Sewing

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= Sewing Machines =
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== '''Wednesday Night at Noisebridge''' ==
  
== Latest News ==
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We will have an evening for DIY and sewing.  We will have supplies too.  So if you are interested in pattern making or knitting drop by!
There are a few sewing machines that are broken, and there are some that are not yet documented on this wiki.
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I wanted to post this:  I spent over the last few weeks hours trying to thread the machines and get them workingI purchased the needles and parts for the machinesHowever, they need to be sent to the shop and they might work.  So sad about it and frustrated.  I had really spent my own money and time to fix them because I have a lot of experience with these machines but they are delicate. They need to be cared for.  I wish there was more support at noisebridge because what a waste.
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We will have supplies to knit, needles and yarnAlso fabric for DIYCome by to make an apron as a first project!  Learn to use the machines too!
  
== Overview ==
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Sewing...
  
We have sewing machines at Noisebridge
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We have several sewing machines at Noisebridge.
  
== Tips ==
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Juki single needle industrial machine which is working well!  Fortunatly a person has dedicated time in care for this machineIt is a happy machine!
* For both industrial machines, please DO NOT unthread them unless you must, to fix a snarlInstead, to remove (say) your own thread, simply cut it close to the spool so that the next person can simply tie a knot with the next thread and pull it all the way through to the needle.
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* Needles for these machines are <b><span style="color:red">NOT</span></b> sold at most fabric stores.  Both kinds take the same type of needle, luckily.   
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Juki M2500, five spool chain stitch with three thread overlockThis is for woven fabricsYou can ask for assistance and a tutorial anytimeA very good machine!
** The closest place to get them is at Apparel City, on Howard between 11th & 12th.   
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** Tell them you want needles for a Juki DDL 5550 and they'll give you the right kindNeedles come in sizes; size 10, 12, 14, 16 are good for most purposes. 
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** The higher numbers are heavier gauge needles suitable for thicker fabrics.  Leather needles have a tiny blade at the tip; they aren't absolutely necessary for sewing on leather but they make it easier, especially for many layers.  Don't use a leather needle for other fabrics, though, it will cut the threads rather than squeezing between them, leaving holes that may start rips.
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* If you've never operated a sewing machine before, ask some people at Noisebridge such as Rachel, Rachel, Crutcher, Alex, Ariel.  Or do some research online.  You are very unlikely to damage the machines by simply messing around with them, but they are not completely self-explanatory and this page does assume a certain amount of prior general knowledge.  A good time to get help is Wednesday evenings, when [[SCoW]] meets.
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A walking foot.
  
=== Repairing a Sewing Machine ===
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A 4 spool Bernina serger for knits.   
* If a sewing machine is actually broken and non functional, as opposed to just you can't figure out how to make it work, please call Billy from Apparel City at 415-816-8645 (mobile) and schedule an appointment for him to come fix it.   
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** He usually charges around $80 per hour, plus parts. 
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** Email the [https://www.noisebridge.net/mailman/listinfo/sewing/|sewing list] and people will chip in to cover this.  If you can't manage this process, email the sewing list and find someone else who can.  Also, please put a note on the machine so people know what is going on with it.
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= Sewing Work Area =
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A Pfaff single needle wit IDT.
  
[[File:SewingMachineStack.jpg|Mystery Sewing Machines in a Stack|thumb]]
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A cast iron Westinghouse single needle.
  
= Hardware =
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A Brother home sewing machine.
  
== The industrial straight stitch Juki sewing machine DDL-5550-6 ==
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New for the month of August we are purchasing new thread.
  
=== Current Status of the Juki Sewing Machine ===
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=='''PFAFF''' ==
* Current Status: June 21, 2013 '''This machine is not currently working.''' ''The needle thread guides are being ordered and replaced. Also, the 'needle hook relationship' must be adjusted as described in the manual.''
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* [[Juki Maintenance Notes]] is an ongoing project to document the repair of the Juki DDL-5550-6.
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Pfaff 2022.  This machine is in working order.  I purchased it from the original owner recently.  This machine has IDT. If you have any questions on using the machine you can text or call me @ 415-850-3704.  My name is Maria and I live in the Mission, close to Noisebridge.  I would be happy to show you how it works!  My email is lbarbas@mail.ccsf.edu.  
  
=== Overview ===
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We are working hard to make the space a functional and beautiful space to work in.
* General fabrics, light-weight materials and medium weight materials.
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* '''Not for leather or book binding.''' Sorry, please use the right tool for the job.
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==== Official Manual for the Juki Sewing Machine DDL-5550-6 ====
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== 2015 Upgrade ==
PDF - Manual for the Juki Sewing Machine DDL-5550-6 -- https://noisebridge.net/wiki/File:Juki-ddl-5550-6.pdf
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As a spin off of the [[Maker Faire 2015|Noisebridge Booth for Maker Fair 2015 project]] the sewing area is going to be upgraded. Recently people have started maintaining and using the sewing area regularly again. The casework being built for Maker Faire 2015 will actually be designed for the sewing area so that after the show it may form the basis of the sewing area upgrade project.
  
