User talk:Jarrod

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Revision as of 19:26, 28 February 2017 by Frank (talk | contribs) (Water heater)
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Jarrod, thanks for your hospitality Saturday.

I have a disclosure to make. I did not connect a protective ground wire to the two outlets I installed, because I did not find a protective ground coming from the panel board. The devices will be grounded as long as the conduit stays intact. Unfortunately, fittings tend to come loose over time.

I thought the conductors I used might have been too big, and the conduits and boxes might have been too small. Looking at the NEC today confirms my suspicions. I created a page of data from the NEC. As you can see, a 1/2" EMT conduit has room for only one 6 AWG THHN conductor. A 4" junction box does not have room for any 6 AWG conductors at all.

I like the larger than required conductors, because they stay cool, but they also need larger conduits and boxes.

I also found out today that wire nuts go up to 8 AWG maximum.

I remain available to assist with this or other Noisebridge projects. Frank (talk) 09:58, 21 February 2017 (UTC)

Water heater

Jarrod, I brought in a 14AWG cord-set for the water heater yesterday. I left it in the box with the other parts under the sink. I removed most of the teflon tape on the heater pipe threads, because the fittings being used have built in gaskets, and pipe thread tape should not be used. I also cleaned up most of the mess around the sink. I found a half full can of red paint without a lid on the sink. I put it in a bucket on the floor.

The water heater is a very old model, (Powerstar 45-552704), and I do not know if it still works. The manuals are not available for this model.

I checked the water heater in rest room. It seems to be the same model. I measured the voltage, which was 113 V. It seems to supply reasonably warm water at this lower than nameplate voltage.

I couldn't solve a couple of problems. The cold water valve on the wall does not turn off completely, and I was afraid to start work, without being able to turn off the water. These under-sink valves always seem to leak. We may have to shut off the water further upstream. I would replace this with a ball valve.

Another problem is that the faucet should be replace. The cold water handle is missing and the stem is stripped. We will need a tee so that both hot and cold water can be supplied.

I can get parts and install them, but I don't feel comfortable working without a way to shut the water off.

Let me know what you think. Frank (talk) 19:12, 28 February 2017 (UTC)