Difference between revisions of "Sewing"

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Sewing Machines. We has them.
+
= Overview =
  
For both industrial machines, please DO NOT unthread them unless you must, to fix a snarl.  Instead, to remove (say) your own thread, simply cut it close to the spool so that the next person can simply tie a knot with the next thread and pull it all the way through to the needle.
+
We have five mostly functional sewing machines:
  
Needles for these machines are <b><span style="color:red">NOT</span></b> sold at most fabric stores.  Both kinds take the same type of needle, luckily.  The closest place to get them is at Apparel City, on Howard between 11th & 12th.  Tell them you want size 14 needles for a Juki DDL 5550 and they'll give you the right kind.
+
Industrial style machines:
 +
* Single Needle Lock Stitch (Juki DDL 227)
 +
*Straight Stitch Walking Foot (Juki LU-563)
 +
*Five-thread Overlock Serger (Juki MO-2416)
  
If you've never operated a sewing machine before, ask some people at Noisebridge such as Rachel, Rachel, Crutcher, Alex, Ariel.  Or do some research online.  You are very unlikely to damage the machines by simply messing around with them, but they are not completely self-explanatory and this page does assume a certain amount of prior general knowledge.  A good time to get help is Wednesday evenings, when [[SCoW]] meets.
+
Home-style machines:
 +
*Brother SE400 Combination Computerized Sewing and 4x4 Embroidery Machine
 +
*130-Stitch Computerized Sewing and Quilting (Brother XR1355)
  
If a sewing machine is actually broken and non functional, as opposed to just you can't figure out how to make it work, please call Billy from Apparel City at 415-816-8645 (mobile) and schedule an appointment for him to come fix it.  He usually charges around $80 per hour, plus parts.  Email the [https://www.noisebridge.net/mailman/listinfo/sewing/|sewing list] and people will chip in to cover this.  If you can't manage this process, email the sewing list and find someone else who can. Also, please put a note on the machine so people know what is going on with it.
+
All sewing machines have QR codes on them that link to their entries on this page. Please use them.
  
== The industrial straight stitch Juki sewing machine ==
+
We also have these sewing amenities:
This machine does only straight stitches, no zig-zag (and no button holes).  It can go very fast. It has an automatic thread cutter which is triggered by pushing down on the treadle with your heel, the opposite from how you push to have it make stitches.  There's a set of buttons on a widget atop the machine which control automated backstitching.  If the top light is lit, the machine will do a backstitch when you start a seam.  If the bottom light is lit, it will do a backstitch prior to cutting the thread, when you push back on the treadle.  Push the associated button to toggle the backstitching.  If this isn't clear yet, take some scrap fabric and play around with it until it makes sense.  There's scrap fabric in the wheeled canvas bins under the table by the window.
+
* Giant ass table with cutting mat surface (50 inches x ? inches )
  
Bobbins are kept in the drawer under the left side of the machine's table.  Also in that drawer are thread snips, replacement needles, and a little screwdriver to change the needle with.  Note that the needle faces to the left, instead of to the front, as on most home sewing machines.  If you replace a broken needle and put it in facing forwards, nothing will break but the machine will not form stitches.
+
* Irons and Ironing board
  
To wind a bobbin, place the empty bobbin on the horizontal spindle to the right of the machine body (near the hand wheel).  Run a second thread through the upper holder, down to the tensioner at the back of the right side of the machine, in line with the spindle.  Thread the end through one of the holes in the bobbin side, from the inside to the outside.  Press the lever to push the spindle down in contact with the sewing machine belt.  While holding the thread end so it doesn't just whip out of the bobbin, press the treadle to run a couple of inches (if there were fabric in the machine).  Soon enough you can let go of the thread end as it will have been caught by windings on top of it.  If you are doing a lot of sewing, you can start a new bobbin before the current one is empty, and let it wind up as you sew.  When the bobbin is full, the lever will automatically snap out away from the belt and stop winding thread.
+
* Big donation bins of extra thread and fabric you can use for projects
  
The top speed of the machine can be adjusted using one of the knobs on a box under the table, next to the motor.  It is the second knob down.  Right is faster, left is slower.  Feel free to adjust this -- use a scrap piece of fabric to determine a good top speed for your skill level and project needs.
+
* lots of odds and ends
  
Full manual: [[Media:Juki-ddl-5550-6.pdf]]
+
* 2 dress forms
  
Recommended reading:
+
- Full length mirror
 +
 
 +
= Tips =
 +
* Please DO NOT unthread the sewing machines unless you must. (e.g. to remove a spool of thread, simply cut it close to the spool so that the next person can simply tie a knot with the next thread and pull it all the way through to the needle). This is most important for the serger.
 +
 