==== Official Product Page for the Juki Sewing Machine DDL-5550-6 ====
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I have started collecting inspiration images that will be used to design the cabinets and new sewing area. This project is currently in the conceptual design phase, so if you have ideas please add them here. Not pictured are ideas for storage of donated materials and fabrics. I think there should also be some clothes rods for hanging up projects and materials. Maybe a trip to a fabric store(s) could help.
* http://www.juki.co.jp/industrial_e/products_e/apparel_e/1needle_e/ddl5550n7.html
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=== Tribal Knowledge Juki Sewing Machine ===
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'''Wish List'''
  
* The term 'industrial sewing machine' does not mean that it can poke a hole through anything. It means that it will work reliably on ordinary fabrics for years on end. Please do not sew heavy materials like leather on this machine.
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If you are interested in donating supplies to Noisebridge Sewing and DIY area here a little help...
* This machine does only straight stitches, no zig-zag (and no button holes).
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*  It can go very fast. It has an automatic thread cutter which is triggered by pushing down on the treadle with your heel, the opposite from how you push to have it make stitches.  There's a set of buttons on a widget atop the machine which control automated backstitching. If the top light is lit, the machine will do a backstitch when you start a seam. If the bottom light is lit, it will do a backstitch prior to cutting the thread, when you push back on the treadle.  Push the associated button to toggle the backstitching.  If this isn't clear yet, take some scrap fabric and play around with it until it makes sense.  There's scrap fabric in the wheeled canvas bins under the table by the window.
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* Bobbins are kept in the drawer under the left side of the machine's table. Also in that drawer are thread snips, replacement needles, and a little screwdriver to change the needle with. Note that the needle faces to the left, instead of to the front, as on most home sewing machines. If you replace a broken needle and put it in facing forwards, nothing will break but the machine will not form stitches.
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1. Professional Dress forms.
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2. Thread and Fabric for DIY.
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3. Silk Screens.
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4. New Pattern Paper.
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5. Professional Rulers for pattern making, french curves.
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6. Fabric Rotary Cutting Board.
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7. Oil for the JUKE machines.
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8. snips.
  
** To wind a bobbin, place the empty bobbin on the horizontal spindle to the right of the machine body (near the hand wheel).  Run a second thread through the upper holder, down to the tensioner at the back of the right side of the machine, in line with the spindle.  Thread the end through one of the holes in the bobbin side, from the inside to the outsidePress the lever to push the spindle down in contact with the sewing machine belt. While holding the thread end so it doesn't just whip out of the bobbin, press the treadle to run a couple of inches (if there were fabric in the machine).  Soon enough you can let go of the thread end as it will have been caught by windings on top of it.  If you are doing a lot of sewing, you can start a new bobbin before the current one is empty, and let it wind up as you sew.  When the bobbin is full, the lever will automatically snap out away from the belt and stop winding thread.
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note: some of us have allergies and asthma to mold and dust mites so we ask that the donated items be reasonably free from these allergensWe love donations!  
  
The top speed of the machine can be adjusted using one of the knobs on a box under the table, next to the motor.  It is the second knob down.  Right is faster, left is slower.  Feel free to adjust this -- use a scrap piece of fabric to determine a good top speed for your skill level and project needs.
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We also have a donation metal box at Noisebridge for cash donations.
  
  
Full manual: [[Media:Juki-ddl-5550-6.pdf]]
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== '''Knitting''' ==
  
[[Juki Maintenance Notes]] - Replacing the counter knife, needle bar, thread guides, etc.
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I am interested in knitting and have taught knittingI will have knitting supplies for everyoneI have been knitting for 25 years and have worked as a sample maker and consultantI have written patterns and someday would love to write a book on knittingI LOVE knitting and the practice of this has helped me in so many ways...come by to learn the practice of knitting as an art form or to relax! Again you can text me for free a knitting consult at Noisebridge and my phone so we can meet up there. Maria 415-850-3704.
 
