Creality Ender-3 Pro

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Creality Ender-3 Pro[edit]

Creality Ender-3 Pro.jpg

BROKEN as of 2020-04-14. Needs a new motherboard.

If you use Slic3r to slice your models (convert them into G-code to be fed to the printer), use this printer profile.

You can print PLA directly onto the black surface with the “Ender” logo, then free your print a couple minutes later using the putty knife.

OctoPrint[edit]

For the sake of a smoother printing experience for everyone, use OctoPrint to run your print jobs instead of shuffling microSD cards around.

From within the space, the Ender-3 can be accessed from the Noisebridge Wi-Fi network at http://octopiender.local.

Maintenance[edit]

Both Creality printers have a hard power switch governing the actual printer bits. It's easy for someone to turn this off by mistake, leaving OctoPrint unable to control the printer (the printer will reset and OctoPrint will lose connection when OctoPrint tries to set the bed temperature), so we've covered their hard power switches with molly-guards.

The cover over the Ender-3's hard power switch is this model, printed on the Ender-3 itself and held in place with a length of tape with “DO NOT HACK” written on it. If someone un-excellently disappears the cover, print another copy of that model to replace it.

The hardware topology of the Ender-3 set-up is as follows:

  • Power strip
    • Ender-3 Pro printer (power)
    • Raspberry Pi
      • Ender-3 Pro printer (black USB cable)

TODO: The Ender-3's OctoPrint host is a Raspberry Pi 4, currently in an improvised case fashioned from its original box. We should print a real case for it, like the other Pi has.

TODO: This Pi doesn't have a camera for monitoring prints. We should fix that. It will need very clear labeling that it is ONLY for monitoring prints, should only ever be pointed at the print bed, does not have a microphone, and is not (and should never be) used to spy on people in the space.