 +
* Needles, bobbins, and other parts  are located in labeled drawers underneath the pegboard (PLEASE KEEP IT ORGANIZED). Also check the drawers attached to each sewing machine table.
 +
** The closest place to get parts is at Apparel City, on Howard between 11th & 12th. 
 +
** Needles may differ between machines and come in sizes (10, 12, 14, 16, etc.). The higher numbers are heavier gauge needles suitable for thicker fabrics.  Leather needles have a tiny blade at the tip. Don't use a leather needle for other fabrics, though, it will cut the threads rather than squeezing between them, leaving holes that may start rips.
 +
**Needles for the straight stitch machines must be inserted with the scarf facing right. Please check the respective manuals.
 +
 
 +
* If you've never operated a sewing machine before, ask some people at Noisebridge (Kyle or Ely). Sewing machines are not self-explanatory and this page does assume a certain amount of prior general knowledge.
 +
**Read the manual and do some research online.
 +
**Printed manuals for the two Juki Machines and the Thompson are located in a grey binder on the bookshelf
 +
 
 +
*Use scraps for testing to determine thread tension and sewing speed.
 +
 
 +
*Recommended reading:
  
 
[http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/3751/machine-needle-know-how About sewing machine needles]
 
[http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/3751/machine-needle-know-how About sewing machine needles]
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[http://www.wipo.int/pctdb/en/wo.jsp?WO=2002000984&IA=US2001041173&DISPLAY=STATUS What is a thread wiper?]
 
[http://www.wipo.int/pctdb/en/wo.jsp?WO=2002000984&IA=US2001041173&DISPLAY=STATUS What is a thread wiper?]
  
[[Juki Maintenance]] Replacing the counter knife, etc.
+
[http://www.citysewing.com/diference-between-clutch-motor-servo-motor/ Difference between clutch and servo motors]
 +
 
 +
==Winding a Bobbin==
 +
*Juki DDL-227 & Juki LU-563
 +
**To wind a bobbin, place the empty bobbin on the horizontal spindle to the right of the machine body (near the hand wheel).  Run a second thread through the upper holder, down to the tensioner at the back of the right side of the machine, in line with the spindle.  Thread the end through one of the holes in the bobbin side, from the inside to the outside.  Press the lever to push the spindle down in contact with the sewing machine belt.  While holding the thread end so it doesn't just whip out of the bobbin, press the pedal to run a couple of inches (if there were fabric in the machine).  Soon enough you can let go of the thread end as it will have been caught by windings on top of it.  If you are doing a lot of sewing, you can start a new bobbin before the current one is empty, and let it wind up as you sew.  When the bobbin is full, the lever will automatically snap out away from the belt and stop winding thread.
 +
 
 +
== Repairing a Sewing Machine ==
 +
* If a sewing machine is actually broken and non functional, as opposed to just you can't figure out how to make it work, please call Billy from Apparel City at 415-816-8645 (mobile) and schedule an appointment for him to come fix it. 
 +
** He usually charges around $80 per hour, plus parts. 
 +
** Email the [https://www.noisebridge.net/mailman/listinfo/sewing/|sewing list] and people will chip in to cover this.  If you can't manage this process, email the sewing list and find someone else who can.  Also, please put a note on the machine so people know what is going on with it.
 +
 
 +
= Sewing Machines =
 +
 
 +
== High Speed Lock stitch (Juki DDL 227) ==
 +
 
 +
*[[Juki Maintenance Notes]] - Replacing the counter knife, needle bar, thread guides, etc.
 +
These were originally written for our old DDL-5550-6 machine but the 227 is very similar.
 +
 
 +
=== Overview ===
 +
* General fabrics, light-weight materials and medium weight materials.
 +
** '''Not for leather or book binding.''' Please use the right tool for the job.
 +
* Clutch motor (fast!)
 +
*Recommended thread size of Tex-40 in the DDL
 +
 
 +
=== Manual for Juki DDL-227 ===
 +
PDF - https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1005359/Juki-Ddl-227.html
 +
 
 +
== Straight Stitch Walking Foot (Juki LU-563) ==
 +
 
 +
*This is a high tension machine. You must press the knee lifter to pull thread through. This will release the tension.
 +
**Conversely, DO NOT run into the knee lifter at all while sewing. This will release the tension and your stitches will be too loose.
 +
*Pressing back or letting go of the pedal will engage the brake. Slightly depress the pedal to release the brake. You must do this to use the hand wheel
 +
 
