Editing Sewing
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# '''Keep the machine's parts with the machine.''' Some machines have a storage compartment on the front of the bed (the bottom portion of the machine where the bobbin is). The domestic machines have a kit for holding bobbins, feet, needles, spool caps, screwdrivers, and anything else necessary to using the machine. The pedal should be kept with the machine at all times, and should have a paper tag tied to it identifying which machine it belongs to. (Such tags are kept in a drawer in the sewing area.) | # '''Keep the machine's parts with the machine.''' Some machines have a storage compartment on the front of the bed (the bottom portion of the machine where the bobbin is). The domestic machines have a kit for holding bobbins, feet, needles, spool caps, screwdrivers, and anything else necessary to using the machine. The pedal should be kept with the machine at all times, and should have a paper tag tied to it identifying which machine it belongs to. (Such tags are kept in a drawer in the sewing area.) | ||
# '''Use the correct needle, and change the needle when needed.''' Always check which needle is loaded into the machine before you start sewing—make sure it's right for the type (woven vs. knit vs. solid) of fabric, the tightness of weave/knit, and the weight of the fabric. | # '''Use the correct needle, and change the needle when needed.''' Always check which needle is loaded into the machine before you start sewing—make sure it's right for the type (woven vs. knit vs. solid) of fabric, the tightness of weave/knit, and the weight of the fabric. | ||
#* | #* Solid fabrics such as leather or vinyl require special “leather” needles, made to pierce solid objects. Knitted fabrics, including T-shirt fabric, require “ball point” needles, which are less likely to pierce/cut a yarn. Tight weaves such as microsuede may require “microtex” or “sharp” needles that can find their way between the yarns. Denim and heavy canvas may require “denim” (a.k.a. “jeans”) needles. Most normal woven fabrics will work with a “universal” needle. | ||
#* If you're using the right kind of needle but it isn't going through/is skipping stitches or is stitching irregularly or with difficulty, try a heavier diameter or (if woven) a denim needle. Most likely the needle is | #* If you're using the right kind of needle but it isn't going through/is skipping stitches or is stitching irregularly or with difficulty, try a heavier diameter or (if woven) a denim needle. Most likely the needle is bending when it hits the fabric. Continuing to sew in this state is a good way to permanently bend (i.e., ruin) or break the needle. | ||
#* Needles wear out! They are a consumable. If you're pretty sure you have the right kind and diameter of needle, change it out for another like one. If that works better, safely dispose of the worn needle—don't put it back for some other sucker to try. | #* Needles wear out! They are a consumable. If you're pretty sure you have the right kind and diameter of needle, change it out for another like one. If that works better, safely dispose of the worn needle—don't put it back for some other sucker to try. | ||
# '''Avoid computerized machines unless you ''really'' need them.''' Computerized machines are much more delicate than mechanical machines. The best reason to use a computerized machine is it's the one with embroidery features and you need that. Otherwise, take a mechanical one such as the Kenmore 385 if it's available—they hold up better. | # '''Avoid computerized machines unless you ''really'' need them.''' Computerized machines are much more delicate than mechanical machines. The best reason to use a computerized machine is it's the one with embroidery features and you need that. Otherwise, take a mechanical one such as the Kenmore 385 if it's available—they hold up better. |