3D Printing

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Capp Printer Room.jpg
You are in the Printshop room of Noisebridge. It is sound insulated a bit from the rest of Noisebridge by its walls and 2 windowed doors, one leading out towards the Entrance and one leading in to the Hackitorium.

You see myriad 3D printers and large format 2D printers as well.

EXITS: Front, Print Shop, 2D Paper Printer, Hackitorium

> Blinkingcursor.gif

The 3D printing station is one of Noisebridge's Fabrication Resources.

  • CHANNELS: We have a #3dprinting channel on Slack.
  • RESOURCES: We have a number of 3D printers documented below which are available for use.
  • EVENTS: We used to have weekly Replicator Wednesday. Want to restart it? Volunteer to make them happen again!
  • NOTES: When logging problems or maintenance, edit so the date descends!
  • MAINTAINERS: rugyoga, Max
RECRUITING! Maintainer volunteers wanted, consider volunteering to become a maintainer. (Edit)

PRINTERS WE HAVE[edit | edit source]

Capp Printer Room.jpg

Printers and Statuses[edit | edit source]

Number Name Type Status
P1 Agent Smith #Creality Ender 3 Working
P2 Neo #Creality Ender 3 Working
P3 Harold #Creality CR-10S Not Working
P4 Trinity #Creality Ender 3 Working
P5 Cricket #Monoprice MP Select Mini Working
P6 Peter #Monoprice MP Select Mini Working
P7 Demosthenes #Creality CR-10 Mini Working
P8 Locke #Creality CR-10 Not Working
P9 Bertha #Hypercube Unknown
P10 Resin #Anycubic Photon Mono X New

Printer Details and Maintenance Log[edit | edit source]

P1 Agent Smith[edit | edit source]

  • Number: P1
  • Name: Agent Smith
  • Type: #Creality Ender 3
  • Location: Left shelving unit, middle shelf, right side
  • Status: Working
Date User Description
2023/02/12 @rugyoga Installed PEI build plate
2023/02/12 @rugyoga Installed Biqu H2 extruder

P2 Neo[edit | edit source]

  • Number: P2
  • Name: Neo
  • Type: #Creality Ender 3
  • Location: left shelving unit, bottom shelf, left side
  • Status: Working
Date User Description
2023/02/12 @rugyoga Installed Biqu H2 extruder
2022/08/28 @rugyoga Turned on Linear Advance and calibrated PLA (k factor: 0.06).
2022/08/28 @rugyoga Upgraded Marlin firmware to
2022/08/21 @rugyoga Ran extruder estep calibration. Result: 140.5
2022/08/14 @rugyoga Successfully printed a 20 mm calibration cube.
2022/08/14 @rugyoga Set extruder esteps to 130 per MicroSwiss doc.
2022/08/14 @rugyoga Upgraded motherboard to 32 bit BTT SKR v2. (https://www.amzn.com/B0882QGFZR)
2022/08/14 @rugyoga Replaced worn wiring harness.
2022/08/10 @rugyoga Upgraded Heater to 50W. (https://www.amzn.com/B07SYZ3LGB)
2022/08/10 @rugyoga Upgraded Thermistor to 300c capable EPCOS. (https://www.amzn.com/B08R3J6GJ3)
2022/08/10 @rugyoga Added MicroSwiss DirectDrive extruder. (https://www.amzn.com/B08CGN18KJ)
2022/08/10 @rugyoga Added PEI build plate (https://www.amzn.com/B082PFL8TX)
2022/08/10 @rugyoga Took home to perform upgrades.
2022/01/16 @GiftOfGabe Spool broke while taking it off print bed. Took it home to glue it.
2022/01/15 @GiftOfGabe Leveled Bed

P5 Cricket[edit | edit source]

Date User Description
2022/01/23 @GiftOfGabe Added print spool and moved to lower shelf.
2022/01/14 ? Added label saying it works well.