 +
=== Overview ===
 +
* Medium weight and heavy weight materials, leather and vinyl
 +
** Not for light-weight materials!
 +
* Clutch Motor
 +
** This machine is VERY fast
 +
*Horizontal Bobbin
 +
*Recommended thread size Tex-70 in the walking foot
 +
 
 +
=== Manual for Juki LU-563 ===
 +
PDF - http://keysew.com/Webpages/DemoImages/Juki_LU-563_Instruction_Keyfooter.pdf
 +
 
 +
== Five-thread Overlock Serger (Juki MO-2416) ==
 +
 
 +
*Pulling fabric out of the machine may cause thread breaks. It is best to feed thread with the pedal when removing your workpiece.
 +
*DO NOT UNTHREAD THE SERGER. It takes about 30 minutes and a lot of patience to thread this machine.  However, if you are an experience user of industrial sergers you will be able to thread this machine quickly.  Using tweezers helps.  Also, using the correct thread for the correct machine is essential.  Good Luck and happy sewing.
 +
 
 +
=== Overview ===
 +
This machine is not made for knits.  It is made for wovens.  It is a five spool.  It has a clutch motor and this is the reason that it goes so very rapidly.  The overlock sews to prevent fray.  However, the machine make a chain stitch at the same time.  For example, if you were to look inside of your jeans, you can  observe these methods.  A chain stitch and overlock.  This type of machines is used for medium weight fabric.
 +
 
 +
 
 +
 
 +
*This machine has a knife placed to cut the fabric as you sew, and it *is possible* to cut your finger badly on this knife if you are not careful. BE CAREFUL. This machine also can go extremely, sometimes startlingly, fast.
 +
 
 +
=== Manual for Juki MO-2416 ===
 +
 
 +
* PDF - [[Media:JukiMO240424142416.pdf]]
 +
 
 +
== Brother SE400 Embroidery Machine ==
 +
This machine is awesome, and can do many different stitches as well as CNC embroidery.
 +
It's usually stored on the wall of the sewing area. It looks like a home sewing machine but is as expensive as an industrial one and is many people's favorite machine.
 +
[[Embroidery Machine]]
 +
 
 +
== 130-Stitch Computerized Sewing and Quilting (Brother XR1355) ==
 +
 
 +
*This machine is stored away in one of the sewing area cubbies.
 +
 
 +
=== Overview ===
 +
*This machine does 130 different stitches including lots of cool decorative flowers and patterns. It is also the only machine that can do a zig-zag stitch.
 +
 
 +
 
 +
=== Manual for Brother XR1355 ===
 +
 
 +
* PDF - http://download.brother.com/welcome/doch001142/xr1355ug02en.pdf
 +
*Spanish copy located on bookshelf in grey binder.
 +
 
 +
[[Category:Pages with a Noisebridge Tiny URL]]
 +
 
 +
 
 +
 
 +
== Singer 57817 ==
 +
 
 +
Manual: https://www.noisebridge.net/wiki/File:Singer_57817.pdf
 +
 
 +
==  Singer CG-590-C ==
 +
 
 +
Manual: In Manuals Collection
 +
 
 +
== White YM-43-8 ==
 +
 
 +
Manual: Unknown
 +
 
 +
== Singer 621-B ==
 +
 
 +
Manual: Unknown
  
== The industrial Juki serger ==
+
== White E-6354 ==
This machine does three kinds of stitches: a three-thread overlock, a chainstitch/overlock combination, or a four-thread overlock.  Normally it is set up to do the three-thread overlock, which only requires one needle, and doesn't use the rear thread trace or the second upper thread trace.  This machine has a knife placed to cut the fabric as you sew, and it *is possible* to cut your finger badly on this knife if you are not careful.  The location of the knife is pointed out in bright orange nail polish on the machine.  BE CAREFUL.  This machine also can go extremely, sometimes startlingly, fast.
 
