Wood Shop
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RECRUITING! Maintainer volunteers wanted, consider volunteering to become a maintainer. | E |
You are standing in the Dirty Shop at Noisebridge with many wooden benches and power tools for cutting and drilling wood and other hard materials.
You see many power tools and a hand tools workbench. EXITS: Back hall, Hackitorium, Flaschentaschen, Lockers, SparkleForge. |
Noisebridge's dirty shop contains various wood/metal/plastic cutting tools such as drills, saws, CNC mills and more. The shop is located at the back of the ground floor. at 272. |
How to be excellent in the shop[edit | edit source]
- Read this wiki page. If you have any questions, reach out to a maintainer (listed above)
- If you do not how to use a tool, don't use it! We have people who can teach you how to use it appropriately.
- Always leave the shop cleaner than you found it. In the rare circumstance you have an in-progress project that cannot be moved out of the way for others to hack on their projects, reach out to the wood guild and let them know why your project is not cleaned up, and when it will be resolved.
- Labels, labels labels! Label your in-progress projects with big and clear text.
- Include the words "Do Not Hack"
- Add your name or handle
- Include the date you left the project or material
- No food or drinks in the Woodshop. The Patio is a good place to enjoy refreshments.
- If you notice something is wrong with a tool, and you don't know how to fix, notify the community either online or by leaving a note
- Hack on awesome wood projects and show it off to the community!
- It is not excellent to use power sanders inside. If you cannot connect the sander via a dust collection port, you should bring the sander and your project outside with the roll-up door closed. (See Meeting Notes 2023 07 18#Discussion Item 2 for discussion on this topic)
Tools[edit | edit source]
- Table Saw (Sawstop)
- Table Router (Porter Cable 6902)
- Miter_saw (Ryobi TSS103T)
- Lathe (7"x12" Cummins)
- Milling Machines
- Manual Mill (JET JET-15 Mill / Drill)
- CNC Mill (MaxNC 10)
- Quick Circuit 5000
- Othermill
- CNC Mill (Roland MDX-40a)
- Bandsaw (Sears 10" 1/3 HP)
- Radial saw (Ryobi 8 1/4" RA-200)
- Bench grinder (Ryobi 6")
- Disk sander (Delta 31-120 12")
- Drill press (Wen 4214T or similar)
- Air compressor (2.5SCFM @ 90psi, 6gal)
- Assorted hand tools
- Hacksaws
- Drill
- Heat gun
- Assorted screws, bolts, etc
- Laminator
- Jointer (DELTA 6" NJ 227)
- Planer (Craftsman 12 1/2" 351.217581)
Other Noisebridge Tools[edit | edit source]
Safety[edit | edit source]
A major component of safety is organization and proper maintenance. Organization means a clear and uncluttered workspace as well as predictable object locations. Clutter gets in the way of completing a task, impeding free movement or creating unsteady surfaces on bench tops. Unexpected objects underfoot can cause slips, leading to falls or worse if operating machinery at the time.
Personal Protective Equipment[edit | edit source]
There's a lot of Personal Protective Equipment you can wear in a shop to keep you safe, but a good baseline is to look out for your Eyes, Ears, and Lungs. The shop has safety goggles, masks, and ear protection, and you are also encouraged to bring your own. Look out for others too. If you see someone in the shop who's not wearing ear protection, and you will be making a lot of noise, it is excellent to give them a heads up. You cannot force them to protect themselves, but you should always give them the opportunity. See a list of basic PPE advice here.
Cleaning Up[edit | edit source]
Inspecting and cleaning your workspace is good practice, and keeping the shop free of clutter is a service to yourself and fellow members of Noisebridge. Projects are finished when tools are cleaned and put away where they were found and scrap cleared away.
Be excellent to each other by keeping the shop clutter free both when you start your project, and as the final step to any project. Don't leave objects on the bench because someone else might use it. t is far safer to everyone if that object is placed in a proper location.
Do not leave hot items plugged in unless they are secure and safe from tipping. Glue gun stands tip easily, and the tip is hot enough to melt through other cords. These tools should not be left unattended to cool down unless properly secured.
Learning New Tools[edit | edit source]
Shop tools can be very dangerous when used incorrectly. You should NEVER use a tool you are unfamiliar with. Reach out to someone who knows what they are doing and ask them to show you what to do. Not only can you hurt yourself when misusing a tool, but you can also hurt others and damage the equipment.
Working With Metal[edit | edit source]
A note regarding cutting metal in stationary tools:
The shavings that come off the metal piece being cut are HOT!
In a stationary tool that has been used on wood, there is typically a nice big thick bed of sawdust inside the tool. When the metal shavings fall into this bed of sawdust, an awesome smoldery fire can build up sight unseen inside of the tool. Yay!