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Recommended reading:
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[http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/3751/machine-needle-know-how About sewing machine needles]
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[http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/6847/perfect-machine-tension-every-time Understanding thread tension]
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[http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=25126&st=0 Sew heavy material]
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[http://www.wipo.int/pctdb/en/wo.jsp?WO=2002000984&IA=US2001041173&DISPLAY=STATUS What is a thread wiper?]
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== The industrial Juki serger ==
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=== Overview of the Juki Serger ===
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This machine does three kinds of stitches: a three-thread overlock, a chainstitch/overlock combination, or a four-thread overlock.  Normally it is set up to do the three-thread overlock, which only requires one needle, and doesn't use the rear thread trace or the second upper thread trace.   
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This machine has a knife placed to cut the fabric as you sew, and it *is possible* to cut your finger badly on this knife if you are not carefulThe location of the knife is pointed out in bright orange nail polish on the machine.  BE CAREFUL.  This machine also can go extremely, sometimes startlingly, fast.
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==== Manual for the Juki Serger ====
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* Full manua (pdf) for the Juki Sergerl: [[Media:JukiMO240424142416.pdf]]
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=== Thread Tension on the Juki Serger ===
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* Thread tension is controlled by the knobs on the right front of the machine.  Mostly they're adjusted properly, and for most uses of serging the tension is not critical.  If the serged stitching is really wonky, though, try messing with the tension dials - be sure the thread is caught properly between the tension plates, as it occasionally gets into the springs instead.
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* DO NOT UNTHREAD THE SERGER.  If you want different colored thread, simply cut off the current threads near the cone spools, and tie on a new threadThen either pull the threads through from the needle area (this can be difficult as they are somewhat knotted and you'll have to pull one out through the guts of the machine), or serge for a few inches on some scrap until the new color is pulled throughYou may or may not find that the knot catches on the hole in the needle. If it does, just cut it, rethread the needle, pull 6 or 8 inches of thread through, and keep serging for a bit.
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* If a thread breaks and forms a tangle, or breaks somewhere in the middle of the threading, you can find a map of how to rethread it on the inside of a little door that opens up just to the right of the knife. It opens downwards and lets you get at the levers and such of the thread traces.  Each thread trace is drawn in a different color, however note that the tension dials are of mismatched colors, so follow the guide not the tension dial coloring.
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* If you have to replace the needle, the notch in the needle faces backwards and it threads front to back.
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== The portable Necchi ==
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This was the only one of our functional sewing machines that can make buttonholes. Unfortunately, it is not working properly at this time.
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[http://www.instructables.com/id/Noisebridge-Sewing-Machine/ Instructions for the smaller Necchi sewing machine.]
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[[Category:Pages with a Noisebridge Tiny URL]]
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Latest revision as of 19:08, 1 August 2015

Contents

[edit] Wednesday Night at Noisebridge

We will have an evening for DIY and sewing. We will have supplies too. So if you are interested in pattern making or knitting drop by!

We will have supplies to knit, needles and yarn. Also fabric for DIY. Come by to make an apron as a first project! Learn to use the machines too!

Sewing...

We have several sewing machines at Noisebridge.

Juki single needle industrial machine which is working well! Fortunatly a person has dedicated time in care for this machine. It is a happy machine!

Juki M2500, five spool chain stitch with three thread overlock. This is for woven fabrics. You can ask for assistance and a tutorial anytime. A very good machine!

A walking foot.

A 4 spool Bernina serger for knits.

A Pfaff single needle wit IDT.

A cast iron Westinghouse single needle.

A Brother home sewing machine.

New for the month of August we are purchasing new thread.

[edit] PFAFF

Pfaff 2022. This machine is in working order. I purchased it from the original owner recently. This machine has IDT. If you have any questions on using the machine you can text or call me @ 415-850-3704. My name is Maria and I live in the Mission, close to Noisebridge. I would be happy to show you how it works! My email is lbarbas@mail.ccsf.edu.

We are working hard to make the space a functional and beautiful space to work in.

[edit] 2015 Upgrade

As a spin off of the Noisebridge Booth for Maker Fair 2015 project the sewing area is going to be upgraded. Recently people have started maintaining and using the sewing area regularly again. The casework being built for Maker Faire 2015 will actually be designed for the sewing area so that after the show it may form the basis of the sewing area upgrade project.

I have started collecting inspiration images that will be used to design the cabinets and new sewing area. This project is currently in the conceptual design phase, so if you have ideas please add them here. Not pictured are ideas for storage of donated materials and fabrics. I think there should also be some clothes rods for hanging up projects and materials. Maybe a trip to a fabric store(s) could help.

Wish List

If you are interested in donating supplies to Noisebridge Sewing and DIY area here a little help...

1. Professional Dress forms. 2. Thread and Fabric for DIY. 3. Silk Screens. 4. New Pattern Paper. 5. Professional Rulers for pattern making, french curves. 6. Fabric Rotary Cutting Board. 7. Oil for the JUKE machines. 8. snips.

note: some of us have allergies and asthma to mold and dust mites so we ask that the donated items be reasonably free from these allergens. We love donations!

We also have a donation metal box at Noisebridge for cash donations.


[edit] Knitting

I am interested in knitting and have taught knitting. I will have knitting supplies for everyone. I have been knitting for 25 years and have worked as a sample maker and consultant. I have written patterns and someday would love to write a book on knitting. I LOVE knitting and the practice of this has helped me in so many ways...come by to learn the practice of knitting as an art form or to relax! Again you can text me for free a knitting consult at Noisebridge and my phone so we can meet up there. Maria 415-850-3704.

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