  
Thread tension is controlled by the knobs on the right front of the machine.  Mostly they're adjusted properly, and for most uses of serging the tension is not critical.  If the serged stitching is really wonky, though, try messing with the tension dials - be sure the thread is caught properly between the tension plates, as it occasionally gets into the springs instead.
+
Manual: Unknown
  
DO NOT UNTHREAD THE SERGER.  If you want different colored thread, simply cut off the current threads near the cone spools, and tie on a new thread.  Then either pull the threads through from the needle area (this can be difficult as they are somewhat knotted and you'll have to pull one out through the guts of the machine), or serge for a few inches on some scrap until the new color is pulled through.  You may or may not find that the knot catches on the hole in the needle.  If it does, just cut it, rethread the needle, pull 6 or 8 inches of thread through, and keep serging for a bit.
+
== Brother Exedra E-40 ==
  
If a thread breaks and forms a tangle, or breaks somewhere in the middle of the threading, you can find a map of how to rethread it on the inside of a little door that opens up just to the right of the knife. It opens downwards and lets you get at the levers and such of the thread traces. Each thread trace is drawn in a different color, however note that the tension dials are of mismatched colors, so follow the guide not the tension dial coloring.
+
Manual: https://www.noisebridge.net/wiki/File:Brother_E-40_Operation_Panel_Instruction_Manual.pdf
  
If you have to replace the needle, the notch in the needle faces backwards and if threads front to back.
+
== Kenmore Overlock 3/4D ==
  
Full manual: [[Media:JukiMO240424142416.pdf]]
+
Manual: In Manuals Collection, also https://www.noisebridge.net/wiki/File:Overlock_34d_38516631.compressed.pdf
  
== The portable Necchi ==
+
= Grand Reopening Poster =
This is the only one of our functional sewing machines that can make buttonholes.  It tends to snarl when run fast, but is usually OK when run at a slow or moderate speed.
 
  
[http://www.instructables.com/id/Noisebridge-Sewing-Machine/ Instructions for the smaller Necchi sewing machine.]
+
[[File:Sewing-Area-Poster.jpg|none|300px]]

Latest revision as of 06:50, 5 July 2018

Overview[edit]

We have five mostly functional sewing machines:

Industrial style machines:

  • Single Needle Lock Stitch (Juki DDL 227)
  • Straight Stitch Walking Foot (Juki LU-563)
  • Five-thread Overlock Serger (Juki MO-2416)

Home-style machines:

  • Brother SE400 Combination Computerized Sewing and 4x4 Embroidery Machine
  • 130-Stitch Computerized Sewing and Quilting (Brother XR1355)

All sewing machines have QR codes on them that link to their entries on this page. Please use them.

We also have these sewing amenities:

  • Giant ass table with cutting mat surface (50 inches x ? inches )
  • Irons and Ironing board
  • Big donation bins of extra thread and fabric you can use for projects
  • lots of odds and ends
  • 2 dress forms

- Full length mirror

Tips[edit]

  • Please DO NOT unthread the sewing machines unless you must. (e.g. to remove a spool of thread, simply cut it close to the spool so that the next person can simply tie a knot with the next thread and pull it all the way through to the needle). This is most important for the serger.
  • Needles, bobbins, and other parts are located in labeled drawers underneath the pegboard (PLEASE KEEP IT ORGANIZED). Also check the drawers attached to each sewing machine table.
    • The closest place to get parts is at Apparel City, on Howard between 11th & 12th.
    • Needles may differ between machines and come in sizes (10, 12, 14, 16, etc.). The higher numbers are heavier gauge needles suitable for thicker fabrics. Leather needles have a tiny blade at the tip. Don't use a leather needle for other fabrics, though, it will cut the threads rather than squeezing between them, leaving holes that may start rips.
    • Needles for the straight stitch machines must be inserted with the scarf facing right. Please check the respective manuals.
  • If you've never operated a sewing machine before, ask some people at Noisebridge (Kyle or Ely). Sewing machines are not self-explanatory and this page does assume a certain amount of prior general knowledge.
    • Read the manual and do some research online.
    • Printed manuals for the two Juki Machines and the Thompson are located in a grey binder on the bookshelf
  • Use scraps for testing to determine thread tension and sewing speed.
  • Recommended reading:

About sewing machine needles

Understanding thread tension

Sew heavy material

What is a thread wiper?

Difference between clutch and servo motors

Winding a Bobbin[edit]

  • Juki DDL-227 & Juki LU-563
    • To wind a bobbin, place the empty bobbin on the horizontal spindle to the right of the machine body (near the hand wheel). Run a second thread through the upper holder, down to the tensioner at the back of the right side of the machine, in line with the spindle. Thread the end through one of the holes in the bobbin side, from the inside to the outside. Press the lever to push the spindle down in contact with the sewing machine belt. While holding the thread end so it doesn't just whip out of the bobbin, press the pedal to run a couple of inches (if there were fabric in the machine). Soon enough you can let go of the thread end as it will have been caught by windings on top of it. If you are doing a lot of sewing, you can start a new bobbin before the current one is empty, and let it wind up as you sew. When the bobbin is full, the lever will automatically snap out away from the belt and stop winding thread.