P6 Peter[edit | edit source]

Date User Description
2022/01/16 @GiftOfGabe Fixed extruder tube to hot end connection.
2022/01/16 @GiftOfGabe Fixed connection between extruder and tube. (Note it will not extrude if connector is too tight. Tighten nut instead.
2022/01/16 @GiftOfGabe Added tape to print bed.
2022/01/16 @GiftOfGabe Printed hotend fan clamp. It did not stick to the bed on the thin sides.
2022/01/15 @GiftOfGabe Attempted Fix, Leveled Bed

P7 Demosthenes[edit | edit source]

  • Number: P7
  • Name: Demosthenes
  • Type: #Creality CR-10 Mini
  • Location: On very top of left shelving unit
  • Status: Working
Date User Description
2022/01/23 @GiftOfGabe Leveled bed with paper.
2022/01/14 ? Added label saying it works well.

P10 Anycubic[edit | edit source]

  • Number: P10
  • Name: Anycubic
  • Type: #Photon Mono X Resin
  • Location: Upstairs by the mural
  • Status: New (Leveled and working)
Date User Description Resin Exposure Time Curing Time
2022/2/28 Gabriel RERF: 0.8 minor failures, 1.2-1.6 high detail Basic White Any^3 0.8-3s

P3 Harold[edit | edit source]

  • Number: P3
  • Name: Harold
  • Type: Creality CR-10S
  • Location: left shelving unit, bottom shelf, right side
  • Status: hotend heat sink is striped and cannot connect to feeder tube, SD Card reader will not lock in but it can still cards if most the way in.
Date User Description
2022/01/23 @GiftOfGabe Attempted fix and print. Extruder tube came out of heatsink. It appears to be striped. Looked for other part but may need new hot end.

P4 Trinity[edit | edit source]

  • Number: P4
  • Name: Trinity
  • Type: Creality Ender 3
  • Location: left shelving unit, middle shelf, left side
  • Status: Being upgraded
Date User Description
2022/8/27 @rugyoga Replaced its thermistor with 450c capable (https://www.amzn.com/B0888NJ63W)

Marlin changes: configuration_adv.h: "#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 66"


{OV(1022), 23},
{OV(1023), 22},
{OV(1024), 19}};
2022/8/27 @rugyoga Upgraded its hot end with Creality Spider all metal hotend. (https://www.amzn.com/B09QKT5F2B)
2022/8/27 @rugyoga Upgraded its screen with an SKR TFT35 touch screen. (https://www.amzn.com/B08182XHZZ)
2022/8/27 @rugyoga Upgraded its motherboard with an SKR Mini v2 32 bit motherboard. (https://www.amzn.com/B0882QGFZR)
2022/7/26 @rugyoga Replaced its missing build plate with a PEI sheet on a steel plate. (https://www.amzn.com/B07GSJSDWR)
2022/01/23 @GiftOfGabe Moved paper printer and repositioned. Noticed there is no build plate on steel print bed. Didn't test.

P8 Locke[edit | edit source]

  • Number: P8
  • Name: Locke
  • Type: Creality CR-10 Mini3?
  • Location: on desk next to CNC machine
  • Status: Label says "Undergoing maintenance"
Date User Description
2022/01/?? Label says "Undergoing maintenance"

Unknown Status[edit | edit source]

P9 Bertha[edit | edit source]

  • Number: P9
  • Name: Bertha
  • Type: Hypercube?
  • Location: right shelving unit, top shelf, left side
  • Status: Unknown... needs testing...
Date User Description
2022/01/23 @GiftOfGabe Needs research

Lost (Where are these printers?)[edit | edit source]

Printer Types[edit | edit source]

Creality Ender 3[edit | edit source]

  • Resources:
 * Setup Tutorial: https://www.youtu.be/dQ0q9zLygTY
 * Bed Leveling: https://youtu.be/dQ0q9zLygTY?t=1370
 * Slicing in Cura: https://youtu.be/dQ0q9zLygTY?t=1864
 * Setup and Maintenance (some general info too): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T-Z3GmM20JM

Monoprice MP Select Mini[edit | edit source]

Creality CR-10[edit | edit source]

Filaments[edit | edit source]

There are many colors of filament spools to use for printing projects. Take note of which plastic type your filament is and choose settings appropriately. Using PLA is strongly recommended in almost all cases. If the filament is brittle, then it has gone bad(just needs to be dried out?). Sealed plastic bags should be used to preserve the lifespan of filament by keeping moisture, oxygen, and dust away.

