[Rack] Electric door strike working again. Use your Pin or key to get in.
jake at spaz.org
Mon Jul 15 03:04:24 UTC 2013
I still think the motor I installed might work if we give it 30 or 36
volts. It is rated at 24 volts but it's a high-quality motor. We should
try it. It might take a few amps of current though. So if we're going to
move away from the apartment original 24VAC 1A (or whatever it is) we
might as well find out if the motor I installed can actually handle it.
There is a geared motor from the ATM pile, which is meant for the cash
slot closer. I believe I can find enough capacitors to allow it to
reverse (it's going with the spring in the reverse, so it should be easy)
and I can make it work.. so that's one solution. And then we don't need
to come up with a new wiring arrangement for the thing.
remember the sewing professionals on the 2nd floor probably have a button
of their own with which they buzz people in. So it's nice to stick with
the original wiring for that reason.
I will probably be unavailable on tuesday but I will try to make progress
On Sun, 14 Jul 2013, Henner Zeller wrote:
> On 14 July 2013 18:23, Jake <jake at spaz.org> wrote:
> the reason the motor i chose was so flimsy was because i wanted
> to make sure it was easy enough to turn when off, so that it
> would not hold the latch open.
> I know, but from the feel of it (my unscientific manual gauging determined
> about 1lb pull :)), we can't get around of actually having a geared motor
> I will probably replace it with a different motor, and a large
> capacitor and relay, so that when it is energized from the
> intercom it will open the lock (while charging the capacitor).
> ... so this solution sounds like the right one. We need a geared motor - and
> if we can't change the AC supply, then we need to do the capacitor thing.
> Scotty found a motor that looks promising; Since I was about to leave, I
> took it home to play with it a bit and add an end-switch. Will bring it on
> Tuesday to the meeting.
> when power from the intercom stops, the relay will release and
> drain the capacitor into the motor in the other direction, so
> the motor will undo.
> One question: do we actually have to stick to the 12V AC scheme ? What is
> preventing us to ignore the AC supply and use 'our' power on the line; a
> couple of volts DC to open and reverse current to close ?
> I assume, we need to make it work with the other tenants (do we ?), but that
> shouldn't be to big of a deal.
> If this is not working, and the capacitor solution might not work out (too
> big capacitor needed ?) we could have a little power supply downstairs that
> can take care of things.
> Hope you're there on Tuesday, so that we can hack on it. Scotty attempts to
> make it as well (he is the guy who recently added tests to
> On Sun, 14 Jul 2013, Henner Zeller wrote:
> tl;dr : the electric door strike is replaced, so the
> door is secured again.
> Don't jam the door in as you might got used to in
> the last couple of days.
> We don't want to break the new lock :) If someone
> has access to a working
> printer and stickers, maybe add a sticker to the
> lock so that people know
> and don't slam it.
> Longer version: I went to Discount Builders and got
> a new electric door
> strike. It is similarly cheap and flimsy as the one
> we already had, so we
> should continue on the solution Jake already
> started, which looks long term
> I looked at Jake's solution today, and the motor is
> not strong enough for
> what it should do. So I got the new strike so that
> we have a working door in
> the meantime. I met Scotty in the hallway and we
> chatted about some ideas to
> continue improving the gate situation.
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