Compass Vibro Anklet Directions
Jump to navigation
Jump to search
You are not logged in. Your IP address will be publicly visible if you make any edits. If you
create an account
, your edits will be attributed to your username, along with other benefits.
Anti-spam check. Do
fill this in!
==Part Four: Assemble Controller on Board== This step pretty much involves putting the controller together again in a way that is more compact so you can wear it around. The compass chip still needs to be horizontal, even though the rest of it will probably end up vertical. Compass chips needs to be horizontal to work. At least, two-axis compass chips do. A good three-axis chip wouldn’t necessarily need to be horizontal to work, but 3D compass chips are prohibitively expensive. 1. Solder the shift register onto a minimally sized rectangle of proto-board. 2. Solder the Arduino board on top so that the shift register is sandwiched in between. If you do this right, most of the data connections will actually fit together perfectly. 3. Solder the compass chip at the tip of the other two boards so that the compass chip is horizontal while the Arduino is vertical. Connect the compass chip to the Arduino. 4. Make a connection from the Arduino to the battery (again, this should probably involve your switch). The battery will go in a separate pocket, so use a few inches of wire on each side. 5. Make a connection from the shift register to the connector for the pager motor array. Again, one pin needs to have power, and the other eight will connect to the eight drains on the shift register. Soldering the little wires in for this step is absolutely horrible, but don't worry too much if you don't solder the pins in the right order, you can change to code later to compensate. At this point, you should have a compact little stack of electronics plus a battery. It should still work the same way it did when everything was on the breadboard, but now it will fit in the armature. You will need some kind of casing for the stack of electronics. You may be able to modify an existing plastic box for this, or make your own. NOTE: Skory and Eric are working very hard on a PCB which will make this step a lot easier and remove a lot of the wiring and difficult soldering and hassle for this. If this works well, the instructions will be updated with steps for how to do this instead, along with how to purchase these PCBs.
Please note that all contributions to Noisebridge are considered to be released under the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike (see
for details). If you do not want your writing to be edited mercilessly and redistributed at will, then do not submit it here.
You are also promising us that you wrote this yourself, or copied it from a public domain or similar free resource.
Do not submit copyrighted work without permission!
To protect the wiki against automated edit spam, we kindly ask you to solve the following CAPTCHA:
(opens in new window)
Retrieved from "
Not logged in
What links here