  • TODO: Print Labels with QR Codes and start labeling Filaments
Filament Details
Number Type Color Last Used Brand Date Obtained Nozzle Temp Bed Temp
F1 PLA Yellow 2022/01/23

PRINTING GUIDE[edit | edit source]

  1. Apply fresh blue masking tape to the bed if needed.
  2. Select a filament for usage.
  3. If necessary, remove whatever filament is currently spooled into the printer. Do this by heating the printer up to 260C, then quickly withdrawing the filament back out of the print head.
  4. Place your desired filament onto the spool axle, and feed the filament into the print head while heated, until filament extrudes from the nozzle cleanly in the color you inserted.
  5. Configure the printer for the diameter of filament inserted. Diameter is typically 1.75mm or 2.85mm. This value will be printed on the spool.
  6. Remove the extruded filament from the nozzle.
  7. Always level the bed before a print.
    1. Use the printer's controller to move the print head home (X0 Y0 Z0), and disable the steppers so that you can move it freely laterally.
    2. Place a piece of paper between the nozzel and the bed. For each corner, use the adjustments under the bed to change the level until there is a small bit of resistance on the paper between the nozzle and the bed. Video tutorial
  8. Configure your gcode in your slicing program of choice (Cura is easy and popular).
    1. Specify the diameter of your print nozzle.
    2. Specify the nozzle printing temperature (typically between 190C and 230C). This value will be printed as a range on the spool, use the higher end of the range.
  9. Slice your model, and copy the file to a MicroSD card. Each printer should have an SD card in it.
  10. Insert the SD card into the printer, and use the controller to select and print your gcode file.
  11. Once the nozzle and the bed are up to temperature, the print will begin. Monitor as the first layer goes down. If the nozzle is scraping or the filament is being pressed into a very thin layer, the bed is too high. If the filament is not sticking to the bed cleanly, the bed is too low. Either way, cancel the print and re-level the bed, then restart.
  12. If you expect your print to take a particularly long time, you may wish to leave a sticky note on the printer with the date/time you started it so that other makers know your completed print hasn't been abandoned.

Troubleshooting[edit | edit source]

  • If the lines of filament coming out of the nozzle are inconsistent, the nozzle may be partially clogged. Insert a very thin wire into the nozzle to clear it.
  • If you cannot insert filament into the head, or you aren't able to get filament to extrude, it may be clogged or blocked. Disassemble the print head and use a thin tool such as a hex key to clear the blockage from both ends. This might need to be done with the print head hot, so use caution.
  • If the nozzle temperature is fluctuating without stabilizing at the goal temperature, keeping the print from starting, you may need to do a PID Tuning
  • Resources:
 * Print a Benchy Boat: 
   * http://www.3dbenchy.com/features/
   * https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:763622
   * https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t_7EMnQ6Rlc
 * https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t_7EMnQ6Rlc


Node: the hackstation has not yet been restored fully since the move. You are invited to contribute to that effort.

The 3D printing printing hackstation is a kiosk with the following items necessary for 3D printing:

  • 3D printer
  • Pegboard
    • Blue masking tape to coat the build platform.
    • Wedge to scrape builds off of the tape.
      • Autobody chisel works best.
    • Ruler
    • Duster spray can to clean out parts
    • Files to file down parts
    • Scraps box for recycling of wasted parts.
    • Showcase box for showing cool things to inspire people with.
    • Cleaning Reminder Sign: (Please help keep NOISEBRIDGE tidy by keeping this area clean.)
  • Overhead Shelf
    • Filament spools rack
  • 3D Printer tools box
    • elmers glue
    • Kapton tape
    • box cutter
    • usb cables of various ends (micro, b)
    • screw driver
    • plastic scraper
    • allen keys


Wish list:

  • Sandpaper
  • working 3d printers
  • Restored hackstation

PROJECT IDEAS[edit | edit source]

  • Improved lighting on printer shelves
  • OctoPis with cameras connected to all printers
  • Giant 3d-printer
- canabalizing 2 makerbot replicators

Would you like to help organize a new weekly 3D printing workshop?[edit | edit source]

If you are interested in organizing a new regular 3D printing meetup or reviving Replicator Wednesdays, do it!

  • Let User:Lxpk know and he will assist with updating the wiki and organizing your event or project.

Past 3D Printing Things[edit | edit source]