Repairing a Sewing Machine[edit]

  • If a sewing machine is actually broken and non functional, as opposed to just you can't figure out how to make it work, please call Billy from Apparel City at 415-816-8645 (mobile) and schedule an appointment for him to come fix it.
    • He usually charges around $80 per hour, plus parts.
    • Email the list and people will chip in to cover this. If you can't manage this process, email the sewing list and find someone else who can. Also, please put a note on the machine so people know what is going on with it.

Sewing Machines[edit]

High Speed Lock stitch (Juki DDL 227)[edit]

These were originally written for our old DDL-5550-6 machine but the 227 is very similar.

Overview[edit]

  • General fabrics, light-weight materials and medium weight materials.
    • Not for leather or book binding. Please use the right tool for the job.
  • Clutch motor (fast!)
  • Recommended thread size of Tex-40 in the DDL

Manual for Juki DDL-227[edit]

PDF - https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1005359/Juki-Ddl-227.html

Straight Stitch Walking Foot (Juki LU-563)[edit]

  • This is a high tension machine. You must press the knee lifter to pull thread through. This will release the tension.
    • Conversely, DO NOT run into the knee lifter at all while sewing. This will release the tension and your stitches will be too loose.
  • Pressing back or letting go of the pedal will engage the brake. Slightly depress the pedal to release the brake. You must do this to use the hand wheel

Overview[edit]

  • Medium weight and heavy weight materials, leather and vinyl
    • Not for light-weight materials!
  • Clutch Motor
    • This machine is VERY fast
  • Horizontal Bobbin
  • Recommended thread size Tex-70 in the walking foot

Manual for Juki LU-563[edit]

PDF - http://keysew.com/Webpages/DemoImages/Juki_LU-563_Instruction_Keyfooter.pdf

Five-thread Overlock Serger (Juki MO-2416)[edit]

  • Pulling fabric out of the machine may cause thread breaks. It is best to feed thread with the pedal when removing your workpiece.
  • DO NOT UNTHREAD THE SERGER. It takes about 30 minutes and a lot of patience to thread this machine. However, if you are an experience user of industrial sergers you will be able to thread this machine quickly. Using tweezers helps. Also, using the correct thread for the correct machine is essential. Good Luck and happy sewing.

Overview[edit]

This machine is not made for knits. It is made for wovens. It is a five spool. It has a clutch motor and this is the reason that it goes so very rapidly. The overlock sews to prevent fray. However, the machine make a chain stitch at the same time. For example, if you were to look inside of your jeans, you can observe these methods. A chain stitch and overlock. This type of machines is used for medium weight fabric.


  • This machine has a knife placed to cut the fabric as you sew, and it *is possible* to cut your finger badly on this knife if you are not careful. BE CAREFUL. This machine also can go extremely, sometimes startlingly, fast.

Manual for Juki MO-2416[edit]

Brother SE400 Embroidery Machine[edit]

This machine is awesome, and can do many different stitches as well as CNC embroidery. It's usually stored on the wall of the sewing area. It looks like a home sewing machine but is as expensive as an industrial one and is many people's favorite machine. Embroidery Machine

130-Stitch Computerized Sewing and Quilting (Brother XR1355)[edit]

  • This machine is stored away in one of the sewing area cubbies.

Overview[edit]

  • This machine does 130 different stitches including lots of cool decorative flowers and patterns. It is also the only machine that can do a zig-zag stitch.


Manual for Brother XR1355[edit]


Singer 57817[edit]

Manual: https://www.noisebridge.net/wiki/File:Singer_57817.pdf

Singer CG-590-C[edit]

Manual: In Manuals Collection

White YM-43-8[edit]

Manual: Unknown

Singer 621-B[edit]

Manual: Unknown

White E-6354[edit]

Manual: Unknown

Brother Exedra E-40[edit]

Manual: https://www.noisebridge.net/wiki/File:Brother_E-40_Operation_Panel_Instruction_Manual.pdf

Kenmore Overlock 3/4D[edit]

Manual: In Manuals Collection, also https://www.noisebridge.net/wiki/File:Overlock_34d_38516631.compressed.pdf

Grand Reopening Poster[edit]

Sewing-Area-Poster.jpg