can move it freely laterally.
    2. Place a piece of paper between the nozzel and the bed. For each corner, use the adjustments under the bed to change the level until there is a small bit of resistance on the paper between the nozzle and the bed. Video tutorial
  8. Configure your gcode in your slicing program of choice (Cura is easy and popular).
    1. Specify the diameter of your print nozzle.
    2. Specify the nozzle printing temperature (typically between 190C and 230C). This value will be printed as a range on the spool, use the higher end of the range.
  9. Slice your model, and copy the file to a MicroSD card. Each printer should have an SD card in it.
  10. Insert the SD card into the printer, and use the controller to select and print your gcode file.
  11. Once the nozzle and the bed are up to temperature, the print will begin. Monitor as the first layer goes down. If the nozzle is scraping or the filament is being pressed into a very thin layer, the bed is too high. If the filament is not sticking to the bed cleanly, the bed is too low. Either way, cancel the print and re-level the bed, then restart.
  12. If you expect your print to take a particularly long time, you may wish to leave a sticky note on the printer with the date/time you started it so that other makers know your completed print hasn't been abandoned.

Troubleshooting[edit]

  • If the lines of filament coming out of the nozzle are inconsistent, the nozzle may be partially clogged. Insert a very thin wire into the nozzle to clear it.
  • If you cannot insert filament into the head, or you aren't able to get filament to extrude, it may be clogged or blocked. Disassemble the print head and use a thin tool such as a hex key to clear the blockage from both ends. This might need to be done with the print head hot, so use caution.
  • If the nozzle temperature is fluctuating without stabilizing at the goal temperature, keeping the print from starting, you may need to do a PID Tuning
  • Resources:
 * Print a Benchy Boat: 
   * http://www.3dbenchy.com/features/
   * https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:763622
   * https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t_7EMnQ6Rlc
 * https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t_7EMnQ6Rlc

3D PRINTING HACKSTATION DESIGN[edit]

Node: the hackstation has not yet been restored fully since the move. You are invited to contribute to that effort.

The 3D printing printing hackstation is a kiosk with the following items necessary for 3D printing:

  • 3D printer
  • Pegboard
    • Blue masking tape to coat the build platform.
    • Wedge to scrape builds off of the tape.
      • Autobody chisel works best.
    • Ruler
    • Duster spray can to clean out parts
    • Files to file down parts
    • Scraps box for recycling of wasted parts.
    • Showcase box for showing cool things to inspire people with.
    • Cleaning Reminder Sign: (Please help keep NOISEBRIDGE tidy by keeping this area clean.)
  • Overhead Shelf
    • Filament spools rack
  • 3D Printer tools box
    • elmers glue
    • Kapton tape
    • box cutter
    • usb cables of various ends (micro, b)
    • screw driver
    • plastic scraper
    • allen keys

3dprintertools.JPG


Wish list:

  • Sandpaper
  • working 3d printers
  • Restored hackstation

PROJECT IDEAS[edit]

  • Improved lighting on printer shelves
  • OctoPis with cameras connected to all printers
  • Giant 3d-printer
- canabalizing 2 makerbot replicators

Would you like to help organize a new weekly 3D printing workshop?[edit]

If you are interested in organizing a new regular 3D printing meetup or reviving Replicator Wednesdays, do it!

  • Let User:Lxpk know and he will assist with updating the wiki and organizing your event or project.

Past 3D Printing Things[edit]

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