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The 3D printing station is one of Noisebridge's Fabrication Resources.
|RECRUITING! Maintainer volunteers wanted, consider volunteering to become a maintainer. Edit|
PRINTERS WE HAVE
Number: P1 Name: Wiggins Type: [Creality Ender 3| 3D Printing#Creality Ender 3] Location: Left shelving unit, top shelf, right side
- Creality Ender 3 (x1) (left shelving unit, bottom shelf, left side)
- Monoprice MP Select Mini (right shelving unit, top shelf, ride side)
- Monoprice MP Select Mini (Fixed, printing ok, On very top of left shelving unit)
- Creality CR-10 (printed on it 2022/01/23)
- Creality Ender 3 (left shelving unit, bottom shelf, right side) (hotend heat sink is striped and cannot connect to feeder tube, SD Card reader will not lock in but it can still cards if most the way in.)
- Creality Ender 3 (left shelving unit, top shelf, left side) (no build plate)
- HyperCube? - (right shelving unit, top shelf, left side)
- Creality CR-10 Mini - (on desk next to CNC machine? Label says "Undergoing maintenance" 2022/01/23)
- Geeetech A20M
- Monoprice Maker Select Pro Ultimate
= Printer Types -
Creality Ender 3
Monoprice MP Select Mini
There are many colors of filament spools to use for printing projects. Take note of which plastic type your filament is and choose settings appropriately. Using PLA is strongly recommended in almost all cases. If the filament is brittle, then it has gone bad. Sealed plastic bags should be used to preserve the lifespan of filament by keeping moisture, oxygen, and dust away.
- Apply fresh blue masking tape to the bed if needed.
- Select a filament for usage.
- If necessary, remove whatever filament is currently spooled into the printer. Do this by heating the printer up to 260C, then quickly withdrawing the filament back out of the print head.
- Place your desired filament onto the spool axle, and feed the filament into the print head while heated, until filament extrudes from the nozzle cleanly in the color you inserted.
- Configure the printer for the diameter of filament inserted. Diameter is typically 1.75mm or 2.85mm. This value will be printed on the spool.
- Remove the extruded filament from the nozzle.
- Always level the bed before a print.
- Use the printer's controller to move the print head home (X0 Y0 Z0), and disable the steppers so that you can move it freely laterally.
- Place a piece of paper between the nozzel and the bed. For each corner, use the adjustments under the bed to change the level until there is a small bit of resistance on the paper between the nozzle and the bed. Video tutorial
- Configure your gcode in your slicing program of choice (Cura is easy and popular).
- Specify the diameter of your print nozzle.
- Specify the nozzle printing temperature (typically between 190C and 230C). This value will be printed as a range on the spool, use the higher end of the range.
- Slice your model, and copy the file to a MicroSD card. Each printer should have an SD card in it.
- Insert the SD card into the printer, and use the controller to select and print your gcode file.
- Once the nozzle and the bed are up to temperature, the print will begin. Monitor as the first layer goes down. If the nozzle is scraping or the filament is being pressed into a very thin layer, the bed is too high. If the filament is not sticking to the bed cleanly, the bed is too low. Either way, cancel the print and re-level the bed, then restart.
- If you expect your print to take a particularly long time, you may wish to leave a sticky note on the printer with the date/time you started it so that other makers know your completed print hasn't been abandoned.
- If the lines of filament coming out of the nozzle are inconsistent, the nozzle may be partially clogged. Insert a very thin wire into the nozzle to clear it.
- If you cannot insert filament into the head, or you aren't able to get filament to extrude, it may be clogged or blocked. Disassemble the print head and use a thin tool such as a hex key to clear the blockage from both ends. This might need to be done with the print head hot, so use caution.
3D PRINTING HACKSTATION DESIGN
Node: the hackstation has not yet been restored fully since the move. You are invited to contribute to that effort.
The 3D printing printing hackstation is a kiosk with the following items necessary for 3D printing:
- 3D printer
- Blue masking tape to coat the build platform.
- Wedge to scrape builds off of the tape.
- Autobody chisel works best.
- Duster spray can to clean out parts
- Files to file down parts
- Scraps box for recycling of wasted parts.
- Showcase box for showing cool things to inspire people with.
- Cleaning Reminder Sign: (Please help keep NOISEBRIDGE tidy by keeping this area clean.)
- Overhead Shelf
- Filament spools rack
- 3D Printer tools box
- elmers glue
- Kapton tape
- box cutter
- usb cables of various ends (micro, b)
- screw driver
- plastic scraper
- allen keys
- working 3d printers
- Restored hackstation
- Improved lighting on printer shelves
- OctoPis with cameras connected to all printers
- Giant 3d-printer
- canabalizing 2 makerbot replicators
Would you like to help organize a new weekly 3D printing workshop?
If you are interested in organizing a new regular 3D printing meetup or reviving Replicator Wednesdays, do it!
- Let User:Lxpk know and he will assist with updating the wiki and organizing your event or project.
Past 3D Printing Things
- We used to have Makerbot printers.
- We used to have Professional Postcard Printer
- We used to have Replicator Wednesday. Want to restart it?
- There is an outdated 3DPrintBeginners guide page that could be a source of good material for this updated new page.