When possible it is best to have two separate dedicated tools... and/or if one is going to be transfered over into metal service the inside should be vacuumed out first, and/or the operator should check inside the machine when they are done.
Sawdust[edit | edit source]
Sawdust is a major concern in wood shops. Due to the particle size and near perfect aeration when spread out, it can also ignite into a fast burn. While the risk is small, the shop is also full of solvents, paints, and other flammables which will exacerbate any issue. For more information, please consult. OSHA's guidelines.
Sawdust is also a carcinogen, so when creating dust, you should wear a mask, as well as warn others in the shop that things will get dusty. Remember, it is best to collect dust at the source, rather than dealing with cleanup after. If a power tool has a connection for a dust collector, make that connection and turn on the collector! This helps keep the air clean for those in the shop and elsewhere in the space.
Cleaning[edit | edit source]
The shop needs to be clear of clutter on the tables, benches, tools, and floor. The Shop, otherwise known as the Dirty Shop, will never be free from saw dust, but steps should be taken to mitigate when possible. The large tools like the circular saw have Instructions on or near them for hooking up the Shop Vac. It's a simple step to take to help cut down on saw-dust.
The Shop Vac should be emptied when used. If everyone is excellent to each other, it will be empty before you use it. However, it is good to check just in case, to prevent clogging or blow-back. Emptying it can be difficult, but it is excellent to make a best effort, perhaps making a new friend by asking for help.
The Shop garbage can get very full of sharp pokey things. There are large contractor bags under the tables in the kitchen area (white folded rectangles) to either empty out the trash, or perhaps start a new one for Shop Vac dumping.
It is not ideal to store unfinished projects on tables or benches. If this is the case, please add a "Do Not Hack" sign with today's date, and projected finish date/sign expiration date. Projects should never be left on machines, that is most not excellent.
Perishable items should not be thrown away in shop garbage. It is not taken out often, and making the shop smell like rotten yoghurt is a super bummer.
Emptying the Dust Collector[edit | edit source]
Sawdust can become a fire hazard if it is allowed to build up in and around shop equipment. In order to prevent this, it is important to empty the dust collector before it reaches the red fill line. As the dust collector fills its ability to ventilate decreases and dust will accumulate both in the table saw and the exhaust tubes.
Emptying the dust collector is easiest with a partner. Grab someone else in the woodshop for help.
To empty the dust collector, unclasp the metal clamps on the side and dump the sawdust into a large trash bag and take to the trash bin outside. This waste is not compostable, because much of the wood at the shop is treated with chemicals, or plywood, which is made with synthetic glues.
There is also a fine dust collection bag at the rear end of the machine. To empty this, rotate the top lever, which will knock off any dust stuck to the filter. Then, after the dust settles in the bag, remove the bag and empty. Note: Do not throw away the bag! Transfer the dust to a garbage bag and dispose. We don't have extras readily available, so reattach this when empty
TODO[edit | edit source]
- Wall buildout at 272
- Maintenance Schedules
- General Inventory
Plans for Sound and Dust Isolation 2023[edit | edit source]
We have been through several discussions of how to isolate the noise and dust of the wood shop safely, affordably, and in keeping with SF fire and electrical/building codes. But sometimes that context gets lost. So let's use this space to outline a plan and be able to refer to it!
Proposal[edit | edit source]
Some discussion from April 2023 captured below.
JD's thoughts[edit | edit source]
What has been discussed is keeping the rear access to the fire escape with 44” clear hallway (no lockers) and adding an additional sprinkler for said hallway. 2 walls can then be built to the ceiling containing the woodshop and 4 of the existing sprinklers. If we do not install electrical in the new walls, the only permit required would be for the additional sprinkler, which the plumber would deal with.
Before anyone suggests it, we can’t just wall off the back of the space. The fire exit for the rest of the hackatorium cannot be through another room.
Non-bearing, non-system carrying, stud walls are considered partitions and do not require a permit. It isn’t until you start adding electrical and plumbing that it needs to be inspected.
It is my recommendation that we have a plumber install the required sprinkler to cover the fire exit before we install the wall. One less thing for the plumbing inspector to worry about.
Liz's thoughts[edit | edit source]
I want us to be sure that we can do it within city code either with or without pulling permits/ licensed contractor. Our agreement with the landlord is that we can modify the inside as long as it is permitted and to code. So, we need to make absolutely sure we are doing exactly that!
I also like the idea of pairing up with a licensed electrician who will work with us in a way that is cheap as possible (ie we set up conduit etc and they just finalize it all for inspection).
We can try working with David from Safer DIY Spaces (https://saferdiyspaces.org/) as he has a lot of expertise and also has contractors who will work well with our space.
HISTORICAL SNIPPETS[edit | edit source]
Notes that are fun historical reminders of past milestones go here.
2009[edit | edit source]
The buildout is a work in progress as of 9/25/09. fixme with updates, photos.